Coastal EngineeringPub Date : 2024-11-28DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104671
Xin Wang , Min Luo , Harshinie Karunarathna , Jose Horrillo-Caraballo , Dominic E. Reeve
{"title":"Numerical investigation of freak wave slamming on a fixed deck structure","authors":"Xin Wang , Min Luo , Harshinie Karunarathna , Jose Horrillo-Caraballo , Dominic E. Reeve","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104671","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104671","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Wave impact loads on box-shaped structures highly depend on the wave morphology. This paper conducts a numerical study of freak wave impacts on a fixed, box-shaped deck. A numerical wave flume characterized by enhanced momentum conservation is developed, showing satisfactory accuracy and stability in reproducing freak wave impacts. By changing the horizontal locations of the deck, comparative analyses of the kinematics and dynamics on the front, top and bottom walls of the deck are performed. Based on the morphological features of the wavefront and overturning wave tongue, a quantitative approach for classifying the impact types is proposed. Four impact types are identified, including the unaerated impact of a non-breaking wave, the well-developed plunging breaker impacts with air entrapment on the top or front wall, and the broken wave impact. By investigating the characteristics of each impact type, it is found that the wave shapes and impact behaviours vary significantly on the front and top walls but show high similarities on the bottom wall. The well-developed plunging breaker applies the largest wave pressures and forces, especially when air entrapment happens. Significant negative pressures appear on the top and bottom walls, and the sharp right angles on the edges of the front wall play an important role in the generation of such negative pressures. The influences of entrapped air pockets on wave loads highly depend on their locations. In particular, the entrapped air results in large pressures and insignificant air cushioning effects on the front wall. The findings of the present study would advance the knowledge of the breaking wave impact on box-shaped deck structures, especially the behaviours of the air entrapment and the influence on impact loads, which could underpin the design and assessment of coastal and ocean structures with deck platforms.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"197 ","pages":"Article 104671"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-11-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143156236","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Coastal EngineeringPub Date : 2024-11-26DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104662
Jiaye Zhang , Benjamin Tsai , Yashar Rafati , Tian-Jian Hsu , Jack A. Puleo
{"title":"Cross-shore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics modeling of an erosive event in the inner surf zone","authors":"Jiaye Zhang , Benjamin Tsai , Yashar Rafati , Tian-Jian Hsu , Jack A. Puleo","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104662","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104662","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>The phase-averaged and depth-integrated coastal morphodynamic model, XBeach-Surfbeat, was investigated for its capability of predicting the cross-shore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics in the inner surf zone by simulating the storm-induced berm erosion, sediment transport, and subsequent sand bar formation. By utilizing a comprehensive hydrodynamic and morphodynamic dataset measured in a large wave flume and high-fidelity 3D large-eddy simulation (LES) data, a rigorous model validation was conducted to assess its capability in predicting inner-surf zone hydrodynamics and to explore how the improved hydrodynamic performance impacts the predicted morphodynamics. Using the default model parameters of the model, the undertow was overestimated with the peak magnitude being 30%–35% larger in the inner surf zone. Combining Monte Carlo simulation, the optimum hydrodynamic calibration for the simulated undertow was achieved when the roller energy dissipation parameter (<span><math><mrow><mi>β</mi><mo>)</mo></mrow></math></span> was maintained below 0.1, and the threshold water depth (<span><math><mrow><msub><mi>h</mi><mi>min</mi></msub></mrow></math></span>) exceeded 0.25 m. The calibrated undertow improved the morphodynamic predictions by reducing the excessive berm erosion (Event I) and sand bar growth in the inner surf zone (Event II). Further improved morphodynamic predictions were achieved by calibrating sediment transport parameters, including the onshore sediment transport coefficient (<span><math><mrow><msub><mi>γ</mi><mrow><mi>u</mi><mi>a</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></math></span>) and the bore interval coefficient (<span><math><mrow><msub><mi>T</mi><mrow><mi>b</mi><mi>f</mi><mi>a</mi><mi>c</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></math></span>) associated with turbulence-bed interaction. A consistent set of optimized model coefficients for the model is shown to be effective in simulating the entire erosive event (combined Events I and II). This study reveals that further improvement of the model's capability may require incorporating new parameterizations and physics, such as wave-breaking-induced turbulence and wave nonlinearity associated with sediment transport in the inner surf and swash zones.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"196 ","pages":"Article 104662"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-11-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142757629","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Coastal EngineeringPub Date : 2024-11-22DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104661
Yue Ding , Paul H. Taylor , Thobani Hlophe , Wenhua Zhao
{"title":"A comparison of linear and nonlinear 3D semi-Lagrangian motion of moored Waverider and Spotter wave buoys","authors":"Yue Ding , Paul H. Taylor , Thobani Hlophe , Wenhua Zhao","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104661","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104661","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Wave records from oceanographic buoys remain indispensable in coastal and offshore engineering. Modern wave buoys produce semi-Lagrangian time histories of motions in three dimensions (one vertical and two horizontal) in addition to the standard statistical output. Datawell Directional Waverider (DWR) buoys have long been recognized as providing high quality measurements, while other types of wave buoys have been introduced more recently. This study analyses field data measured by two types of wave buoys: one DWR4 and three Sofar Spotter buoys, all moored on intermediate water depth offshore Western Australia. The time histories recorded by the two types of wave buoys in three orthogonal directions and the relationship between them are comprehensively examined on a wave-by-wave basis. Although focusing on mild sea states, the analysis identifies significant second-order motion components in the horizontal plane for both DWR4 and Spotter buoys. It is confirmed that both DWR and Spotters work well and consistently in the vertical direction. However, we present considerable evidence that the DWR4 buoy overestimates the displacements in the horizontal plane by a factor of approximately 1/0.85 times, while the Spotter buoys’ displacements match well with theoretical predictions in the horizontal plane. Despite this apparent calibration error, both the mean wave direction and the directional spreading match well between the two buoy types, with the DWR4 giving slightly lower spreading angles at higher frequency. These observations shed new insights into the wave buoy motions in 3D on intermediate water depth.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"196 ","pages":"Article 104661"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-11-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142744509","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Coastal EngineeringPub Date : 2024-11-15DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104656
Myung Jin Koh , Hyoungsu Park , Jayasekara R. Jayasekara , Sabarethinam Kameshwar , Kellen Doyle , Daniel Cox , Pedro Lomonaco
{"title":"Experimental study on tsunami-driven debris damming loads on columns of an elevated coastal structure","authors":"Myung Jin Koh , Hyoungsu Park , Jayasekara R. Jayasekara , Sabarethinam Kameshwar , Kellen Doyle , Daniel Cox , Pedro Lomonaco","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104656","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104656","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This study presents experimental findings on debris damming loads on columns of an elevated coastal structure under tsunami-like wave conditions. A total of 183 cases (140 with and 43 without debris) were tested at a 1:20 scale to understand the impact of various factors on debris-driven damming loads, including wave characteristics, structure configurations, and debris shapes. The debris impact and damming processes were observed and quantified from optical measurements, and corresponding loads were measured on the entire structure using a force balance plate and on an individual column in the front row using a multi-axial load cell. The experimental results indicated the horizontal debris damming load on the entire column structure increased by up to 3.2 times compared to conditions without debris, while the load on the individual column increased by up to 11.0 times. The total damming loads for the whole structure increased, but the load for the individual column decreased at a reduced opening ratio. The smaller debris sizes relative to column spacing showed significantly lower chances of debris damming across different column configurations. Overall, the load on the whole structure showed stronger correlations between debris damming loads and hydro-kinematic variables such as flow depth, velocity, momentum flux, and Froude number compared to the loads on the individual column. Among these variables, momentum flux emerged as the most consistently influential across all categories.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"196 ","pages":"Article 104656"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-11-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142703029","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Coastal EngineeringPub Date : 2024-11-15DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104657
Giulio Scaravaglione , Stefano Marino , Antonio Francone , Elisa Leone , Leonardo Damiani , Giuseppe R. Tomasicchio , Marcel R.A. van Gent , Alessandra Saponieri
{"title":"The influence of shallow water on rock armour stability","authors":"Giulio Scaravaglione , Stefano Marino , Antonio Francone , Elisa Leone , Leonardo Damiani , Giuseppe R. Tomasicchio , Marcel R.A. van Gent , Alessandra Saponieri","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104657","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104657","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>The hydraulic stability of rock armour layers has been extensively discussed in the literature, with numerous formulae proposed for design purposes. However, limited attention has been given to armour stability under shallow water conditions, largely due to the scarcity of experimental data. This research aims to address this gap by providing new insights into the stability of rock armour layers with rubble mound breakwaters in shallow water. Hydraulic stability was determined for four different structure slopes and various hydrodynamic conditions, spanning from deep to extremely shallow water in presence of a 1V:30H foreshore. Newly experimental data were compared with existing stability formulae valid in shallow water, specifically those by van Gent et al. (2003, VG), Eldrup and Andersen (2019, EA), and Etemad-Shahidi et al. (2020, ES). Initially, the data were used to evaluate the accuracy of the original formulae. Following this, the formulae were recalibrated to account for the influence of shallow water, with data grouped according to water levels. Finally, modified versions of VG and ES formulae were developed to fit the experimental data, incorporating the effects of wave steepness to better capture shallow water dynamics.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"197 ","pages":"Article 104657"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-11-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143156240","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Coastal EngineeringPub Date : 2024-11-12DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104655
Dongfang Liu, David P. Callaghan, Ananth Wuppukondur, Tom E. Baldock
{"title":"A probabilistic coral rubble mechanical instability model applied with field observations from the Great Barrier reef","authors":"Dongfang Liu, David P. Callaghan, Ananth Wuppukondur, Tom E. Baldock","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104655","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104655","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Unstable coral rubble hinders coral recruitment and recovery of coral reefs after damage from cyclones and bleaching events. If coral rubble remains unstable under typical everyday environmental conditions, areas of coral rubble will not be able to recover. Evaluating the probability of rubble instability over regional scale reef systems can assist the optimization of coral reef restoration efforts. Currently, robust and verified models for such applications do not exist. This paper presents a comprehensive assessment method to predict the probability of coral rubble instability, which combines a fluid-structural interaction approach with a statistical regional wave climate model. The hydrodynamic model employs non-linear wave theory to determine near-bed velocity, pressure gradients, and the corresponding drag and inertia forces acting on the coral rubble. The instability model assesses when overturning or sliding forces exceed resisting forces, considering thousands of combinations of different coral sizes and densities to calculate the proportion of instability under a given wave forcing. The model was calibrated and validated using prior laboratory experiments as reported by Kenyon et al. (2023b). The hydrodynamic and instability models use an extensive dataset of non-cyclonic wave climates (hindcast from over 30 years of wind measurements) specific to the region around Heron Reef, Great Barrier Reef, Australia, enabling a comprehensive evaluation of the probability of rubble instability in this area. Results indicate that the overall probability of rubble instability <span><math><mrow><mo>(</mo><msub><mi>Pr</mi><mn>3</mn></msub><mo>)</mo></mrow></math></span> reaches 0.74 in water depths less than 2 m (typical of reef crests or reef flats), while it declines to below 0.21 at a depth of 12 m (typical deeper parts of the fore reef). Coral rubble on reef crests near Heron Reef, which are sheltered by surrounding formations, demonstrates low probability of instability. Thus, coral rubble instability is influenced by both its specific location within the reef and the position of the reef relative to other nearby reefs. By integrating the rubble instability model with non-cyclonic wave climate data, a map of the probability of rubble instability was generated for eight reefs in the Capricorn and Bunker Group (CBG). This map provides valuable guidance for coral reef restoration efforts, significantly reducing the need for extensive field-based data.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"195 ","pages":"Article 104655"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-11-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142652934","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Coastal EngineeringPub Date : 2024-11-12DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104654
Felix Spröer , León-Carlos Dempwolff , Christian Windt , Clemens Krautwald , David Schürenkamp , Nils Goseberg
{"title":"Numerical modelling of pump-driven tsunami generation and fluid-structure-interaction in idealized urbanized coastal areas during run-up","authors":"Felix Spröer , León-Carlos Dempwolff , Christian Windt , Clemens Krautwald , David Schürenkamp , Nils Goseberg","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104654","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104654","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Tsunami wave inundations are still one of the most devastating natural disasters worldwide. Tsunamis striking a settlement frequently devastate much of its infrastructure. In instances where infrastructure withstands the tsunami’s actions, it acts as a flow resistance for the wave’s run-up, altering inundation dynamics and flow depth. Accurately predicting the complex dynamics of tsunami wave run-up in densely populated urban areas is paramount for informing effective evacuation protocols and conducting comprehensive hazard and risk assessments. In pursuit of improving wave run-up prediction capabilities, this study delves into the three-dimensional numerical modelling of wave run-up of non-breaking, long tsunami waves in urbanized areas. Leveraging insights from a physical experiment with pump-driven wave generation and idealized infrastructure, a novel pressure-based wave generation boundary condition is developed. The boundary condition achieves an average of 4.9% accuracy in replicating the water surface elevation from experiments. Additionally, it attains an average 1.5% precision in reproducing flow velocities, furthermore reproducing the spatial flow dynamics accurately. Physical experiment wave run-up is modelled with an average 6.9% deviation for both simulations with and without idealized infrastructure. 63.0% higher non-linearity waves than in the physical experiments are additionally investigated to highlight the boundary conditions capabilities of high non-linearity wave generation, change in run-up reduction for higher non-linearity waves for infrastructure interaction and furthermore in-depth flow field characteristics during tsunami inundation. Finally, the study highlights deviations from analytically calculated wave run-up, emphasizing the necessity for numerical and physical experimental evaluation for both high non-linearity waves and tsunami infrastructure interaction, ultimately fostering both resilience and preparedness against tsunami hazards.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"196 ","pages":"Article 104654"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-11-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142660968","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Coastal EngineeringPub Date : 2024-11-07DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104652
Yong-kun Chen , Domenico D. Meringolo , Yong Liu , Jia-ming Liang
{"title":"Energy balance during Bragg wave resonance by submerged porous breakwaters through a mixture theory-based δ-LES-SPH model","authors":"Yong-kun Chen , Domenico D. Meringolo , Yong Liu , Jia-ming Liang","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104652","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104652","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This paper presents a numerical analysis of the time behaviors of mechanical and internal fluid energies during the Bragg wave resonance induced by two-arrayed trapezoidal submerged porous breakwaters based on a reformatted <em>δ</em>-LES-SPH model (Di Mascio et al., 2017). In the present work, a mixture theory is introduced into the <em>δ</em>-LES-SPH model by reformulating the governing equations with the incorporation of a volume fraction. In this approach, the viscous and diffusive terms are also modified by the volume fraction. The energy equation is then written for the presented model highlighting the presence of two additional components compared with the classical <em>δ</em>-LES-SPH formulation: one coming from the fluid compression and another one due to the dissipation both induced by the interaction of the porous structure with the fluid phase. The numerical results are validated by available experimental data for a gravity-driven mass flow passing through a porous dam case and two Bragg wave resonance by two-arrayed submerged trapezoidal porous breakwaters cases. A numerical analysis is then conducted on Bragg wave resonance by two-arrayed trapezoidal porous breakwaters, by investigating the effects of the distance between the two breakwaters and their porosity. Interesting insights about the type and magnitude of dissipation occurring during the wave-structure interaction are captured by analyzing the time evolutions of each energy component.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"196 ","pages":"Article 104652"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-11-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142660967","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Coastal EngineeringPub Date : 2024-11-05DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104653
Yuan Li , Chi Zhang , Shubin Chen , Hongshuai Qi , Weiqi Dai , Huimin Zhu , Titi Sui , Jinhai Zheng
{"title":"Experimental investigation on cross-shore profile evolution of reef-fronted beach","authors":"Yuan Li , Chi Zhang , Shubin Chen , Hongshuai Qi , Weiqi Dai , Huimin Zhu , Titi Sui , Jinhai Zheng","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104653","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104653","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Physical experiments on cross-shore profile evolution of the reef-fronted beach are conducted considering various offshore wave conditions and reef settings. Cross-shore beach profile evolution, sediment transport rate, and waves at the beach toe are analyzed. The reef-fronted beach is found to be resilient to erosion induced by offshore sediment transport. In present cases, the beach evolves from a sloping profile to a reflective profile, and onshore sediment transport leads to the formation of a swash berm. Both the shortwaves and infragravity waves at the beach toe play an important role in forming the beach shape. The berm foreshore slope mainly depends on the wave energy density in the infragravity band at the beach toe. Wave energy density in the shortwave band at the beach toe increases with reef submergences, while wave energy density in the infragravity band at the beach toe increases with offshore wave heights. The temporal evolution of sediment transport rate exhibits two modes, implying complex feedbacks occur between swash flows and beach profile evolution. The bulk transport on the reef-fronted beach is parameterized by the relative height of shortwaves and wave steepness of both shortwaves and infragravity waves at the beach toe. A conceptual model of bulk transport on the beach is proposed that the bulk transport increases with the Gourlay number, indicating that reef-fronted beaches with a well-developed reef flat are resilient to increasing wave exposure.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"195 ","pages":"Article 104653"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-11-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142652930","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Coastal EngineeringPub Date : 2024-11-03DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104649
Fabio Addona , Maria Clavero , Luca Chiapponi , Sandro Longo
{"title":"Interactions between swell and colinear wind short crested waves, following and opposing","authors":"Fabio Addona , Maria Clavero , Luca Chiapponi , Sandro Longo","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104649","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104649","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>When wind blows over a water surface during a swell, it generates short-crested, three-dimensional waves that interact with the underlying flow field through a mechanism that ultimately increases the average energy. In the present work, two test cases in which wind is flowing following and opposing a swell are analysed with experiments and are compared with wind–waves-only and swell-only cases. The analysis of the free surface fluctuation and of the flow field, with the three components of fluid velocity measured at the same time through a stereo particle image velocimetry system, leads to an accurate quantification of the energy distribution, of the structure of the oscillating, fluctuating (due to wind–waves) and turbulent kinetic energy, without assumptions on the structure of the flow. The findings demonstrate that the transverse dynamics is a pivotal factor in the transfer of energy in the near-free surface domain, and elucidate the energy transfer between wind–waves and swell. The results also confirm the reduction of oscillating kinetic energy of the swell in the presence of short wind–waves, a process interpreted with different possible mechanisms. There is evidence of the enhancement of wind action in the presence of swell compared to that in the case of wind–waves-only, confirming that energy transfer from the wind to the sea is enhanced when wind flows over a swell. Consequently, when the fetch is influenced by swells generated or propagated from different regions, and during multi-peak sea storms, wave generation models should account for this amplification.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"195 ","pages":"Article 104649"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-11-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142652931","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}