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Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo 东京乐天时装周
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2023-07-25 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00199_5
Ali Khan
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引用次数: 0
The ‘look’! Aesthetic labour, aesthetic norms and appearance-based recruitment in the runway modelling industry “看”!审美劳动，审美规范和基于外观的招聘在t台模特行业
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2023-07-25 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00201_1
I. Jestratijević, N. Rudd
{"title":"The ‘look’! Aesthetic labour, aesthetic norms and appearance-based recruitment in the runway modelling industry","authors":"I. Jestratijević, N. Rudd","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00201_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00201_1","url":null,"abstract":"Aesthetic labour in the runway modelling industry refers to the practice of recruitment of models-workers on the basis of desired corporeal and facial dispositions. Aesthetic labour theory foregrounds embodiment, which situates the value of physical appearance and aesthetic norms in the workplace context showcasing how the models-workers get recruited and stratified based on their looks. The study employs an explanatory sequential mixed-method design to investigate aesthetic norms including the desired corporeal and facial dispositions that are expected from models-workers in the runway modelling industry. The study included two phases, a quantitative phase and a qualitative phase. The main objective of the first, quantitative research phase, was to investigate the aesthetic norms among 609 international runway models who were recruited to perform in designer exclusive fashion shows during seven consecutive annual fashion week seasons from 2013 to 2020 in New York, Paris, London and/or Milan. The main objective of the second qualitative research phase was to qualify aesthetic norms through a visual content analysis, and in-depth exploration of 40 unretouched professional modelling snapshots (photographs of face and body) for the top new model talents in the 2019–20 fashion season. Model photos were extracted from the popular industry website, Models.com. The rationale for collecting both quantitative and qualitative data was to form a robust and comprehensive assessment of aesthetic norms in the runway modelling industry. The same level of comprehensiveness would not be obtained by using either type of data individually. This article advances academic research on aesthetic labour in the fashion and modelling industry by showcasing why appearance-based recruitment in this sector represents the practice of occupational segregation that creates social inequalities and negatively impacts the labour market.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"75912152","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Thailand Fashion Week 泰国时装周
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2023-07-20 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00198_5
Ali Khan
{"title":"Thailand Fashion Week","authors":"Ali Khan","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00198_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00198_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Thailand Fashion Week, Spring/Summer 2023, Bangkok, 29–30 November 2022","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-07-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"91274884","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Cultural Appropriation in Fashion and Entertainment, Yuniya Kawamura and Jung-Whan Marc de Jong (2021) 《时尚与娱乐中的文化挪用》，河村游弥和马克·德容(2021)
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2023-07-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00191_5
Gwyneth I. Williams
{"title":"Cultural Appropriation in Fashion and Entertainment, Yuniya Kawamura and Jung-Whan Marc de Jong (2021)","authors":"Gwyneth I. Williams","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00191_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00191_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Cultural Appropriation in Fashion and Entertainment, Yuniya Kawamura and Jung-Whan Marc de Jong (2021)\u0000 London and New York: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 218 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-1-35017-055-1, p/bk, $20.96\u0000 ISBN 978-1-3501-7054-4, h/bk, $63.00\u0000 ISBN 978-1-3501-7058-2, ePUB, $16.17\u0000 ISBN 978-1-3501-7056-8, e-book, $16.17","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"79440575","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Unfolding the Past, Elizabeth Wilson (2022) 《揭开过去》，伊丽莎白·威尔逊(Elizabeth Wilson)， 2022年出版
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2023-07-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00188_5
L. Matheson
{"title":"Unfolding the Past, Elizabeth Wilson (2022)","authors":"L. Matheson","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00188_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00188_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Unfolding the Past, Elizabeth Wilson (2022)\u0000 London, New York and Dublin: Bloomsbury Visual Arts Publishing, 296 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-1-3502-3259-4, h/bk, $27.00\u0000 ISBN 978-1-3502-3260-0, e-book, $24.30","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"80672875","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Some Wear Leather, Some Wear Lace: The Worldwide Compendium of Postpunk and Goth in the 1980s, Andi Harriman and Marloes Bontje (2014) 《有人穿皮革，有人穿蕾丝:20世纪80年代后朋克和哥特的全球概览》，安迪·哈里曼和马洛斯·邦杰(2014)
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2023-07-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00185_5
Renee Lamb
{"title":"Some Wear Leather, Some Wear Lace: The Worldwide Compendium of Postpunk and Goth in the 1980s, Andi Harriman and Marloes Bontje (2014)","authors":"Renee Lamb","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00185_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00185_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Some Wear Leather, Some Wear Lace: The Worldwide Compendium of Postpunk and Goth in the 1980s, Andi Harriman and Marloes Bontje (2014)\u0000 Bristol: Intellect Ltd., 216 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-1-78320-352-9, p/bk, $35.00\u0000 ISBN 978-1-78320-353-6, e-book, $31.00","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"83927524","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Crossing Gender Boundaries: Fashion to Create, Disrupt and Transcend, Andrew Reilly and Ben Barry (eds) (2020) 跨越性别界限:时尚的创造、颠覆和超越，安德鲁·赖利和本·巴里(编)(2020)
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2023-07-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00181_5
F. Blanco
{"title":"Crossing Gender Boundaries: Fashion to Create, Disrupt and Transcend, Andrew Reilly and Ben Barry (eds) (2020)","authors":"F. Blanco","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00181_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00181_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Crossing Gender Boundaries: Fashion to Create, Disrupt and Transcend, Andrew Reilly and Ben Barry (eds) (2020)\u0000 Bristol: Intellect Ltd., 225 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-1-78938-153-5, p/bk, $50.00","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"90209211","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Jude Tallichet’s sculpture of ordinary objects: Life as we don’t quite know it 裘德·塔利切特的普通物品雕塑:我们不太了解的生命
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2023-07-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00179_3
Joy Sperling
{"title":"Jude Tallichet’s sculpture of ordinary objects: Life as we don’t quite know it","authors":"Joy Sperling","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00179_3","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00179_3","url":null,"abstract":"This essay explores how the visual world not only speaks to us passively but can also expect us to respond actively. It proposes that an installation/exhibition of sculpture, in this case Jude Tallichet’s Heat Map, which opened at Smack Mellon and closed again within days as the city went into a COVID-19-induced lockdown, can transform into a set of presumptive living visual identities in the making that ask us to respond to their invitation to visual and social conversation. The installation was not originally about COVID-19, but as the nation changed, so did its meaning. By inverting the question of how artists respond to a critical situation by asking instead how images respond to external events over time, we can begin to comprehend not just how artists make meaning with works of art but how works of art make meaning within themselves. My analytical framework leads to an acknowledgement that there are many kinds of visual culture and many kinds of artists across culture. Art is no longer for the privileged and artists are no longer their subalterns. Our conversations with the art constituting our visual culture should be as diverse and as individual today as their visual creations.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"90825136","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Seamlessness: Making and (Un)Knowing in Fashion Practice, Yeseung Lee (2016) 《无缝:时装实践中的制作与认知》，李义升(2016)
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2023-07-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00189_5
Henry Navarro Delgado
{"title":"Seamlessness: Making and (Un)Knowing in Fashion Practice, Yeseung Lee (2016)","authors":"Henry Navarro Delgado","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00189_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00189_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Seamlessness: Making and (Un)Knowing in Fashion Practice, Yeseung Lee (2016)\u0000 Bristol: Intellect Ltd., 215 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-1-78320-642-1, p/bk, $57.81\u0000 ISBN 978-1-78320-644-5, ePUB, $51.82\u0000 ISBN 978-1-68320-643-8, e-book, $51.82","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"79306582","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Fashion, Women and Power: The Politics of Dress, Denise N. Rall (ed.) (2022) 《时尚、女性与权力:服装的政治》，丹尼斯·n·罗尔(编)(2022)
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2023-07-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00182_5
Beverly Gordon
{"title":"Fashion, Women and Power: The Politics of Dress, Denise N. Rall (ed.) (2022)","authors":"Beverly Gordon","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00182_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00182_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Fashion, Women and Power: The Politics of Dress , Denise N. Rall (ed.) (2022) Bristol: Intellect Ltd., 235 pp., ISBN 978-1-78938-461-1, p/bk, £22.00/$29.99","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135265607","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
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