Fashion Style & Popular Culture最新文献

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‘The American Look’: The transformation of women’s sportswear in 1930s and 1940s America “美国风格”:20世纪30年代和40年代美国女性运动装的转变
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2023-09-07 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00208_1
Elizabeth Kealy-Morris
{"title":"‘The American Look’: The transformation of women’s sportswear in 1930s and 1940s America","authors":"Elizabeth Kealy-Morris","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00208_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00208_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article will suggest that the American sportswear style reflects the unique historical and cultural influences on American dress from the birth of the new democratic nation in the eighteenth century to the dominance of New York City’s ready-to-wear industry in the 1950s. Focusing on the key decades of the 1930s and 1940s, this article will explore the marketing campaign of Dorothy Shaver, vice-president of the luxury retailer Lord & Taylor, who in 1932 coined the phrase ‘the American Look’ to promote American fashion designers’ collections. The legacy of sportswear designer Claire McCardell, arguably the best known of the New York-based ready-to-wear designers will be examined. McCardell’s combination of nostalgic American prairie style with the use of everyday workwear fabrics of cotton plaid, denim, wool and jersey created an unpretentious casual American style based on comfort, ease and flexibility, which is reflected today in the contemporary American ready-to-wear market. The article will maintain that the promotion of the American Look via photographic shoots, magazines, advertisements, visual merchandising, exhibition and film influenced the style and taste of dress that the female American body ought to ‘fit into’. This style, it will be argued, encouraged the development of a cultural memory of American dress by establishing a material link between national identity and clothing.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-09-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88589770","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
DEI representation on Instagram: An analysis of two fast fashion retailers DEI在Instagram上的表现:对两家快时尚零售商的分析
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2023-09-07 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00210_1
Sarah A. Zumbrock, Jihyun Sung, Ian R. Mull
{"title":"DEI representation on Instagram: An analysis of two fast fashion retailers","authors":"Sarah A. Zumbrock, Jihyun Sung, Ian R. Mull","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00210_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00210_1","url":null,"abstract":"As fashion retailers have started to emphasize their responsibility in society, the significance of diversity, equity and inclusion (DEI) in the fashion industry has increased. This study explores the DEI commitments made by two fast fashion retailers (i.e. H&M and Zara) to examine whether they uphold and portray their DEI commitments through their Instagram postings by focusing on the following four DEI subcategories: people of colour, size inclusivity, LGBTQIA+ and physical disabilities. The study first analysed each retailer’s DEI statement to determine what claims each retailer makes regarding DEI. The data collection process comprised an examination of Instagram posts during the first week of every month from February 2021 to January 2022 utilizing the National Retail Federation (NRF) 4-5-4 calendar. Researchers collected qualitative/quantitative data and used content/comparative analysis to analyse the data. The findings indicated that representation might not be as equitable as their claims state. Based on the findings of this research, the study provides practical implications for enhancing DEI representation in retailers’ Instagram posts and marketing to facilitate more effective communication. Further, this study contributes to the existing literature on DEI commitments in the fashion industry by highlighting the practices of fast fashion retailers in their Instagram posts and marketing.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-09-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"80723486","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Historical Perspectives on Sustainable Fashion: Inspiration for Change, 2nd ed., Amy Twigger Holyroyd, Jennifer Farley Gordon and Colleen Hill (2023) 可持续时尚的历史视角:变革的灵感,第2版,艾米·特维格·霍利罗伊德,詹妮弗·法利·戈登和科琳·希尔(2023)
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2023-09-05 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00211_5
Joy Sperling
{"title":"Historical Perspectives on Sustainable Fashion: Inspiration for Change, 2nd ed., Amy Twigger Holyroyd, Jennifer Farley Gordon and Colleen Hill (2023)","authors":"Joy Sperling","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00211_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00211_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Historical Perspectives on Sustainable Fashion: Inspiration for Change, 2nd ed., Amy Twigger Holyroyd, Jennifer Farley Gordon and Colleen Hill (2023)\u0000 London, New York, New Delhi and Sydney: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 198 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-1-35016-044-6, h/bk, $100\u0000 ISBN 978-1-35016-043-9, p/bk, $34.95\u0000 ISBN 978-1-35016-043-9, e-PDF, $31.45\u0000 ISBN 978-1-35016-047-7, e-Pub, $31.45","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-09-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"75640044","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Resistencia y Libertá: Exhibición DEL traje DE Bomba desde el siglo XVII hasta el presente 抵抗与解放:从17世纪至今的炸弹服展览
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2023-09-05 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00212_5
Amanda Ortiz-Pellot
{"title":"Resistencia y Libertá: Exhibición DEL traje DE Bomba desde el siglo XVII hasta el presente","authors":"Amanda Ortiz-Pellot","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00212_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00212_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Resistencia y Libertá: Exhibición DEL traje DE Bomba desde el siglo XVII hasta el presente (‘Resistance and freedom: Exhibition of the Bomba dress from the seventeenth century to today’), curated by Milteri Tucker Concepción, Museo Casa Blanca, Old San Juan, Puerto Rico, 4–25 June 2023","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-09-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"75176653","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Fashioning the Afropolis: Histories, Materialities and Aesthetic Practices, Kerstin Pinther, Kristin Kastner and Basile Ndjio (eds) (2022) 《塑造非洲城市:历史、物质性和美学实践》,克斯廷·平瑟、克里斯汀·卡斯特纳和巴西尔·恩吉欧主编,2022年出版。
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2023-08-10 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00205_5
Lorynn Divita
{"title":"Fashioning the Afropolis: Histories, Materialities and Aesthetic Practices, Kerstin Pinther, Kristin Kastner and Basile Ndjio (eds) (2022)","authors":"Lorynn Divita","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00205_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00205_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Fashioning the Afropolis: Histories, Materialities and Aesthetic Practices, Kerstin Pinther, Kristin Kastner and Basile Ndjio (eds) (2022)\u0000 London: Bloomsbury Publishing, 240 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-1-35017-952-3, h/bk, $103.50","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-08-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88956681","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Textiles and Fashion, 3rd ed., Jenny Udale (2023) 纺织品与时尚,第3版,珍妮·尤代尔(2023)
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2023-08-10 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00207_5
Amanda Sikarskie
{"title":"Textiles and Fashion, 3rd ed., Jenny Udale (2023)","authors":"Amanda Sikarskie","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00207_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00207_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Textiles and Fashion, 3rd ed., Jenny Udale (2023)\u0000 London: Bloomsbury, 216 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-1-35009-489-5, p/bk, $29.95","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-08-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"89692900","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Crafting Luxury: Craftsmanship, Manufacture, Technology and the Retail Environment, Mark Bloomfield, Shaun Borstrock, Silvio Carta and Veronica Manlow (2022) 《制作奢侈品:工艺、制造、技术和零售环境》,Mark Bloomfield、Shaun Borstrock、Silvio Carta和Veronica Manlow(2022)著。
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2023-08-10 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00204_5
Deidra W. Arrington
{"title":"Crafting Luxury: Craftsmanship, Manufacture, Technology and the Retail Environment, Mark Bloomfield, Shaun Borstrock, Silvio Carta and Veronica Manlow (2022)","authors":"Deidra W. Arrington","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00204_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00204_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Crafting Luxury: Craftsmanship, Manufacture, Technology and the Retail Environment, Mark Bloomfield, Shaun Borstrock, Silvio Carta and Veronica Manlow (2022)\u0000 Bristol: Intellect Ltd., 187 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-1-78938-580-9, p/bk, $45.00","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-08-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"83257338","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Why We Can’t Have Nice Things: Social Media’s Influence on Fashion, Ethics, and Property, Minh-Ha T. Pham (2022) 《为什么我们不能拥有美好的事物:社交媒体对时尚、道德和财产的影响》,范敏哈(Minh-Ha T. Pham, 2022)
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2023-08-10 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00206_5
Amy Dorie
{"title":"Why We Can’t Have Nice Things: Social Media’s Influence on Fashion, Ethics, and Property, Minh-Ha T. Pham (2022)","authors":"Amy Dorie","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00206_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00206_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Why We Can’t Have Nice Things: Social Media’s Influence on Fashion, Ethics, and Property, Minh-Ha T. Pham (2022)\u0000 Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 176 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-1-47801-861-2, p/bk, $23.95","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-08-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"89808180","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Costume design in film: Telling the story and creating Malcolm X’s character in Spike Lee’s Malcolm X (1992) 电影中的服装设计:在斯派克·李的《马尔科姆·艾克斯》(1992)中讲述故事并塑造马尔科姆·艾克斯的角色
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2023-08-09 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00203_1
Marta Torregrosa, María Noguera, Natalia Luque-Zequeira
{"title":"Costume design in film: Telling the story and creating Malcolm X’s character in Spike Lee’s Malcolm X (1992)","authors":"Marta Torregrosa, María Noguera, Natalia Luque-Zequeira","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00203_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00203_1","url":null,"abstract":"Costume designers collaborate with film directors to bring the characters in the script to life. Film costumes are a visual tool of a narrative nature with which costume designers meet the diegetic needs of each story. Through clothing, they make internal aspects of the characters visible, such as their transformations, their nature and styles, their passions, aspirations and suffering, as well as aspects of the spatial, temporal and social context in which the stories take place. This study explores costume design by Ruth E. Carter as a dramatic tool in the biopic Malcolm X (1992), directed by Spike Lee. To that end, the function of film costumes is assessed both as a visual and narrative tool that exceeds the aesthetic dimension and is essential to give meaning to any film production.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-08-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"85540300","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Food & Fashion, Melissa Marra-Alvarez and Elizabeth Way (eds) (2022) 《食品与时尚》,梅丽莎·马拉-阿尔瓦雷斯和伊丽莎白·韦(编辑)(2022)
IF 0.2
Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2023-07-26 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00202_5
Payton Becker
{"title":"Food & Fashion, Melissa Marra-Alvarez and Elizabeth Way (eds) (2022)","authors":"Payton Becker","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00202_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00202_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Food & Fashion, Melissa Marra-Alvarez and Elizabeth Way (eds) (2022)\u0000 New York: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 320 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-1-35016-434-5, h/bk, $45.00","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-07-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"83485179","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
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