Coastal EngineeringPub Date : 2025-02-06DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104723
Ching Theng Liong , Xiaoxiao Yang , Eng Soon Chan , Ying Min Low
{"title":"Mechanics of energy dissipation due to wave plunging","authors":"Ching Theng Liong , Xiaoxiao Yang , Eng Soon Chan , Ying Min Low","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104723","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104723","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Marine operations in harsh conditions often involve extreme environments. Despite advancements in numerical schemes, challenges persist in modelling these wave fields. An example is the application of potential flow methodology, which is efficient but limited by its inadequacy in accounting for energy dissipation due to wave breaking. Currently, empirical dissipation models with coefficients calibrated against experimental observations are often used. However, how these coefficients vary across the broad range of wave breaking scenarios, ranging from incipient breaking to extreme wave plunging is not well understood. The purpose of this paper is to account for the variability of these coefficients through a better understanding of the dissipation mechanics. Using a validated two-phase Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) model, which reproduces the essential physics of a plunging wave, we not only reinforce existing observations on the total energy lost due to wave breaking but also show that, for a plunging wave, 77% of that energy loss is closely linked to the bifurcation of flow near the wave crest that contributed to wave breaking. Additionally, ∼19% of the energy loss may be attributed to the work done by the wave compressing the entrapped air. Together, the energy associated with both the plunging jet and the air entrapment could account for up to 96% of the total energy loss.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"198 ","pages":"Article 104723"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-02-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143377180","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Coastal EngineeringPub Date : 2025-02-06DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104720
Yefeng Cai , Haisheng Zhao , Xin Li , Wei Shi , Qing Xiao
{"title":"Developing an OpenFOAM solver for coupled aero-hydrodynamic analysis of integrated structure with floating offshore wind turbine and aquaculture net cage","authors":"Yefeng Cai , Haisheng Zhao , Xin Li , Wei Shi , Qing Xiao","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104720","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104720","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>The integrated structure of floating offshore wind turbines (FOWTs) and aquaculture net cages has garnered significant attention in recent years. This study establishes, for the first time, a CFD analysis method for the integrated structure of FOWTs and aquaculture cages, and develops a specialized solver, HybridMarineFoam, for coupled analysis of the integrated structure. The solver currently includes aerodynamic, hydrodynamic, mooring, and aquaculture cage computation modules. The aquaculture cage module is based on the Darcy-Forchheimer model, incorporating the influence of the floating platform's motion into the Darcy-Forchheimer equation and accounting for the hydrodynamic impact of the cage on the floating platform, thus achieving coupled calculations between the fish cage and the floating platform. In this study, the force loading calculation for the moving aquaculture cage and the coupling simulation for the integrated structure have been very well validated. Subsequently, an integrated structure, combining an IEA 15 MW FOWT and an aquaculture cage, was proposed, and the HybridMarineFoam solver was used to analyze its aerodynamic, hydrodynamic, and flow field characteristics under different wind speeds, wave heights and water current speeds. The results reveal that the presence of the cage significantly impacts the system dynamics motion response and flow field characteristics of the floating wind turbine.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"198 ","pages":"Article 104720"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-02-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143377181","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Coastal EngineeringPub Date : 2025-02-06DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104701
Menno P. de Ridder , Dennis C.P. van Kester , Patricia Mares-Nasarre , Marcel R.A. van Gent
{"title":"Individual overtopping volumes, water layer thickness and front velocities at rubble mound breakwaters with a smooth crest in shallow water","authors":"Menno P. de Ridder , Dennis C.P. van Kester , Patricia Mares-Nasarre , Marcel R.A. van Gent","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104701","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104701","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Individual overtopping events are important variables when designing a coastal structure as they can deviate significantly from the mean overtopping discharge. Thus, in this study, extreme overtopping events at rubble mound structures with a smooth crest in shallow water have been studied. Both the water layer thickness (flow depth), front velocity and individual overtopping volumes are measured in a wave flume for typical coastal structures with a smooth crest in shallow water for a large range of hydraulic conditions and three different foreshore slopes. An analysis of the individual overtopping volumes shows that the largest individual overtopping volumes arise from short waves that travel on the crest of a low-frequency wave in shallow water and short waves that travel on top of the trough in deep water. Due to the temporal water level variation caused by the low-frequency waves in shallow water, there are fewer overtopping events compared to deep water conditions with the same non-dimensional overtopping discharge. However, the individual overtopping volumes of these events are larger. To quantify the extreme overtopping variables, an empirical formulation based on the relative crest height and short-wave steepness is proposed for the non-dimensional 2 % exceedance water layer thickness, front velocity and individual overtopping volume in terms of incident waves with an <span><math><msup><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn></mrow></msup></math></span> of 0.84, <span><math><msup><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn></mrow></msup></math></span> of 0.55 and <span><math><msup><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn></mrow></msup></math></span> of 0.85 respectively. A further small improvement is found when the low-frequency wave height and 2% exceedance wave height are included, but the added value of this expression does not outweigh the additional wave variables needed for the expression. A log-normal distribution with a constant shape and an expression for the scale of the distribution is proposed to describe the distribution of the individual overtopping volumes in shallow water which accurately captures the distribution (<span><math><msup><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn></mrow></msup></math></span> of 0.90). Compared to most of the current design approach which is based on a cascade of empirical formulations, this is a significant improvement. In addition, the reasonable results for a distribution with a constant shape parameter show that the shape of the distribution does not change significantly for shallow water conditions.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"198 ","pages":"Article 104701"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-02-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143388067","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Coastal EngineeringPub Date : 2025-02-05DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104721
Wonhyun Lee, Alexander Y. Sun, Bridget R. Scanlon
{"title":"Probabilistic storm surge and flood-inundation modeling of the Texas gulf coast using super-fast INundation of CoastS (SFINCS)","authors":"Wonhyun Lee, Alexander Y. Sun, Bridget R. Scanlon","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104721","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104721","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Accurately predicting flood extent and depths, encompassing storm surge, pluvial, and fluvial flooding, is important for protecting coastal communities. However, high computational demands associated with detailed probabilistic models highlight the need for simplified models to enable rapid forecasting. In this study we developed an ensemble-based probabilistic forecast framework using a reduced-complexity, hydrodynamic solver – the Super-Fast INundation of CoastS (SFINCS) model. The framework was showcased over Hurricane Ike that significantly impacted the Texas Gulf Coast in 2008. Results demonstrate the capability of the SFINCS model to generate probabilistic predictions (e.g., ≤4 h for a 100-member ensemble on a single multi-core CPU). The model agrees well with observed data from NOAA tidal, USGS stream gage height, and FEMA high water mark stations. Compared to a deterministic approach, the ensemble method reduced errors by an average 16% across all water level and hydrograph stations. Sensitivity analysis indicated consistent patterns of flood inundation across varying ensemble sizes (81, 189, 1,000) and lead times (1–3 days before landfall), with a slight increase in uncertainty for smaller ensembles and longer lead times. In particular, counties adjacent to the Trinity River Basin had ≥80% probability of exceeding the critical 3-m flooding depth during Hurricane Ike. Our study highlights the effectiveness of the SFINCS-based ensemble framework in providing probabilistic flood extent/depth forecasts over long lead times in a timely manner. Thus, the framework constitutes a valuable tool for effective flood preparedness and response planning during flooding events.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"198 ","pages":"Article 104721"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-02-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143372740","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Coastal EngineeringPub Date : 2025-02-05DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104722
Nan Wang , Guoxiang Wu , Kemeng Wang , Zaijin You , Xiuyu Zhuang
{"title":"Explainable data-driven modeling of suspended sediment concentration at a deltaic marsh boundary under river regulation and storm events","authors":"Nan Wang , Guoxiang Wu , Kemeng Wang , Zaijin You , Xiuyu Zhuang","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104722","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104722","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Sediment supply is a critical factor influencing the evolution of river deltas and deltaic marshes. This study presents an innovative approach using explainable data-driven modeling, specifically integrating bagged regression trees with Shapley additive explanations (SHAP), to predict suspended sediment concentration (SSC) at the boundary of an intertidal salt marsh in the Yellow River Delta. The model achieves high predictive accuracy, with an <em>R</em><sup>2</sup> of 0.978 and an <em>RMSE</em> of 0.099 kg/m<sup>3</sup> for training, and an <em>R</em><sup>2</sup> of 0.899 and an <em>RMSE</em> of 0.118 kg/m<sup>3</sup> for testing, supported by 5-fold cross-validation and ensemble learning. SHAP analysis identifies significant wave height and SSC from the upper river as the main factors influencing SSC at the marsh boundary. The predominant influence of wave heights over other factors suggests that wave-induced local resuspension governs the sediment supply to the marsh, rather than remote sediment advection from the river mouth, which was previously regarded as the primary source. This may explain the continued expansion of the marshes despite a declining riverine sediment discharge in recent years. Additionally, the developed model links SSC at the marsh boundary to key hydrodynamic parameters, allowing for defining dynamic sediment boundary conditions in modeling marsh evolution under changing environments, instead of using oversimplified, static sediment boundary conditions in common practice. By integrating predictive accuracy with interpretability, this method can provide deeper insights into sediment dynamics of the deltaic marsh, therefore supporting comprehensive management of river regulations and delta resilience building.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"198 ","pages":"Article 104722"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-02-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143372769","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Coastal EngineeringPub Date : 2025-02-01DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104715
Xuanlie Zhao , Shiqi Pan , Qingping Zou , Jing Geng
{"title":"Slamming loads induced by dam-break flow on land-based oscillating water columns: Numerical and experimental study","authors":"Xuanlie Zhao , Shiqi Pan , Qingping Zou , Jing Geng","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104715","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104715","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>A 3D Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) flow solver with a Volume of Fluid (VOF) surface capturing scheme is used to investigate the dam-break flow induced slamming impacts on land-based oscillating water columns (OWC). Comprehensive experiments are conducted to validate the numerical model. It is found that the compressible RANS-VOF solver more accurately captures the key physical processes in this complex fluid-structure interaction process than the incompressible solver. The complete process of dam-break flow impact on OWCs is analyzed in detail, focusing on the relationship between peak forces, moments, slamming pressures, and fluid behaviors. It is found that the peaked vertical loads due to air pressure on the deck of the OWC chamber are non-negligible, particularly for small opening ratios (<3.5%), which has not been previously reported. Additionally, the air pressure on the deck significantly contributes to the moment of the OWC caisson. The distribution of slamming pressure on the front wall, corresponding to peak loading, resembles that of breaking waves in realistic seas. This implies that dam-break flow tests can be used to capture the fundamental physics behind the strong nonlinear waves interacting with OWCs. Numerical simulations are performed to examine the influence of the opening ratio of the OWC chamber on slamming characteristics. It is found that slamming loads on the OWC decrease rapidly with increasing opening ratio in from 0% to 3.5%. However, when the opening ratio exceeds the critical value of 3.5%, the slamming loads change only slightly. Furthermore, during the slamming process, the air pressure inside the chamber is proportional to the velocity of the water surface inside the chamber.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"198 ","pages":"Article 104715"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-02-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143351037","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Coastal EngineeringPub Date : 2025-01-31DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104716
Mohammad Saidee Hasan , Ali Dastgheib , Arne van der Hout , Dano Roelvink
{"title":"Ship-induced wave forces on a moored ship in the presence of uniform current","authors":"Mohammad Saidee Hasan , Ali Dastgheib , Arne van der Hout , Dano Roelvink","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104716","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104716","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Due to the increase in ship sizes and traffic, the effect of passing ships on the mooring forces of moored ships is becoming an increasingly more important aspect in restricted waterways, channels, and ports. The objective of the presented work is to investigate the effects of the presence of an ambient current on the hydrodynamic forces on moored ships when another vessel passes through the waterway.</div><div>In this research, XBeach-NH in (nonhq3d) mode is used to simulate passing ship effects, corresponding to test conditions as measured in physical model tests carried out at Deltares as a part of the JIP Ropes (Joint Industry Project, Research on Passing Effects on Ships) project (van der Hout and de Jong, 2014). Even though various layouts were tested in the Ropes project; the current paper focuses on the straight channel layout with different combinations of ship velocity and ambient current speed. Results show that XBeach slightly overestimates the draw down effects (water level depression) due to the primary waves, as well as the surge forces. And, the differences in surge forces between XBeach and measurement increases with increasing Froude number. However, sway forces and yaw moments are in better agreement with the measured data, even for higher Froude numbers, though slightly underestimated. This variation in results is consistent in almost all XBeach simulations. Results also indicate that ship velocities relative through water are more important than ship speed over ground in the presence of uniform current. However, in modelling exercises, it is advisable to run simulations implementing actual currents rather than simply adding or subtracting the current velocity to/from ship speed over ground to obtain a representative relative vessel through water, since in the latter case the duration of hydrodynamic force excitation on the moored vessel will not be realistic. Furthermore, simulations show that by only representing the correct relative speed through water in the simulations (and not the correct speed over ground), the surge force & yaw moment magnitude are underestimated in case of counter currents and sway forces are underestimated in case of following currents.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"198 ","pages":"Article 104716"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-01-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143388066","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Coastal EngineeringPub Date : 2025-01-28DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104702
Gioele Ruffini , Riccardo Briganti , Jacob Stolle , Paolo De Girolamo
{"title":"Numerical analysis and prediction of the effect of debris initial configurations on their dispersion during extreme-hydrodynamic events","authors":"Gioele Ruffini , Riccardo Briganti , Jacob Stolle , Paolo De Girolamo","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104702","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104702","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Tsunamis and other extreme hydrodynamic events have the potential to transport large debris that, along with the flow, are capable of causing severe damage to coastal structures and infrastructures. Therefore, modelling such processes is essential when assessing the multiple hazards associated to this type of events. In harbour areas, transport inland of shipping containers and subsequent impacts are relevant examples of waterborne debris hazards. The present work addresses two gaps in the scientific research of this problem using numerical methods; the understanding of the effect of containers initial layouts and that of the flow impact angle on the transport and diffusion. To fill these gaps a numerical study was carried out using idealised flow conditions. To this end a Smoothed Particles Hydrodynamics solver (DualSPHysics), coupled with a Discrete Element Method model (Project CHRONO), was used and initially validated with experiments published in the literature. Subsequently, four layouts commonly used in shipping containers yards were simulated, including incident flow depth and impact angle variability, resulting in 76 total simulations. The results were analysed in terms of normalised standard deviation and normalised range differences with respect to the initial values of both parameters. These parameters were related to the flow impact angle, water depth to containers height ratio <span><math><mrow><mi>D</mi><mi>h</mi><mi>R</mi></mrow></math></span>, and normalised displacement of the container clusters centroids. Standard deviation and range are shown to reach, for almost all results, a quasi-steady state by the end of the simulations. It is shown that the standard deviation and range are more sensitive to the impact angle for <span><math><mrow><mi>D</mi><mi>h</mi><mi>R</mi><mo>≤</mo><mn>1</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>7</mn></mrow></math></span>. In this case, the configurations with flow impacting orthogonally to one of the containers axes show larger values of the two parameters than for intermediate angles. For larger values, <span><math><mrow><mi>D</mi><mi>h</mi><mi>R</mi></mrow></math></span> drives the standard deviation and range, independently from the impact angle. <span><math><mrow><mi>D</mi><mi>h</mi><mi>R</mi></mrow></math></span> is shown to be a physical parameter that well describes the relative importance of dispersion and advection of containers transported in extreme hydrodynamic events. Finally, existing relationships, that assume an infinite growth of the range, are shown to overestimate numerical results at the stage in which dispersion does not grow further. Two new regression formulae are numerically derived to predict the dispersion parameters at this stage. They include the effects of the cluster layout, impact angle <span><math><mi>α</mi></math></span> and <span><math><mrow><mi>D</mi><mi>h</mi><mi>R</mi></mrow></math></span> making them a valid alternative to existing relationships.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"198 ","pages":"Article 104702"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-01-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143139198","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Coastal EngineeringPub Date : 2025-01-27DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104705
Maximilian Herbst , Nils B. Kerpen , Talia Schoonees , Torsten Schlurmann
{"title":"Full-scale experimental study on wave impacts at stepped revetments","authors":"Maximilian Herbst , Nils B. Kerpen , Talia Schoonees , Torsten Schlurmann","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104705","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104705","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Stepped revetments are known to be more effective in limiting wave overtopping and wave run-up than sloped revetments. However, literature on wave-induced impact pressures and comprehensive guidelines on the practical design for these structures is scarce. Laboratory experiments support the development of design recommendations. To date, studies for wave impacts at stepped revetments have mainly been carried out at small scales. This study characterizes wave-induced impact pressures at full scale, derives practical design formulae and evaluates findings against established methods for vertical walls and sloping structures. Additionally, an insight into the influence of scale is given by comparing wave impact characteristics for design cases between tests at multiple scales. Flume experiments with a slope of 1:3 and uniform step heights of 0.17 m and 0.50 m were investigated in the Large Wave Flume (GWK) in Hannover, Germany. Horizontal and vertical wave-induced pressure impacts were measured at 15 distinct locations for a large range of wave-breaking types (1.8 < ξ<sub>m-1,0</sub> < 2.8). Wave impact characteristics on stepped revetments align more closely with those observed on vertical walls than on sloped structures. Horizontal impacts are dominant over vertical impacts across the entire tested parameter range and thus critical for design considerations. Results show that previous small-scale tests significantly overestimate the maximum wave-induced impact pressures by a factor of 5.0 and maximum forces by a factor of 2.4. Impact loads occur significantly faster than at small scale. Design quasi-static pressures above the still-water level can be calculated and maximum horizontal impact pressures can be scaled using existing methods for vertical walls. Practical design formulae are derived for horizontal and vertical design pressures for different types of wave-breaking, for the vertical distribution of horizontal wave-induced impact pressures as well as for the temporal characteristics of these pressures at stepped revetments.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"198 ","pages":"Article 104705"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-01-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143139199","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Coastal EngineeringPub Date : 2025-01-23DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104704
Ruicong Wu , Anxin Guo , Sijia Zhu , Jiabin Liu
{"title":"Growth of wind-driven waves under uniform currents","authors":"Ruicong Wu , Anxin Guo , Sijia Zhu , Jiabin Liu","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104704","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104704","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This study experimentally investigated the growth of wind-driven waves under uniform currents. The wind-driven wave spatiotemporal evolution characteristics were collected along the fetch, and visual techniques were used to measure the phase velocity and flow field characteristics. Based on the experimental results, the variation patterns of dimensionless peak frequency and energy over time and space were analyzed, and their relationships with the dimensionless current velocity, fetch, and wave age were determined. The currents significantly influence the trend in dimensionless energy, with their effect on peak frequency and dimensionless energy primarily reflected in the exponential term. The exponent coefficient of peak frequency for the co-current is approximately <span><math><mrow><msub><mi>U</mi><mi>c</mi></msub><mo>/</mo><msup><mi>u</mi><mo>∗</mo></msup></mrow></math></span>, while for the counter-current, it is <span><math><mrow><mn>6</mn><msup><mi>χ</mi><mrow><mo>∗</mo><mo>−</mo><mn>0.26</mn></mrow></msup><msub><mi>U</mi><mi>c</mi></msub><mo>/</mo><msup><mi>u</mi><mo>∗</mo></msup></mrow></math></span>, where <span><math><mrow><msub><mi>U</mi><mi>c</mi></msub></mrow></math></span> is the current velocity, <span><math><mrow><msup><mi>u</mi><mo>∗</mo></msup></mrow></math></span> is the wind friction velocity, and <span><math><mrow><msup><mi>χ</mi><mo>∗</mo></msup></mrow></math></span> is the dimensionless fetch. Both co- and counter-currents increase the turbulent kinetic energy. The co-current minimally affects the velocity field distribution, with the Q4 quadrant dominating in the quadrant analysis. In contrast, the counter-current significantly alters the velocity field, shifting the Reynolds stress dominance from Q4 to Q2 and resulting in a more evenly distributed four-quadrant pattern, enhancing the upward momentum transfer. These changes in momentum transfer significantly affect the spatiotemporal evolution of wind-driven waves under uniform currents.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"198 ","pages":"Article 104704"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-01-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143139246","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}