Coastal Engineering最新文献

{"title":"High fidelity numerical modelling of European brushwood groyne fluid-structure-interaction: Parametrization through Darcy–Forchheimer, reflection and transmission coefficients","authors":"Felix Spröer ,&nbsp;Oliver Lojek ,&nbsp;Christina Bischoff ,&nbsp;Dorothea Bunzel ,&nbsp;Maike Paul ,&nbsp;Nils Goseberg","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104659","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104659","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>The shoreline retreat of salt marshes and tidal flats due to both accelerated rates of sea level rise (SLR) and altered sediment dynamics as a result of the interlinked impacts of climate change is becoming increasingly visible on a global scale. In particular, salt marsh retreat amplifies pressure on the main coastal protection facilities in areas of coastal squeeze and at the same time leads to the loss of unique biodiverse wetland ecosystems that provide a wide range of key ecosystem services. Salt marshes are generally able to dynamically adapt to SLR through vertical sediment accretion and lateral expansion under hydrodynamically calmed conditions, as long as sufficient sediment budgets are available. However, in areas of little or no foreshore growth, facilitating sufficient sediment accretion is essential to ensure optimal coastal foreshore management. In Northern Europe, brushwood groyne fields used for centuries provide such hydrodynamically calmed settlement spaces that facilitate sediment accretion, yet they are insufficiently investigated and parametrized in regard to their flow-retentive effectiveness. Hence, this study parametrizes European brushwood groynes in the framework of a Darcy–Forchheimer model through a three-dimensional numerical modelling suite within the numerical framework REEF3D:CFD to quantify the fluid–structure interaction of European brushwood groynes systematically. Through validation with an existent laboratory dataset, steady-state current as well as oscillatory wave brushwood groyne interaction is investigated, providing details on flow retention, wave transmissivity and reflectivity. For the first time, laminar and turbulent resistance coefficients of European brushwood groynes are presented that enable the representation of European brushwood groynes in phase-resolved numerical modelling approaches. Furthermore, in-depth wave transmission and reflection coefficients are derived for a vast range of hydrodynamic conditions and numerous relevant brushwood groyne construction variations relevant to coastal protection. The numerical results revealed transmission coefficients in the range of 0.15 to 0.87 and reflection coefficients in the range from 0.17 to 0.73. State of the art and novel parametrized fit-equations are derived from the wave transmission and reflection coefficients, providing readily available tools to estimate European brushwood groyne transmissivity and reflectivity. In turn, this study serves as a first primer for optimizing the design of European brushwood groyne fields and comparable coastal protection structures aimed at facilitating sediment deposition and foreshore stabilization in order to foster the protective capabilities of coastal wetlands and their ecosystem services now and in the future.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"197 ","pages":"Article 104659"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-11-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142759301","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Cross-shore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics modeling of an erosive event in the inner surf zone","authors":"Jiaye Zhang ,&nbsp;Benjamin Tsai ,&nbsp;Yashar Rafati ,&nbsp;Tian-Jian Hsu ,&nbsp;Jack A. Puleo","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104662","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104662","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>The phase-averaged and depth-integrated coastal morphodynamic model, XBeach-Surfbeat, was investigated for its capability of predicting the cross-shore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics in the inner surf zone by simulating the storm-induced berm erosion, sediment transport, and subsequent sand bar formation. By utilizing a comprehensive hydrodynamic and morphodynamic dataset measured in a large wave flume and high-fidelity 3D large-eddy simulation (LES) data, a rigorous model validation was conducted to assess its capability in predicting inner-surf zone hydrodynamics and to explore how the improved hydrodynamic performance impacts the predicted morphodynamics. Using the default model parameters of the model, the undertow was overestimated with the peak magnitude being 30%–35% larger in the inner surf zone. Combining Monte Carlo simulation, the optimum hydrodynamic calibration for the simulated undertow was achieved when the roller energy dissipation parameter (<span><math><mrow><mi>β</mi><mo>)</mo></mrow></math></span> was maintained below 0.1, and the threshold water depth (<span><math><mrow><msub><mi>h</mi><mi>min</mi></msub></mrow></math></span>) exceeded 0.25 m. The calibrated undertow improved the morphodynamic predictions by reducing the excessive berm erosion (Event I) and sand bar growth in the inner surf zone (Event II). Further improved morphodynamic predictions were achieved by calibrating sediment transport parameters, including the onshore sediment transport coefficient (<span><math><mrow><msub><mi>γ</mi><mrow><mi>u</mi><mi>a</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></math></span>) and the bore interval coefficient (<span><math><mrow><msub><mi>T</mi><mrow><mi>b</mi><mi>f</mi><mi>a</mi><mi>c</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></math></span>) associated with turbulence-bed interaction. A consistent set of optimized model coefficients for the model is shown to be effective in simulating the entire erosive event (combined Events I and II). This study reveals that further improvement of the model's capability may require incorporating new parameterizations and physics, such as wave-breaking-induced turbulence and wave nonlinearity associated with sediment transport in the inner surf and swash zones.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"196 ","pages":"Article 104662"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-11-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142757629","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A comparison of linear and nonlinear 3D semi-Lagrangian motion of moored Waverider and Spotter wave buoys","authors":"Yue Ding ,&nbsp;Paul H. Taylor ,&nbsp;Thobani Hlophe ,&nbsp;Wenhua Zhao","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104661","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104661","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Wave records from oceanographic buoys remain indispensable in coastal and offshore engineering. Modern wave buoys produce semi-Lagrangian time histories of motions in three dimensions (one vertical and two horizontal) in addition to the standard statistical output. Datawell Directional Waverider (DWR) buoys have long been recognized as providing high quality measurements, while other types of wave buoys have been introduced more recently. This study analyses field data measured by two types of wave buoys: one DWR4 and three Sofar Spotter buoys, all moored on intermediate water depth offshore Western Australia. The time histories recorded by the two types of wave buoys in three orthogonal directions and the relationship between them are comprehensively examined on a wave-by-wave basis. Although focusing on mild sea states, the analysis identifies significant second-order motion components in the horizontal plane for both DWR4 and Spotter buoys. It is confirmed that both DWR and Spotters work well and consistently in the vertical direction. However, we present considerable evidence that the DWR4 buoy overestimates the displacements in the horizontal plane by a factor of approximately 1/0.85 times, while the Spotter buoys’ displacements match well with theoretical predictions in the horizontal plane. Despite this apparent calibration error, both the mean wave direction and the directional spreading match well between the two buoy types, with the DWR4 giving slightly lower spreading angles at higher frequency. These observations shed new insights into the wave buoy motions in 3D on intermediate water depth.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"196 ","pages":"Article 104661"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-11-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142744509","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Experimental study on tsunami-driven debris damming loads on columns of an elevated coastal structure","authors":"Myung Jin Koh ,&nbsp;Hyoungsu Park ,&nbsp;Jayasekara R. Jayasekara ,&nbsp;Sabarethinam Kameshwar ,&nbsp;Kellen Doyle ,&nbsp;Daniel Cox ,&nbsp;Pedro Lomonaco","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104656","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104656","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This study presents experimental findings on debris damming loads on columns of an elevated coastal structure under tsunami-like wave conditions. A total of 183 cases (140 with and 43 without debris) were tested at a 1:20 scale to understand the impact of various factors on debris-driven damming loads, including wave characteristics, structure configurations, and debris shapes. The debris impact and damming processes were observed and quantified from optical measurements, and corresponding loads were measured on the entire structure using a force balance plate and on an individual column in the front row using a multi-axial load cell. The experimental results indicated the horizontal debris damming load on the entire column structure increased by up to 3.2 times compared to conditions without debris, while the load on the individual column increased by up to 11.0 times. The total damming loads for the whole structure increased, but the load for the individual column decreased at a reduced opening ratio. The smaller debris sizes relative to column spacing showed significantly lower chances of debris damming across different column configurations. Overall, the load on the whole structure showed stronger correlations between debris damming loads and hydro-kinematic variables such as flow depth, velocity, momentum flux, and Froude number compared to the loads on the individual column. Among these variables, momentum flux emerged as the most consistently influential across all categories.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"196 ","pages":"Article 104656"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-11-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142703029","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A probabilistic coral rubble mechanical instability model applied with field observations from the Great Barrier reef","authors":"Dongfang Liu,&nbsp;David P. Callaghan,&nbsp;Ananth Wuppukondur,&nbsp;Tom E. Baldock","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104655","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104655","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Unstable coral rubble hinders coral recruitment and recovery of coral reefs after damage from cyclones and bleaching events. If coral rubble remains unstable under typical everyday environmental conditions, areas of coral rubble will not be able to recover. Evaluating the probability of rubble instability over regional scale reef systems can assist the optimization of coral reef restoration efforts. Currently, robust and verified models for such applications do not exist. This paper presents a comprehensive assessment method to predict the probability of coral rubble instability, which combines a fluid-structural interaction approach with a statistical regional wave climate model. The hydrodynamic model employs non-linear wave theory to determine near-bed velocity, pressure gradients, and the corresponding drag and inertia forces acting on the coral rubble. The instability model assesses when overturning or sliding forces exceed resisting forces, considering thousands of combinations of different coral sizes and densities to calculate the proportion of instability under a given wave forcing. The model was calibrated and validated using prior laboratory experiments as reported by Kenyon et al. (2023b). The hydrodynamic and instability models use an extensive dataset of non-cyclonic wave climates (hindcast from over 30 years of wind measurements) specific to the region around Heron Reef, Great Barrier Reef, Australia, enabling a comprehensive evaluation of the probability of rubble instability in this area. Results indicate that the overall probability of rubble instability <span><math><mrow><mo>(</mo><msub><mi>Pr</mi><mn>3</mn></msub><mo>)</mo></mrow></math></span> reaches 0.74 in water depths less than 2 m (typical of reef crests or reef flats), while it declines to below 0.21 at a depth of 12 m (typical deeper parts of the fore reef). Coral rubble on reef crests near Heron Reef, which are sheltered by surrounding formations, demonstrates low probability of instability. Thus, coral rubble instability is influenced by both its specific location within the reef and the position of the reef relative to other nearby reefs. By integrating the rubble instability model with non-cyclonic wave climate data, a map of the probability of rubble instability was generated for eight reefs in the Capricorn and Bunker Group (CBG). This map provides valuable guidance for coral reef restoration efforts, significantly reducing the need for extensive field-based data.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"195 ","pages":"Article 104655"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-11-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142652934","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Numerical modelling of pump-driven tsunami generation and fluid-structure-interaction in idealized urbanized coastal areas during run-up","authors":"Felix Spröer ,&nbsp;León-Carlos Dempwolff ,&nbsp;Christian Windt ,&nbsp;Clemens Krautwald ,&nbsp;David Schürenkamp ,&nbsp;Nils Goseberg","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104654","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104654","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Tsunami wave inundations are still one of the most devastating natural disasters worldwide. Tsunamis striking a settlement frequently devastate much of its infrastructure. In instances where infrastructure withstands the tsunami’s actions, it acts as a flow resistance for the wave’s run-up, altering inundation dynamics and flow depth. Accurately predicting the complex dynamics of tsunami wave run-up in densely populated urban areas is paramount for informing effective evacuation protocols and conducting comprehensive hazard and risk assessments. In pursuit of improving wave run-up prediction capabilities, this study delves into the three-dimensional numerical modelling of wave run-up of non-breaking, long tsunami waves in urbanized areas. Leveraging insights from a physical experiment with pump-driven wave generation and idealized infrastructure, a novel pressure-based wave generation boundary condition is developed. The boundary condition achieves an average of 4.9% accuracy in replicating the water surface elevation from experiments. Additionally, it attains an average 1.5% precision in reproducing flow velocities, furthermore reproducing the spatial flow dynamics accurately. Physical experiment wave run-up is modelled with an average 6.9% deviation for both simulations with and without idealized infrastructure. 63.0% higher non-linearity waves than in the physical experiments are additionally investigated to highlight the boundary conditions capabilities of high non-linearity wave generation, change in run-up reduction for higher non-linearity waves for infrastructure interaction and furthermore in-depth flow field characteristics during tsunami inundation. Finally, the study highlights deviations from analytically calculated wave run-up, emphasizing the necessity for numerical and physical experimental evaluation for both high non-linearity waves and tsunami infrastructure interaction, ultimately fostering both resilience and preparedness against tsunami hazards.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"196 ","pages":"Article 104654"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-11-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142660968","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Energy balance during Bragg wave resonance by submerged porous breakwaters through a mixture theory-based δ-LES-SPH model","authors":"Yong-kun Chen ,&nbsp;Domenico D. Meringolo ,&nbsp;Yong Liu ,&nbsp;Jia-ming Liang","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104652","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104652","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This paper presents a numerical analysis of the time behaviors of mechanical and internal fluid energies during the Bragg wave resonance induced by two-arrayed trapezoidal submerged porous breakwaters based on a reformatted <em>δ</em>-LES-SPH model (Di Mascio et al., 2017). In the present work, a mixture theory is introduced into the <em>δ</em>-LES-SPH model by reformulating the governing equations with the incorporation of a volume fraction. In this approach, the viscous and diffusive terms are also modified by the volume fraction. The energy equation is then written for the presented model highlighting the presence of two additional components compared with the classical <em>δ</em>-LES-SPH formulation: one coming from the fluid compression and another one due to the dissipation both induced by the interaction of the porous structure with the fluid phase. The numerical results are validated by available experimental data for a gravity-driven mass flow passing through a porous dam case and two Bragg wave resonance by two-arrayed submerged trapezoidal porous breakwaters cases. A numerical analysis is then conducted on Bragg wave resonance by two-arrayed trapezoidal porous breakwaters, by investigating the effects of the distance between the two breakwaters and their porosity. Interesting insights about the type and magnitude of dissipation occurring during the wave-structure interaction are captured by analyzing the time evolutions of each energy component.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"196 ","pages":"Article 104652"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-11-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142660967","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Experimental investigation on cross-shore profile evolution of reef-fronted beach","authors":"Yuan Li ,&nbsp;Chi Zhang ,&nbsp;Shubin Chen ,&nbsp;Hongshuai Qi ,&nbsp;Weiqi Dai ,&nbsp;Huimin Zhu ,&nbsp;Titi Sui ,&nbsp;Jinhai Zheng","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104653","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104653","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Physical experiments on cross-shore profile evolution of the reef-fronted beach are conducted considering various offshore wave conditions and reef settings. Cross-shore beach profile evolution, sediment transport rate, and waves at the beach toe are analyzed. The reef-fronted beach is found to be resilient to erosion induced by offshore sediment transport. In present cases, the beach evolves from a sloping profile to a reflective profile, and onshore sediment transport leads to the formation of a swash berm. Both the shortwaves and infragravity waves at the beach toe play an important role in forming the beach shape. The berm foreshore slope mainly depends on the wave energy density in the infragravity band at the beach toe. Wave energy density in the shortwave band at the beach toe increases with reef submergences, while wave energy density in the infragravity band at the beach toe increases with offshore wave heights. The temporal evolution of sediment transport rate exhibits two modes, implying complex feedbacks occur between swash flows and beach profile evolution. The bulk transport on the reef-fronted beach is parameterized by the relative height of shortwaves and wave steepness of both shortwaves and infragravity waves at the beach toe. A conceptual model of bulk transport on the beach is proposed that the bulk transport increases with the Gourlay number, indicating that reef-fronted beaches with a well-developed reef flat are resilient to increasing wave exposure.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"195 ","pages":"Article 104653"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-11-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142652930","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Interactions between swell and colinear wind short crested waves, following and opposing","authors":"Fabio Addona ,&nbsp;Maria Clavero ,&nbsp;Luca Chiapponi ,&nbsp;Sandro Longo","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104649","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104649","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>When wind blows over a water surface during a swell, it generates short-crested, three-dimensional waves that interact with the underlying flow field through a mechanism that ultimately increases the average energy. In the present work, two test cases in which wind is flowing following and opposing a swell are analysed with experiments and are compared with wind–waves-only and swell-only cases. The analysis of the free surface fluctuation and of the flow field, with the three components of fluid velocity measured at the same time through a stereo particle image velocimetry system, leads to an accurate quantification of the energy distribution, of the structure of the oscillating, fluctuating (due to wind–waves) and turbulent kinetic energy, without assumptions on the structure of the flow. The findings demonstrate that the transverse dynamics is a pivotal factor in the transfer of energy in the near-free surface domain, and elucidate the energy transfer between wind–waves and swell. The results also confirm the reduction of oscillating kinetic energy of the swell in the presence of short wind–waves, a process interpreted with different possible mechanisms. There is evidence of the enhancement of wind action in the presence of swell compared to that in the case of wind–waves-only, confirming that energy transfer from the wind to the sea is enhanced when wind flows over a swell. Consequently, when the fetch is influenced by swells generated or propagated from different regions, and during multi-peak sea storms, wave generation models should account for this amplification.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"195 ","pages":"Article 104649"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-11-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142652931","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Remote sensing of wave-orbital velocities in the surfzone","authors":"Tyler McCormack ,&nbsp;Julia Hopkins ,&nbsp;Britt Raubenheimer ,&nbsp;Steve Elgar ,&nbsp;Katherine L. Brodie","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104631","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104631","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Wave-orbital velocities are estimated with particle image velocimetry (PIV) applied to rapid sequences of images of the surfzone surface obtained with a low-cost camera mounted on an amphibious tripod. Time series and spectra of the remotely sensed cross-shore wave-orbital velocities are converted to the depth of colocated acoustic Doppler velocimeters (ADVs), using linear finite depth theory. These converted velocities are similar to the velocities measured in situ (mean nRMSE for time series = 16% and for spectra = 10%). Small discrepancies between depth-attenuated surface and in situ currents may be owing to errors in the surface velocity measurements, uncertainties in the water depth, the vertical elevation of the ADVs, and the neglect of nonlinear effects when using linear finite depth theory. These results show the potential to obtain spatially dense estimates of wave velocities using optical near-field remote methods during field campaigns and continuous monitoring operations.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"195 ","pages":"Article 104631"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-11-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142652933","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}