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Coupling of Navier–Stokes and Boussinesq equations based on SPH and finite difference algorithms for wave propagation to breaking 基于SPH和有限差分算法的Navier-Stokes和Boussinesq方程耦合波传播至破波
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术
Coastal Engineering Pub Date : 2026-04-15 Epub Date: 2026-01-31 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104964
Xin-ying Wu , Yong-kun Chen , Zhong-bo Liu , Xiao Liu , Yong Liu
{"title":"Coupling of Navier–Stokes and Boussinesq equations based on SPH and finite difference algorithms for wave propagation to breaking","authors":"Xin-ying Wu ,&nbsp;Yong-kun Chen ,&nbsp;Zhong-bo Liu ,&nbsp;Xiao Liu ,&nbsp;Yong Liu","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104964","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104964","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This paper develops a two-way coupled model to effectively simulate wave propagation, transformation, and breaking induced by interactions with coastal structures. This is achieved by coupling a Boussinesq model solved using the finite difference method (referred as the B–FD model) and a SPH model based on the Navier–Stokes equations (referred as the NS–SPH model) for solving the wave propagation and wave–structure interactions, respectively. To this aim, a two-way open boundary algorithm is introduced to achieve the bidirectional transmission of incident and reflected waves. The main idea of this algorithm is to match the boundary conditions in the B–FD sub-model based on the water level–discharge relationship, while to ensure the mass conservation in the NS–SPH sub-model the mass fluxes at the boundary segments are calculated to dynamically generate or remove particles. Furthermore, a multi-time-step strategy is applied to synchronize the time integration between the two sub-models. The present coupled model is validated through several typical cases, including solitary wave propagation and breaking, regular wave propagation, and regular wave motion over breakwaters. The results confirm the reliability of the proposed model, in which it is proved that the proposed two-way open boundary algorithm ensures continuous free-surface evolution, maintains the stability of the fluid pressure field, and provides reasonable predictions of the velocity field.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"206 ","pages":"Article 104964"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2026-04-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"146174348","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Experimental investigation of mechanisms leading to tsunami-driven debris damming on elevated structures 海啸驱动的高架结构碎片筑坝机制的实验研究
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术
Coastal Engineering Pub Date : 2026-04-15 Epub Date: 2026-01-23 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104952
Jayasekara R. Jayasekara , Kellen Doyle , Myung Jin Koh , Sabarethinam Kameshwar , Hyoungsu Park , Daniel Cox , Pedro Lomonaco
{"title":"Experimental investigation of mechanisms leading to tsunami-driven debris damming on elevated structures","authors":"Jayasekara R. Jayasekara ,&nbsp;Kellen Doyle ,&nbsp;Myung Jin Koh ,&nbsp;Sabarethinam Kameshwar ,&nbsp;Hyoungsu Park ,&nbsp;Daniel Cox ,&nbsp;Pedro Lomonaco","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104952","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104952","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This study aims to understand tsunami-driven debris damming mechanisms by quantifying the debris dam characteristics, including their effects on damming forces, and assessing the key influencing factors of debris, flow, and the built environment that define debris dam characteristics. Experiments were conducted at a 1:20 scale to mimic tsunami-driven debris damming at an isolated column structure. The test combinations consisted of six wave conditions, three column arrangements, and two types of debris shipping containers. Dam characteristics, including dam volume and the number of debris objects in the dam, were measured through visual measurements, while the submerged frontal area of the dam was estimated using a photogrammetric method. Corresponding loads were measured on the entire structure and an individual column in the front row using a force balance plate and a multi-axial load cell, respectively. As per findings, the submerged frontal area, later converted to the blockage ratio, has the highest correlation with the increased damming load on the structure. The mechanisms leading to debris damming were determined through the effects on the blockage ratio by three interaction types: debris-debris, debris-flow, and debris-flow-structure interactions. Out of three interactions, debris-flow-structure interactions were found to be the highest influential mechanism leading to debris damming. As individual parameters, debris characteristic length, initial debris volume, closure ratio of structure, and relative size of debris were identified as positively contributing factors to increasing the blockage ratio, while higher Froude number of waves, debris dispersion, and debris velocity can decrease the blockage ratio.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"206 ","pages":"Article 104952"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2026-04-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"146080660","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Climate change-driven shoreline change along the Catalan coast (NW Mediterranean): A probabilistic approach for risk-informed coastal management 气候变化驱动的海岸线变化沿加泰罗尼亚海岸(地中海西北部):风险知情沿海管理的概率方法
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术
Coastal Engineering Pub Date : 2026-04-15 Epub Date: 2026-01-27 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104965
Rut Romero-Martín , Johan Reyns , Ali Dastgheib , Roshanka Ranasinghe , José A. Jiménez
{"title":"Climate change-driven shoreline change along the Catalan coast (NW Mediterranean): A probabilistic approach for risk-informed coastal management","authors":"Rut Romero-Martín ,&nbsp;Johan Reyns ,&nbsp;Ali Dastgheib ,&nbsp;Roshanka Ranasinghe ,&nbsp;José A. Jiménez","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104965","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104965","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This study quantifies shoreline retreat for multiple sea-level rise (SLR) projections at two contrasting sites along the Spanish Mediterranean coast: the Llobregat delta and Maresme beaches. The Llobregat delta comprises mildly sloped dissipative beaches, while the Maresme coast is characterized by steeper coarse-sediment beaches. Using the probabilistic PCR model, which incorporates both the effects of the long-term wave climate and Sea level rise, we evaluate site-specific responses and compare outcomes with the widely used Bruun rule. The Bruun rule overestimates retreat by up to 70 % at Llobregat compared to PCR projections under the SSP5-8.5 scenario. At the same time, the results of the two approaches converge at Maresme for both SSPs considered, both at 2050 and 2100. Thus, the discrepancies between the two approaches appear to be larger at sites with milder slopes. The PCR model projects an accelerating retreat from mid-century, reflecting strong nonlinear interactions between future hydrodynamic forcing and storm erosion. These findings underscore the potential pitfalls of relying solely on Bruun rule derived projections for local scale coastal adaptation planning. Moreover, they highlight how PCR model derived physics based, probabilistic projections of shoreline retreat could lead to more informed and effective decisions on local scale adaptation along vulnerable coastlines.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"206 ","pages":"Article 104965"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2026-04-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"146080723","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Ecologically engineered seawall revetments for enhancing marine biodiversity: elevation and design options 加强海洋生物多样性的生态工程海堤护岸:高程和设计方案
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术
Coastal Engineering Pub Date : 2026-04-15 Epub Date: 2026-01-22 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104962
Junbao Huang , Peng Yun , Yu Han , Qing Lyu , Huayu Chen , Zengfeng Li , Jiali Gu , Jian Zeng , Zhenming Ge
{"title":"Ecologically engineered seawall revetments for enhancing marine biodiversity: elevation and design options","authors":"Junbao Huang ,&nbsp;Peng Yun ,&nbsp;Yu Han ,&nbsp;Qing Lyu ,&nbsp;Huayu Chen ,&nbsp;Zengfeng Li ,&nbsp;Jiali Gu ,&nbsp;Jian Zeng ,&nbsp;Zhenming Ge","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104962","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104962","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Hardened, flat concrete seawalls generally cause the degradation of coastal environment and habitat quality, resulting in low marine biodiversity. Therefore, it's timely to mitigate the adverse impacts of traditional seawalls and enhance the ecological function of coast construction. In Eastern China, we investigated the effects of tidal elevation levels and eco-engineered seawall revetments, i.e., surface-treated (surface-roughened, hole-punched, and shell-embedded), on the richness and biodiversity of marine organisms. During the observation period, Mollusca, Arthropoda, and algae were the dominant species attaching on the experimental seawall blocks. In total, 8, 18, and 10 species of marine organisms were found colonizing the blocks at high, mid, and low tidal levels, respectively, exhibiting a convex binomial trend. Due to high evaporation rate of seawater remaining on the blocks at high-tide level, the lowest species number, organism abundance, and biodiversity were observed. The taxon richness and biodiversity indices were the highest at mid-tide level, whereas their values decreased at low-tide level because of intensive flooding and sediment deposition. Furthermore, the surface-treated blocks enhanced species numbers, organism abundance, and biodiversity indices of attached marine organisms relative to the untreated flat blocks. The hole-punched and shell-embedded blocks supported the greatest values of taxon richness of attaching organisms, while the effect of simple roughening treatments was relatively weak. At low tidal elevation, the biodiversity indices on the shell-embedded blocks were higher than those on the hole-punched blocks. This <em>in situ</em> experiment revealed that tidal elevation, surface habitat heterogeneity and water-holding ability are the crucial factors controlling marine biodiversity. As oyster shells are a safe and plentiful bioresource in China, we recommend using them for constructing nature-based seawall revetments. The results obtained in this study provide experimental evidence for optimizing the ecological functions of seawalls to ensure the synergistic benefits of coastal protection and biodiversity maintenance.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"206 ","pages":"Article 104962"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2026-04-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"146015810","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
A generalized method based on transfer learning and human-in-the-loop for wave-by-wave identification of nearshore wave breaking patterns 基于迁移学习和人在环的近岸破波模式逐波识别的广义方法
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术
Coastal Engineering Pub Date : 2026-04-15 Epub Date: 2026-01-21 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104954
Francisco J. Sáez , Patricio A. Catalán , Carlos Valle , A. Spicer Bak , Raúl P. Flores , Florent Fournier , Sebastián Veliz
{"title":"A generalized method based on transfer learning and human-in-the-loop for wave-by-wave identification of nearshore wave breaking patterns","authors":"Francisco J. Sáez ,&nbsp;Patricio A. Catalán ,&nbsp;Carlos Valle ,&nbsp;A. Spicer Bak ,&nbsp;Raúl P. Flores ,&nbsp;Florent Fournier ,&nbsp;Sebastián Veliz","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104954","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104954","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Wave breaking is a fundamental process in the nearshore zone. Yet, due to its chaotic nature, automatically identifying its spatio-temporal occurrence on a wave-by-wave basis remains a challenge. To address this, a generalized machine learning-based methodology is proposed for detecting wave-breaking events across a wide range of environmental and hydrodynamic conditions. The approach builds on a previously trained U-Net architecture using curated data for Duck (USA), which is extended using Transfer Learning (TL) and Human-in-the-Loop (HITL) techniques, enabling effective model adaptation to new coastal sites and conditions with minimal labeled data. The methodology is tested at three distinct locations: Duck, North Carolina (USA); the mouth of the Maipo River in San Antonio (Chile); and Saint-Pierre Beach, at Palavas-les-Flots (France). In addition, three types of users of varying proficiency are considered to assess how easy it would be to adopt the methodology. The resulting models achieve accuracies in wave breaking identification between 80% and 90%, depending on the site, with qualitative assessments confirming robust performance even under challenging conditions, such as variable lighting and wave-structure interaction. The open-source implementation aims to facilitate community use and adaptation. As a result, accurate identification of breaking patterns is expected to be a valuable tool for advancing our understanding of nearshore processes.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"206 ","pages":"Article 104954"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2026-04-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"146080795","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Experimental assessment and prediction of wave loading around abrupt depth transitions 深度突变附近波浪荷载的实验评估与预测
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术
Coastal Engineering Pub Date : 2026-04-15 Epub Date: 2026-02-02 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104969
O. Millar, L. Ma, I. Karmpadakis
{"title":"Experimental assessment and prediction of wave loading around abrupt depth transitions","authors":"O. Millar,&nbsp;L. Ma,&nbsp;I. Karmpadakis","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104969","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104969","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Abrupt depth transitions cause significant changes in the characteristics of the wave field, increasing the non-linearity of the wave train and the likelihood of extreme events. The free surface elevation and wave kinematics exhibit different spatial behaviour depending on the local bathymetry. As a result, the critical location for wave loading cannot be identified from the free field properties alone. This study presents the results of a comprehensive experimental analysis of wave loading on a vertical cylinder around a shoal bathymetry. Extreme crest heights are most prevalent immediately downstream of the crest of the shoal, while extreme loads are found to be most frequent above the crest. However, this is influenced by the presence of wave breaking, which generates enhanced loading events of increased magnitude. The prediction of wave loading using Morison’s equation is investigated, with wave kinematics estimated using linear random wave theory and a numerical model (SWASH). The findings demonstrate the importance of the empirical inertia coefficient, which must reflect both the loading regime and the choice of kinematics model.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"206 ","pages":"Article 104969"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2026-04-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"146174352","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
The influence of the pile Reynolds number on monopile scour prediction across experimental length scales under combined wave-current loading 波浪-电流联合荷载下,桩雷诺数对跨实验长度尺度单桩冲刷预测的影响
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术
Coastal Engineering Pub Date : 2026-04-15 Epub Date: 2026-01-20 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104951
Mazen Hoballah Jalloul , Ramish Satari , Alexander Schendel , Mario Welzel , Nils B. Kerpen , Jan Visscher , Insa Neuweiler , Torsten Schlurmann
{"title":"The influence of the pile Reynolds number on monopile scour prediction across experimental length scales under combined wave-current loading","authors":"Mazen Hoballah Jalloul ,&nbsp;Ramish Satari ,&nbsp;Alexander Schendel ,&nbsp;Mario Welzel ,&nbsp;Nils B. Kerpen ,&nbsp;Jan Visscher ,&nbsp;Insa Neuweiler ,&nbsp;Torsten Schlurmann","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104951","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104951","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Monopiles are the most commonly used offshore wind foundation structures in Europe. Given how scour affect their stability and life-time performance, literature is rich in formulating and testing of equations capable of predicting equilibrium scour depth and time scale. However, considerable inaccuracies occur when applying prevailing scour prediction approaches to larger scales. This mismatch is partly due to a lack in reliable data gained from large scale experiments. A parameter that significantly increases in large scale experiments is the pile Reynolds number. The influence of the pile Reynolds number has been previously overlooked and neglected from integration in design formulae, despite its influence on how the horseshoe and lee-wake vortex systems interact with the sediment bed. In this study, two new experimental data sets (with pile diameters of 0.12/0.20 m and 0.57 m) covering a pile Reynolds number range of <span><math><mrow><mn>1.4</mn><mo>×</mo><msup><mn>10</mn><mn>4</mn></msup><mspace></mspace><mi>t</mi><mi>o</mi><mspace></mspace><mn>4.4</mn><mo>×</mo><msup><mn>10</mn><mn>5</mn></msup></mrow></math></span> for combined wave and current loading are presented and complemented with data from previous studies. Using the comprehensive data set that comprises more than 100 points, the proposed time scale equation for a pile Reynolds number greater than <span><math><mrow><mn>2.5</mn><mo>×</mo><msup><mn>10</mn><mn>4</mn></msup></mrow></math></span> improves the <span><math><mrow><msup><mi>R</mi><mn>2</mn></msup></mrow></math></span> from 0.14 to 0.70 when the pile Reynolds number is incorporated. Furthermore, an improved equilibrium scour depth equation is proposed, reaching an <span><math><mrow><msup><mi>R</mi><mn>2</mn></msup></mrow></math></span> of 0.67 for all data points.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"206 ","pages":"Article 104951"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2026-04-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"146015756","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Wave–current interactions within microtidal systems 微潮系统中的波流相互作用
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术
Coastal Engineering Pub Date : 2026-03-15 Epub Date: 2025-12-12 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104932
Maurizio Brocchini, Francesco Marini, Agnese Baldoni
{"title":"Wave–current interactions within microtidal systems","authors":"Maurizio Brocchini,&nbsp;Francesco Marini,&nbsp;Agnese Baldoni","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104932","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104932","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This study presents the first structured and comprehensive analysis of wave–current interactions at microtidal river mouths, a topic often overlooked in estuarine flood studies. Using long-term observations and modeling from the Misa River (Italy), we reveal how opposing currents significantly alter incoming sea waves, through processes such as wave blocking, steepening, and infragravity wave upriver propagation, leading to increased flood risk and morphological changes. A key contribution of this work lies in the detailed physical analysis of wave–current interaction mechanisms, developed through a combined theoretical and observational approach. The superposition of opposing flows and wave fields modifies wave propagation, bottom boundary layer dynamics, sediment transport, and energy dissipation at river mouths. Observations at the Misa River from monitoring system showed a shift from frequent moderate floods to fewer but more intense events. This change triggered cyclical sediment dynamics and mouth bar reshaping, driven by alternating low-flow accumulation and flood-induced erosion. The upriver propagation of IGWs, typically linked to tidal forcing, was detected despite negligible tides, confirming the dominant role of wave–current interactions. These dynamics, also documented at other microtidal rivers (e.g., Rhône, Mississippi), govern key processes such as sediment transport, nearshore wave patterns, and compound flooding. When river floods coincide with high sea levels, due to storm surge or sea level rise, the extent of flooding can increase substantially, particularly in low-lying urban areas. We give evidence of such process through the results of a novel numerical analysis performed at the Misa River estuary. The paper is an elaboration of the keynote lecture given by the first Author on the same topic at the 38th International Conference on Coastal Engineering.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"205 ","pages":"Article 104932"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2026-03-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145797681","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
On the buoyancy production term for Reynolds-averaged modelling of breaking waves 论破碎波雷诺数平均模型的浮力产生项
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术
Coastal Engineering Pub Date : 2026-03-15 Epub Date: 2025-12-29 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104935
Liangyi Yue, Yuzhu Pearl Li
{"title":"On the buoyancy production term for Reynolds-averaged modelling of breaking waves","authors":"Liangyi Yue,&nbsp;Yuzhu Pearl Li","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104935","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104935","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>The buoyancy production term has been recognized as essential in turbulence closure models to address the persistent overestimation of turbulence near the air–water interface in Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) simulations of breaking waves. While generally effective, two-equation <span><math><mi>k</mi></math></span>–<span><math><mi>ω</mi></math></span> based turbulence models typically use a simple representation of the buoyancy-production term with a constant closure coefficient in the turbulent kinetic energy equation. This can cause turbulence levels to collapse near the interface, essentially to zero within numerical accuracy, resulting in a loss of coupling between the two turbulence model equations. Such a breakdown inhibits the accurate initiation and evolution of turbulence, particularly during wave breaking onset. In this study, we address the decoupling problem by introducing a variable, turbulence-Reynolds-number-based closure coefficient for the buoyancy-production term. This adaptive formulation directly relates the strength of buoyancy production to local turbulence levels. For simulating spilling breaking waves, period-averaged surface elevation profiles show better agreement with experimental measurements. Wave-to-wave variability analysis further highlights the stabilizing effect of the proposed formulation. The notably improved undertow predictions support the use of this variable-coefficient approach in future RANS simulations of surface waves.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"205 ","pages":"Article 104935"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2026-03-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145883954","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Wave-induced horizontal diffusivity from optically sensed dye tracer fields in impermeable beach laboratory experiments 不透水海滩实验室实验中光感染料示踪场波浪诱导的水平扩散系数
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术
Coastal Engineering Pub Date : 2026-03-15 Epub Date: 2025-11-29 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104925
Thomas Pendergast , Ryan P. Mulligan , Benjamin Davidson , Alexandra Schueller , Kelsey Fall , Dawson Ethier , Nimish Pujara , Jack A. Puleo , Jason Olsthoorn
{"title":"Wave-induced horizontal diffusivity from optically sensed dye tracer fields in impermeable beach laboratory experiments","authors":"Thomas Pendergast ,&nbsp;Ryan P. Mulligan ,&nbsp;Benjamin Davidson ,&nbsp;Alexandra Schueller ,&nbsp;Kelsey Fall ,&nbsp;Dawson Ethier ,&nbsp;Nimish Pujara ,&nbsp;Jack A. Puleo ,&nbsp;Jason Olsthoorn","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104925","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104925","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Contaminants in nearshore regions can have negative consequences for aquatic life, public health, and the economic value of beaches. The associated risk in these regions depends on the relative concentrations of the contaminant at different distances from the shore. To address this concern, we performed passive tracer studies during a series of experiments in a laboratory wave basin, releasing dye near-instantaneously into the swash zone and outside of the breaking zone under monochromatic waves of varying heights and incident angles. By tracking dye patch evolution with cameras, we approximated horizontal diffusivity of the dye from the time rate of change of its variance in the cross-shore and alongshore directions. We performed approximately 50 dye release experiments with a combination of three wave heights and three wave angles. From these experiments, we approximate cross-shore and alongshore diffusivities (<span><math><mrow><msub><mrow><mi>κ</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>x</mi></mrow></msub><mo>,</mo><msub><mrow><mi>κ</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>y</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></math></span>) and explore parameterizations of these diffusivities on the basis of cross-shore location and wave conditions. The results indicate an order of magnitude increase in both <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>κ</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>x</mi></mrow></msub></math></span> and <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>κ</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>y</mi></mrow></msub></math></span> from the region of wave shoaling to the surf and swash zones. The nearshore diffusivity estimates show good agreement with previous empirical models and values reported in the literature, and for the first time provide insight on the detailed cross-shore distribution of horizontal diffusivity inside and outside of the wave breaking region.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"205 ","pages":"Article 104925"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2026-03-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145625162","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
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