Coastal Engineering最新文献

{"title":"Numerical and experimental investigation on ‘C-pile’ breakwaters for wave attenuation","authors":"Chen Peng,&nbsp;Dezhi Ning,&nbsp;Lifen Chen,&nbsp;Jin Xu,&nbsp;Hao Cao","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104775","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104775","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>The growing threat of wave-induced impacts to coastal sustainability necessitates effective wave attenuation strategies. Breakwaters play a pivotal role in mitigating wave energy, with resonant breakwaters leveraging Bragg and localized resonance mechanisms showing significant promise. This study investigates the wave attenuation performance of a novel C-shaped cylindrical (i.e., C-pile) breakwater through physical experiments and numerical simulations. The reflection coefficient, transmission coefficient, and time histories of water levels were measured through wave flume experiments, with the data used to validate a three-dimensional numerical model constructed in OpenFOAM and predictions from Bloch theory based on linear potential flow. Parametric numerical simulations were systematically conducted to explore the effects of opening width, chamber area, opening angle, and submergence depth on the wave attenuation performance and resonance behavior of individual C-piles. Localized optimization of C-pile arrays was conducted to enhance wave attenuation for specific wave period ranges. Results demonstrate that wave attenuation by C-piles is driven by chamber-wave interactions, where fluctuations in water level and volume within the chamber contribute to wave attenuation. The incident wave frequency and the resonant frequency of the C-pile follow a specific relationship. The latter has a close relationship with the structural dimensions. While parametric adjustments improved attenuation for target wave periods, uniform array modifications did not guarantee consistent performance gains. These findings establish the potential of C-piles as effective alternatives to traditional breakwaters, offering insights into resonance-based attenuation mechanisms and tailored optimization strategies.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"201 ","pages":"Article 104775"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-05-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144072502","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Corrigendum to “A fully spectral framework for nonlinear water waves propagating over topography” [Coast. Eng. 200 (2025) 104759]","authors":"Maciej Paprota","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104773","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104773","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"199 ","pages":"Article 104773"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-05-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144068572","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A framework to mitigate aeolian erosion on nourished beaches","authors":"Yanyu He ,&nbsp;Feng Cai ,&nbsp;Jianhui Liu ,&nbsp;Hongshuai Qi ,&nbsp;Bailiang Li ,&nbsp;Chao Cao ,&nbsp;Shaohua Zhao ,&nbsp;Gen Liu ,&nbsp;Xu Chen ,&nbsp;Jiaqi Huang","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104771","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104771","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Beach nourishment has become a widely adopted nature-based strategy for coastal protection worldwide. However, in regions prone to strong winds, the topographic changes induced by beach nourishment—particularly elevated nourished berms—can significantly alter near-surface wind fields and aeolian sand transport processes. This study integrates field observations with numerical modeling to examine how topographic modifications induced by beach nourishment can influence the coastal aeolian sand transport mechanisms. The key findings are as follows: (1) The elevated beach berms lead to a localized increase in wind speed and a segmented fetch system, with the latter plays a dominant role in limiting the development and transport of aeolian sand streamers; (2) By incorporating the interactions between the transport-stimulated effect of wind intensification and the transport-limited effect of fetch segmentation induced by nourished berm, a “piecewise” model framework was proposed for the aeolian sand transport of nourished beaches, which significantly improving the accuracy of numerical modeling; (3) Based on the improved sand transport model, an optimal beach nourishment design for windy coasts was discussed, and a multi-tiered, mechanically graded berm nourishment approach was recommended to minimize the aeolian sand transport across beach surface.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"201 ","pages":"Article 104771"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-05-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144068357","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Influence of bed ripples on scour-induced span elongation of pipelines/cables","authors":"Bingchang Zhang ,&nbsp;Scott Draper ,&nbsp;Hongwei An ,&nbsp;Hongyi Jiang ,&nbsp;Liang Cheng","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104777","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104777","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This study presents results from laboratory experiments designed to investigate the scour propagation along a pipeline/cable under steady current. Most previous research on this topic has shown that the scour propagation has a primary and secondary stage, with the transition to the secondary stage believed to occur when the scour hole reaches some critical length. However, results from the present study show that in small-scale model testing, bed ripples have a direct influence on scour rate, causing a transition from a primary to secondary stage as they develop. This is demonstrated by comparing scour propagation rates before and after ripples develop upstream of the pipeline/cable, and after ripples are removed by flattening the upstream bed. It is found that bed ripples appear to have both an indirect and direct influence on scour propagation. Indirectly, ripples reduce near-bed velocity by altering the boundary layer, while directly they deflect flow upwards, sheltering the pipeline/cable and reducing flow into the scour front. Additionally, the sediment flux entering the scour front may be altered by the proximity of upstream ripples, potentially leading to temporary cessation of scour propagation. The findings from this work have implications both for interpreting scour results in earlier research and for designing future experimental models.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"201 ","pages":"Article 104777"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-05-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144070123","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Experimental and numerical investigation of the dynamic response of coastal box-girder superstructures considering rotational effects under extreme wave loading","authors":"Bo Huang ,&nbsp;Minglin Chen ,&nbsp;Zhiying Yang ,&nbsp;Jianting Zhou ,&nbsp;Dan Zhong ,&nbsp;Jiawei Zhou","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104774","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104774","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Due to the rising frequency of extreme marine disasters, research on the interaction between coastal bridges and waves has gained significant attention in recent years. Bridge superstructures are typically subjected to rotation or even overturning failure under extreme wave conditions. However, existing experimental studies have scarcely accounted for these effects under extreme wave conditions. Thus, a steel rotating shaft system was employed in this study to implement the rotational effects of the superstructure. Subsequently, the influence of bridge piers and adjacent structures was considered, followed by a series of fluid-structure interaction experiments and numerical simulations to more accurately investigate the wave forces and dynamic response of the rotatable box-girder superstructure (BGSS) under extreme wave conditions. Moreover, a comparison of existing wave force calculation formulas was conducted, and an empirical formula for predicting the wave forces on the BGSS, incorporating the rotational effects under extreme wave loadings, was proposed. The results demonstrate that accounting for the rotational effects of the BGSS enables a more realistic and accurate representation of the dynamic response of the superstructure under practical conditions. Furthermore, a reduction in the wave period or the submersion coefficient of the superstructure leads to an increase in the inclination and wave forces acting on the BGSS. The empirical formula proposed in this study is capable of accurately predicting the wave forces acting on the BGSS, considering rotational effects, when subjected to extreme waves.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"200 ","pages":"Article 104774"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-05-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143936515","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Assessing shoreline orientation variation across diverse coastal environments","authors":"Mayowa Basit Abdulsalam ,&nbsp;Camilo Jaramillo ,&nbsp;Lucas de Freitas ,&nbsp;Mauricio González ,&nbsp;José A.Á. Antolínez","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104770","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104770","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Understanding and predicting shoreline variability at various temporal and spatial scales is vital for effective, data-driven coastal management. Shoreline position, a reliable indicator of beach morphological changes, has been assessed using complex numerical models. Recently, equilibrium-based shoreline evolution models (EBSEMs) have gained traction for their efficiency in simulating shoreline orientation, including cross-shore and rotational (longshore) changes. However, existing EBSEMs for shoreline rotation have been applied predominantly to microtidal beaches, with limited validation across diverse coastal environments.</div><div>This study evaluates the performance and scalability of the EBSEM proposed by Jaramillo et al. (2021) in modelling shoreline rotational variability at seven embayed beaches: Narrabeen Beach (Australia), Tairua Beach (New Zealand), Blackpool Beach (United Kingdom), Poniente Beach, Llevant Beach, Cala Millor Beach, and Moncofa Beach (Spain). These sites represent diverse environmental conditions in terms of sediment size, tidal regimes, monitoring frequency, and data types. The model was tested across full monitoring periods, elevation contours, and temporal resolutions.</div><div>Results show that EBSEM performs well across contrasting beach types, effectively capturing short-term and seasonal shoreline rotation patterns. However, reduced accuracy was observed in environments with high-energy events or human interventions, such as Poniente, Llevant, and Cala Millor beaches. Sensitivity analyses highlight the importance of temporal resolution and intertidal elevation in model performance.</div><div>While the EBSEM shows significant potential for broader application, further refinement is needed to better capture storm-driven and anthropogenic variability. These improvements would enhance its utility for coastal adaptation planning, hazard mitigation, and long-term shoreline management in the face of climate change.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"200 ","pages":"Article 104770"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-04-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143899684","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A fully spectral framework for nonlinear water waves propagating over topography","authors":"Maciej Paprota","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104759","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104759","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>A problem of nonlinear water waves propagating over uneven bottom is considered. The proposed solution is based on a fully spectral Fourier-Galerkin method. Hence, higher-order terms appearing in free-surface and bottom boundary conditions are calculated entirely in a wave number space as convolution sums. In this way, the nonlinear terms may be efficiently determined using either a direct convolution method for smaller kernels or an FFT-based procedure for larger spectral domains. An implementation-ready form of a linear system of equations that bonds velocity potential coefficients at the surface and at the bottom is reported. In static topography conditions, the fast solution of the system is achieved due to precomputed factorization. The numerical model is applied to waves propagating over a bottom of various geometries, including abrupt topographies with upright slopes approximating transformation of waves over a shelf due to a considerable decrease in water depth. The accuracy of the solution is confirmed for a propagation of linear and nonlinear waves of permanent form including solitons, linear and nonlinear shoaling, reflection and transmission of linear waves at an underwater step, and landslide generated linear waves. An application of the method to a tsunami wave undergoing transformation over an abrupt bottom junction is presented along with the discussion on nonlinear wave processes strongly affecting the resulting transmitted tsunami profile.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"200 ","pages":"Article 104759"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-04-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143891096","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Wave runup extraction on dissipative beaches: New video-based methods","authors":"Meye J. van der Grinten ,&nbsp;Jakob C. Christiaanse ,&nbsp;Ad J.H.M. Reniers ,&nbsp;Falco Taal ,&nbsp;Jens Figlus ,&nbsp;José A.A. Antolínez","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104757","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104757","url":null,"abstract":"&lt;div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Wave runup observations are important for coastal management providing data to validate predictive models of inundation frequencies and erosion rates, which are vital for assessing the vulnerability of coastal ecosystems and infrastructure. Automated algorithms to extract the instantaneous water line from video imagery struggle under dissipative conditions, where the presence of a seepage face and the lack of contrast between the sand and the swash impede proper extraction, requiring time-intensive data quality control or manual digitization. This study introduces two novel methods, based on color contrast (CC) and machine learning (ML). The CC method combines texture roughness — local entropy — with saturation. Images are first binarized using entropy values and then refined through noise reduction by binarization of the saturation channel. The ML method uses a convolutional neural network (CNN) informed by five channels: the grayscale intensity and its time gradient, the saturation channel, and the entropy and its time gradient. Both methods were validated against nine manually labeled, 80 min video time series. The CC method demonstrated strong agreement with manually digitized water lines (RMSE = 0.12 m, &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;r&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mo&gt;=&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;0&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;.&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;94&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt; for the vertical runup time series; RMSE = 0.08 m, &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;r&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mo&gt;=&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;0&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;.&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;97&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt; for the 2% runup exceedance (&lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;R&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mn&gt;2&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mtext&gt;%&lt;/mtext&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt;); and RMSE = 3.88 s, &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;r&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mo&gt;=&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;0&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;.&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;70&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt; for the mean period (&lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;T&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;m&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mo&gt;−&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;1&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;,&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;0&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt;)). The ML model compared well with the manually labeled time series (RMSE = 0.10 m, &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;r&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mo&gt;=&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;0&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;.&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;96&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt; for the vertical runup time series; RMSE = 0.09 m, &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;r&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mo&gt;=&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;0&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;.&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;97&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt; for &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;R&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mn&gt;2&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mtext&gt;%&lt;/mtext&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt;; and RMSE = 3.51 s, &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;r&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mo&gt;=&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;0&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;.&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;79&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt; for &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;T&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;m&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mo&gt;−&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;1&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;,&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;0&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt;). Furthermore, the computed &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;R&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mn&gt;2&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mtext&gt;%&lt;/mtext&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt; values of both methods show a good agreement with the formula proposed by Stockdon et al. (2006) for extremely dissipative conditions, with RMSE-values lower than 0.13 m and correlations exceeding 0.70 for manual, CC, and ML estimates. While the CC method is deemed applicable for wave-by-wave analysis under similar dissipative conditions with ","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"200 ","pages":"Article 104757"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-04-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143898454","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Laboratory measurements of bed shear stress under spilling and plunging regular waves","authors":"Francis C.K. Ting,&nbsp;Miaad Mojadam,&nbsp;Linet C. Paul","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104769","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104769","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>The bed shear stress induced by breaking-wave-generated vortices on a plane slope was investigated for spilling and plunging regular waves. Three-component, three-dimensional (3C3D) velocity measurements were conducted from the free surface to the bottom in the inner surf zone using a Volumetric Three-Component Velocimetry (V3V) system. The 3C3D measurements were supplemented by high resolution two-dimensional (2D) velocity measurements inside the bottom boundary layer obtained using a Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) system. The bed shear stress was determined from the measured velocities in the viscous sublayer using the velocity gradient method. The measured data were used to study the evolution of the large eddies and the characteristics of their induced bed shear stresses. The results showed that, in both spilling and plunging waves, the basic three-dimensional (3D) structure of the large eddies was a coherent vortex loop consisting of two counter-rotating vortices with strong downward momentum. Breaking wave vortices impinged on the bottom under the wave crest in plunging waves and induced large bed shear stress fluctuations when the wave-induced (mean) flow was shoreward, while they reached the bottom later in spilling waves and mainly affected the negative bed shear stresses after flow reversal. When the boundary layer was not disturbed by breaking wave turbulence, the near-bed velocity profile was similar to that observed in non-breaking waves in the laminar/transitional turbulent flow regime. The viscous sublayer and most of the buffer layer were developed by the time of the wave crest and wave trough phases, but a logarithmic region did not always exist. It was found that the instantaneous velocities did not generally conform to a law-of-the-wall profile during vortex impingement and the Spalding wall function underpredicted the bed shear stress in some cases but overpredicted in others. It was also found that the fluid shear stress measured at only a small distance above the bed grossly overestimated the instantaneous bed shear stress, and that a good correlation between the two parameters was observed only when sweep type events occurred in the bed region.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"200 ","pages":"Article 104769"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-04-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143931484","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Laboratory experiment on the impact of wind on water turbulence in shallow areas","authors":"Peng Yao ,&nbsp;Jinshan Pu ,&nbsp;Yongping Chen ,&nbsp;Min Su ,&nbsp;Marcel J.F. Stive ,&nbsp;Zhengbing Wang","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104765","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104765","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>A series of laboratory experiments focused on the wind impact on the vertical turbulence structure in shallow water has been carried out. The turbulence characteristics in the mid-lower water column under relatively strong wave conditions are investigated. For different experimental conditions (i.e., waves only, wind only, combinations of wind and waves) in a wind-wave flume, the effects of wind and waves were investigated in detail by decomposing the total energy into different terms (i.e., wind-driven currents, wind waves, wind-induced turbulence). The results show that shallow water waves play a major role in transferring energy by non-zero wave-induced Reynolds stress (<span><math><mrow><mover><mrow><mover><mi>u</mi><mo>˜</mo></mover><mover><mi>w</mi><mo>˜</mo></mover></mrow><mo>‾</mo></mover></mrow></math></span>), turbulent diffusion (<span><math><mrow><mover><mrow><msup><mi>u</mi><mo>′</mo></msup><msup><mi>w</mi><mo>′</mo></msup></mrow><mo>‾</mo></mover></mrow></math></span>). The superimposed wind can further modify the energy transference due to its impact on wave asymmetry and skewness as well as through homogenizing the time-average velocity profiles. Subsequently, the impact of wind on turbulence structure was explored in detail. The most important finding is that the wind can directly influence water turbulent diffusion (<span><math><mrow><mover><mrow><msup><mi>u</mi><mo>′</mo></msup><msup><mi>w</mi><mo>′</mo></msup></mrow><mo>‾</mo></mover></mrow></math></span>) along with wave-induced turbulence. The vertical turbulence intensity (σ_w) is more sensitive to wind than the horizontal turbulence intensity (σ_u). Furthermore, the major way that wind affects water turbulence is by introducing nonlinear wind and wave interactions, which exhibit a maximum effect (∼60 % compared to the respective effect of wind and wave) at the edge of the bottom boundary layer. This study demonstrates that the wind can transfer momentum downward to mid-lower water columns even under strong waves in shallow waters, which differs from that in deep water systems.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"200 ","pages":"Article 104765"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-04-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143906379","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}