Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion最新文献_第4页

Green your groin: Sustainability, men’s underwear and the wild 绿色你的腹股沟:可持续发展，男士内衣和野生

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2021-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00039_1

J. Allan

引用次数: 1

Fashioning Muslim men: Appraising professional Saudi men’s attitudes towards the thobe 塑造穆斯林男性:评价沙特职业男性对世界的态度

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2019-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00008_1

C. Decoursey

{"title":"Fashioning Muslim men: Appraising professional Saudi men’s attitudes towards the thobe","authors":"C. Decoursey","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00008_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00008_1","url":null,"abstract":"The Muslim man’s shirt-dress, or thobe, is a popular form of dress in the global Muslim community. Attention to Muslim clothing has most often been to its associated ideology. As a fashionable garment worn across many regions of the world, the thobe has received little attention\u0000 within the fashion industry or from fashion scholars. This study used Appraisal methods to analyse the subjective attitudes of 79 professional Saudi men in describing their positive and negative views of the thobe. Attitudes were clearly positive overall, realized in engagement clauses reflecting\u0000 a reserved linguistic style, and showing the collectivist and uncertainty-avoidant social values characteristic of educated Saudi men. The reserved nature of the Saudi male style means that positive results may be read as significantly more positive than subcategory frequencies would otherwise\u0000 suggest. Frequently realized judgements of social sanction indicate that participants enjoyed the thobe because it allowed them to participate in shared national and religious identities. Frequently realized judgements of social esteem indicate that they find it more practical and comfortable\u0000 than western wear. Participants identified a variety of elements of design that are desirable and significant to them in a thobe. They distinguished different kinds of thobes based on their social function and context.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"31 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126769686","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Queering the stitch: Fashion, masculinity and the postsocialist subject 古怪的缝线:时尚，男子气概和后社会主义主题

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2019-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00005_1

G. Roberts

{"title":"Queering the stitch: Fashion, masculinity and the postsocialist subject","authors":"G. Roberts","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00005_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00005_1","url":null,"abstract":"In my article, I analyse some of the ways in which Gosha Rubchinskiy, Demna Gvasalia and Lotta Volkova might be said to ‘queer’ masculinity. I draw parallels between their work and the modernist, utopian, Constructivist project of Soviet fashion designers of the 1920s such\u0000 as Varvara Stepanova and Lyubov’ Popova. Most importantly, both groups of artists share a desire to organize their fashion practice within a broader ideological project. At the heart of their respective projects is a fundamental challenge to conventional notions of gender in fashion,\u0000 and in the fashion industry. In both cases, the ‘queering’ of gender norms, distinctions and hierarchies, both on and off the catwalk, is designed to produce a radical transformation of the relationship between the fashioned object and the fashionable, consuming subject. As far\u0000 as today’s post-Soviet fashion designers are concerned, by the way in which they either queer masculinity or perform their own, queer brand of masculinity, they produce a new, utopian subject. Far from being the antithesis of the Constructivist project, then, this post-socialist utopian\u0000 body can be seen as constituting perhaps its most spectacular realization to date.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129028269","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 4

The negotiation of masculinity and identity through clothing choices among Russian speakers in Canada 加拿大俄语使用者通过服装选择对男子气概和身份的协商

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2019-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00007_1

Alla Myzelev

{"title":"The negotiation of masculinity and identity through clothing choices among Russian speakers in Canada","authors":"Alla Myzelev","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00007_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00007_1","url":null,"abstract":"Using information interviews conducted with Russian-speaking men living in Toronto and vicinity this article interrogates the understanding of fashion among immigrants from former Soviet Union and Russia. Using a hypothesis that Russian-speaking men conceptualize their male identity\u0000 differently from both their Canadian counterparts and Russian men living in Russia this article investigates how fashion choices affect negotiation of identity of these men in Canada. Using art historical methodologies, historical analysis and qualitative research I look at the interviewee’s\u0000 contributions as a reflection of masculinity in transitions assuming that the forming of masculine identity is a constantly changing process. In each society the hegemonic model of masculinity categorizes groups of men in relation to each other through ‘normalizing’ the definition\u0000 of masculinity and defining its standards and proper manifestations. This is particularly true of societies where the military culture has an increased presence and an important role to play. Contemporary Russia epitomizes the commanding and rigid nature of the masculinist regime where hegemonic\u0000 masculinity is firmly established and thoroughly institutionalized.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"29 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"121168791","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Reconciling hyperconsumerism and sustainability in the island ecosystem: A photo essay of men’s street fashion in Honolulu 协调岛屿生态系统中的超级消费主义和可持续性:火奴鲁鲁男性街头时尚的摄影随笔

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2019-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00011_1

A. Pohlmann

引用次数: 1

The queer coat: Konstantin Goncharov’s fashion, Russian masculinity and queer world building 酷儿外套:康斯坦丁·贡恰罗夫的时尚、俄罗斯男子气概和酷儿世界的构建

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2019-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00006_1

Vlad Strukov

引用次数: 5

Fashioning the ‘Performance Man’: Costumes and contexts of Andrey Bartenev 塑造“表演男人”:安德烈·巴尔捷涅夫的服装和背景

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2019-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00003_1

Olga B. Vainshtein

引用次数: 1

Between the gangster and the country gentleman: Male fashion during the volatile 1990s 在黑帮和乡村绅士之间:动荡的90年代的男性时尚

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2019-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00004_1

H. Goscilo

引用次数: 0

Fashion parades – for men only: Multiple tailor Hepworths, designer Hardy Amies and the marketing of men’s suits in Britain in the 1960s 时尚大游行——仅限男士:20世纪60年代，英国多名裁缝赫普沃斯、设计师哈迪·艾米斯以及男士西装的市场营销

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2019-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00010_1

D. Sprecher

{"title":"Fashion parades – for men only: Multiple tailor Hepworths, designer Hardy Amies and the marketing of men’s suits in Britain in the 1960s","authors":"D. Sprecher","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00010_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00010_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article will examine the use of male fashion shows as a marketing and promotional tool by British high street multiple tailor Hepworths in the 1960s as part of their design collaboration with women’s fashion designer and couturier Hardy Amies. The partnership successfully\u0000 brought the concept of the branded designer label to British men for the first time and was a major initiative for the menswear industry as it highlighted and consolidated a design ethos which strongly emphasized men’s fashion. Drawing on a wide range of primary source material including\u0000 oral history interviews with two male models who worked for Hepworths and Amies; object studies of surviving garments; and film and images of the shows, this article will explore the significant and innovative approach to selling men’s fashionable tailoring taken by this mid-market menswear\u0000 company. It also provides a broader understanding of the history of men’s fashion during this period, a narrative which is dominated by the concept of the peacock revolution, by demonstrating Hepworths’ important contribution to everyday men’s fashion in post-Second World\u0000 War Britain.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"54 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"123686731","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1

Gen-Y men and ‘Fast Fashion’: Who values it? y世代男性和“快时尚”:谁重视它?

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2019-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00009_1

Jihyun Sung, Hongjoo Woo

引用次数: 1