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incels://cheeks/jaws: On fragile masculinity, fatal body ideals, homophobic homoeroticism and National Socialist aesthetics revisited 细胞://脸颊/下巴:对脆弱的男子气概，致命的身体理想，同性恋恐惧症和国家社会主义美学的重新审视
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2022-07-20 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00142_1
Sarah Held
{"title":"incels://cheeks/jaws: On fragile masculinity, fatal body ideals, homophobic homoeroticism and National Socialist aesthetics revisited","authors":"Sarah Held","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00142_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00142_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article is concerned with fragile masculinity and its tendency towards authoritarianism and violence by focusing on the characteristics of a specific social group/online community of men called incels (involuntary celibates). Incels are men who have no sexual encounters, blame women for their exclusion from sexual contact and create toxic online communities to share their violent and deadly misogyny. This article will detail their typical characteristics, including a discussion of their idealized body appearances. These toxic body politics are sampled by National Socialist aesthetics and charged with homoerotic looks and body styles. Like other right-wing groups, incels are driven by homophobia and racism. In their world-view, they also understand their own non-beauty-compliant appearance according to the mainstream normative of beauty as a reason for their sexlessness. The article focuses on the strategy of the misogynistic online community to achieve ‘looksmaxxing’ through cosmetic surgery. Their idealized body images sampled from various set pieces, from pop culture to Nazi chic, display consistent body ideals which feed on ancient mythologies.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-07-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"79584168","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Dressed for Freedom: The Fashionable Politics of American Feminism, Einav Rabinovitch-Fox (2021) 《为自由而着装:美国女性主义的时尚政治》，伊纳夫·拉宾诺维奇-福克斯著(2021)
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2022-07-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00137_5
Joy Sperling
{"title":"Dressed for Freedom: The Fashionable Politics of American Feminism, Einav Rabinovitch-Fox (2021)","authors":"Joy Sperling","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00137_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00137_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Dressed for Freedom: The Fashionable Politics of American Feminism, Einav Rabinovitch-Fox (2021)Urbana, IL, Chicago, IL and Springfield, IL: University of Illinois Press, 248 pp.,ISBN 978-0-25204-401-4, h/bk, $110.00ISBN 978-0-25208-606-9, p/bk,\u0000 $24.95ISBN 978-0-25205-294-1, e-book, $14.95","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"83465007","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Personal Style Blogs: Appearances that Fascinate, Rosie Findlay (2017) 个人风格博客:引人入胜的外表，罗西·芬德利著(2017)
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2022-07-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00135_5
Rachel Hart
{"title":"Personal Style Blogs: Appearances that Fascinate, Rosie Findlay (2017)","authors":"Rachel Hart","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00135_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00135_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Personal Style Blogs: Appearances that Fascinate, Rosie Findlay (2017)Bristol: Intellect Ltd., 185 pp.,ISBN 978-1-78320-834-0, p/bk, $33.00","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"77272475","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
African Luxury: Aesthetics and Politics, Mehita Iqani and Simidele Dosekun (eds) (2019) 《非洲奢侈品:美学与政治》，Mehita Iqani和Simidele Dosekun主编(2019)
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2022-07-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00136_5
Jacqueline F. Mullins
{"title":"African Luxury: Aesthetics and Politics, Mehita Iqani and Simidele Dosekun (eds) (2019)","authors":"Jacqueline F. Mullins","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00136_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00136_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: African Luxury: Aesthetics and Politics, Mehita Iqani and Simidele Dosekun (eds) (2019)Bristol: Intellect Ltd., 180 pp.,ISBN 978-1-78320-993-4, h/bk, $33.00","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88165015","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Venus & Diana: Fashioning the Jazz Age, curated by Clare Sauro 维纳斯与戴安娜:塑造爵士时代，由克莱尔·索罗策划
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2022-07-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00134_5
Jennifer Nieling
{"title":"Venus & Diana: Fashioning the Jazz Age, curated by Clare Sauro","authors":"Jennifer Nieling","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00134_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00134_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Venus & Diana: Fashioning the Jazz Age, curated by Clare SauroThe Robert and Penny Fox Historic Costume Collection, Drexel University, Philadelphia, 5 November 2021‐6 May 2022","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84310445","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
‘This season of cellophane everywhere’: The scintillating cellophane fashions of 1934 “这个玻璃纸无处不在的季节”:1934年的玻璃纸时尚
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2022-07-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00133_1
C. Sauro
{"title":"‘This season of cellophane everywhere’: The scintillating cellophane fashions of 1934","authors":"C. Sauro","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00133_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00133_1","url":null,"abstract":"In 1934, textiles woven with strips of glittering cellophane were the pinnacle of high fashion. This trend has been credited mainly to Elsa Schiaparelli, who worked closely with the French textile manufacturer, Colcombet, to produce some of the most notable textiles of the early 1930s.\u0000 While Schiaparelli was undeniably prominent in the promotion of cellophane fashions, she was one of many designers utilizing textiles woven with slit cellulose film during this period. The cellophane fashions produced by Schiaparelli and her peers were startling in their modernity and emblematic\u0000 of the ‘strange glamour’ worn by some of the best-dressed women of the early 1930s. Cellophane fashions were promoted by the French couturiers throughout 1934 and quickly embraced by the American fashion industry. However, despite this initial enthusiasm, the cellophane fashion\u0000 trend soon subsided as the artistic and intellectual associations of cellophane fashions were replaced with those of practicality and thrift.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87298636","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
The Poetics and Politics of the Veil in Iran: An Archival and Photographic Adventure, Azadeh Fatehrad (2020) 《伊朗面纱的诗学与政治:档案与摄影冒险》，阿扎德·法塔赫拉德(2020)
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2022-07-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00138_5
Hawa Stwodah
{"title":"The Poetics and Politics of the Veil in Iran: An Archival and Photographic Adventure, Azadeh Fatehrad (2020)","authors":"Hawa Stwodah","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00138_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00138_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: The Poetics and Politics of the Veil in Iran: An Archival and Photographic Adventure, Azadeh Fatehrad (2020)Bristol: Intellect Ltd, 116 pp.,ISBN 978-1-78938-126-9, p/bk, $45.00","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"86917154","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
My fabulous gay lifestyle: Love is love 我的同性恋生活方式:爱就是爱
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2022-07-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00132_2
Joseph H. Hancock, II
{"title":"My fabulous gay lifestyle: Love is love","authors":"Joseph H. Hancock, II","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00132_2","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00132_2","url":null,"abstract":"Dr Joseph H. Hancock, II is celebrating his first wedding anniversary to his violinist husband Mr Raymond Mallari. For eighteen years, the two of them have been full-time caregivers to his mother Peggy Alder. In this editorial, Hancock explains why his new modifying sexuality is not\u0000 only gay, but tired. He also thanks all those who contributed to the Volume 9, Number 3 issue of the journal Fashion, Style & Popular Culture.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87709222","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Adjusting standard retail practices for nonstandard consumers: How punk and subcultural fashion boutiques find success and build community 为非标准消费者调整标准零售实践:朋克和亚文化时尚精品店如何获得成功并建立社区
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2022-05-30 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00131_1
Monica Sklar, Maureen Lehto Brewster, Brett Whitley
{"title":"Adjusting standard retail practices for nonstandard consumers: How punk and subcultural fashion boutiques find success and build community","authors":"Monica Sklar, Maureen Lehto Brewster, Brett Whitley","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00131_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00131_1","url":null,"abstract":"This research analyses the merchandising practices used to create a punk retail environment and shopping experience, distinct from more mainstream forms of consumption available simultaneously, as well as to document the merchandising history of United States punk style development, which is not widely known. Through primary interviews and archival data, this research discerns the practices that set these boutiques apart from their merchandising counterparts, Do It Yourself, or mass market chains. Analysis reviewed how these boutiques reconciled the challenge of appealing to critical consumers who were otherwise poised to potentially not need or want their services as scene members were a niche market segment that leaned anti-capitalist. Owner involvement, employee knowledge and retention, visual display, careful object selection and non-merchandising interaction with regional and national punk scenes are significant considerations. These stores provided community, commerce and educational spaces that projected subcultural authenticity through their business methods and cultural awareness. While not without some criticism of packaging a caricature of a lifestyle, overall the boutiques’ attempts at thoughtful practices led to consumer loyalty and business longevity, gaining market success alongside scene approval.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-05-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"89838360","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Personal clothing style and self-concept: Embracing the true, the ideal and the creative self 个人着装风格与自我概念:拥抱真实、理想、创意的自我
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2022-05-30 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00130_1
Justina Vingilyte, Ameerah Khadaroo
{"title":"Personal clothing style and self-concept: Embracing the true, the ideal and the creative self","authors":"Justina Vingilyte, Ameerah Khadaroo","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00130_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00130_1","url":null,"abstract":"Research shows that clothing style can influence self-perception, cognition and behaviour. However, the concept of personal clothing style and how it is linked to self-concept from an individual and subjective perspective of the wearer has received limited empirical attention. This qualitative study aimed to explore women’s lived experiences and perceptions of personal clothing style. Using a homogeneous sample of seven female participants, data were collected through in-depth semi-structured interviews. Interpretative Phenomenological Analysis revealed that personal clothing style constitutes an embodiment of the true self, representation of the ideal self and expression of the creative self. More specifically, personal clothing style is predicated on self-knowledge, consistency and enduring sense of comfort. It is also perceived to actualize desired self-conceptions and one’s creative potential. Findings not only provide an empirically founded conceptualization of personal clothing style, but also identify its important psychological properties with implications for both psychology and fashion research.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-05-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"83837014","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 2
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