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Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty最新文献

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Editorial foreword 编辑前言
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2024-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00075_2
Susan B. Kaiser, Anneke Smelik
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引用次数: 0
Who’s in and who’s out of (queer) fashion (studies)? 谁是（同性恋）时尚（研究）的参与者？
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2024-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00068_2
Roberto Filippello, Erique Zhang
{"title":"Who’s in and who’s out of (queer) fashion (studies)?","authors":"Roberto Filippello, Erique Zhang","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00068_2","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00068_2","url":null,"abstract":"Despite vast scholarship on LGBTQ+ fashion, within fashion studies there is still a relative lack of engagement with transgender identities and epistemologies. ‘Transgender Embodiment in Fashion and Beauty’ interrogates how trans people and their experiences have been minimized within fashion studies and argues for an expansive and interdisciplinary understanding of what trans fashion studies might be. To do so, this Special Issue brings together scholars from a variety of fields, including trans studies, Black studies, design history, performance studies and postcolonial studies, to reflect on the trans/fashion nexus. It ultimately aims to pave the way for researchers to excavate unknown or obliterated fashion histories and to centre trans identity as the field of fashion studies continues to evolve.","PeriodicalId":194563,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":"74 13","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141231051","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
The inescapable haunt(ing): Dressing trans life after death 无法摆脱的困扰：死后的变装生活
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2024-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00071_1
Ev Delafose
{"title":"The inescapable haunt(ing): Dressing trans life after death","authors":"Ev Delafose","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00071_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00071_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article traces the material effects of Black trans death on Black trans life, particularly in the dimensions of aesthetics, fashion and beauty. I use a Black trans hauntological approach to analyse recordings of Balls, film and television, and personal anecdotes of Black transness in order to develop a transtemporal mapping between ghosts and their haunted subjects. On the one hand, my research builds upon a growing field of work in Black queer and trans studies that looks at Black trans life and its relationship with the ‘afterlife’. On the other, it critiques the liberal humanism that grounds much of fashion studies, thus foregrounding subjects, methodologies and worlds that are still under-researched within the field. By focusing on the practice of dressing, and specifically on the autonomous garmenting of trans people, I show how the violated and murdered Black trans person’s haunting can be traced materially. At the centrepiece of this article is the interrogation of how contemporary dressing practices of ‘living’ Black trans people invoke and are possessed by the ghosts of anti-trans violence. Found in the reciprocal relationship of invocation and possession is the mutual care transmitted between and through the barriers of Black trans life and death.","PeriodicalId":194563,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":"76 6","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141231047","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Shaping foundations: Trans feminine self-fashioning, DIY and community building in the postwar United States 塑造基础：战后美国跨性别女性的自我塑造、DIY 和社区建设
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2024-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00069_1
Isabelle Held
{"title":"Shaping foundations: Trans feminine self-fashioning, DIY and community building in the postwar United States","authors":"Isabelle Held","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00069_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00069_1","url":null,"abstract":"More than 5 million pairs of falsies, also known as bust pads, were sold in the United States in 1946, exceeding prior sales records. In the postwar United States, falsies were an increasingly popular way of shaping the body into a fashionable curvaceous silhouette and utilized the latest in wartime synthetic material developments. Falsies were an important part of trans and queer life. However, these wearers and makers have been largely omitted from histories of fashion, foundationwear and material culture. This article traces the trans feminine history of falsies and other padded foundationwear in the postwar United States. The author analyses a range of archival materials largely sourced from the Digital Transgender Archive including publications and print ephemera from the 1950s–70s to show how trans feminine, queer and gender-nonconforming people innovated falsie design through DIY practices. While the majority of individuals in the postwar United States were unable to access trans healthcare and anti-trans legislation continued to publicly police bodies, trans feminine networks circulated information on how to purchase, wear and make padded foundations. These collective efforts empowered wearers and built community in a variety of ways.","PeriodicalId":194563,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":"7 2","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141230360","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Transgendering-assemblages: Sin Wai Kin’s trans techniques and acts of boybanding 变性组合：冼伟坚的变性技术和男孩组合行为
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2024-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00073_1
Rachel Hann
{"title":"Transgendering-assemblages: Sin Wai Kin’s trans techniques and acts of boybanding","authors":"Rachel Hann","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00073_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00073_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article investigates the artist Sin Wai Kin’s (單慧乾) speculative approach to drag through the prism of ‘transgendering-assemblages’. Influenced by the assemblage theory of Manuel DeLanda and Jasbir Puar, I propose that transgendering-assemblages actualize the properties of transness (Marquis Bey) through particular trans techniques (Grace E. Lavery). I introduce Sin’s more-than-human trans techniques, from make-up to costume, and approach to nonbinary storytelling to investigate identity assemblages more broadly. With explicit attention to their engagement with Chinese opera and Taoism, the speculative boyband in Sin’s Turner Prize nominated work It’s Always You (2021) prompts my proposal for ‘boybanding’ as a technique for investigating identity assemblages. The final section is focused on the genderings of East Asian masculinities in Sin’s work to argue how all gender-assemblages are also ‘racializing assemblages’ (Alexander G. Weheliye). I conclude with a provocation on what assemblage as a nonbinary concept (defined by what it does rather than what it is) can offer studies of gender.","PeriodicalId":194563,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":"12 4","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141229683","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Clandestine fashion amidst war and migration: Murat, trans Afghan women and politics of (un)belonging 战争和移民中的秘密时尚：穆拉特、阿富汗变性妇女和（无）归属感政治
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2024-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00074_1
Ahmad Qais Munhazim
{"title":"Clandestine fashion amidst war and migration: Murat, trans Afghan women and politics of (un)belonging","authors":"Ahmad Qais Munhazim","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00074_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00074_1","url":null,"abstract":"Discourses around Afghan women’s fashion and beauty during the so-called War on Terror have been used to justify interventions and war. From the Beauty Academy of Kabul to Vogue’s Burqa series, Afghan women have lurked within the possibilities and impossibilities of the traditionally oppressed and modernly liberated. Trans Afghan women have remained invisible. Building on the feminist critique of the discourse of beauty in Afghanistan, this article brings into conversation the everyday performances of fashion and beauty in the lives of murat, trans Afghan women. Through a de/colonial ethnography of three murat/trans Afghan women in Kabul, Afghanistan, and Dublin, Ireland, I argue that clandestine fashion for some murat/trans Afghan women becomes means of belonging and sites of negotiations with home and exile. Some use fashion to escape the everyday violence of war and refugeeism, while others use it to disrupt the heterosexist gaze on the streets of metropolitan cities such as Kabul and Dublin and give visibility to trans women and their embodiment of fashion as political acts of resistance. ‘Clandestine fashion’ and beauty embodiment and performances of these trans Afghan women shed light on everyday security, friendship/kinship, joy and the complexities of trans refugee life during times of war and exile.","PeriodicalId":194563,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":"1 3","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141229676","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
The transfeminine mystique: Transsexual models and the UK press, 1960–71 变性人的神秘感：变性模特与英国媒体，1960-1971 年
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2024-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00072_1
A. Esculapio
{"title":"The transfeminine mystique: Transsexual models and the UK press, 1960–71","authors":"A. Esculapio","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00072_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00072_1","url":null,"abstract":"The article investigates transgender embodiment, public feelings and (in)visibility in the British press in the 1960s and early 1970s by using the models and performers April Ashley (1935–2021) and Amanda Lear (1939–present) as case studies. Both Ashley and Lear worked as performers at the celebrated Parisian cabaret bar Le Carrousel in the 1950s, and later moved to London independently. Ashley – white, British, working class – enjoyed a successful but brief career as a commercial model that was cut short following her outing by a British tabloid in 1961. Lear – of French and alleged south-east Asian origins – associated herself with the fashionable Chelsea set in London in the 1960s and 1970s. Drawing on press articles, fashion editorials, documentaries and autobiographical writing, in this article, I reconstruct the two models’ career trajectories and examine how the British media constructed Ashley and Lear as both objects of disgust and exotic objects of fascination. In doing so, I critically assess their respective attempts to navigate these public feelings in relation to the politics of (in)visibility in the contemporary British media landscape.","PeriodicalId":194563,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":"10 11","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141235168","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Selfie Aesthetics: Seeing Trans Feminist Futures in Self-Representational Art, Nicole Erin Morse (2022) 自拍美学：在自我展示艺术中看到跨性别女权主义的未来，妮可-艾琳-莫尔斯（2022年）
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2024-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00070_5
Drew Gonzales
{"title":"Selfie Aesthetics: Seeing Trans Feminist Futures in Self-Representational Art, Nicole Erin Morse (2022)","authors":"Drew Gonzales","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00070_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00070_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Selfie Aesthetics: Seeing Trans Feminist Futures in Self-Representational Art, Nicole Erin Morse (2022)\u0000 Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 179 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-1-47801-814-8, p/bk, $26","PeriodicalId":194563,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":"1 12","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141230897","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Chic in knit: Youth, yarn and the comeback of the Faroese sweater 时髦的针织品：青春、纱线和法罗群岛毛衣的回归
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2023-12-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00062_1
Firouz Gaini
{"title":"Chic in knit: Youth, yarn and the comeback of the Faroese sweater","authors":"Firouz Gaini","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00062_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00062_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article explores the recent revitalization of Faroese knitwear production and fashion in what I have called the ‘woollen turn’ in the Faroe Islands. I examine and analyse the reinvention of the Faroese knitting styles and cultural identities through the lens of an anthropologist reflecting on the role of the multifaceted globalization process in present-day craftsmanship and entrepreneurship in the context of a North Atlantic archipelago. The revival of the patterned sweater is a story about slow fashion, local knowledge and the search for new Faroese expressions inspired by the world beyond the ocean. The patterned sweater, locally embedded yet also immersed in global flows of fashion, has the potential of endless variation as handmade woollen garment. The sweater is not just a sweater anymore. It has a story of value chains and of local–global connections in the Arctic region, but it is also an environmental footprint and a point of identification. This article draws on material from TV documentaries, newspapers, fashion magazines and websites, as well as semi-structured interviews with fashion designers and knitting-connoisseurs in the Faroe Islands.","PeriodicalId":194563,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" 39","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138616720","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Editorial foreword 编辑前言
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2023-12-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00060_2
Anneke Smelik, Susan B. Kaiser
{"title":"Editorial foreword","authors":"Anneke Smelik, Susan B. Kaiser","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00060_2","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00060_2","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":194563,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" 88","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138611654","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
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