{"title":"From skin to presence: Drawing and making as a process of creation in costume design","authors":"Filipa Malva","doi":"10.1386/scp_00061_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/scp_00061_1","url":null,"abstract":"My research project, Drawing and Performance: Creating Scenography, looked at the way drawing is used during the creative process of scenography within the performance arts. It was my intention to analyse and reflect upon the artistic and pragmatic relationship scenographers\u0000 have with drawing as a device for the creation of space and time of performance, and also as mediator between the bodies of actors or dancers onstage and our drawing pages. In this article I discuss examples from this research project and from my own practice where costume sculpted during\u0000 the process of rehearsal came to generate a specific presence onstage and consequently moulded the performance. I argue that this working method expands the function of drawing in the creative process of the costume designer by applying it as part of a back and forth process of analysis and\u0000 composition which includes the designer’s experience of movement and touch. With this in mind this article follows three examples of Portuguese costume designers who use drawing extensively in their practice: Clara Bento, Claudia Ribeiro and my own.","PeriodicalId":177562,"journal":{"name":"Studies in Costume & Performance","volume":"41 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"114756285","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Reflections in water: Displaying political agency through costume, performance and video","authors":"Melanie Sarantou, Satu Miettinen","doi":"10.1386/scp_00063_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/scp_00063_1","url":null,"abstract":"This research revisits individual and collaborative artistic processes to articulate the combination of creative skills to produce and document research outcomes. Various creative processes, such as costume-making, performance-making, artistic video, photo documentation and editing,\u0000 came about under particular circumstances and with different objectives. These processes, all with their unique and embedded stories, were brought together in a collaborative research outcome to create an original visual story with layered meanings ‐ the video titled ‘Merelle\u0000 (To the see)’ (Miettinen 2021). This video illustrates the connections between the different creative processes, and the memories, bodies, places and environments attached to them. However, some of the places and environments in which the costumes, performance and video came about were\u0000 also implicit, only to be revealed in the research dissemination. The selected methodology entailed narrative accounts, reflexive research and collaborative visual analysis. The data were collected through storytelling and note taking of the events that enabled was re-narration of the three\u0000 artistic processes described in this article. The reflexive research methodology and analysis drew on visual data from photography and the video to explore the outcomes of the collaborative work.","PeriodicalId":177562,"journal":{"name":"Studies in Costume & Performance","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"130654217","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Showstoppers! Spectacular Costumes from Stage and Screen, curated by the Costume Industry Coalition : New York City, 5 August‐5 December 2021","authors":"Mateja Fajt","doi":"10.1386/scp_00071_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/scp_00071_5","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":177562,"journal":{"name":"Studies in Costume & Performance","volume":"33 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122617927","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Game of Thrones: The Costumes, Michele Clapton and Gina McIntyre (2019)","authors":"H. Davidson","doi":"10.1386/scp_00067_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/scp_00067_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Game of Thrones: The Costumes, Michele Clapton and Gina McIntyre (2019)San Rafael, CA and London: Insight Editions, 440 pp.,ISBN 978-1-68383-530-1, h/bk, US$75.00","PeriodicalId":177562,"journal":{"name":"Studies in Costume & Performance","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"117053509","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Decolonizing costume: Unpicking ballet’s racist and colonialist stereotypes through Sidney Nolan’s costumes for The Rite of Spring (1962)","authors":"E. Collett","doi":"10.1386/scp_00058_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/scp_00058_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article attempts to unpick colonialist and racist stereotypes in costume, in an effort to think through decolonization in relation to costume design and research. Examining Sidney Nolan’s costumes for the Royal Ballet’s 1962 production of The Rite of Spring,\u0000 which misappropriated Australian First Nations cultures for visual (and choreographic) inspiration, the primary aims are to articulate the complexities of the production’s oppressive colonial roots, and to situate it within the wider context of recent challenges from scholarship and\u0000 discourse around traditional ballet that have reframed it as a potentially racist art form. The discussion positions the costumed dancers from this production in relation to problematic binaries articulated more recently in scholarship around modern dance. A consideration of the damaging perpetuation\u0000 of stereotypes the costumes propagate offers a way of understanding the ongoing impact of ballet’s colonialist history, and the role costume (and those who create it) plays in this.","PeriodicalId":177562,"journal":{"name":"Studies in Costume & Performance","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"131151359","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}