Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion最新文献_第2页

The race-gendered clothing choices of the ‘professional and respectable’ Black man in the workplace 职场中“专业且受人尊敬”的黑人男性的种族性别着装选择

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00051_1

B. Spencer

{"title":"The race-gendered clothing choices of the ‘professional and respectable’ Black man in the workplace","authors":"B. Spencer","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00051_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00051_1","url":null,"abstract":"The objective of this qualitative study is to investigate the clothing choices of ‘professional and respectable’ Black men in the workplace. More precisely, this study will shed light on why Black men decide to wear particular clothing fashions and how they view themselves\u0000 versus how they perceive themselves to be viewed by the wider society. I utilize respectability politics and W. E. B. DuBois’s condition of double consciousness to guide this qualitative study with N=4 Black male professionals. Findings show that Black men are psychologically\u0000 bounded by having to uphold respectability politics and must alter the way they dress to be more respected by their non-Black colleagues. Additionally, some of the Black men were also financially burdened by needing to dress in particular fashions (e.g., suits and ties) that are relatively\u0000 expensive, while their non-Black colleagues would typically wear more casual clothing within the workplace. Despite the fact that the Black men within this study uphold respectability politics at their places of employment, they are still harshly stereotyped by their non-Black colleagues.\u0000 Thus, Black men are left questioning why they continue to engage in respectability politics as it pertains to the distinct ways in which they dress in order to maintain a professional and respectable appearance and demeanor.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"31 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"117120580","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1

‘They never felt these fabrics before’: How SoundCloud rappers became the dandies of hip hop through hybrid dress “他们以前从未感受过这些面料”:SoundCloud说唱歌手如何通过混合服装成为嘻哈的花花公子

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00053_1

James Whittaker, Ashley Morgan

{"title":"‘They never felt these fabrics before’: How SoundCloud rappers became the dandies of hip hop through hybrid dress","authors":"James Whittaker, Ashley Morgan","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00053_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00053_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article examines the appearances and dress of SoundCloud rappers, a highly popular subgenre of American hip hop music, which shifted from homemade music to the mainstream in 2016. SoundCloud rappers wear clothes usually associated with hybrid masculinity, such as fluffy pink hoodies,\u0000 silk scarves and frilly shirts. In contrast, although not lacking in style, rappers usually embody an idealized heteronormative masculinity, played out through manly affect, which is often expressed through baggy sports clothing and oversized gold jewellery. Despite Black masculinity being\u0000 historically defined through stylish, interesting and ostentatious clothes, these looks have been rejected by traditional rappers for fear of association with more hybrid masculinity. The transformation in cultural production through participatory culture, allowing for different male identities\u0000 to be expressed notwithstanding, masculinity in hip hop has been very slow to change. Using the concept of the dandy, this article examines the ways in which certain SoundCloud rappers have embraced ostentation in clothing, despite a significant backlash from their peers. Moreover, we suggest\u0000 that SoundCloud rappers have pushed the boundaries of clothing for a new generation of queer Black rappers, arguably, paving the way for looks which are ‘beyond belief’.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"223 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122831813","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Representation of sustainability in US men’s fashion magazines: A content analysis based exploratory study 可持续性在美国男性时尚杂志中的表现:基于内容分析的探索性研究

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00045_1

Jitong Li

{"title":"Representation of sustainability in US men’s fashion magazines: A content analysis based exploratory study","authors":"Jitong Li","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00045_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00045_1","url":null,"abstract":"This exploratory study aims to investigate the representation of sustainability in US men’s fashion magazines. Specifically, employing quantitative and qualitative content analysis, this study identifies and analyses meanings of sustainability, the companies having sustainable\u0000 practices, the products with sustainable attributes and specific sustainable practices. 41 and seventeen articles related to fashion and sustainability were collected from the two US online men’s fashion magazines, Gentlemen’s Quarterly (GQ) and Esquire, respectively.\u0000 For both magazines, the environmental dimension is more frequently addressed than the social dimension in the articles. Various terms are used to describe the same subject and the two magazines have different preferences when selecting words to present the same issue. For example, GQ\u0000 prefers ‘eco-friendly’, but Esquire picks ‘planet’ when discussing the environmental dimension. Moreover, the concept of sustainability is ambiguous in the two magazines due to overlapped terms and lack of explanation. In both magazines, the most frequently mentioned\u0000 product is footwear. However, GQ tends to introduce sustainable practices concerning solid waste and focus on the luxury sector. Comparably, Esquire focuses more on the environmental impacts of raw material sourcing and the affordable fashion sector. This study contributes to\u0000 the body knowledge of sustainability communication in the men’s fashion sector. Researchers can employ the results to conduct further analysis, such as examining the difference between sustainability representation in magazines and academic studies. Based on the results, companies should\u0000 improve their communication with consumers regarding their sustainable practices.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"13 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"114835672","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Performance Costume: New Perspectives and Methods, Sofia Pantouvaki and Peter McNeil (2021) 《表演服装:新视角与方法》，索菲亚·潘图瓦基、彼得·麦克尼尔(2021)

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00048_5

Abby Sumner

引用次数: 0

Freak to Chic: ‘Gay’ Men in and out of Fashion After Oscar Wilde, Dominic Janes (2021) 《从怪胎到时髦:奥斯卡·王尔德之后“同性恋”的流行与落伍》，多米尼克·詹姆斯(2021)

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00047_5

M. Rothenberg

引用次数: 1

Grime, gangs and the perpetuation of stereotypes by sportswear brands in the United Kingdom 污垢、帮派和英国运动服装品牌的刻板印象

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2022-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00052_1

K. Parker

{"title":"Grime, gangs and the perpetuation of stereotypes by sportswear brands in the United Kingdom","authors":"K. Parker","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00052_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00052_1","url":null,"abstract":"Sportswear, particularly Nike, has been a fundamental component of the aesthetic of grime since the genre emerged in the United Kingdom in the early 2000s. Whilst grime is primarily known as a genre of electronic music, it can be seen as a multi-faceted creative practice allowing marginalized\u0000 communities to articulate their antipathy towards existing sociopolitical mores, whilst simultaneously offering alternative sources of income, skills, cohesion and hope. Grime’s aesthetic intersects with that of gang culture in several areas including through sportswear. As grime has\u0000 grown economically brands have noticed ‐ resulting in various collaborations including the 2018 Nike ‘Nothing Beats a Londoner’ campaign with grime artist Skepta. This article sets out to evaluate this advert and argues that through this collaboration Nike has perpetuated\u0000 racial stereotyping via culturally appropriating grime culture. In doing so, authentic grime artists have been employed to give the advert greater authenticity, staged in the city that birthed grime. This cultural appropriation has resulted in the perpetuation of dangerous Black male stereotypes,\u0000 utilizing this to boost sales for the world’s largest sport corporation, in stark contrast to the founding principles of grime.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"55 2 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"123254011","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Sustainable development and the aspirational male consumer: Tengri, making the case for sustainable luxury 可持续发展和有抱负的男性消费者:腾日，可持续奢侈品的案例

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2021-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00043_1

Natascha Radclyffe-Thomas

{"title":"Sustainable development and the aspirational male consumer: Tengri, making the case for sustainable luxury","authors":"Natascha Radclyffe-Thomas","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00043_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00043_1","url":null,"abstract":"Luxury is an industry that defines its value through the quality of its raw materials, which fosters creativity, elevates artisanship and relies on brand heritage and local production to underpin the provenance of its products and justify its pricing strategy and, as such, can be considered\u0000 as embodying many of the practices of sustainability. Yet, despite public commitments and pledges for better business, both financial and cultural factors have contributed to a lack of progress in implementing the necessary system changes implied by slow fashion, sustainable development and\u0000 the circular economy. Social enterprises use business to address social and environmental issues. In Tengri’s case, founder Nancy Johnston was inspired by her experiences travelling with Mongolia’s yak herders where she was confronted with the harshness of the nomadic way of life\u0000 and threats to its continuing existence. She was driven to action when she juxtaposed these conditions with the promoted glamour of the luxury fashion industry, which relies on supplies of ingredients from just such workers. This article explores how Tengri combines social and environmental\u0000 awareness with luxury product development incorporating the UN SDGs into a sustainable luxury menswear brand in a virtuous cycle of ethical fashion consumption and production.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"204 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122687474","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

‘All Tee, No Shade’: A manifesto for a subtle critical practice negotiating queer, East Asian masculinities through T-shirts “全t恤，没有阴影”:一种微妙的批判实践宣言，通过t恤来表达酷儿、东亚的男性气质

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2021-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00034_1

Sang Thai

{"title":"‘All Tee, No Shade’: A manifesto for a subtle critical practice negotiating queer, East Asian masculinities through T-shirts","authors":"Sang Thai","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00034_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00034_1","url":null,"abstract":"‘All Tee, No Shade’ is a practice-led research project that explores the use of the men’s T-shirt to challenge and disrupt hegemonic subjectivities that contribute to the marginalization and discrimination of the queer Asian diaspora. Through an exploration of my pilot\u0000 project of the same name, produced as part of the arts programme of Virgin Australian Melbourne Fashion Festival in 2020, I propose that norm-critical design methodologies exploring intersectional experiences of fashion and dress can produce material outcomes that challenge the discrimination\u0000 and oppression associated with compounding conditions of race and sexuality. I use the notion of ‘subtle’ traits as a condition of the East Asian diasporic experience to reveal how race and sexuality might be expressed through fashion production to disrupt conceptions of ‘otherness’.\u0000 This is achieved with T-shirts that have printed graphic configurations that align with contemporary streetwear but with ‘subtle’ signifiers embedded through the signs and lexicons of Asian and queer communities. Using an autoethnographic approach, the work is informed by my past\u0000 fashion design industry experience and reflects on racial and queer marginalization and discrimination through styling and fit. The project contributes to broader discourses aimed at decentralizing dominant narratives in fashion practice and responds to a lack of academic research into diasporic\u0000 Asian experiences of dress and, more specifically, queer diasporic Asian dress.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"348 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122757611","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Kanduras ‘Khaleeji style’: Investigating Gulf masculinities and dress 坎杜拉的“Khaleeji风格”:调查海湾地区的男子气概和着装

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2021-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00033_1

Lezley George

{"title":"Kanduras ‘Khaleeji style’: Investigating Gulf masculinities and dress","authors":"Lezley George","doi":"10.1386/csmf_00033_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00033_1","url":null,"abstract":"Far more research is dedicated to assessing women’s fashioned bodies than for men’s in the Middle East and particularly in Gulf countries. Across the Gulf, male national citizens typically wear a long ‘dress-like’ garment, with regionally designated names of\u0000 kandura, dish-dasha or thobe, and in colours delineated depending on the particular GCC state. Particularly focusing on the United Arab Emirates, I investigate how the kandura, when\u0000 combined with the ghutra (white headscarf) and agal (black rope with tassels), becomes representational of national hegemonic masculinity and performatively styled to underline cultural authority and authenticity. These garments are deemed\u0000 traditional attire, but on a closer inspection, they act as sites to investigate coded signs of cultural fashion capital and ‘local’ tastes. This article critically unpacks these constructs and their meanings for Khaleeji masculinity by examining three main ‘spaces’\u0000 ‐ work, leisure and military national service ‐ to scrutinize how the gender politics of space operates on men’s dressed body practices and underpins an emblematic presentation of privilege and patriotic manhood.","PeriodicalId":165644,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion","volume":"181 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"124541174","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

How to Read a Suit: A Guide to Changing Men’s Fashion from the 17th to the 20th Century, Lydia Edwards (2020) 《如何解读西装:从17世纪到20世纪男性时尚变化指南》，莉迪亚·爱德华兹(Lydia Edwards)著(2020)

Critical Studies in Men???s Fashion Pub Date : 2021-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00030_5

Lauren Gavin

引用次数: 0