TEXTILE HISTORY最新文献_第8页

Dressed ‘as if for a Carnival’: Solving the Mystery of the Origins of Children’s Fashion. A New Perspective on the History and Historiography of Children’s Dress 穿着“仿佛是为了狂欢节”：解开儿童时尚起源之谜。童装历史与史学的新视角

IF 1 2区社会学

TEXTILE HISTORY Pub Date : 2020-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2020.1743930

Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka

{"title":"Dressed ‘as if for a Carnival’: Solving the Mystery of the Origins of Children’s Fashion. A New Perspective on the History and Historiography of Children’s Dress","authors":"Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2020.1743930","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2020.1743930","url":null,"abstract":"The article has a double focus: explaining the so-far obscure origins of children’s fashion in the later eighteenth century and putting its emergence in the context of the ‘grand narrative’ concerning the ‘discovery of childhood’ during this pivotal period. Contrary to Rousseau’s famous dismissal of the hussar suit, the role of ‘fancy dress’ inspiration in the development of children’s fashions for the first time purposefully meant to distinguish the (male) child from the grown-ups and, concurrent with the Enlightenment’s ideas on childhood, emerges as central rather than marginal. The repertory of styles adopted for boys’ wear is shown to have been inspired by various ethnic and historical dress traditions rooted in the fascination with masquerade characteristic of the Rococo culture but harnessed to express the emerging new attitudes. Among them, special attention is given to inspirations by Polish national dress. Second, the article takes on the argument presented by Daniel Thomas Cook in his inspiring article in Textile History, 42, no. 1 (2011). Having acknowledged the foundational role of fashion history in the emergence of childhood studies, Cook regards its present status as peripheral. He dismisses the underlying premise of its principal ‘grand narrative’ as based on a fruitless distinction between utility (and functionality) and fashion rather than the invention or discovery of the ‘child’ and ‘childhood’. While partially accepting Cook’s criticism, the article argues that the ‘grand narrative’, thus modified and expanded, retains its usefulness. In the nineteenth century, the ‘fancy dress’ and ‘playfulness’ theme continued, reflected in the most popular children’s styles (sailor suit, Little Lord Fauntleroy suit) and a range of others, temporarily or locally prominent, and intertwining with multifarious cultural, artistic, social and commercial developments.","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":"51 1","pages":"28 - 5"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2020.1743930","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41855843","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1

Transatlantic Textiles: Ireland’s Dun Emer Textiles in America During the First Decade of the Twentieth Century 跨大西洋纺织品:二十世纪头十年爱尔兰在美国的Dun em纺织品

IF 1 2区社会学

TEXTILE HISTORY Pub Date : 2019-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2019.1646622

C. Fowler

引用次数: 2

Pasold Research Fund/Taylor & Francis Textile History Open Access First Publication Award 帕索尔德研究基金/Taylor&Francis纺织历史开放获取首次出版奖

IF 1 2区社会学

TEXTILE HISTORY Pub Date : 2019-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2019.1665799

引用次数: 0

Cultural Heritage 文化遗产

IF 1 2区社会学

TEXTILE HISTORY Pub Date : 2019-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2019.1653639

B. Karl

引用次数: 0

Gender 性别

IF 1 2区社会学

TEXTILE HISTORY Pub Date : 2019-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2019.1653638

A. Hood

{"title":"Gender","authors":"A. Hood","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2019.1653638","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2019.1653638","url":null,"abstract":". The article presents artistic projects in which the issue of gender is actualized. The above was carried out from the position of post-humanist ideas through the study of the impact of the development of technologies on modern socio-cultural processes. Thus, the projects created in different genres were analyzed, including post-cinema (“Night Walk for Edinburgh”, “A Total Jizzfest”) aimed at chang-ing gender perceptions in society, Ellen Pearlman’s opera “Emotionally intelligent” Artificially Intelligent Brainwave Opera” (AIBO), in which, thanks to the involvement of artificial intelligence as an actor, gender opposition is reinforced. The Female Laptop Orchestra (FLO) project is dedicated to the support of female creativity, which, thanks to the involvement of information and communication tools, com-bines music creation with research in its activity. An important aspect of the considered projects is defined as interactivity, which is im-plemented by involving the viewer in the process of their creation. It was found that, on the one hand, the digital virtual space made it possible to reduce the importance of social roles or gender affili-ation, thereby leveling the stereotype of the opposition between the author’s masculinity and femininity. On the other hand, with the development of machine learning technologies, a new opposition between the human author and the artificial intelligence in the same ca-pacity is gradually emerging.","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":"50 1","pages":"212 - 217"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2019.1653638","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46837998","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 50

Zuzana Šidliková, Lost (m)ODE, Clothing Culture in Slovakia from 1945 to 1989 ZuzanaŠidliková，迷失（m）ODE，1945年至1989年斯洛伐克的服装文化

IF 1 2区社会学

TEXTILE HISTORY Pub Date : 2019-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2019.1653648

L. Taylor

引用次数: 0

Dyes and Dyeing 染料与染色

IF 1 2区社会学

TEXTILE HISTORY Pub Date : 2019-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2019.1660062

Susan Kay-Williams

引用次数: 0

Craft 工艺

IF 1 2区社会学

TEXTILE HISTORY Pub Date : 2019-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2019.1655939

Amanda Thatch

引用次数: 16

Fashion 时尚

IF 1 2区社会学

TEXTILE HISTORY Pub Date : 2019-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2019.1655937

C. Breward

{"title":"Fashion","authors":"C. Breward","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2019.1655937","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2019.1655937","url":null,"abstract":"Fashion is a form of imitation and so of social equalization, but, paradoxically, in changing incessantly, it differentiates one time from another and one social stratum from another. It unites those of a social class and segregates them from others. The elite initiates a fashion and, when the mass imitates it in an effort to obliterate the external distinctions of class, abandons it for a newer mode-a process that quickens with the increase of wealth. Fashion does not exist in tribal and classless societies. It concerns externals and superficialities where irrationality does no harm. It signalizes the lack of personal freedom; hence it characterizes the female and the middle class, whose increased social freedom is matched by intense individual subjugation. Some forms are intrinsically more suited to the modifications of fashion than others: the internal unity of the forms called \"classic\" makes them immune to change. The general formula in accordance with which we usually interpret the differing aspects of the individual as well as of the public mind may be stated broadly as follows: We recognize two antagonistic forces, tendencies, or characteristics, either of which, if left unaffected, would approach infinity; and it is by the mutual limitation of the two forces that the characteristics of the individual and public mind result. We are constantly seeking ultimate forces, fundamental aspirations, some one of which controls our entire conduct. But in no case do we find any single force attaining a perfectly independent expression, and we are thus obliged to separate a majority of the factors and determine the relative extent to which each shall have representation. To do this we must establish the degree of limitation exercised by the counteraction of some other force, as well as the influence exerted by the latter upon the primlitive force. Man has ever had a dualistic nature. This fact, however, has had but little effect on the uniformity of his conduct, and this uniformity is usually the result of a number of elements. An action that results from less than a majority of fundamental forces would appear barren and empty. Over an old Flemish house there stands the mystical inscription, \"There is more within me\"; and this is the formula according to which the first impression of an action is supplemented by a farreaching diversity of causes. Human life cannot hope to develop a wealth of inexhaustible possibilities until we come to recognize in every moment and content of existence a pair of forces, each one of which, in striving to go beyond the initial point, has resolved the infinity of the other by mutual impingement into mere tension and desire. While the explanation of some aspects of the soul as the result of the action of two fundamental forces satisfies the theoretical instinct, it furthermore adds a new charm to the image of things, not only by tracing distinctly the outlines of the fact, but also by I International Quarterly (New York)","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":"50 1","pages":"206 - 211"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2019.1655937","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49291527","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 263

‘Liberty Art Fabrics & Fashion’, Dovecot Gallery, Dovecot Studios, Edinburgh, UK, 28 July 2018–12 January 2019 “Liberty Art Fabrics&Fashion”，英国爱丁堡Dovecot工作室Dovecot画廊，2018年7月28日至2019年1月12日

IF 1 2区社会学

TEXTILE HISTORY Pub Date : 2019-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2019.1654229

Lucy McConnell

引用次数: 1