时髦的针织品:青春、纱线和法罗群岛毛衣的回归

Firouz Gaini
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摘要

本文探讨了法罗群岛最近的针织品生产和时尚复兴,我称之为“羊毛转向”。我通过人类学家的视角审视和分析法罗编织风格和文化身份的重塑,反思在北大西洋群岛的背景下,多方面的全球化进程在当今工艺和创业中的作用。图案毛衣的复兴是一个关于慢时尚、当地知识和寻找受大洋彼岸世界启发的新法罗语表达方式的故事。有图案的毛衣,既融入当地,又融入全球时尚潮流,作为手工羊毛服装,具有无穷无尽的变化潜力。毛衣不再只是一件毛衣了。它是北极地区价值链和本地与全球联系的故事,但它也是一个环境足迹和一个识别点。本文取材于电视纪录片、报纸、时尚杂志和网站,以及对法罗群岛时装设计师和编织鉴赏家的半结构化采访。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
Chic in knit: Youth, yarn and the comeback of the Faroese sweater
This article explores the recent revitalization of Faroese knitwear production and fashion in what I have called the ‘woollen turn’ in the Faroe Islands. I examine and analyse the reinvention of the Faroese knitting styles and cultural identities through the lens of an anthropologist reflecting on the role of the multifaceted globalization process in present-day craftsmanship and entrepreneurship in the context of a North Atlantic archipelago. The revival of the patterned sweater is a story about slow fashion, local knowledge and the search for new Faroese expressions inspired by the world beyond the ocean. The patterned sweater, locally embedded yet also immersed in global flows of fashion, has the potential of endless variation as handmade woollen garment. The sweater is not just a sweater anymore. It has a story of value chains and of local–global connections in the Arctic region, but it is also an environmental footprint and a point of identification. This article draws on material from TV documentaries, newspapers, fashion magazines and websites, as well as semi-structured interviews with fashion designers and knitting-connoisseurs in the Faroe Islands.
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