Patrik Berta, Michail Michailov, Dávid Kaško, Jan Gajdošík, Michal Běhounek, Jiří Baláš
{"title":"Validity and normative scores of finger flexor strength and endurance tests estimated from a large sample of female and male climbers.","authors":"Patrik Berta, Michail Michailov, Dávid Kaško, Jan Gajdošík, Michal Běhounek, Jiří Baláš","doi":"10.1080/02640414.2024.2449316","DOIUrl":"10.1080/02640414.2024.2449316","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Recent reviews have highlighted conflicting findings regarding the validity of finger flexor strength and endurance tests in sport climbers, often due to small sample sizes and low ecological validity of the tests used. To address these gaps, 185 male and 122 female climbers underwent maximal finger flexor strength, intermittent and continuous finger flexor endurance, and the finger hang tests in a sport-specific setting to determine the predictive and concurrent validity of these tests. The finger hang test showed the strongest relationship to climbing ability for both sexes (<i>R</i> ≈ 0.75). However, despite its widespread use as an endurance test, the finger hang was found to be primarily determined by finger strength, explaining 65% and 80% of the variance in males and females, respectively. Finger strength emerged as the dominant factor, explaining the majority of variance in climbing ability (males 68%; females 64%), followed by intermittent endurance (males 28%; females 34%). These findings emphasize finger strength as the primary predictor of climbing ability and highlight the importance of intermittent endurance testing for assessing climbing-specific endurance of the finger flexors. No significant differences were found between male and female climbers in finger flexor strength and endurance when normalized to body mass.</p>","PeriodicalId":17066,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Sports Sciences","volume":" ","pages":"245-255"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2025-02-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142927363","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The effects of different fatigue types on action anticipation and physical performance in high-level volleyball players.","authors":"Ying Yu, Liqing Zhang, Ming-Yang Cheng, Zhijun Liang, Ming Zhang, Fengxue Qi","doi":"10.1080/02640414.2025.2456399","DOIUrl":"10.1080/02640414.2025.2456399","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>This study examined the effects of different fatigue types on action anticipation and physical performance in high-level volleyball players. Twenty-four participants underwent four counterbalanced conditions: 60-min cycling at 60% peak power output, 60-min Stroop task, 60-min cycling at 60% peak power output with Stroop task and 60-min neutral documentary to induce physical fatigue (PF), mental fatigue (MF), dual fatigue (DF) and control group (CG), respectively. Action anticipation (anticipation test and visual search test) and physical performance (countermovement jump, T-test, and spike test) were conducted at baseline, immediately after (Post1), and after 10-min rest (Post2). DF and PF led to significantly lower jump height, T-test completion time, and spiking speed at Post1 and Post2 compared with CG and MF. Compared with PF, DF led to a significant decline in jumping, agility, and spiking performance at Post1 and decreased jumping performance at Post2. MF significantly decreased the reaction time of anticipation test at Post1 compared with CG. Reaction times of visual search test were significantly lower in DF and MF at Post2 compared with CG. It is suggested that PF decreased physical performance, and this is exacerbated in DF. Anticipation performance was affected by MF but not by DF and PF.</p>","PeriodicalId":17066,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Sports Sciences","volume":" ","pages":"323-335"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2025-02-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143007381","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Gregory J H Biddle, Joseph Henson, Melanie J Davies, David Dunstan, Kamlesh Khunti, James A King, Alex V Rowlands, Charlotte L Edwardson, Thomas Yates
{"title":"Acute and chronic effects of an intervention aiming to reduce prolonged sitting on glucose regulation in individuals with dysglycaemia.","authors":"Gregory J H Biddle, Joseph Henson, Melanie J Davies, David Dunstan, Kamlesh Khunti, James A King, Alex V Rowlands, Charlotte L Edwardson, Thomas Yates","doi":"10.1080/02640414.2024.2447660","DOIUrl":"10.1080/02640414.2024.2447660","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Acute studies have consistently demonstrated small-to-medium glycaemic responses to breaking prolonged sitting, yet it is not known whether acute effects are maintained following a period of intervention or whether behavioural interventions lead to sustained benefits. A single arm, 4-week intervention with pre and post \"two-arm\" randomised cross-over conditions, study was conducted to investigate whether reducing prolonged sitting in free-living affects acute and chronic glucose and insulin responses. Adults aged 40-75 years living with overweight or obesity with an elevated HbA1c (5.7-7.5%) underwent four experimental conditions (two prolonged sitting [CON], two sitting with a self-paced light upright movement breaks [LUMB]) in a randomised order. One of each condition was conducted before and after the intervention. A total of 33 participants completed the study. There was no change in sitting or glucose/insulin levels over the 4-week intervention. However, glucose and insulin were reduced acutely in the LUMB conditions compared with CON (glucose [mmol/L]: CON: 5.77 [5.51; 6.02], LUMB: 5.55 [5.30; 5.81], <i>p</i> = 0.006, insulin [mIU/L]: (CON: 77.70 [61.58; 93.83], LUMB: 61.28 [51.19; 71.38], <i>p</i> = <0.001); these responses did not change over time. In conclusion, the intervention did not lead to reduced sitting time or chronic changes to postprandial metabolism.</p>","PeriodicalId":17066,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Sports Sciences","volume":" ","pages":"223-233"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2025-02-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143066051","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Sandy M B Wilson, Martin I Jones, Stephen B Draper, John K Parker
{"title":"Irregular sleep/wake patterns in student-athletes exposed to early morning training.","authors":"Sandy M B Wilson, Martin I Jones, Stephen B Draper, John K Parker","doi":"10.1080/02640414.2025.2452726","DOIUrl":"10.1080/02640414.2025.2452726","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>This study aimed to examine the sleep parameters and sleep/wake regularity of a cohort of student-athletes who start training between 06:30 and 07:00. Twenty-one male Rugby Union players, aged 21 ± 2 years and competing at a national level, were assessed using actigraphy over two weeks, and the Athlete Sleep Screening Questionnaire (ASSQ). Sleep/wake regularity was calculated using the Sleep Regularity Index (SRI). Wilcoxon signed-rank tests showed that nocturnal sleep preceding morning training had a significantly shorter sleep duration (1.8 hr, <i>r</i> = .67), and advanced sleep onset (0.9 hr, <i>r</i> = .50) and sleep offset times (3.2 hr, <i>r</i> = .85) compared to nocturnal sleep preceding free days. The variability of training demands resulted in an inconsistent sleep pattern between consecutive days, resulting in a median SRI score of 67.0 (interquartile range: 17.0). Pearson correlations revealed that lower SRI was significantly associated with a higher daily sleep duration including naps (<i>r</i> = -.62), delayed sleep onset (<i>r</i> = -.50) and sleep offset (<i>r</i> = -.60), and a later chronotype assessed using the ASSQ (<i>r</i> = .52). These findings indicate that early morning training is a factor contributing to irregular sleep/wake patterns in student-athletes, and where feasible should be scheduled at an alternative time.</p>","PeriodicalId":17066,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Sports Sciences","volume":" ","pages":"256-265"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2025-02-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143007378","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pedro Acosta-Manzano, Marta Flor-Alemany, Mireille N M Van Poppel, Irene Coll-Risco, Víctor Segura-Jiménez, Kristin I Stanford, Virginia A Aparicio
{"title":"Concurrent exercise training during pregnancy is related to more favourable maternal lipid levels when IL-8 increases.","authors":"Pedro Acosta-Manzano, Marta Flor-Alemany, Mireille N M Van Poppel, Irene Coll-Risco, Víctor Segura-Jiménez, Kristin I Stanford, Virginia A Aparicio","doi":"10.1080/02640414.2025.2456384","DOIUrl":"10.1080/02640414.2025.2456384","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>It is unclear how exercise-induced stimuli affect and translate into immunometabolic adaptations during pregnancy. We previously found that exercise influences maternal-foetal circulating cytokines (IL-1β, IL-6, IL-8, IL-10, TNF-α). This study investigated i) the influence of an exercise training programme during pregnancy on metabolic markers (glycaemic and lipid markers, and C-reactive protein) in maternal, and cord arterial and venous serum; and ii) whether these cytokines mediated the effects of exercise on metabolic markers. Eighty-eight pregnant women, divided into exercise (<i>n</i> = 44) and control (<i>n</i> = 44) groups, participated in this quasi-experimental study. The exercise group followed a 60-min 3 days/week concurrent (aerobic+resistance) exercise training. Glycaemic and lipid markers and C-reactive protein concentrations, and cytokines levels, were measured at weeks 17 and 34 and birth with standard biochemical methods and Luminex xMAP technology. Overall, exercise did not induce detectable changes in maternal metabolic markers during pregnancy, except for those exercisers whose IL-8 levels increased, where it was related to lower maternal total cholesterol (indirect effect= -9.1; 95% CI= -24.6, -1.1) and low-density lipoprotein-cholesterol gains (-8.9; -21.9, -1.1). This suggests a mechanism by which exercise may optimise lipid metabolism regulation. Moreover, exercise was related to lower cord arterial serum glucose levels. Further research, especially concerning foetal metabolism, is necessary.</p>","PeriodicalId":17066,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Sports Sciences","volume":" ","pages":"308-322"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2025-02-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143189703","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Y C Chen, C Y Cheng, B McNally, J Benn, H Varnom, K Robbins, R S Metcalfe
{"title":"Low and high frequency isometric handgrip exercise training similarly reduce resting blood pressure in young normotensive adults: A randomised controlled trial.","authors":"Y C Chen, C Y Cheng, B McNally, J Benn, H Varnom, K Robbins, R S Metcalfe","doi":"10.1080/02640414.2024.2448638","DOIUrl":"10.1080/02640414.2024.2448638","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>We investigated the effects of low and high frequency isometric handgrip exercise training (IHGT) on resting blood pressure, and the affective/perceptual responses during training. Sixty young normotensive adults were randomised to either a no-intervention control group (CON: <i>n</i> = 20; 12 female) or a group performing either two (LOW: <i>n</i> = 20; 18 female) or four (HIGH: <i>n</i> = 20; 13 female) sessions/week of IHGT for 4 weeks. IHGT involved 4 × 2-min holds at 30% maximal voluntary contraction using the dominant hand. Resting blood pressure was measured before and after training. Affective valence was measured during the first session of each training week. Systolic blood pressure was reduced following both LOW (adjusted mean change [95% CI]: -4.5 [-6.8, -2.2] mmHg) and HIGH (-5.3 [-7.6, -3.0] mmHg) frequency IHGT groups compared to CON (+0.5 [-1.8, 2.8] mmHg; <i>p</i> < 0.01), with no difference between LOW and HIGH. There were no changes in diastolic blood pressure. During the first session, affective valence decreased by 2.5 ± 2.6 units and became negative (lowest affect: -0.75 ± 1.84 units). However, affective responses improved as training progressed. Low and high frequency IHGT similarly reduce resting blood pressure in young normotensive adults. Negative affective responses in the early phase of training improve as the intervention progresses.</p>","PeriodicalId":17066,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Sports Sciences","volume":" ","pages":"234-244"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2025-02-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142927286","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Amy Shelley, Jamie Taylor, Áine MacNamara, Vineet Sajwan, Michael Scriney, Neil McCarthy, Ben Jones, Stephen Behan
{"title":"The impact of high-potential status on progression and conversion within a male rugby union talent system.","authors":"Amy Shelley, Jamie Taylor, Áine MacNamara, Vineet Sajwan, Michael Scriney, Neil McCarthy, Ben Jones, Stephen Behan","doi":"10.1080/02640414.2025.2458357","DOIUrl":"10.1080/02640414.2025.2458357","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>The conversion rate of junior athletes to senior performance is typically used to judge efficiency in talent development. This study aimed to calculate the conversion rate of English academy rugby union players conferred with 'high-potential' 'England Academy Player' status, distinguishing them from their age-matched peers, from academy selection into the Premiership, the elite domestic league. Conversion was calculated overall and between academies, considering when players were conferred high-potential status. In total, 3127 male players were sampled. Players conferred with high-potential status early (prior to achieving a senior contract) accounted for 68.03% of elite debuts and had increased odds of converting compared to other player sub-populations (OR: 5.82, 95% CI: 4.60-7.37). Regression analysis inferred acquiring high-potential status at younger ages increased odds of a Premiership appearance by 2.501. However, delimiting to players achieving senior contracts, players conferred 'high-potential' after accomplishing a senior contract had a greater relative conversion (46.34%) compared to early status players (40.27%). Academy conversion rates and contribution to net development considerably varied (14.63-45.28% and 2.72-12.84%). Findings suggest that whilst high-potential status influences progression, other important factors influence player development. Results demonstrate the need to consider how the specific context of each academy within the talent system influences player development.</p>","PeriodicalId":17066,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Sports Sciences","volume":" ","pages":"348-359"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2025-02-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143256103","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Jerry Prosper Medernach, Julian Henz, Daniel Memmert, Xavier Sanchez
{"title":"Decision-making and climbing performance under time constraints in Olympic bouldering.","authors":"Jerry Prosper Medernach, Julian Henz, Daniel Memmert, Xavier Sanchez","doi":"10.1080/02640414.2025.2459998","DOIUrl":"10.1080/02640414.2025.2459998","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Kahneman's dual-process model postulates that two systems are involved in decision-making: slow thinking, defined as analytical processing of information, and fast thinking, where decisions emerge from intuitive, automatic responses. Climbers in Olympic bouldering typically engage in slow thinking to interpret movements and explore climbing strategies. However, time constraints imposed by regulations, combined with ineffective decision-making and failed climbing attempts, may compel them to make more intuitive, fast decisions. This study examined climbers' decision-making and bouldering performance under varying time constraints. A total of 48 elite climbers were asked to climb three boulders, each within a different timeframe: four, two, and one minute. Data collection included boulder previewing times, appropriateness of decision-making, completed boulders, climbing attempts, and climbing times. Findings revealed that, as time constraints increased, absolute previewing time decreased, while previewing ratio relative to given time increased. Climbers made better decisions, did more attempts, had longer total climbing times, and were more successful when given time was longer, while relative climbing time increased when time was lower. Findings indicate that increased time constraints negatively affected climbers' strategic behaviour and bouldering performance. This decline in decision-making and performance may be attributed to less time for slow thinking and actual climbing.</p>","PeriodicalId":17066,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Sports Sciences","volume":" ","pages":"402-409"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2025-02-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143066171","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Casey R Appell, Nigel C Jiwan, Yasuki Sekiguchi, Hui-Ying Luk
{"title":"Passive dehydration reduces muscle thickness after resistance exercise.","authors":"Casey R Appell, Nigel C Jiwan, Yasuki Sekiguchi, Hui-Ying Luk","doi":"10.1080/02640414.2025.2456402","DOIUrl":"10.1080/02640414.2025.2456402","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Dehydration-induced increased plasma osmolality (P<sub>osmo</sub>) alters whole body fluid balance which could alter resistance exercise (RE) induced intramuscular (IM) fluid shift.</p><p><strong>Purpose: </strong>The purpose of the current report was to investigate the effect of dehydration on RE-induced change in whole body fluid balance in resistance trained (RT) men.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>Fourteen RT men performed two identical RE sessions, either in a hydrated (EUHY) or dehydrated (DEHY) state induced by a 24 hr fluid restriction. Total body fluid, urine osmolality (U<sub>osmo</sub>), urine specific gravity (USG), P<sub>osmo</sub>, hematocrit (HCT), muscle thickness were measured and plasma volume (%ΔPV) was calculated using HCT.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>A significant (<i>p</i> < 0.050) condition effect was observed for total body fluid and muscle thickness such that EUHY was 2.6% and 13.0% greater than DEHY, respectively. Significant time × condition effects were observed for P<sub>osmo</sub>, U<sub>osmo</sub>, and USG. At all times, EUHY (collapsing for time: P<sub>osmo</sub>: 3.9%; U<sub>osmo</sub>: 133.5%; USG: 1.6%) was lower than DEHY. A significant time effect was observed for %ΔPV. %ΔPV 5 min after RE was -12.5% lower than PRE.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>Dehydration with RE altered whole body fluid balance indicated by greater fluid retention and efflux of IM fluid could at least partly maintain %ΔPV following DEHY in RT men.</p>","PeriodicalId":17066,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Sports Sciences","volume":" ","pages":"336-347"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2025-02-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143046330","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Michal Grabowiecki, Lorenzo Rum, Luca Laudani, Giuseppe Vannozzi
{"title":"Effects of an external load on anticipatory mechanisms of handstand walking initiation in experienced gymnasts.","authors":"Michal Grabowiecki, Lorenzo Rum, Luca Laudani, Giuseppe Vannozzi","doi":"10.1080/02640414.2025.2458995","DOIUrl":"10.1080/02640414.2025.2458995","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Anticipatory postural adjustments (APAs) are responsible for a successful first step execution in handstand walking. This study evaluates gymnasts' ability to adapt their APAs and stepping parameters in response to adding/removing an external load over repeated handstand walking initiation trials. Eighteen gymnasts performed five handstand walking initiation trials without load (PRE), eight trials with an external load (LOAD) and five trials with removed load (POST). Force platforms and a motion capture system were used to quantify mechanical parameters from the anticipatory phase and the stepping phase. During the first LOAD trial, APAs did not change, however, the step height decreased by 0.56 cm compared to PRE (<i>p</i> = 0.007). During the second and third LOAD trials, the mediolateral center of pressure APAs increased by 2.0 cm (<i>p</i> = 0.01) and 2.3 cm (<i>p</i> = 0.01) compared to the first LOAD trial, while the step parameters returned to baseline. The removed load did not change APAs, while the step parameters were initially altered and then returned to baseline. Results show gymnasts' ability to modify their APAs over repeated trials to adapt to an external load, enabling them to initiate accurate forward steps. Training exercises should target handstand walking preparatory mechanisms for a smooth transition between handstand and stepping.</p>","PeriodicalId":17066,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Sports Sciences","volume":" ","pages":"370-380"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2025-02-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143059204","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}