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Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty最新文献

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Arctic fashion 北极时尚
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2023-12-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00061_2
M. Melchior, Maria Mackinney
{"title":"Arctic fashion","authors":"M. Melchior, Maria Mackinney","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00061_2","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00061_2","url":null,"abstract":"The Arctic region is facing cultural, environmental and political transformation. These transformations raise urgent issues of independence, identity and climate crisis. Fashion provides a unique entry point to further understand the complexity of living in the remote regions of the Arctic, while being globally connected in a digital era. Reconciling with history, adapting to modernity, decolonization and governances present key themes, some of which will be addressed in this Special Issue. Fashion is understood here as a cultural, material and economic phenomenon in the form of dress and body adornment. More than ever, fashion is distributed and consumed on a global scale across even remote regions and extreme climates. This Special Issue brings together scholars from the region to share their research on fashion in the Arctic. The aim is to invite further studies of the practice and interpretation of fashion that reflect the immense diversity of the regions in terms of historical, cultural, ethnic and geographical realities and narratives.","PeriodicalId":194563,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" 42","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138619297","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Fashioning Iceland’s past in the present: An example of (dis)connections of traditional dress in the Arctic 将冰岛的过去融入现在：北极地区传统服饰（不）联系的一个例子
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2023-12-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00065_1
Anna Karen Unnsteins, Karl Aspelund, Kristinn Schram
{"title":"Fashioning Iceland’s past in the present: An example of (dis)connections of traditional dress in the Arctic","authors":"Anna Karen Unnsteins, Karl Aspelund, Kristinn Schram","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00065_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00065_1","url":null,"abstract":"While a version of Icelandic heritage is exhibited in modern fashion, the imagery is a recent invention without specific historical context. Yet, centuries-old outfits with accompanying components that form the canon of Icelandic women’s national dress are well-established cultural elements. There are three categories of national dress that are instantly recognizable and have well-defined variations of national dress that figure more than ever in formal events and celebrations. However, these do not seem to be referenced in designers’ efforts to create distinctly Icelandic and Arctic imagery through fashionable clothing. Revealing how this appears and why may provide clues to what prompts similar disconnects in other Arctic communities and small-group cultures in which vivid national dress iconography is separated from fashionable apparel. We reveal this separation through fieldwork and interviews conducted in 2021 and 2022 in Reykjavík and online, a look at historical paths of national dress, an examination of cultural underpinnings and attitudes, and references to Jean Baudrillard’s theory on the evolution of symbols in society. We illustrate the gravitational pull of ritualistic contexts that effectively distance national dress from designed fashion. We follow the development of Iceland’s iconic ‘Lady of the Mountain’ and her dress, observing how their emergence and eventual fusing removed them and their symbolic presence from the day-to-day world of fashionable apparel.","PeriodicalId":194563,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" 5","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138613247","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Arctic childhood in data-driven culture: Wearable technology and children’s right to privacy in Finland 数据驱动文化中的北极童年：可穿戴技术与芬兰儿童的隐私权
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2023-12-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00067_1
Annamari Vänskä, Sini Mickelsson, Daria Morozova, Heidi Härkönen, Olga Gurova, Elina Pirjatanniemi
{"title":"Arctic childhood in data-driven culture: Wearable technology and children’s right to privacy in Finland","authors":"Annamari Vänskä, Sini Mickelsson, Daria Morozova, Heidi Härkönen, Olga Gurova, Elina Pirjatanniemi","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00067_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00067_1","url":null,"abstract":"The article discusses the definition of ‘Arctic childhood’: how it affects the ideal of childhood in the Arctic countries while differentiating it from understandings of childhood in more temperate climates. Arctic childhood offers novel viewpoints to the concept of childhood. It grants agency to the non-human world: environment, weather and design solutions such as clothes and wearable technology. It also highlights how these shape the concept of childhood in the Arctic and beyond. The article focuses on wearable technology, which brings new legal issues to considerations of childhood in data-driven culture. The central argument is two-fold. As design solutions, wearable technology may preserve the ideal of the active child, essential to Arctic and Finnish childhoods. Legally, however, there are some issues: since wearable technology is designed to bring forth and share with others the vital functions of the child’s body, it raises concerns about children’s fundamental right to privacy and data protection. By bringing together fashion studies and the doctrinal study of law, and by using wearable technology as an example, the article argues that multidisciplinary approaches are needed when new technologies designed to track and monitor individuals are offered to minors in the name of staying healthy.","PeriodicalId":194563,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" 441","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138610826","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Identity and cultural expression in Greenlandic fashion1 格陵兰时装中的身份认同和文化表达1
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2023-12-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00063_1
Rosannguaq Rossen
{"title":"Identity and cultural expression in Greenlandic fashion1","authors":"Rosannguaq Rossen","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00063_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00063_1","url":null,"abstract":"The West Greenlandic national dress represents one of many aspects of Greenlandic identity and culture and is being used in contemporary fashion designs. Young Greenlanders are branding themselves in the media through fashion and are proud to wear distinctive signs of ‘Greenlandicness’. However, the incorporation of ‘sacred’ and cultural symbols, such as elements from the national costume, into fashion statements is problematic. Public disputes for and against changes to the perceived traditional symbols will form the basis of the empirical analysis. Will changing elements within the culture imply an impure culture and a weaker Greenlandicness? Fashion seems to be an important platform for negotiating identity, as it makes room for mixing elements and for challenging the essential dichotomy of purity and impurity, instead of placing Greenlandic identity and culture in a straitjacket of normative perceptions of tradition, essence and reification.","PeriodicalId":194563,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" 869","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138610520","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Redesigning cultural identity in Euro-Arctic Russia 重新设计俄罗斯欧洲-北极地区的文化特性
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2023-12-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00064_1
Ekaterina Sharova
{"title":"Redesigning cultural identity in Euro-Arctic Russia","authors":"Ekaterina Sharova","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00064_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00064_1","url":null,"abstract":"The starting point for this article is The Living North project conducted by the non-governmental organization Arctic Art Institute in Arkhangelsk, Russia, in 2019–21. The project team digitized archives of the crafts factory, Belomorskie Uzory (‘The White Sea patterns’), for the first time and through art-based participatory research revealed the existing challenges of the industry, communicating marginalized knowledge and creating new social choreographies. The case of reviving tacit knowledge and re-creating narratives in the context of the hypercentralized knowledge production of Euro-Arctic Russia is discussed in the article. The rapid modernization of the first half of the twentieth century led to radical changes of everyday life, including the disappearance of tacit knowledge, erosion of memory and cultural identity of northerners. In 1968, during Khrushchev’s ‘ottepel’, a crafts factory Belomorskie Uzory opened in Arkhangelsk with the goal to document and restore decaying crafts and fashion design from Euro-Arctic Russia. In the article, I discuss the case of the factory in light of decolonial and ecofeminist theory with a particular focus on fashion. The project shows that art-based participatory research strategies stimulate dialogical relations between the factory and young fashion designers and artists, leading to the revitalization of communities in the North.","PeriodicalId":194563,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" 39","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138613814","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Adoption and adaptation in Iñupiat fashion: Past and present 伊努皮亚时尚的采用与适应：过去和现在
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2023-12-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00066_1
Janne Beate Reitan
{"title":"Adoption and adaptation in Iñupiat fashion: Past and present","authors":"Janne Beate Reitan","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00066_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00066_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article presents and discusses the development of Iñupiat (North Alaskan Inuit) fashion of atikłuk (‘inner garment’) and atigi (‘outerwear’) over time, with a focus on adoption and adaptation, linked to the concept of cultural authentication. It is based on the author’s fieldwork in the winter of 1997 and the summer of 1998, which included participant observations and interviews with seamstresses from the Iñupiat villages of Kaktovik and Utqiaġvik at the North Slope of Alaska, literature reviews, observations from museums and archival photos. The second part of this article involves a case study that focuses on a young Iñupiat trans woman and her mother in 2022. Together they designed a new fabric (instead of leather) for an atikłuk. The case show how she adopts the contemporary Iñupiat garment and adapts it to her own style.","PeriodicalId":194563,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":"96 6","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138623096","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Zygmunt Bauman and the unbearable lightness of fashion 齐格蒙特·鲍曼和时尚中难以忍受的轻盈
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2023-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00053_1
K. Jones
{"title":"Zygmunt Bauman and the unbearable lightness of fashion","authors":"K. Jones","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00053_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00053_1","url":null,"abstract":"The works of Zygmunt Bauman (1925–2017) are necessary and worthwhile to include in the fashion studies canon. Though Bauman’s concept of ‘liquid modernity’ is regularly cited by scholars in critical fashion studies, his broader works have yet to be explicated in the same way as other giants of thought such as Bourdieu and Barthes. I posit that Bauman has more to offer than a passing mention; his accessible writings provide a clear-eyed assessment of the perils of being human today, providing fashion studies scholars a critical lens through which fashion as commodity and concept can be assessed in our contemporary context. This explication offers an appraisal and reframing of Bauman through application in the scholarly domains of fashion systems analysis, fashion and identity studies and sustainable fashion discourses. I engage Bauman’s key contemporary works to broaden the limited reading of him in the field. I argue Bauman’s work and fashion studies have a potentially mutually beneficial relationship, each challenging and enhancing the other when engaged in the exploration of everyday life in the twenty-first century.","PeriodicalId":194563,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":"2 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"115701142","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
New femininities and self-making in contemporary Chinese beauty influencing 新女性主义与自我塑造对当代中国美的影响
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2023-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00054_1
Qingyue Sun
{"title":"New femininities and self-making in contemporary Chinese beauty influencing","authors":"Qingyue Sun","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00054_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00054_1","url":null,"abstract":"With the rapid development of industrialized social media influencing, China’s beauty economy has spawned legions of beauty influencers. These influencers and their social media production have formed a complex and seemingly contradictory assemblage of beauty ideals in the contemporary Chinese social media landscape. Amidst this assemblage are circulating an array of emergent femininities, a wave of nationalism and a suspiciously neo-liberal-looking subjectivity. Through a qualitative analysis of 383 Weibo posts of the top Chinese beauty influencers, this article reveals that these influencers and their social media productions play a crucial role in producing new conceptualizations of beauty in China (and beyond). Their cultural creations seem to empower women through active beauty interventions and body makeovers, but essentially fall into the trap of neo-liberal capitalism and perpetuate problematic beauty notions in tandem with local patriarchal gender scripts.","PeriodicalId":194563,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":"2 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"131440370","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Fat Fashion: The Thin Ideal and the Segregation of Plus-Size Bodies, Paolo Volonté (2022) 《肥胖时尚:瘦的理想和大码身材的隔离》，保罗·沃尔龙特(2022)
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2023-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00059_5
Scott William Schiavone
{"title":"Fat Fashion: The Thin Ideal and the Segregation of Plus-Size Bodies, Paolo Volonté (2022)","authors":"Scott William Schiavone","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00059_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00059_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Fat Fashion: The Thin Ideal and the Segregation of Plus-Size Bodies, Paolo Volonté (2022)\u0000 London: Bloomsbury, 226 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-1-35012-692-3, p/bk, £23.99","PeriodicalId":194563,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":"23 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126254884","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Trans YouTubers and DIY undergarments: ‘Queer-and-trans-world-making-and-sharing’ within the fashion system’s informal economies 跨性别youtube用户和DIY内衣:时尚系统非正式经济中的“酷儿和跨世界制作和分享”
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2023-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00055_1
Kyra G. Streck, Kelly L. Reddy-Best
{"title":"Trans YouTubers and DIY undergarments: ‘Queer-and-trans-world-making-and-sharing’ within the fashion system’s informal economies","authors":"Kyra G. Streck, Kelly L. Reddy-Best","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00055_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00055_1","url":null,"abstract":"In our research we explore how do-it-yourself (DIY) gender-affirming undergarments worn on the lower torso are made and distributed and the broader context of these objects in relation to influencer identity, trans experiences, activism and personal storytelling on YouTube in the twenty-first century. To engage in action-oriented research as part of our approach, we also developed a corresponding mounted fashion exhibition that we co-curated with three of the YouTubers featured in the research. To achieve our purpose, we drew upon multiple qualitative methods. We analysed YouTube videos using a comparative method, conducted oral histories with the YouTube content creators and engaged in a curatorial process to produce a co-curated fashion exhibition with the oral history interviewees. The trans YouTubers in our research engaged in what we refer to as queer-and-trans-world-making-and-sharing. That is, there was an overarching emphasis on making DIY tutorial videos via YouTube and the actual garments for themselves, but then also creating and sharing this knowledge with others so they, too, could experience and access happiness and joy in how they fashion their identity through dress.","PeriodicalId":194563,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":"15 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"123342934","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
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