Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion最新文献_第3页

‘Not all socialists dress the same’: Menswear as cultural capital in China “并非所有社会主义者都穿得一样”:男装是中国的文化资本

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2021-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00040_1

Anthony Lawrence Bednall

{"title":"‘Not all socialists dress the same’: Menswear as cultural capital in China","authors":"Anthony Lawrence Bednall","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00040_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00040_1","url":null,"abstract":"Chinese sartorial style, like many cultures, has been defined, formalized and articulated to its population by hierarchical definition and visual association. Menswear styles have transitioned from strict Imperial codes, to westernized adoption, designed to shape a new modernism, as\u0000 various leadership regimes imposed and defined dress codes to implement political and cultural structures. Sustainable practices were developed through the design and construction methods of Imperial garments and as a response to low resources, famine and inefficient management systems during\u0000 the early years of the People’s Republic of China. This period was characterized by rationing for fabrics, recycling and the re-invention of existing garments. Through a contemporary lens, this can be viewed as an integrated sustainable approach to the mass clothing of a significantly\u0000 sized population. However, intervening regimes including the post-Imperial Nationalist leadership and the post-Mao Communist leadership cultivated a new visual identity for the Chinese population as westernization became the prefix for modernization. This article aims to map the historical\u0000 development of menswear as cultural capital in China, to contextualize sustainable practices in the production of garments and define how these practices were systematically and repeatedly rejected in favour of new consumerism. It also aims to historically define the role of menswear in China\u0000 as a representation of the nation’s outward-facing international image and ambitions as a serious and contemporary player, within the global political and cultural community.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"12 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116890641","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Special Issue of Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion: ‘Sustainability and Men’s Fashion’, 2021 男性时尚批判研究特刊:“可持续发展与男性时尚”，2021年

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2021-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00038_2

Debbie Moorhouse, G. Roberts

引用次数: 1

Stumbling into sustainability: The effectual marketing approach of Ecuadorian entrepreneurs to reframe masculinity and accelerate the adoption of slow fashion 走入可持续发展:厄瓜多尔企业家重塑男子气概、加速慢时尚采用的有效营销方式

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2021-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00042_1

A. Pohlmann, Rodrigo Muñoz-Valencia

{"title":"Stumbling into sustainability: The effectual marketing approach of Ecuadorian entrepreneurs to reframe masculinity and accelerate the adoption of slow fashion","authors":"A. Pohlmann, Rodrigo Muñoz-Valencia","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00042_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00042_1","url":null,"abstract":"The prevalent business model of fast fashion has received widespread criticism for being antithetical to sustainability. Therefore, many Gen-Y fashion entrepreneurs routinely base their business models on principles of sustainability. Additionally, the green-feminine stereotype not\u0000 only hinders male consumers’ adoption of ecofriendly products but also poses cultural obstacles for male slow fashion entrepreneurs. By example of the Ecuadorian slow fashion company Remu Apparel, this article investigates how male entrepreneurs craft alternative masculinities through\u0000 both personal and marketing narratives with the intent to mobilize the adoption of slow fashion and to overcome the aforementioned stereotype by reframing hegemonic masculinity. Interviews with the company’s founders indicate that the causal fast fashion business model is recognized\u0000 as harmful and unsustainable; consequently, a sustainability-oriented, effectual, slow fashion business approach is implemented, which opposes the globalized hegemonic business system and concurrently challenges and reframes traditional masculinity. Through respect for natural growth, intermittent\u0000 compromises and career as self-discovery, an alternative, reflective masculinity is crafted and enshrined in Remu’s business objectives. A visual content analysis indicates that social media tools are used to promote and stabilize the image of this alternative masculinity. The findings\u0000 highlight avenues to mobilize slow fashion adoption within entrepreneurial networks and how sustainable, ecofriendly fashion can be promoted among male consumers.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"31 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126584869","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1

Queer insurgency: Slava Mogutin and the politics of camp 同性恋暴动:斯拉瓦·莫古廷和阵营政治

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2021-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00037_1

G. Roberts

{"title":"Queer insurgency: Slava Mogutin and the politics of camp","authors":"G. Roberts","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00037_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00037_1","url":null,"abstract":"The subject of this article is Russo-American artist Slava Mogutin. A close associate of Gosha Rubchinskiy and Lotta Volkova, Mogutin has been based in New York since 1995. While he originally shot to fame as a poet and novelist, Mogutin is today better known as a performance artist,\u0000 filmmaker and photographer. The aim of my article is to locate Mogutin, and in particular his fashion photography, within current debates around the representation of masculinity and the construction of masculine subjectivity/-ies. More specifically, using a visual analysis methodology, I\u0000 analyse the camp aesthetics of Mogutin’s fashion imagery. In a number of ways, Mogutin’s camp aesthetic raises questions about displacement and identity, the clash between individual desires and social norms and ‐ as he puts it ‐ ‘what it means to be a young\u0000 man in the modern world’. It also constitutes an avowedly political challenge, not just to the state-sponsored homophobia and heteronormativity of Mogutin’s native Russia but also to the identity politics underpinning today’s fashion industry. I conclude by suggesting that\u0000 Mogutin’s openly political form of camp might pose a challenge to the traditional Sontagian view of camp as apolitical.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"13 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122010019","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Reinstitute: Performing methods of undress, má and decolonial aestheSis Reinstitute:脱衣、脱衣和非殖民美学的表演方法

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2021-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00032_1

Lesiba Mabitsela

引用次数: 0

Highland haberdashery: Scottish kiltmaking in the twenty-first century 高地服饰店:二十一世纪的苏格兰短裙制作

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2021-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00028_1

David Loranger, Eulanda A. Sanders

引用次数: 1

Reflections of Durbar in the Diaspora 杜巴在散居中的反思

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2021-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00036_1

Teleica Kirkland

{"title":"Reflections of Durbar in the Diaspora","authors":"Teleica Kirkland","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00036_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00036_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article questions if the propensity of Black men in globally dominant western countries to wear black or dark colours is an outcome of internalized subjugation and an adherence to westernized projections of masculinity. It uses the 2018 Akinola Davies Junior film Zazzau\u0000 as its backdrop, drawing parallels with other examples of colourful clothing in the context of Black masculinity. Zazzau shows the annual festival of Durbar, a vibrant celebration at the end of Ramadan in Kaduna State, Nigeria, where the Emir of the region and his entourage use traditional\u0000 dress and contemporary fabrics to demonstrate their sartorial elegance. The bold and flamboyant dress of the men is not only indicative of the pageantry of this procession but is reminiscent of the creative exuberance and stylishness of annual carnivals in the Caribbean. This article uses\u0000 this comparison as a tool to discuss a reengagement with the creativity, styling and colour of Black men’s clothing, and demonstrates how an engagement with colourful design aesthetics maintains its sense of masculinity. ‘Reflections of Durbar in the Diaspora’ draws parallels\u0000 between the robes of the Emir, men’s costumes at carnival and the tailoring of Abrantie the Gentleman to examine how social engagement, living culture and traditional fashion intersect to influence and impact the ways in which men’s style is understood in Africa and the African\u0000 Diaspora.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"418 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"114715757","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Special Issue of Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion: ‘Globalizing Men’s Style’, 2021 《男性时尚批判研究》特刊:“全球化的男性风格”，2021

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2021-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00031_2

C. Athill, Jay McCauley Bowstead

引用次数: 0

No man is an island: The sustainability awareness effect of geography on hedonic fashion consumption and connection with nature ‐ evidence from Galápagos and Hawaii 没有人是一座孤岛:地理对享乐时尚消费和与自然联系的可持续性意识影响——来自Galápagos和夏威夷的证据

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2021-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00041_1

A. Pohlmann

{"title":"No man is an island: The sustainability awareness effect of geography on hedonic fashion consumption and connection with nature ‐ evidence from Galápagos and Hawaii","authors":"A. Pohlmann","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00041_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00041_1","url":null,"abstract":"The demand for ever-accelerating fast fashion is unprecedented, while its supply chain burdens environmental systems. Hedonic fashion consumption is generally unfettered by sustainability concerns, but evidence suggests that island geographies‐with dense boundaries between the\u0000 built and the natural environment‐have a heightening effect on eco-consciousness. A framework based on the contemporary condition of hyperconsumption is proposed: island geography heightens sustainability awareness; consequently, fashion consumers located on islands trade-off perceived\u0000 hedonic benefits of fashion consumption against perceived moral benefits of connection with nature. The framework is supported by visual evidence collected on the Galápagos island Santa Cruz, indicating that male fashion consumers express connection with nature by means of tattoos,\u0000 slogans on clothing and choice of eco-friendly materials. Quantitative tests with survey data from the United States and Ecuador show that residents in Hawaii and the Galápagos have higher levels of connection with nature compared to residents on the associated continental areas. This\u0000 effect is mediated by decreased perceived rewards of hedonic fashion consumption, but the effect is overall weaker in Ecuador compared to the United States due to differences in purchasing power and attitudes towards consumerism. Because of the stereotype that eco-friendly is unmanly, men\u0000 are generally less likely to embrace environmentally friendly products and the findings of this research point to avenues to overcome this barrier.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"43 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129546948","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Clothing and the oceanic identity in Melville’s Redburn 梅尔维尔的《红本》中的服装和海洋身份

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2021-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00029_1

Daniel S. Traber

引用次数: 0