Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion最新文献

‘Impossibly erotic things’: On men’s underwear in Brief Encounters by Suzanne Forster “不可思议的情色之物”:苏珊娜·福斯特在《短暂邂逅》一书中论男性内衣

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-08-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00060_1

J. Allan

引用次数: 0

A casual obsession: Inside the British Sock Fetish Council 一个偶然的痴迷:英国恋袜癖委员会内部

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-08-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00059_1

Andrew Groves

{"title":"A casual obsession: Inside the British Sock Fetish Council","authors":"Andrew Groves","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00059_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00059_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article interrogates the positioning of socks as a culturally transgressive garment by football casuals through a case study of the British Sock Fetish Council (BSFC). While most studies contextualize casuals within a discourse of hooliganism and violence, their use of dress as\u0000 a means of negotiating shared masculine identities remains under-researched. Founded in 2011, the BSFC quickly grew to over 1000 card-carrying members, holding meets at Newcastle, Manchester, Birmingham and London, as well as at football matches throughout the United Kingdom. Within the BSFC,\u0000 the term ‘fetish’ is not used to denote a sexual predilection by an almost entirely heterosexual community. Instead, it acknowledges the members’ obsession with clothing and highlights the sub-textual tensions inherent in their individual and collective practices. The author\u0000 was an active participant within the BSFC, witnessing first-hand the community’s development through the online dissemination of highly constructed, self-generated imagery, featuring colourful, patterned socks juxtaposed with rare trainers. This article explores the self-reflexive use\u0000 of social media to construct group practices and provides insights into how socks were instrumental in establishing consensus on inclusive and hybrid masculine identities within this community.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129211753","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Gussied up tighty-whities: On decoration, stains and exchange 紧身衣:关于装饰、污渍和交换

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-08-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00056_1

Théo Bignon

{"title":"Gussied up tighty-whities: On decoration, stains and exchange","authors":"Théo Bignon","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00056_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00056_1","url":null,"abstract":"Due to the homoerotic undertones of male underwear ad campaigns and their representations of sexualized bodies, male underwear and their packaging are formative objects in the realization of one’s same-sex desire. Underwear often projects a gay male gaze and becomes a symbolic\u0000 object charged with ethos, desire and shame. In this article, I expand on my own relationship and encounters with this formative object, informed by this broader landscape of representations. I present projects from my fibre-based art practice that consists of the transformation and embellishment\u0000 of male underwear. I contextualize the act of hand-embellishing a mass-produced object as a powerful agent for adaptation and appropriation, and I explore the potential to formally queer this normative object. Finally, I mention a project in which I receive worn and stained male underwear\u0000 that I embroider on before sending them back to their owner. Accompanied by conversations with their owners, I trace individuals’ unique and similar relationship with this object. I argue that these different creative practices, which hand-alter, adapt or re-create the underwear, interrupt\u0000 normative consumption cycles and misuse of undergarment functionality and can create a space ‘for us’.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"114275504","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

‘Serafina’s got no drawers’ and nor does anyone else: The absence of undergarments in the Legman/Hugill chanteys “塞拉菲娜没有内裤”，其他人也没有:Legman/Hugill的广告词里没有内衣

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-08-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00061_1

Jessica Floyd

{"title":"‘Serafina’s got no drawers’ and nor does anyone else: The absence of undergarments in the Legman/Hugill chanteys","authors":"Jessica Floyd","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00061_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00061_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article investigates chanteys (sailing work songs) provided by chantey singer and collector Stan Hugill, contained within Gershon Legman’s unpublished manuscript of erotic folksong. Throughout, I attend to the spectre of underwear and how its absence signifies the loss of\u0000 power both in terms of erotic action within the songs but also specifically in terms of cultural experiences, present on land, that divested the sailing man of masculine agency and authority. I read underwear as capturing the qualities of castration anxiety identified by Judith Bulter,\u0000 and the erasure of such coverings, in these songs, forces these figures to haunt the margins of the text, ushering readings of other constraining and castrating realities that attended the sailor. Underwear is the object that stands in the way, binding up and symbolically castrating the male\u0000 character, rendering him incapable of satisfying his heteronormative duties. Throughout the Victorian era, there were other cultural realities that ‘got in the way’ or impacted the sailor in his presentation of masculine self, and I contend that absent underwear captures such castrating\u0000 potentials as the change in domestic space, the move from sail to steam power and also the impact of cultural narratives that sometimes barred sailors from gaining employment and meeting their breadwinning expectations.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"28 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127696738","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Dandy Style: 250 Years of British Men’s Fashion, Shaun Cole and Miles Lambert (eds) (2021) 《丹迪风格:英国男装250年》，肖恩·科尔和迈尔斯·兰伯特编(2021)

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00046_5

Carla-Mae Crookendale

引用次数: 0

Black masculinities: Dress, fashion and style as gendered racialized experiences 黑人男子气概:着装、时尚和风格作为性别种族化的经历

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00049_2

Henry Navarro Delgado

引用次数: 0

Representation of sustainability in US men’s fashion magazines: A content analysis based exploratory study 可持续性在美国男性时尚杂志中的表现:基于内容分析的探索性研究

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00045_1

Jitong Li

{"title":"Representation of sustainability in US men’s fashion magazines: A content analysis based exploratory study","authors":"Jitong Li","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00045_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00045_1","url":null,"abstract":"This exploratory study aims to investigate the representation of sustainability in US men’s fashion magazines. Specifically, employing quantitative and qualitative content analysis, this study identifies and analyses meanings of sustainability, the companies having sustainable\u0000 practices, the products with sustainable attributes and specific sustainable practices. 41 and seventeen articles related to fashion and sustainability were collected from the two US online men’s fashion magazines, Gentlemen’s Quarterly (GQ) and Esquire, respectively.\u0000 For both magazines, the environmental dimension is more frequently addressed than the social dimension in the articles. Various terms are used to describe the same subject and the two magazines have different preferences when selecting words to present the same issue. For example, GQ\u0000 prefers ‘eco-friendly’, but Esquire picks ‘planet’ when discussing the environmental dimension. Moreover, the concept of sustainability is ambiguous in the two magazines due to overlapped terms and lack of explanation. In both magazines, the most frequently mentioned\u0000 product is footwear. However, GQ tends to introduce sustainable practices concerning solid waste and focus on the luxury sector. Comparably, Esquire focuses more on the environmental impacts of raw material sourcing and the affordable fashion sector. This study contributes to\u0000 the body knowledge of sustainability communication in the men’s fashion sector. Researchers can employ the results to conduct further analysis, such as examining the difference between sustainability representation in magazines and academic studies. Based on the results, companies should\u0000 improve their communication with consumers regarding their sustainable practices.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"13 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"114835672","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Freak to Chic: ‘Gay’ Men in and out of Fashion After Oscar Wilde, Dominic Janes (2021) 《从怪胎到时髦:奥斯卡·王尔德之后“同性恋”的流行与落伍》，多米尼克·詹姆斯(2021)

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00047_5

M. Rothenberg

引用次数: 1

Sustainable development and the aspirational male consumer: Tengri, making the case for sustainable luxury 可持续发展和有抱负的男性消费者:腾日，可持续奢侈品的案例

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2021-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00043_1

Natascha Radclyffe-Thomas

{"title":"Sustainable development and the aspirational male consumer: Tengri, making the case for sustainable luxury","authors":"Natascha Radclyffe-Thomas","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00043_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00043_1","url":null,"abstract":"Luxury is an industry that defines its value through the quality of its raw materials, which fosters creativity, elevates artisanship and relies on brand heritage and local production to underpin the provenance of its products and justify its pricing strategy and, as such, can be considered\u0000 as embodying many of the practices of sustainability. Yet, despite public commitments and pledges for better business, both financial and cultural factors have contributed to a lack of progress in implementing the necessary system changes implied by slow fashion, sustainable development and\u0000 the circular economy. Social enterprises use business to address social and environmental issues. In Tengri’s case, founder Nancy Johnston was inspired by her experiences travelling with Mongolia’s yak herders where she was confronted with the harshness of the nomadic way of life\u0000 and threats to its continuing existence. She was driven to action when she juxtaposed these conditions with the promoted glamour of the luxury fashion industry, which relies on supplies of ingredients from just such workers. This article explores how Tengri combines social and environmental\u0000 awareness with luxury product development incorporating the UN SDGs into a sustainable luxury menswear brand in a virtuous cycle of ethical fashion consumption and production.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"204 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122687474","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

‘All Tee, No Shade’: A manifesto for a subtle critical practice negotiating queer, East Asian masculinities through T-shirts “全t恤，没有阴影”:一种微妙的批判实践宣言，通过t恤来表达酷儿、东亚的男性气质

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2021-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00034_1

Sang Thai

{"title":"‘All Tee, No Shade’: A manifesto for a subtle critical practice negotiating queer, East Asian masculinities through T-shirts","authors":"Sang Thai","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00034_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00034_1","url":null,"abstract":"‘All Tee, No Shade’ is a practice-led research project that explores the use of the men’s T-shirt to challenge and disrupt hegemonic subjectivities that contribute to the marginalization and discrimination of the queer Asian diaspora. Through an exploration of my pilot\u0000 project of the same name, produced as part of the arts programme of Virgin Australian Melbourne Fashion Festival in 2020, I propose that norm-critical design methodologies exploring intersectional experiences of fashion and dress can produce material outcomes that challenge the discrimination\u0000 and oppression associated with compounding conditions of race and sexuality. I use the notion of ‘subtle’ traits as a condition of the East Asian diasporic experience to reveal how race and sexuality might be expressed through fashion production to disrupt conceptions of ‘otherness’.\u0000 This is achieved with T-shirts that have printed graphic configurations that align with contemporary streetwear but with ‘subtle’ signifiers embedded through the signs and lexicons of Asian and queer communities. Using an autoethnographic approach, the work is informed by my past\u0000 fashion design industry experience and reflects on racial and queer marginalization and discrimination through styling and fit. The project contributes to broader discourses aimed at decentralizing dominant narratives in fashion practice and responds to a lack of academic research into diasporic\u0000 Asian experiences of dress and, more specifically, queer diasporic Asian dress.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"348 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122757611","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0