Luxury-History Culture Consumption最新文献

Curative handcrafted textiles: Healing generations 治愈手工纺织品:治愈世代

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Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2023-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/ipol_00022_1

Rishab Manocha

{"title":"Curative handcrafted textiles: Healing generations","authors":"Rishab Manocha","doi":"10.1386/ipol_00022_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ipol_00022_1","url":null,"abstract":"While natural disasters in the past, along with the recent COVID-19 pandemic, have disrupted livelihoods, they have also activated the structuring of handicraft as an age-old remedial practice with curative properties. Further, the need for communicating textile processes, in support of slow fashion, has allowed educational institutions to contextualize this teaching with the help of pedagogical models that define the role of both craft education and craft-based research. As an educator at Pearl Academy, India, what I can observe in the modern world today is that there is always a cross-cultural contact between the ‘local’ and the ‘global’ and that, the much-discussed ‘global village’ is no longer a fantasy but a fact, despite numerous paradoxes. This article aims at giving an insight into my perspectives and experiences that shed light on the plight of handicraft in the most hand-skilled country in the world. It also lends a bird’s-eye point of view on the need to break barriers between modern and traditional, between urban and rural, etc., and look at the many avatars of handicraft and techniques being repurposed for modern applications such as luxury fashion, interior design and jewellery. This can result in the creation of works that are not only aesthetically pleasing but are also functional, sustainable and culturally sensitive and can help designers and artists navigate complex ethical issues that resonate with diverse communities. The article takes into consideration handcrafted textile samples developed by three postgraduate fashion design students at Pearl Academy, India, who have developed textile samples as part of their project called ‘Hybrid Textiles’. The samples create an epilogue to the context of this study through an ‘end of life’ narrative and craft practices in India.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"85648078","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

‘The luxury runs deep’: Which were the most luxurious cars of the 1970s? “奢华之深”:哪些是上世纪70年代最豪华的汽车?

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Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2023-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/ipol_00020_1

Oliver Bradbury

{"title":"‘The luxury runs deep’: Which were the most luxurious cars of the 1970s?","authors":"Oliver Bradbury","doi":"10.1386/ipol_00020_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ipol_00020_1","url":null,"abstract":"I come to this topic for two reasons. I am possibly the world’s first automobile colour and trim historian. I am also the author of a book-length paper concerning design in the 1970s (interior design, product design, automobile design, architecture, etc.). It is these two research areas that have led me to write this article about the most luxurious cars of the 1970s, the decade that rediscovered luxury. 1970s car design was very much about investigating the car interior after so much previous emphasis on exterior design, and in this decade, car interiors became much more luxurious and generally comfortable across industry, not for just the top marques. The four cars under investigation here are Rolls-Royce Camargue, which was the most expensive car in the world when launched in 1975; Aston Martin Lagonda (four doors); Daimler Double-Six Vanden Plas; and Stutz Blackhawk. It is stating the obvious to say that automobile literature in the form of books and journals is a vast subject matter, and yet there was until recently not a single standalone study of a fundamental aspect of car design – colour and trim, one with universal application. This study being this author’s ‘Colour and trim design for automobiles, 1960–95, and that of recognising an uncharted genre in design history’ published in Aspects of Motoring History (2021, issue 17), the Journal of the Society of Automotive Historians in Britain. Literature invariably tends to be about styling or engineering concerns. Here is an opportunity to move beyond these old concerns into an uncharted territory.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84197109","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Splitting the atom of heritage to respond to luxury’s challenges and crises 拆分传统元素，应对奢侈品的挑战和危机

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Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2023-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/ipol_00019_1

Felicia Caponigri

{"title":"Splitting the atom of heritage to respond to luxury’s challenges and crises","authors":"Felicia Caponigri","doi":"10.1386/ipol_00019_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ipol_00019_1","url":null,"abstract":"What role does, and can, heritage play in the challenges and crises that confront brands operating in the luxury industry? Are heritage and luxury the same thing, or are they separate concepts? In this brief reflection, I explore what heritage means for luxury brands and how heritage might most impactfully help luxury brands as they create new products, enter new markets and continue to operate as heritage brands. The two main case studies I briefly highlight to spotlight the symbiotic and, at other times, challenging relationship between heritage and luxury are Hermès’ contestation of the creation of MetaBirkins by the artist Mason Rothschild and Schiaparelli’s Haute Couture collection inspired by Dante’s Inferno. Through these cases I propose that luxury consider splitting the atom of heritage into brand heritage and cultural heritage to more fully understand how brand heritage supports its luxury positioning while, at the same time, acknowledging the times that brand heritage, when improperly translated for contemporary consumers, might fail. I also propose that cultural heritage offers opportunities for luxury but also a responsibility to more fully acknowledge luxury brands’ role in our cultural discourse by permitting certain commentary on their designs and products, notwithstanding legal rights they might have in their arsenal. I conclude by proposing that educational offerings, especially in fashion and luxury law, should more fully embrace a cross-pollination between luxury and heritage.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"81347195","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

‘Brand Purpose’ in fashion and luxury brand management: A must or an opportunity? 时尚与奢侈品牌管理中的“品牌目的”:必须还是机遇?

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Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2023-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/ipol_00018_1

Alessandro Balossini Volpe

{"title":"‘Brand Purpose’ in fashion and luxury brand management: A must or an opportunity?","authors":"Alessandro Balossini Volpe","doi":"10.1386/ipol_00018_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ipol_00018_1","url":null,"abstract":"In contemporary brand management practices, the definition and effective marketing of a so-called Purpose is commonly considered as mandatory to achieve a competitive advantage and eventually a superior financial performance. Such practices are particularly common in the fashion and luxury industries. Through the analysis of appropriate business literature, marketing researches and relevant case histories, the author rejects this popular belief, first, because many brands are perfectly successful, even without any Purpose (which should not be confused with corporate communications strategies), its identity having been successfully built around other worthy values; moreover, not necessarily, customers always prioritize Purpose-driven brands in their purchases, particularly if commanding higher prices and during recessions. A well-designed and effectively marketed Brand Purpose surely offers opportunities (i.e. strong and resilient emotional connections with targeted customer segments, including high spending luxury buyers and communication opportunities and visibility of brand leaders and spokespersons) but also implies risks (i.e. ideological values are by definition controversial, therefore such strategies could hurt part of the clientele of brands with broad target audiences, and negative reactions from some governments or from the public opinion in different cultural environments). Finally, and more crucially, managers should be aware that Purpose-centred brands are constantly overexposed towards the media, their target customers and the public opinion, and their stakeholders are more and more demanding, scrutinizing their practices and expecting impeccable consistency; therefore, just ‘building’ a narrative without consistent underlying practices will likely be ineffective, if not counterproductive.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"80430127","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Tales of a state of mind, body and space: The quest for the next luxury 心灵、身体和空间的故事:对下一个奢侈品的追求

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Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2023-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/ipol_00017_1

Tiago Valente

{"title":"Tales of a state of mind, body and space: The quest for the next luxury","authors":"Tiago Valente","doi":"10.1386/ipol_00017_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ipol_00017_1","url":null,"abstract":"Once upon a time, luxury was defined by rare and expensive materials, exceptional craftsmanship and iconic design. It was about acquiring something that only a select few could afford and displaying it as a symbol of wealth and status. However, as the world changed, so too did the definition of luxury. Today, the luxury market is experiencing a transformation that is rewriting the rules of what it means to be luxurious. In order to succeed in this rapidly changing landscape, luxury brands must embrace a new paradigm of leadership. They must be proactive in their approach, seeking out new opportunities for growth and innovation. And they must be willing to take bold risks and embrace new technologies and business models. So what does all of this mean for the future of luxury beyond 2023? It means that in order to survive and thrive, luxury brands must be able to adapt to their changing environment, to balance the tension between opposing forces and to create their own unique interpretation of what luxury means. They must also be able to innovate and create new and relevant experiences for consumers, and to do so, they must be able to think creatively and to think beyond the constraints of traditional models and conventions. This article details the rationale behind how luxury brands have an opportunity to lead the way in shaping a more responsible, sustainable and equitable future. It offers actions and strategies to understand how to embrace their mantle of greater expectation and responsibility, in order to use their comparative advantage to drive positive change in society.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"80451892","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Examining proxemic as an instrument for experiential brand design in physical retail spaces 在实体零售空间中，将邻域作为体验式品牌设计的工具进行研究

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Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2023-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/ipol_00023_1

Beatriz Itzel Cruz Megchun

{"title":"Examining proxemic as an instrument for experiential brand design in physical retail spaces","authors":"Beatriz Itzel Cruz Megchun","doi":"10.1386/ipol_00023_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ipol_00023_1","url":null,"abstract":"For luxury coffee shops to create positive and memorable brand experiences for their customers, they must carefully design, manage and maintain their brand image throughout the entire consumer journey. The store environment plays a prominent role because it strongly influences customers’ perceptions of the brand. Factors such as the social atmosphere and employee interactions contribute to defining and representing the brand identity to customers. Therefore, coffee shops must consider customers’ cultural identities to ensure their experiences are relevant to the sociocultural context. By integrating design, branding, anthropometry and proxemics, decision-makers can create personalized experiences that engage customers on physical, emotional, cognitive and cultural levels. This research focuses on using proxemics to design luxury coffee shop experiences in multicultural spaces. We propose an instrument to collect data on task patterns, task distinctions and user preferences in coffee shops. The tool consists of three sections that collect data on proxemic behaviour, proxemic perceptions (cultural) and proxemic reflections. We used a case study to exhibit the relevance of proxemics and proxemic behaviour in improving the interaction between person, object and space. The instrument offers the possibility to document proxemic factors that are imperceptible and intangible in the users’ brand experience and journey in a retail space. It also provides data to increase user engagement with different touchpoints, such as retail space, product design and identity design. Proxemic behaviour is relevant in addressing cultural, behavioural and sociological aspects of interpersonal situations related to spatial distance between individuals. These findings suggest the relevance of proxemics in promoting human-centred design in experiential spaces. Ultimately, the work aims to expand the available instruments and methods for improving user experiences in service-based industries within the experience economy.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88430337","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Craftsmanship: Interview with Kathryn Sargent, master cutter and tailor 工艺:采访凯瑟琳·萨金特，裁缝大师

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Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2023-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/ipol_00021_7

Shaun Borstrock

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Craftsmanship: Interview with Stephen Jones, milliner 工艺:采访女帽商斯蒂芬·琼斯

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Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2022-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/ipol_00014_7

Shaun Borstrock

引用次数: 0

Rethinking Luxury Fashion: The Role of Cultural Intelligence in Creative Strategy, Thomaï Serdari (2020) 重新思考奢侈品时尚:文化智慧在创意战略中的作用，Thomaï Serdari (2020)

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Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2022-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/ipol_00015_5

Fred O'Connor

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The imaginary of luxury 奢侈的想象

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Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2022-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/ipol_00011_1

Frédéric Monneyron, P. Mathieu

引用次数: 0