Clothing and the oceanic identity in Melville’s Redburn

Daniel S. Traber
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Abstract

Herman Melville’s Redburn approaches the topic of corporeal coding via the outer layer of clothing. Throughout the novel, the young protagonist consciously uses clothing as a means of self-representation and expression, deploying fashion to create and position himself in different contexts; for example, taking pride in his ragged clothes amongst well-dressed ship passengers becomes a form of social protest. But Redburn is also used to comic effect because his choices are often based on incorrect assumptions of propriety, such as his notion of the way a sailor is supposed to dress not matching the onboard reality. The rules of appearance that construct and restrain an identity are paradoxically bolstered at the same time they are broken, which allows Melville the opportunity to explore rebellion alongside the performative aspect of the self as a body constituting both a visible sign and a living vehicle for the mores, beliefs and ideologies that shape a society.
梅尔维尔的《红本》中的服装和海洋身份
赫尔曼·梅尔维尔(Herman Melville)的《红本》(Redburn)通过衣服的外层来探讨身体编码的主题。在整部小说中,年轻的主人公有意识地将服装作为一种自我表现和表达的手段,运用时尚来创造和定位自己在不同的语境中;例如,在穿着得体的船上乘客中以自己的衣衫褴褛为荣,成为一种社会抗议的形式。但雷德伯恩也习惯了喜剧效果,因为他的选择往往是基于错误的得体假设,比如他对水手应该穿什么衣服的看法与船上的现实不符。建构和约束身份的外表规则自相矛盾地得到了支持,同时也被打破了,这让梅尔维尔有机会探索叛逆,以及自我的表演方面,作为一个身体,既构成了一个可见的标志,又构成了塑造社会的习俗、信仰和意识形态的活生生的载体。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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