Coastal Engineering最新文献

{"title":"Wave overtopping at two-class armour berm breakwaters: an experimental study","authors":"Mohammed Al-Ogaili ,&nbsp;Nick Cartwright ,&nbsp;Sigurdur Sigurdarson ,&nbsp;Amir Etemad-Shahidi","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104824","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104824","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This study investigates the overtopping behaviour of two-class armour berm breakwaters by conducting 110 small-scale physical model tests. The investigation focuses on the influence of key parameters, such as wave steepness, dimensionless crest height, stability number, berm height, and the reshaped profile of the berm, on mean overtopping discharge. Among these, the dimensionless crest height emerged as the most influential factor. Furthermore, the results indicate a noticeable increase in overtopping discharge with decreasing wave steepness and increasing degree of reshaping. The results show that the EurOtop (2018) mode underestimates overtopping rates, with more scatter compared to the other formulas. In contrast, the formulas by Lykke Andersen (2006), Pillai et al. (2017), and Sigurdarson and Van der Meer (2012) provide more accurate predictions, though slight underestimations remain, except in the case of the Lykke Andersen (2006) one. The observed underprediction for the conducted tests highlights the need for modifying existing formulas to more accurately reflect the specific characteristics of two-class armour berm breakwaters. Recalibrating these formulas with the new dataset improved prediction accuracy, with the modified Lykke Andersen (2006) and Sigurdarson and Van der Meer (2012) models performing the best. Accuracy metrics such as <em>BIAS</em>, <em>RMSE</em>, <em>R</em>², and Discrepancy Ratio (<em>DR</em>) further confirmed the improvements, showing reduced <em>BIAS</em> and <em>RMSE</em> values compared to the original formulations. The findings emphasize the need for more refined formulas to predict overtopping for two-class armour berm breakwaters, particularly those with reshaped berms, under varying wave conditions.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104824"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-07-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144671052","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Impact of banquette structures on a sandy beach profile: Laboratory experiments","authors":"Carlos Astudillo-Gutierrez ,&nbsp;Joan Pau Sierra ,&nbsp;César Mösso ,&nbsp;Vicente Gracia","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104815","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104815","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>A novel experiment using a mimic banquette is presented. This study investigates the morphodynamic effects of different banquette configurations on a sandy beach under erosive wave conditions. Following a six-hour exposure to irregular waves with significant heights of 0.6 metres, different banquette configurations were tested to assess their role in coastal protection. Wave height evolution, bar parameters, total sediment transport and shoreline position were used to evaluate the coastal protection efficiency of the banquette. The results of the study indicate that all banquette structures effectively reduced the flow of water towards the upper beach, limiting run-up and mitigating backshore erosion compared to a beach without protection. Larger banquettes provided greater stability by forming an active berm that restricted water passage, allowing minimal infiltration. In contrast, smaller banquettes, which allowed overtopping, influenced localized erosion and accretion near the shoreline, while still protecting the upper beach. Morphological changes were primarily observed near the shoreline, while sand profiles in the offshore bar region remained stable due to minimal variations in incident wave heights. Banquette structures also induced wave reflections at their toe, increasing localized erosion, particularly for those preventing overtopping. The findings demonstrate the effectiveness of banquette structures in reducing coastal erosion, with performance variations depending on the size and overtopping capacity. The study offers valuable insights for the optimization of coastal protection strategies, guiding the design of nature-based defences to mitigate erosion impacts on sandy shorelines.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104815"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-07-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144653238","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Numerical modeling and observations of infragravity wave propagation and amplification within a small, confined harbor","authors":"Bernabe Gomez ,&nbsp;Gabriel Diaz-Hernandez ,&nbsp;T.W. Gallien","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104816","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104816","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Infragravity (IG) waves are long-period oscillations capable of propagating into and resonating within harbors, and pose significant risks to maritime operations. High-resolution water level observations suggest the dominant IG wave energy source within in a small harbor originate offshore, propagating as free waves that undergo amplification due to the harbor’s geometric configuration, resulting in significant harbor seiching. Strong correlations are observed between offshore wave parameters and IG wave energy, with significant wave height and average wave period being the primary drivers. Additionally, directional wave spreading plays a critical role in the generation and propagation of IG waves. A numerical modeling framework, using SWAN to resolve the nearshore wave climatology and FUNWAVE-TVD to investigate harbor resonance, successfully models IG wave amplification events and enables the identification of the eigenmodes and nodal patterns within the harbor. However, the coupled modeling methodology under-predicts the propagation of short-period wind waves into the harbor which nominally contribute to wave agitation. Results highlight the crucial influence of wave directionality, directional spread, and spectral shape on IG wave amplification in confined coastal environments. These findings enhance our understanding of IG wave dynamics and have important implications for harbor design, coastal resilience, and maritime safety.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104816"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-07-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144611525","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Probabilistic estimation of the mean wave overtopping discharge on mound breakwaters","authors":"Patricia Mares-Nasarre","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104792","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104792","url":null,"abstract":"&lt;div&gt;&lt;div&gt;This study develops a probabilistic model, a Gaussian copula-based Bayesian Network (BN), to explain the joint probability distribution of the dimensionless mean wave overtopping discharge (&lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;Q&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mo&gt;=&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mi&gt;q&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mo&gt;/&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;msqrt&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;g&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;msubsup&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;H&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;m&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mn&gt;0&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mn&gt;3&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msubsup&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msqrt&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt;, being &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;mi&gt;q&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt; the mean wave overtopping discharge, &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;mi&gt;g&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt; the gravity acceleration and &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;H&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;m&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mn&gt;0&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt; the spectral significant wave height) and a set of explanatory variables on mound breakwaters. This model estimates the distribution of &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;mi&gt;Q&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt; conditional to the values of (all or some of) the explanatory variables. The goal of this model is to allow the incorporation of the uncertainties of the structural response and the overtopping phenomenon to probabilistic frameworks. Given a tolerable &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;mi&gt;Q&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt; value, a probability of failure can be directly computed from the distribution of &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;mi&gt;Q&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt; estimated by the developed BN, differently to current methods in the literature which are deterministic. To develop the BN, a subset of CLASH database focused on mound breakwaters is used (3,179 tests), using 80% of those tests for training and 20% for statistical and performance testing. Ten dimensionless explanatory variables are selected with the following experimental ranges: bottom slope, &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mn&gt;7&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;.&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;6&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;≤&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mi&gt;m&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mo&gt;≤&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;1000&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt;; wave attack angle, &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mn&gt;0&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;≤&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mi&gt;β&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mo&gt;≤&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;80&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;°&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt;; roughness factor, &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mn&gt;0&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;.&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;38&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;≤&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;γ&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;f&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;mo&gt;≤&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;1&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;.&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;00&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt;; dimensionless crest freeboard, &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mn&gt;0&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;≤&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;R&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;c&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;mo&gt;/&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;H&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;m&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mn&gt;0&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;mo&gt;≤&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;4&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;.&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;37&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt;; wave steepness, &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mn&gt;1&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;.&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;31&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mi&gt;⋅&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mn&gt;1&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;msup&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mn&gt;0&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mo&gt;−&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;3&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msup&gt;&lt;mo&gt;≤&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;s&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mo&gt;−&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;1&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;,&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;0&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;mo&gt;≤&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;0&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;.&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;069&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt;; dimensionless width of the crest berm, &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mn&gt;0&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;≤&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;G&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;c&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;mo&gt;/&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;H&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;m&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mn&gt;0&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;mo&gt;≤&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;6&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mo&gt;.&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;67&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt;; dimensionless height of the crest berm, &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;m","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"201 ","pages":"Article 104792"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144549645","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Consistent nonlinear mild-slope equation models for wide-angle water waves transformation","authors":"In-Chul Kim ,&nbsp;James M. Kaihatu","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104817","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104817","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Parabolic equation models are constrained by their fixed principal propagation direction, limiting wave fields to small angles. To overcome this limitation, this study proposes two modeling approaches based on a new dispersive nonlinear mild-slope equation model that enable wave propagation across a broad range of directions. The first approach integrates a minimax approximation for linear terms with nonlinear summation under a specialized ordering system, resulting in a higher-order parabolic model. The second approach extends the parabolic equation by incorporating alongshore wavenumber components through Fourier decomposition and modifies the inverse Fourier transform terms with additional forcing to account for interactions between lateral bottom variations and the wave field. We validate the proposed models through comparisons against laboratory experiments involving wave focusing by a topographical lens, an elliptic shoal, and a circular shoal. Overall, the proposed models enhance the prediction of wave propagation under a variety of conditions.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104817"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144632943","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A weakly-compressible SPH-porous media model to simulate wave–breakwater interactions","authors":"Mojtaba Jandaghian ,&nbsp;Abolghasem Pilechi ,&nbsp;Scott Baker","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104811","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104811","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This study introduces a weakly-compressible Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) model for accurately simulating free-surface flows and wave interactions with permeable breakwaters. Using mixture theory and the intrinsic phase-averaging method, we integrate the porous media constitutive law into the fluid flow solver, allowing SPH particles to dynamically adjust their volume based on local porosity variations. To enhance numerical stability, we introduce a modified dynamic particle collision regularization technique and employ an artificial density diffusive term that accounts for variable-volume particle interactions. We validate the developed SPH-porous media formulation against theoretical predictions and experimental benchmarks, demonstrating its capability to capture long-term wave propagation over permeable structures. Results confirm that our SPH model effectively handles particle interactions with varying volumes at the porous medium interface, mitigating particle clustering issues. This work provides a robust and high-performance SPH tool for investigating wave dynamics in coastal engineering applications, including the design of permeable breakwaters and revetments.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"201 ","pages":"Article 104811"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144597355","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Berm accretion resulting from inner surf and Swash zone processes","authors":"Florian Grossmann ,&nbsp;José M. Alsina","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104797","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104797","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Swash zone morphology is important for coastal management, flood protection and touristic use of beaches. Starting from different post-storm beach profiles, this study investigated berm accretion during wave energy reduction after storms (beach recovery). The large-scale wave flume experiments featured measurements of beach profile evolution, water surface elevation, outer flow velocities and suspended sediment concentration. The measurements were combined with simulation of onshore wave propagation, sediment advection under turbulent bores in the swash zone and Energetics-type sediment transport to explain the processes causing berm accretion. When comparing low (dimensionless fall velocity <span><math><mrow><mi>Ω</mi><mo>=</mo><mfrac><mrow><msub><mrow><mi>H</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>r</mi><mi>m</mi><mi>s</mi></mrow></msub></mrow><mrow><msub><mrow><mi>T</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>p</mi></mrow></msub><mo>∗</mo><msub><mrow><mi>w</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>s</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></mfrac><mo>=</mo><mrow><mo>{</mo><mn>0</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>72</mn><mo>,</mo><mn>1</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>05</mn><mo>}</mo></mrow></mrow></math></span>) to high (<span><math><mrow><mi>Ω</mi><mo>=</mo><mn>1</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>44</mn></mrow></math></span>) energy recovery waves, an onshore shift in breaking caused more wave asymmetry-related onshore transport through the inner surf zone. This resulted in 2–3 times as much recovered berm volume under the low energy recovery waves. When comparing the two low energy recovery wave conditions (<span><math><mrow><mi>Ω</mi><mo>=</mo><mrow><mo>{</mo><mn>0</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>72</mn><mo>,</mo><mn>1</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>05</mn><mo>}</mo></mrow></mrow></math></span>), differences in breaking at the shoreline (potentially related to profile shape inherited from the storm) influenced bore-related onshore advection of sediment to the berm crest. This caused twice as much vertical berm accretion under one condition (<span><math><mrow><mi>Ω</mi><mo>=</mo><mn>0</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>72</mn></mrow></math></span>) in contrast to twice as much horizontal berm accretion (shoreline recovery) under the other condition (<span><math><mrow><mi>Ω</mi><mo>=</mo><mn>1</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>05</mn></mrow></math></span>).</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"201 ","pages":"Article 104797"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-06-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144563932","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A mixture of experts approach to sandy shoreline modelling in storm dominated systems","authors":"Kit Calcraft ,&nbsp;Joshua A. Simmons ,&nbsp;Lucy A. Marshall ,&nbsp;Kristen D. Splinter","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104813","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104813","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>The complexity of sandy shoreline dynamics along storm-dominated coastlines is largely driven by the fundamentally distinct processes that govern individual storm events and post-storm recovery periods. Despite advancements in both physics-based and machine learning methods, accurately predicting both the rapid shift in shoreline response due to storms, and the subsequent recovery periods across multi-annual forecasting horizons remains a significant challenge. In this study, we introduce a Mixture of Experts (or ‘Mixture’) approach to shoreline modelling that augments a Long Short-Term Memory (LSTM) neural network with a specialized linear regression storm model. This state dependent approach, guided by a threshold gating mechanism, generates stable multi-year forecasts that effectively capture both storm impacts and longer-term shoreline trends. We apply the Mixture at two storm-dominated sites along the southeast Australian coastline and observe an improvement in NMSE of 0.26 at Narrabeen and 0.61 at the Gold Coast, relative to a baseline standalone LSTM model. The findings of this work emphasize that context-informed modelling decisions can significantly enhance machine learning methods, leading to more accessible and actionable forecasts while minimizing an increase in model complexity.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"201 ","pages":"Article 104813"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-06-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144517185","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Experimental and numerical investigation on a novel dual-chamber OWC-WEC integrated with an energy-focusing breakwater","authors":"Xiangyu Zhang ,&nbsp;Robert Mayon ,&nbsp;Feng Zhou ,&nbsp;Dezhi Ning","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104814","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104814","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>To overcome the application and commercialization challenges associated with Oscillating Water Column (OWC) Wave Energy Converters (WEC), it is crucial to improve energy conversion efficiency while minimizing Capital Expenditure (CAPEX) costs. A novel integration of a cylindrical dual-chamber OWC-WEC and a parabolic-type breakwater was proposed, and a breakthrough in wave-to-wire energy conversion efficiency was achieved. A series of scaled experiments in a 3D wave basin and numerical simulations based on nonlinear higher-order boundary element method (HOBEM) were conducted, respectively. Initially, the Capture Width Ratio (CWR) of cylindrical single-chamber and dual-chamber OWCs were compared. The CWR in the dual-chamber OWC was 33.7 % higher than that in the single-chamber model. The performance of these two systems in both regular and irregular incident wave conditions was then investigated with the energy concentration attribute of a parabolic breakwater. In specific wave conditions, the elevation of the free surface within the chamber exceeded three times the incident wave amplitude, and a higher air pressure was produced compared to the results without the energy focusing breakwater. The output power in the case of the dual-chamber system outperformed the single-chamber system and the maximum increase in wave-to-wire efficiency reached 62.1 %. In the dual-chamber system, the inner chamber produced more power than the outer chamber because of the larger aerodynamic pressure generated inside the inner chamber. Furthermore, as the wave height increased from 0.05 m to 0.075 m, the dual-chamber OWC structure exhibited the improved stability and resulted in the increased energy production. In irregular wave conditions, the dual-chamber OWC system achieved better performance than the single-chamber system, although the output power and wave-to-wire efficiency are lower compared with the regular wave condition results.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"201 ","pages":"Article 104814"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-06-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144517184","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Alongshore velocities and turbulence in the swash and surf zone forced by oblique, monochromatic waves on smooth and rough impermeable beaches","authors":"Alexandra E. Schueller ,&nbsp;Thomas Pendergast ,&nbsp;Kelsey Fall ,&nbsp;Hyungyu Sung ,&nbsp;Dawson Ethier ,&nbsp;Ryan P. Mulligan ,&nbsp;Jason Olsthoorn ,&nbsp;Nimish Pujara ,&nbsp;Jack A. Puleo","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104812","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104812","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Wave breaking on beaches drives complex nearshore flow patterns and turbulence. A series of controlled laboratory experiments were conducted to better understand swash and surf zone hydrodynamics on smooth and rough planar impermeable beaches under obliquely incident waves. The experiments were performed in a 26.0 m long, 20.6 m wide, and 1.0 m deep wave basin using a fixed concrete beach with a 1:10 slope. The beach surface was roughened through sandblasting following smooth surface experiments to allow a direct comparison between smooth and rough bed conditions. Regular waves with heights of 0.10 m, 0.125 m, and 0.15 m and a period of 2.0 s were generated with the wave paddle positioned at angles of 0°, 10°, and 20° with respect to the beach. An array of sensors recorded high-frequency data on water surface elevations and velocities at multiple cross-shore positions. Differences in the cross-shore velocities were most evident near the breaker zone, with peak onshore velocities approaching 0.8 m/s. Bed roughness was found to delay wave breaking and modulate velocity profiles compared to smooth bed conditions. Alongshore velocities remained predominantly positive, indicating consistent wave-driven mean flow along the beach, generally increasing with wave paddle angle, and measurements over the smooth bed contained larger nearbed gradients and alongshore flows during flow reversal. Mean nearbed turbulent kinetic energy (<em>k</em>) in the surf zone was on the order of 10⁻³ m²/s². Roughness resulted in an increase of nearbed <span><math><mrow><mi>k</mi></mrow></math></span> of approximately 12 % at the sensor closest to wave breaking. Analysis of nearbed Reynolds stresses close to the wave breaking location showed roughly a factor of 2 increase for beach normal waves compared to obliquely incident waves. This may suggest influence of reflections off of the beach increased by the intermediate-to-steep slope in this study.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104812"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-06-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144671051","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}