Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion最新文献

New perspectives on men’s underwear 男式内衣的新视角

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-08-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00055_2

S. Cole, J. Allan

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‘Impossibly erotic things’: On men’s underwear in Brief Encounters by Suzanne Forster “不可思议的情色之物”:苏珊娜·福斯特在《短暂邂逅》一书中论男性内衣

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-08-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00060_1

J. Allan

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A casual obsession: Inside the British Sock Fetish Council 一个偶然的痴迷:英国恋袜癖委员会内部

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-08-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00059_1

Andrew Groves

{"title":"A casual obsession: Inside the British Sock Fetish Council","authors":"Andrew Groves","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00059_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00059_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article interrogates the positioning of socks as a culturally transgressive garment by football casuals through a case study of the British Sock Fetish Council (BSFC). While most studies contextualize casuals within a discourse of hooliganism and violence, their use of dress as\u0000 a means of negotiating shared masculine identities remains under-researched. Founded in 2011, the BSFC quickly grew to over 1000 card-carrying members, holding meets at Newcastle, Manchester, Birmingham and London, as well as at football matches throughout the United Kingdom. Within the BSFC,\u0000 the term ‘fetish’ is not used to denote a sexual predilection by an almost entirely heterosexual community. Instead, it acknowledges the members’ obsession with clothing and highlights the sub-textual tensions inherent in their individual and collective practices. The author\u0000 was an active participant within the BSFC, witnessing first-hand the community’s development through the online dissemination of highly constructed, self-generated imagery, featuring colourful, patterned socks juxtaposed with rare trainers. This article explores the self-reflexive use\u0000 of social media to construct group practices and provides insights into how socks were instrumental in establishing consensus on inclusive and hybrid masculine identities within this community.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129211753","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Undressing masculinity: An exploratory study on men’s embodied engagement with underwear 脱衣男子气概:男性内衣体现参与的探索性研究

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-08-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00058_1

Johnathan Clancy, Ben Barry

{"title":"Undressing masculinity: An exploratory study on men’s embodied engagement with underwear","authors":"Johnathan Clancy, Ben Barry","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00058_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00058_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article shares findings from an exploratory study on the relationship between men’s embodied engagement with underwear and their practices of masculinity. Drawing on wardrobe interviews with nine men and object analyses of their underwear, we investigate how men understand\u0000 the role of underwear in their lives, how they shift their underwear choices in different social contexts and how they experience their bodies through underwear. Our participants developed emotional bonds with their underwear, but their engagements with these items were restricted by gendered\u0000 social pressures and boundaries. We argue that men use underwear as ‘manhood acts’ to provide themselves with comfort and confidence to navigate everyday life and, ultimately, shore up and affirm hegemonic masculinity. This article contributes to men’s fashion scholarship\u0000 on underwear by introducing the context of everyday dress practices to the existing focus on branding and advertising images. We encourage researchers to build upon our study on men’s underwear by engaging participants whose demographics expand beyond our sample of primarily heterosexual,\u0000 cisgender men who were under 35 years of age.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"69 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122294229","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1

‘[Selling]’: Gender capital in the commerce of men’s underwear on Reddit “(销售)”:Reddit男式内衣交易中的性别资本

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-08-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00057_1

Steven L. Dashiell

{"title":"‘[Selling]’: Gender capital in the commerce of men’s underwear on Reddit","authors":"Steven L. Dashiell","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00057_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00057_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article looks at the discursive values of concepts in the homosocial attraction of underwear to men. The Reddit space ‘r/underwear’ is a locale where men can buy and sell underwear from others. Rather than the selling of unused or unwanted products, a principal focus\u0000 of the space is the selling of used underwear. I examine the discursive elements that occur on the page, and how the sellers work to present the underwear for the presumed purpose of selling them ‐ discussing how these actions reinforce a sense of gender capital. There is a clear provocativeness\u0000 in the ads, where the purpose is to sell the underwear and demonstrate the masculinity of the seller. Further, the heightened sense of masculinity is provided by the descriptive terms, given the use of concepts such as ‘musky’, ‘sweaty’ and ‘cum’ to reinforce\u0000 the used nature of the underwear. I speculate that the choice of words serve as a reinforcement of the outward manhood of the seller, relating a ‘tough’ masculinity even though the selling of underwear is a homoerotic venture. I note how there is a sense of ‘selling masculinity’\u0000 through the gender capital linked to one’s underwear, adding to conversations of the symbolic value of manhood.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"32 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"132446029","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Gussied up tighty-whities: On decoration, stains and exchange 紧身衣:关于装饰、污渍和交换

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-08-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00056_1

Théo Bignon

{"title":"Gussied up tighty-whities: On decoration, stains and exchange","authors":"Théo Bignon","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00056_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00056_1","url":null,"abstract":"Due to the homoerotic undertones of male underwear ad campaigns and their representations of sexualized bodies, male underwear and their packaging are formative objects in the realization of one’s same-sex desire. Underwear often projects a gay male gaze and becomes a symbolic\u0000 object charged with ethos, desire and shame. In this article, I expand on my own relationship and encounters with this formative object, informed by this broader landscape of representations. I present projects from my fibre-based art practice that consists of the transformation and embellishment\u0000 of male underwear. I contextualize the act of hand-embellishing a mass-produced object as a powerful agent for adaptation and appropriation, and I explore the potential to formally queer this normative object. Finally, I mention a project in which I receive worn and stained male underwear\u0000 that I embroider on before sending them back to their owner. Accompanied by conversations with their owners, I trace individuals’ unique and similar relationship with this object. I argue that these different creative practices, which hand-alter, adapt or re-create the underwear, interrupt\u0000 normative consumption cycles and misuse of undergarment functionality and can create a space ‘for us’.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"114275504","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

‘Serafina’s got no drawers’ and nor does anyone else: The absence of undergarments in the Legman/Hugill chanteys “塞拉菲娜没有内裤”，其他人也没有:Legman/Hugill的广告词里没有内衣

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-08-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00061_1

Jessica Floyd

{"title":"‘Serafina’s got no drawers’ and nor does anyone else: The absence of undergarments in the Legman/Hugill chanteys","authors":"Jessica Floyd","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00061_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00061_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article investigates chanteys (sailing work songs) provided by chantey singer and collector Stan Hugill, contained within Gershon Legman’s unpublished manuscript of erotic folksong. Throughout, I attend to the spectre of underwear and how its absence signifies the loss of\u0000 power both in terms of erotic action within the songs but also specifically in terms of cultural experiences, present on land, that divested the sailing man of masculine agency and authority. I read underwear as capturing the qualities of castration anxiety identified by Judith Bulter,\u0000 and the erasure of such coverings, in these songs, forces these figures to haunt the margins of the text, ushering readings of other constraining and castrating realities that attended the sailor. Underwear is the object that stands in the way, binding up and symbolically castrating the male\u0000 character, rendering him incapable of satisfying his heteronormative duties. Throughout the Victorian era, there were other cultural realities that ‘got in the way’ or impacted the sailor in his presentation of masculine self, and I contend that absent underwear captures such castrating\u0000 potentials as the change in domestic space, the move from sail to steam power and also the impact of cultural narratives that sometimes barred sailors from gaining employment and meeting their breadwinning expectations.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"28 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127696738","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Dandy Style: 250 Years of British Men’s Fashion, Shaun Cole and Miles Lambert (eds) (2021) 《丹迪风格:英国男装250年》，肖恩·科尔和迈尔斯·兰伯特编(2021)

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00046_5

Carla-Mae Crookendale

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Black masculinities: Dress, fashion and style as gendered racialized experiences 黑人男子气概:着装、时尚和风格作为性别种族化的经历

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00049_2

Henry Navarro Delgado

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Again the ‘only one’: Edward Enninful, André Leon Talley and the sartorial contours of racialized masculinity in fashion publishing 同样是“独一无二的”:爱德华·恩尼弗(Edward Enninful)、安德烈·莱昂·塔利(andre Leon Talley)，以及时尚出版界种族化的男性气质的剪裁轮廓

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00050_1

Inna Arzumanova

{"title":"Again the ‘only one’: Edward Enninful, André Leon Talley and the sartorial contours of racialized masculinity in fashion publishing","authors":"Inna Arzumanova","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00050_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00050_1","url":null,"abstract":"Journalists have a habit of describing British Vogue editor-in-chief Edward Enninful as ‘unassuming’ or ‘understated’, referring to his personal uniform ‐ black pants, white shirt and dark jacket ‐ as a signifier of his accessibility and\u0000 his politics. This personal style is rendered remarkable in an industry that prioritizes figures who deploy visual excess or else work to shore up the dialogue between fetishism and alienation already endemic to the industry. Furthermore, Enninful’s position as the first Black male editor\u0000 of the publication makes him the cultural heir to André Leon Talley, whose own style is an exercise in using Baroque ornamentation as a way of existing outside of the prohibitive racial imaginary that would claim him, demanding an expansion of what constitutes Black masculinity. In\u0000 this article, I argue that Enninful, who both dialogues with and produces the visual grammars of Black masculinity in fashion, inherits this iconography and its sartorial strategies of racial and gendered transgression, but rejects their deep reliance on the continual, public production of\u0000 the self. Enninful refuses to offer himself up to the industry for easy consumption; he refuses to deploy his own body as a space for the continual production of creative labour. I argue that this withdrawal ‐ of his sartorial self and the performative and material labour that self\u0000 requires ‐ both marks and harnesses a moment of crisis within the traditional fashion industry, importantly enabling an expanded political discourse on racial justice within the contemporary fashion industry.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"12 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"114962883","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0