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Luxury and the Ethics of Greed in Early Modern Italy 奢侈与意大利近代早期的贪婪伦理
IF 0.2
Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2021-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2021.1874151
M. Hayward
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引用次数: 0
Luxury’s Fragile Frontier: The Rhinoceros and Venice: An Introduction to a Special Edition 奢侈品的脆弱边界:犀牛和威尼斯:特别版介绍
IF 0.2
Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2021-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2020.1864592
Catherine Kovesi
{"title":"Luxury’s Fragile Frontier: The Rhinoceros and Venice: An Introduction to a Special Edition","authors":"Catherine Kovesi","doi":"10.1080/20511817.2020.1864592","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511817.2020.1864592","url":null,"abstract":"Amongst the trinkets available for sale in the shop of the Basilica di San Marco, the most important religious edifice of the city of Venice, is a small fridge magnet depicting a rhinoceros in mosaic. This Venetian mosaic is arguably the first known representation of a rhinoceros in Western Europe since the fourth century. Whether or not the mass touristic hordes to whom such trinkets are marketed have seen or even managed to find this mosaic hidden within the Basilica on the floor near a side chapel, this magnet embodies the core themes of this special issue of Luxury: History, Culture, Consumption. I feel a sense of deep gratitude and privilege that Jonathan Faiers was persuaded of the timeliness of an initially unlikely pairing of themes in this, his last issue as editor of the journal he founded, and a journal which is uniquely Lu xu ry D O I: 10 .1 08 0/ 20 51 18 17 .2 02 0. 18 64 59 2","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":"8 1","pages":"1 - 6"},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42310163","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Not Knowing as Luxury: Strategic Nonknowledge and the Demand for a “Sportbrake” 作为奢侈品的无知:战略性的无知与对“运动刹车”的需求
IF 0.2
Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2020-04-27 DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2018.1738705
M. Gross
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引用次数: 2
The Globalisation of Luxury Fashion: The Case of Gucci 奢侈品时尚的全球化:以古驰为例
IF 0.2
Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2019-09-02 DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2021.1897268
J. Armitage, Joanne Roberts
{"title":"The Globalisation of Luxury Fashion: The Case of Gucci","authors":"J. Armitage, Joanne Roberts","doi":"10.1080/20511817.2021.1897268","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511817.2021.1897268","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This article offers the reader an encounter with crucial writings on the globalisation of luxury fashion. In so doing, it introduces an original conceptualisation of luxury fashion. The historical meaning of the globalisation of luxury fashion from Roman times up until the present period is examined. The globalisation of Gucci, the Italian luxury fashion brand specialising in leather goods, is then analysed. Through this case study the complexity of the globalisation of luxury fashion is revealed. The Italian luxury fashion brand has from its inception in 1921 drawn on and absorbed a range of cultures from across the globe. Globalisation of national luxury fashion brands is, therefore, far from unidirectional. Rather, such processes involve a multidirectional flow of luxury cultural influences. Indeed, it is concluded that luxury fashion itself is a globalising medium of luxury culture.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":"6 1","pages":"227 - 246"},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2019-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20511817.2021.1897268","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43995801","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 4
Recycling Luxury: An Introduction 回收奢侈品：导论
IF 0.2
Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2019-05-04 DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2020.1818947
Marie Tavinor
{"title":"Recycling Luxury: An Introduction","authors":"Marie Tavinor","doi":"10.1080/20511817.2020.1818947","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511817.2020.1818947","url":null,"abstract":"Le luxe desordonne se detruit lui-meme, il epuise ses sources, il tarit ses canaux.Saint-LambertThis special issue of the Journal Luxury, History, Culture, Consumption stems from a conference which...","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":"6 1","pages":"139 - 143"},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2019-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20511817.2020.1818947","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42748294","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
“Broken and Useless”. Notes on Fashion and Textile Recycling and Repurposing in 18th Century Venice “破碎而无用”。关于18世纪威尼斯时装和纺织品回收利用的笔记
IF 0.2
Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2019-05-04 DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2020.1818942
Isabella Campagnol
{"title":"“Broken and Useless”. Notes on Fashion and Textile Recycling and Repurposing in 18th Century Venice","authors":"Isabella Campagnol","doi":"10.1080/20511817.2020.1818942","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511817.2020.1818942","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract In 18th century Venice, a city renowned for its unparalleled opulence, judicious recycling and repurposing of luxury textiles, was, ironically, the norm. Archival documents routinely list elegant, but “worn out” items, as in the 1773 inventory of Marina Eirardi, where a number of broken and “useless” clothing items are mentioned, and where is carefully described what remains of a precious gown made with a “brocade fabric with gold and silver flowers … disassembled into pieces and the gold and silver flowers had been removed … so that holes remain in their places”. While we do not know what happened to the flowers, it is anyway clear that these valuable elements were saved and somehow recycled, if only to melt down the precious metals. Comparing this document with an almost contemporary garment, the paper proposes to explore examples of patrician thriftiness, opening interesting avenues of investigations about the reuse of luxury items.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":"6 1","pages":"145 - 156"},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2019-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20511817.2020.1818942","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48088422","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Liminal Luxury: Establishing the Value of Fancy Dress Costume 阈限奢华:化妆服装价值的确立
IF 0.2
Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2019-05-04 DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2020.1818948
Ben Wild
{"title":"Liminal Luxury: Establishing the Value of Fancy Dress Costume","authors":"Ben Wild","doi":"10.1080/20511817.2020.1818948","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511817.2020.1818948","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The study and contextualisation of one early twentieth-century fancy dress costume from The John Bright Collection, London, provides an opportunity to challenge the socialised assumption that fancy dress costume is a short-lived, skill-less and superficial spectacle. Like many examples of this sartorial form, the Good Luck dress examined here shares characteristics with clothing termed, with little hesitation, luxury.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":"6 1","pages":"179 - 187"},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2019-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20511817.2020.1818948","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"60020772","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
“This Heavy Thing”: Catherine the Great’s Coronation Crown “这件沉重的事”：凯瑟琳大帝的加冕王冠
IF 0.2
Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2019-05-04 DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2020.1818946
S. Jaques
{"title":"“This Heavy Thing”: Catherine the Great’s Coronation Crown","authors":"S. Jaques","doi":"10.1080/20511817.2020.1818946","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511817.2020.1818946","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract After seizing power in 1762, Catherine II organized the most extravagant coronation money could buy. To add to the splendour, she placed a rush order for a crown. With carte blanche to use luxurious objects from the Russian treasury, jeweler Jérémie Pauzié designed “one of the richest objects that has ever existed in Europe”. Five thousand diamonds adorned the surface of the two half spheres; two rows of white pearls outlined the edges of the miters. The pièce de résistance was a nearly 400-carat ruby red spinel, removed from the crown of Empress Anna, niece of Peter the Great. The world’s second largest spinel had been acquired in Peking in 1676 by Russia’s envoy to China. Thrilled, Catherine declared that she’d somehow manage to hold “this heavy thing” on her head during the four-hour Kremlin ceremony. In the tradition of Byzantine emperors before and Napoleon after, Catherine placed the crown on her own head. It was worn by all of her successors, from her son Paul I to Nicholas II, Russia’s last tsar.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":"6 1","pages":"169 - 177"},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2019-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20511817.2020.1818946","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45918582","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
The case study of a “tinkered” tapestry “修补”挂毯的案例研究
IF 0.2
Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2019-05-04 DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2019.1818940
P. Bertrand
{"title":"The case study of a “tinkered” tapestry","authors":"P. Bertrand","doi":"10.1080/20511817.2019.1818940","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511817.2019.1818940","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Tapestry is a luxury item before being a work of art. By the very fact of its function, tapestry undergoes transformations since all time. We cut or add borders, we cut large format tapestry into several pieces, and then, we re-sew them, all of this acts to put them to the dimension of surfaces that the tapestry must cover. This presentation would like to dwell on a particular case of a \"tinkered\" tapestry, the example of which is very useful today for the art historian to understand the phenomenon of usage, far from the notion of heritage we have today. What could be considered wasteful is actually reuse. What appears as vestiges of the past can also be useful for finding lost original compositions. Relying on archival documents, this is what I propose to do from a tapestry woven at the Beauvais Manufactory in the late eighteenth century.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":"6 1","pages":"189 - 199"},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2019-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20511817.2019.1818940","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45079923","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
The Virtue of Auction Houses 拍卖行的美德
IF 0.2
Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2019-05-04 DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2020.1818945
S. Fergusson
{"title":"The Virtue of Auction Houses","authors":"S. Fergusson","doi":"10.1080/20511817.2020.1818945","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511817.2020.1818945","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract ‘The Virtue of Auction Houses’ shows auction houses to be important centres of recycling using philosophical theory combined with first-hand experience. The notion of ‘waste’ is explored – luxury items lying unworn and unused. This has moral implications and negates our ability to understand these objects. The auction house gives voice to these pieces once again. But why should we take the time to acknowledge these ideas? The answer is twofold: firstly, we can encourage self-reflection on the part of vendor, allaying any feelings of guilt they may have concerning the sale of those same pieces. Secondly, we can use these concepts to promote the auction industry as a whole, engaging a new audience of considerate, considered buyers.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":"6 1","pages":"157 - 167"},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2019-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20511817.2020.1818945","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43082235","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
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