Coastal Engineering最新文献

{"title":"Influence of bed ripples on scour-induced span elongation of pipelines/cables","authors":"Bingchang Zhang ,&nbsp;Scott Draper ,&nbsp;Hongwei An ,&nbsp;Hongyi Jiang ,&nbsp;Liang Cheng","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104777","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104777","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This study presents results from laboratory experiments designed to investigate the scour propagation along a pipeline/cable under steady current. Most previous research on this topic has shown that the scour propagation has a primary and secondary stage, with the transition to the secondary stage believed to occur when the scour hole reaches some critical length. However, results from the present study show that in small-scale model testing, bed ripples have a direct influence on scour rate, causing a transition from a primary to secondary stage as they develop. This is demonstrated by comparing scour propagation rates before and after ripples develop upstream of the pipeline/cable, and after ripples are removed by flattening the upstream bed. It is found that bed ripples appear to have both an indirect and direct influence on scour propagation. Indirectly, ripples reduce near-bed velocity by altering the boundary layer, while directly they deflect flow upwards, sheltering the pipeline/cable and reducing flow into the scour front. Additionally, the sediment flux entering the scour front may be altered by the proximity of upstream ripples, potentially leading to temporary cessation of scour propagation. The findings from this work have implications both for interpreting scour results in earlier research and for designing future experimental models.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"201 ","pages":"Article 104777"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-05-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144070123","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Experimental and numerical investigation of the dynamic response of coastal box-girder superstructures considering rotational effects under extreme wave loading","authors":"Bo Huang ,&nbsp;Minglin Chen ,&nbsp;Zhiying Yang ,&nbsp;Jianting Zhou ,&nbsp;Dan Zhong ,&nbsp;Jiawei Zhou","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104774","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104774","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Due to the rising frequency of extreme marine disasters, research on the interaction between coastal bridges and waves has gained significant attention in recent years. Bridge superstructures are typically subjected to rotation or even overturning failure under extreme wave conditions. However, existing experimental studies have scarcely accounted for these effects under extreme wave conditions. Thus, a steel rotating shaft system was employed in this study to implement the rotational effects of the superstructure. Subsequently, the influence of bridge piers and adjacent structures was considered, followed by a series of fluid-structure interaction experiments and numerical simulations to more accurately investigate the wave forces and dynamic response of the rotatable box-girder superstructure (BGSS) under extreme wave conditions. Moreover, a comparison of existing wave force calculation formulas was conducted, and an empirical formula for predicting the wave forces on the BGSS, incorporating the rotational effects under extreme wave loadings, was proposed. The results demonstrate that accounting for the rotational effects of the BGSS enables a more realistic and accurate representation of the dynamic response of the superstructure under practical conditions. Furthermore, a reduction in the wave period or the submersion coefficient of the superstructure leads to an increase in the inclination and wave forces acting on the BGSS. The empirical formula proposed in this study is capable of accurately predicting the wave forces acting on the BGSS, considering rotational effects, when subjected to extreme waves.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"200 ","pages":"Article 104774"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-05-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143936515","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Assessing shoreline orientation variation across diverse coastal environments","authors":"Mayowa Basit Abdulsalam ,&nbsp;Camilo Jaramillo ,&nbsp;Lucas de Freitas ,&nbsp;Mauricio González ,&nbsp;José A.Á. Antolínez","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104770","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104770","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Understanding and predicting shoreline variability at various temporal and spatial scales is vital for effective, data-driven coastal management. Shoreline position, a reliable indicator of beach morphological changes, has been assessed using complex numerical models. Recently, equilibrium-based shoreline evolution models (EBSEMs) have gained traction for their efficiency in simulating shoreline orientation, including cross-shore and rotational (longshore) changes. However, existing EBSEMs for shoreline rotation have been applied predominantly to microtidal beaches, with limited validation across diverse coastal environments.</div><div>This study evaluates the performance and scalability of the EBSEM proposed by Jaramillo et al. (2021) in modelling shoreline rotational variability at seven embayed beaches: Narrabeen Beach (Australia), Tairua Beach (New Zealand), Blackpool Beach (United Kingdom), Poniente Beach, Llevant Beach, Cala Millor Beach, and Moncofa Beach (Spain). These sites represent diverse environmental conditions in terms of sediment size, tidal regimes, monitoring frequency, and data types. The model was tested across full monitoring periods, elevation contours, and temporal resolutions.</div><div>Results show that EBSEM performs well across contrasting beach types, effectively capturing short-term and seasonal shoreline rotation patterns. However, reduced accuracy was observed in environments with high-energy events or human interventions, such as Poniente, Llevant, and Cala Millor beaches. Sensitivity analyses highlight the importance of temporal resolution and intertidal elevation in model performance.</div><div>While the EBSEM shows significant potential for broader application, further refinement is needed to better capture storm-driven and anthropogenic variability. These improvements would enhance its utility for coastal adaptation planning, hazard mitigation, and long-term shoreline management in the face of climate change.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"200 ","pages":"Article 104770"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-04-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143899684","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A fully spectral framework for nonlinear water waves propagating over topography","authors":"Maciej Paprota","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104759","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104759","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>A problem of nonlinear water waves propagating over uneven bottom is considered. The proposed solution is based on a fully spectral Fourier-Galerkin method. Hence, higher-order terms appearing in free-surface and bottom boundary conditions are calculated entirely in a wave number space as convolution sums. In this way, the nonlinear terms may be efficiently determined using either a direct convolution method for smaller kernels or an FFT-based procedure for larger spectral domains. An implementation-ready form of a linear system of equations that bonds velocity potential coefficients at the surface and at the bottom is reported. In static topography conditions, the fast solution of the system is achieved due to precomputed factorization. The numerical model is applied to waves propagating over a bottom of various geometries, including abrupt topographies with upright slopes approximating transformation of waves over a shelf due to a considerable decrease in water depth. The accuracy of the solution is confirmed for a propagation of linear and nonlinear waves of permanent form including solitons, linear and nonlinear shoaling, reflection and transmission of linear waves at an underwater step, and landslide generated linear waves. An application of the method to a tsunami wave undergoing transformation over an abrupt bottom junction is presented along with the discussion on nonlinear wave processes strongly affecting the resulting transmitted tsunami profile.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"200 ","pages":"Article 104759"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-04-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143891096","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Adaptive covariance tapering for large datasets and application to spatial interpolation of storm surge","authors":"Christopher Irwin ,&nbsp;Alexandros A. Taflanidis ,&nbsp;Norberto C. Nadal-Caraballo ,&nbsp;Luke A. Aucoin ,&nbsp;Madison C. Yawn","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104768","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104768","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Covariance tapering is a popular approach for accommodating computational efficiency for the application of Gaussian process (GP) -based spatial interpolation for large datasets. This is accomplished by introducing sparsity in the <span>GP</span> covariance matrix, through the introduction of a compactly supported taper function. The support of the taper function around each spatial node is defined through the taper range variable. The latter is selected to achieve the desired degree of global sparsity in the covariance matrix, and defines the number of connected neighbors (i.e., local sparsity) around each node. For problems with irregular nodal density, adaptive covariance tapering can be used to improve accuracy for the taper implementation. In this case, the taper ranges of the taper function have spatial variability, allowing uniform local sparsity to be achieved despite the data irregularities. The optimization of the taper ranges to accomplish this objective has a computational burden that is dependent on the size of the database, prohibiting its application to very large datasets. This paper formally considers the adoption of adaptive covariance tapers for such datasets. Though algorithmic developments are general, the problem is discussed for a specific application, the spatial interpolation of storm surge. For establishing computational efficiency in the optimization of the taper ranges we propose to utilize only a small subset of nodes, termed inducing points. An adaptive, iterative formulation is further developed to support the selection of the inducing points, shown to be critical for achieving the desired local sparsity for the remaining points. At each iteration, the taper range selection is performed using the current subset of inducing points, the achieved sparsity across all nodes is estimated, and then new inducing points are added within the sub-regions for which the discrepancy from the target local sparsity is the largest. The latter points are considered to have the highest expected utility as inducing points. Adding inducing points in close proximity is avoided through the inclusion of a clustering step. The implementation is demonstrated for interpolation of peak storm surge along the New Jersey coast, using two different domains, one with 64,379 nodes and one with 271,669 nodes.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"201 ","pages":"Article 104768"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-04-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144312895","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Wave runup extraction on dissipative beaches: New video-based methods","authors":"Meye J. van der Grinten ,&nbsp;Jakob C. Christiaanse ,&nbsp;Ad J.H.M. Reniers ,&nbsp;Falco Taal ,&nbsp;Jens Figlus ,&nbsp;José A.A. Antolínez","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104757","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104757","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Wave runup observations are important for coastal management providing data to validate predictive models of inundation frequencies and erosion rates, which are vital for assessing the vulnerability of coastal ecosystems and infrastructure. Automated algorithms to extract the instantaneous water line from video imagery struggle under dissipative conditions, where the presence of a seepage face and the lack of contrast between the sand and the swash impede proper extraction, requiring time-intensive data quality control or manual digitization. This study introduces two novel methods, based on color contrast (CC) and machine learning (ML). The CC method combines texture roughness — local entropy — with saturation. Images are first binarized using entropy values and then refined through noise reduction by binarization of the saturation channel. The ML method uses a convolutional neural network (CNN) informed by five channels: the grayscale intensity and its time gradient, the saturation channel, and the entropy and its time gradient. Both methods were validated against nine manually labeled, 80 min video time series. The CC method demonstrated strong agreement with manually digitized water lines (RMSE = 0.12 m, <span><math><mrow><mi>r</mi><mo>=</mo><mn>0</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>94</mn></mrow></math></span> for the vertical runup time series; RMSE = 0.08 m, <span><math><mrow><mi>r</mi><mo>=</mo><mn>0</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>97</mn></mrow></math></span> for the 2% runup exceedance (<span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn><mtext>%</mtext></mrow></msub></math></span>); and RMSE = 3.88 s, <span><math><mrow><mi>r</mi><mo>=</mo><mn>0</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>70</mn></mrow></math></span> for the mean period (<span><math><msub><mrow><mi>T</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>m</mi><mo>−</mo><mn>1</mn><mo>,</mo><mn>0</mn></mrow></msub></math></span>)). The ML model compared well with the manually labeled time series (RMSE = 0.10 m, <span><math><mrow><mi>r</mi><mo>=</mo><mn>0</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>96</mn></mrow></math></span> for the vertical runup time series; RMSE = 0.09 m, <span><math><mrow><mi>r</mi><mo>=</mo><mn>0</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>97</mn></mrow></math></span> for <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn><mtext>%</mtext></mrow></msub></math></span>; and RMSE = 3.51 s, <span><math><mrow><mi>r</mi><mo>=</mo><mn>0</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>79</mn></mrow></math></span> for <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>T</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>m</mi><mo>−</mo><mn>1</mn><mo>,</mo><mn>0</mn></mrow></msub></math></span>). Furthermore, the computed <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn><mtext>%</mtext></mrow></msub></math></span> values of both methods show a good agreement with the formula proposed by Stockdon et al. (2006) for extremely dissipative conditions, with RMSE-values lower than 0.13 m and correlations exceeding 0.70 for manual, CC, and ML estimates. While the CC method is deemed applicable for wave-by-wave analysis under similar dissipative conditions with ","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"200 ","pages":"Article 104757"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-04-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143898454","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Laboratory measurements of bed shear stress under spilling and plunging regular waves","authors":"Francis C.K. Ting,&nbsp;Miaad Mojadam,&nbsp;Linet C. Paul","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104769","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104769","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>The bed shear stress induced by breaking-wave-generated vortices on a plane slope was investigated for spilling and plunging regular waves. Three-component, three-dimensional (3C3D) velocity measurements were conducted from the free surface to the bottom in the inner surf zone using a Volumetric Three-Component Velocimetry (V3V) system. The 3C3D measurements were supplemented by high resolution two-dimensional (2D) velocity measurements inside the bottom boundary layer obtained using a Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) system. The bed shear stress was determined from the measured velocities in the viscous sublayer using the velocity gradient method. The measured data were used to study the evolution of the large eddies and the characteristics of their induced bed shear stresses. The results showed that, in both spilling and plunging waves, the basic three-dimensional (3D) structure of the large eddies was a coherent vortex loop consisting of two counter-rotating vortices with strong downward momentum. Breaking wave vortices impinged on the bottom under the wave crest in plunging waves and induced large bed shear stress fluctuations when the wave-induced (mean) flow was shoreward, while they reached the bottom later in spilling waves and mainly affected the negative bed shear stresses after flow reversal. When the boundary layer was not disturbed by breaking wave turbulence, the near-bed velocity profile was similar to that observed in non-breaking waves in the laminar/transitional turbulent flow regime. The viscous sublayer and most of the buffer layer were developed by the time of the wave crest and wave trough phases, but a logarithmic region did not always exist. It was found that the instantaneous velocities did not generally conform to a law-of-the-wall profile during vortex impingement and the Spalding wall function underpredicted the bed shear stress in some cases but overpredicted in others. It was also found that the fluid shear stress measured at only a small distance above the bed grossly overestimated the instantaneous bed shear stress, and that a good correlation between the two parameters was observed only when sweep type events occurred in the bed region.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"200 ","pages":"Article 104769"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-04-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143931484","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Laboratory experiment on the impact of wind on water turbulence in shallow areas","authors":"Peng Yao ,&nbsp;Jinshan Pu ,&nbsp;Yongping Chen ,&nbsp;Min Su ,&nbsp;Marcel J.F. Stive ,&nbsp;Zhengbing Wang","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104765","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104765","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>A series of laboratory experiments focused on the wind impact on the vertical turbulence structure in shallow water has been carried out. The turbulence characteristics in the mid-lower water column under relatively strong wave conditions are investigated. For different experimental conditions (i.e., waves only, wind only, combinations of wind and waves) in a wind-wave flume, the effects of wind and waves were investigated in detail by decomposing the total energy into different terms (i.e., wind-driven currents, wind waves, wind-induced turbulence). The results show that shallow water waves play a major role in transferring energy by non-zero wave-induced Reynolds stress (<span><math><mrow><mover><mrow><mover><mi>u</mi><mo>˜</mo></mover><mover><mi>w</mi><mo>˜</mo></mover></mrow><mo>‾</mo></mover></mrow></math></span>), turbulent diffusion (<span><math><mrow><mover><mrow><msup><mi>u</mi><mo>′</mo></msup><msup><mi>w</mi><mo>′</mo></msup></mrow><mo>‾</mo></mover></mrow></math></span>). The superimposed wind can further modify the energy transference due to its impact on wave asymmetry and skewness as well as through homogenizing the time-average velocity profiles. Subsequently, the impact of wind on turbulence structure was explored in detail. The most important finding is that the wind can directly influence water turbulent diffusion (<span><math><mrow><mover><mrow><msup><mi>u</mi><mo>′</mo></msup><msup><mi>w</mi><mo>′</mo></msup></mrow><mo>‾</mo></mover></mrow></math></span>) along with wave-induced turbulence. The vertical turbulence intensity (σ_w) is more sensitive to wind than the horizontal turbulence intensity (σ_u). Furthermore, the major way that wind affects water turbulence is by introducing nonlinear wind and wave interactions, which exhibit a maximum effect (∼60 % compared to the respective effect of wind and wave) at the edge of the bottom boundary layer. This study demonstrates that the wind can transfer momentum downward to mid-lower water columns even under strong waves in shallow waters, which differs from that in deep water systems.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"200 ","pages":"Article 104765"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-04-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143906379","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Equilibrium shoreline change model with non-stationary free parameters at Hasaki Beach, Japan","authors":"Xinyu Chen ,&nbsp;Masayuki Banno ,&nbsp;Nobuhito Mori","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104761","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104761","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>The ability to accurately predict shoreline response to changing wave conditions is crucial for coastal management, with equilibrium-based shoreline models demonstrating success in forecasting shoreline evolution across various temporal scales. However, the conventional use of time-invariant parameters in these models may limit their capability to capture the full range of beach responses, particularly during extreme events. This study investigates the non-stationary characteristics of free parameters in the equilibrium shoreline model <em>ShoreFor</em> and evaluates alternative wave-forcing variants to enhance model performance. Using a unique, high-frequency dataset of shoreline positions collected at daily to weekly intervals with low measurement uncertainty from 1991 to 2015 at Hasaki Beach, Japan, we implement both stationary and non-stationary parameter approaches. We develop a novel segmentation method where the 20-year calibration period (1991-2010) is divided into monthly segments to capture wave seasonal patterns, with model performance evaluated over a 10-year interval within calibration and a 5-year validation period. Comparative analysis of three wave-forcing variants—significant wave height (<span><math><msub><mrow><mi>H</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>s</mi></mrow></msub></math></span>), dimensionless settling velocity (<span><math><mi>Ω</mi></math></span>), and wave energy (<span><math><mi>P</mi></math></span>)—reveals that <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>H</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>s</mi></mrow></msub></math></span> provides more stable and superior performance at Hasaki Beach compared to the alternatives. Analysis of segment-derived relationships shows highly variable accretion efficiency coefficients (<span><math><msup><mrow><mi>C</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>a</mi></mrow></msup></math></span>) with a weak positive correlation between significant wave height and accretion efficiency, potentially indicating more efficient shoreline restoration during higher wave periods. Notably, these segment-derived parameter relationships maintain their validity when applied to longer continuous simulations, despite being calibrated within discrete temporal windows. The non-stationary model with <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>H</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>s</mi></mrow></msub></math></span> as forcing variant substantially improves model performance during calibration, increasing the correlation coefficient from 0.36 to 0.61, and better captures extreme erosion and accretion events throughout both calibration and validation periods. These findings demonstrate the importance of incorporating time-varying parameters in equilibrium-based models and guide the selection of appropriate wave-forcing variants for improving future shoreline change predictions under changing wave climate.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"200 ","pages":"Article 104761"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-04-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143890981","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Solitary wave evolution over a 3D submarine topography","authors":"Haocheng Lu,&nbsp;Qian Wang,&nbsp;Changze Zhao,&nbsp;Hua Liu","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104758","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104758","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This study provides a comprehensive examination of solitary wave propagation and breaking over a three-dimensional (3D) topography, both experimentally and numerically. The 3D topography, inspired by the Whalin (1971) experiment, is characterized by a sloped circle array with a 0.656 scale ratio. Using wave gauges, Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADV), and imaging equipment, wave elevations, water particle velocities, and wave breaking images were captured, respectively. Numerical simulations utilized the multiphase VOF-based solver <span>interFoam</span> with a realizable <span><math><mi>k</mi></math></span>–<span><math><mi>ɛ</mi></math></span> closure model, enhanced by a customized adaptive refinement strategy. Water particle velocities revealed insights into wave evolution, with experimental findings largely congruent with numerical predictions. Wave breaking dynamics were further explored by comparing experimentally observed and simulated whitecap regions. Energy budget analysis confirmed wave breaking as the dominant mechanism of energy dissipation, with bottom friction playing a minor role. In summary, this research offers a holistic understanding of solitary wave behavior over a 3D topography, bridging experimental observations with numerical simulations.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"200 ","pages":"Article 104758"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-04-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143882868","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}