Fashion Style & Popular Culture最新文献_第10页

Notes on Alla Turca camp: Bülent Ersoy and her ‘diva’ style 关于Alla Turca营地的注释:ballent Ersoy和她的“天后”风格

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Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2022-05-17 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00129_1

Nilay Ulusoy, Berceste Gülçin Özdemir

{"title":"Notes on Alla Turca camp: Bülent Ersoy and her ‘diva’ style","authors":"Nilay Ulusoy, Berceste Gülçin Özdemir","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00129_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00129_1","url":null,"abstract":"Bülent Ersoy (1952–present) is known as the first transgender star of Turkish music. Since the 1970s, she has been a famous singer with the help of her extraordinary powerful voice and impressive performances, as well as drawing public attention to her queer identity. Occasionally, she clashed with Turkish authorities mostly due to her insisting on performing on stage wearing women’s clothing before her gender affirmation surgery that took place in 1981. She left Turkey in 1981 when Turkish authorities banned transgender performers on the stage. However, even after the surgery, she could not get an official female identity card in Turkey for seven years and was banned from performing on stage. When she returned to Turkey and started singing again in 1988, she described those years and her struggle to be known as a ‘woman’ in her hit songs through metaphorical ways. In addition to music, she also reached a large television audience through her costumes and performances as a jury member in various reality shows broadcasted on Turkish television, especially in the 2000s. In this article, we will discuss the usage of ‘camp’ as a strategy for reading Bülent Ersoy’s artistic performances, which are informed, at least partially, by the exaggeration of social roles, sometimes reaching to a point of absurdity. We use Sontag’s ‘Notes on “Camp”’ as a lens through which to explore how Bülent Ersoy negotiates the limiting camp binaries of artifice/authenticity, hypersexuality/monogamy and monstrous/virtuous in order to contribute to underexplored areas in camp scholarship.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":"58 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-05-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84770441","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Galliano: Spectacular Fashion, Kerry Taylor (ed.) (2020) 加利亚诺:壮观的时尚，凯丽·泰勒(编)(2020)

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Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00112_5

Kendel R. Bolton

引用次数: 0

COVID-19 and small retail business: What we can learn 2019冠状病毒病与小型零售企业:我们能学到什么

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Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00116_7

Laura Cocchia

{"title":"COVID-19 and small retail business: What we can learn","authors":"Laura Cocchia","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00116_7","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00116_7","url":null,"abstract":"The novel coronavirus outbreak changed the world in 2020 as it rapidly spread from country to country, infecting millions of people across the globe. In response, United States policy-makers and public health officials mandated non-essential businesses to temporarily close to help curb\u0000 the transmission of the disease. Significant economic strain ensued causing many Americans to lose their jobs and entire industries to suffer. With stores shuttered and fiscal uncertainty impeding consumer spending, retail has been one of the hardest-hit industries. Small businesses in particular\u0000 have been forced to pivot and grapple with the rippling effects of the pandemic. This journal article features an interview with Nicole Carter, Adjunct Instructor at Drexel University’s Westphal College of Media Arts and Design, about her perspective on how the pandemic is impacting\u0000 retail and small business. In addition to her work with Drexel, Nicole oversees operations at Benjamin Lovell Shoes, a Pennsylvania and New-Jersey-based shoe retailer, and shares her experience on how the business has adapted since the onset of the pandemic. The goal of this article is to\u0000 help readers gain a deeper understanding of the current impact that COVID-19 has on small retail businesses, and how that will continue to shape the future of the industry as a whole.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":"6 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"79213459","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 2

Beyond pretty: The evocative and respective work of Michael-Birch Pierce seen through a collaboration with Levi Strauss 超越美丽:迈克尔·伯奇·皮尔斯与李维·施特劳斯合作的作品令人回味

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Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00115_7

Deidra W. Arrington

引用次数: 1

A content analysis of muscularity research, part 2: Theories used, measurement and publication outlets 肌肉量研究的内容分析，第二部分:运用的理论、测量方法和发表途径

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Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00110_1

K. Johnson, S. Lennon

{"title":"A content analysis of muscularity research, part 2: Theories used, measurement and publication outlets","authors":"K. Johnson, S. Lennon","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00110_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00110_1","url":null,"abstract":"The purpose of this research was to provide a comprehensive descriptive content analysis of empirical research focused on muscularity and published in refereed journals in 2000 through 2019. This is the second part of a two-part series in which the research aims were to characterize the research on muscularity with respect to the theories employed, the measures of muscularity utilized, the extent to which researchers reported reliability and validity for measures of muscularity used, and to report on the journals that publish this type of research and the disciplines these journals represent. We present an overview of relevant theories and how they can be applied to understanding muscularity. This presentation is followed by a discussion of measurements of muscularity. To locate studies multiple available databases were searched resulting in a sample of 176 empirical articles which collectively contained 203 studies. Most studies did not report using theoretical guidance. Of those researchers that did report theories, most used theories from the body image literature; the tripartite model was used most frequently. In 181 studies at least one measure of muscularity was used. The most frequently employed measure was the drive for muscularity scale. A plurality of studies reported their own assessment of reliability as well as others’ reliabilities for the same measure. Most studies did not report validity for muscularity measures employed. Articles analysed came from a wide variety of journals primarily representing two major fields of inquiry: psychology and interdisciplinary.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":"54 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"90667556","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Implementation of Chinese-styled branding in global fashion: ‘Guochao’ as a rising cultural identity 中国风格品牌在全球时尚中的实施:“国潮”作为一种崛起的文化认同

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Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00111_1

Zhe Wang

{"title":"Implementation of Chinese-styled branding in global fashion: ‘Guochao’ as a rising cultural identity","authors":"Zhe Wang","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00111_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00111_1","url":null,"abstract":"Culture-specific Chinese-styled branding as a rising trend in cultural and branding studies has provided new discourse for the discussion on the national identity of Chineseness or chinoiserie that has long existed, with further reflections on the Chinese fashion brand design known\u0000 as ‘Guochao’, which has become an increasingly ubiquitous new conceptual identity in the past five years. Chinese fashion brands are changing their peripheral cultural status and impacting global fashion, transforming the global recognition of Chinese national identity and style\u0000 in the field of fashion. This article investigates this emerging phenomenon in the global fashion system and theorizes ‘Guochao’ as a rising cultural identity that reconfigures and readdresses the national identity in Chinese fashion branding practices in terms of its connotations\u0000 and industry applications. It shows that the ‘Guochao’ identity can be separated into two sub-connotations: one that addresses the connotations of ‘Guo’ that symbolize, rejuvenate and rematerialize Chinese historical and material culture, and one that emphasizes the\u0000 ‘Chao’ discourse, featuring subtle Chinese symbolism that incorporates strong western street style and further blurs the boundaries in the West‐East aesthetic binary system. Through case studies on the brand designs and campaigns of two Chinese designer brands that are paradigmatic\u0000 of the ‘Guo’ identity, Angel Chen and MUKZIN, and two classic Chinese sportswear brands that are representatives of the ‘Chao’ identity, Li-Ning and Warrior Shanghai, the theoretical connotations of ‘Guochao’ as a rising cultural identity in Chinese-styled\u0000 branding are discussed. This article theorizes ‘Guochao’ as a recreated representative cultural identity in global fashion that challenges the world’s understanding of chinoiserie in the field of fashion and further showcases the popularization of Chinese-styled branding\u0000 in Chinese fashion.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":"46 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"73158122","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Dandy Style: 250 Years of British Men’s Fashion, Shaun Cole and Miles Lambert (2021) 《丹迪风格:英国男装250年》，肖恩·科尔和迈尔斯·兰伯特著(2021年)

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Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00113_5

Jessica Strübel

引用次数: 0

Welcome, 2022: A time to celebrate? 欢迎，2022年:一个值得庆祝的时刻?

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Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00120_2

Joseph H. Hancock

引用次数: 0

Navigating maternity fashion: Reflections of US consumer attitudes during pregnancy 引领孕妇时尚:反映美国消费者对怀孕的态度

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Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00108_1

Kendra Lapolla, Chanjuan Chen

引用次数: 1

The influence of culture, evolving symbolisms and globalization on defining colour forecasting in India 文化、不断演变的象征和全球化对印度色彩预测的影响

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Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00107_1

Siddhali Doshi

{"title":"The influence of culture, evolving symbolisms and globalization on defining colour forecasting in India","authors":"Siddhali Doshi","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00107_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00107_1","url":null,"abstract":"Colours and cultures have the spirit of time. Yet, with shifts in societies, the meaning of colour has evolved. Our colour experiences today are widely dominated by technology and digital means. What once symbolized Shringar rasa, our agrarian heritage and depicted royalty, today,\u0000 has tremendous renewed meanings from sustainability, vegetarianism, to being the colour of WhatsApp and Spotify, while also signifying trending global idioms like ‘don’t be green with envy’. With the fast-paced globalization influencing us, we are led towards adopting western\u0000 symbolisms. Then there are some symbolisms that have simply evolved with time as superstition fades and new beliefs emerge. This article dives into the nine rasas and traces the evolution of colour symbolism through our scriptures, arts and the cultural practices to understand the deeper\u0000 roots of colour symbolisms and their associations in our cultures, beliefs and traditions. The article will then explore the perceptions of colour in modern culture and trace its roots from our history, technological developments and present perspectives. This collection of data will help\u0000 to understand the psychological and behaviour factors that contribute to the acceptance and association of colour today, opening a window to project new colour directions for the future.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":"15 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"89013514","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1