TEXTILE HISTORY最新文献_第9页

Peter Maunder, Tiverton Cloth: The Story of the Town's Woollen Trade 1475–1815 Peter Maunder，蒂弗顿布：1475-1815年小镇羊毛贸易的故事

IF 1 2区社会学

TEXTILE HISTORY Pub Date : 2020-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2020.1741200

Nicholas R. Amor

引用次数: 0

Pam Inder, The Rag Trade: The People Who Made Our Clothes 帕姆·因德，《破布贸易:为我们制造衣服的人》

IF 1 2区社会学

TEXTILE HISTORY Pub Date : 2020-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2020.1741208

J. Halbert

引用次数: 0

Dressed ‘as if for a Carnival’: Solving the Mystery of the Origins of Children’s Fashion. A New Perspective on the History and Historiography of Children’s Dress 穿着“仿佛是为了狂欢节”：解开儿童时尚起源之谜。童装历史与史学的新视角

IF 1 2区社会学

TEXTILE HISTORY Pub Date : 2020-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2020.1743930

Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka

{"title":"Dressed ‘as if for a Carnival’: Solving the Mystery of the Origins of Children’s Fashion. A New Perspective on the History and Historiography of Children’s Dress","authors":"Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2020.1743930","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2020.1743930","url":null,"abstract":"The article has a double focus: explaining the so-far obscure origins of children’s fashion in the later eighteenth century and putting its emergence in the context of the ‘grand narrative’ concerning the ‘discovery of childhood’ during this pivotal period. Contrary to Rousseau’s famous dismissal of the hussar suit, the role of ‘fancy dress’ inspiration in the development of children’s fashions for the first time purposefully meant to distinguish the (male) child from the grown-ups and, concurrent with the Enlightenment’s ideas on childhood, emerges as central rather than marginal. The repertory of styles adopted for boys’ wear is shown to have been inspired by various ethnic and historical dress traditions rooted in the fascination with masquerade characteristic of the Rococo culture but harnessed to express the emerging new attitudes. Among them, special attention is given to inspirations by Polish national dress. Second, the article takes on the argument presented by Daniel Thomas Cook in his inspiring article in Textile History, 42, no. 1 (2011). Having acknowledged the foundational role of fashion history in the emergence of childhood studies, Cook regards its present status as peripheral. He dismisses the underlying premise of its principal ‘grand narrative’ as based on a fruitless distinction between utility (and functionality) and fashion rather than the invention or discovery of the ‘child’ and ‘childhood’. While partially accepting Cook’s criticism, the article argues that the ‘grand narrative’, thus modified and expanded, retains its usefulness. In the nineteenth century, the ‘fancy dress’ and ‘playfulness’ theme continued, reflected in the most popular children’s styles (sailor suit, Little Lord Fauntleroy suit) and a range of others, temporarily or locally prominent, and intertwining with multifarious cultural, artistic, social and commercial developments.","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2020.1743930","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41855843","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1

Pasold Research Fund/Taylor & Francis Textile History Open Access First Publication Award 帕索尔德研究基金/Taylor&Francis纺织历史开放获取首次出版奖

IF 1 2区社会学

TEXTILE HISTORY Pub Date : 2020-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2020.1764792

引用次数: 0

Cultural Heritage 文化遗产

IF 1 2区社会学

TEXTILE HISTORY Pub Date : 2019-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2019.1653639

B. Karl

引用次数: 0

Transatlantic Textiles: Ireland’s Dun Emer Textiles in America During the First Decade of the Twentieth Century 跨大西洋纺织品:二十世纪头十年爱尔兰在美国的Dun em纺织品

IF 1 2区社会学

TEXTILE HISTORY Pub Date : 2019-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2019.1646622

C. Fowler

引用次数: 2

Pasold Research Fund/Taylor & Francis Textile History Open Access First Publication Award 帕索尔德研究基金/Taylor&Francis纺织历史开放获取首次出版奖

IF 1 2区社会学

TEXTILE HISTORY Pub Date : 2019-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2019.1665799

引用次数: 0

Gender 性别

IF 1 2区社会学

TEXTILE HISTORY Pub Date : 2019-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2019.1653638

A. Hood

{"title":"Gender","authors":"A. Hood","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2019.1653638","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2019.1653638","url":null,"abstract":". The article presents artistic projects in which the issue of gender is actualized. The above was carried out from the position of post-humanist ideas through the study of the impact of the development of technologies on modern socio-cultural processes. Thus, the projects created in different genres were analyzed, including post-cinema (“Night Walk for Edinburgh”, “A Total Jizzfest”) aimed at chang-ing gender perceptions in society, Ellen Pearlman’s opera “Emotionally intelligent” Artificially Intelligent Brainwave Opera” (AIBO), in which, thanks to the involvement of artificial intelligence as an actor, gender opposition is reinforced. The Female Laptop Orchestra (FLO) project is dedicated to the support of female creativity, which, thanks to the involvement of information and communication tools, com-bines music creation with research in its activity. An important aspect of the considered projects is defined as interactivity, which is im-plemented by involving the viewer in the process of their creation. It was found that, on the one hand, the digital virtual space made it possible to reduce the importance of social roles or gender affili-ation, thereby leveling the stereotype of the opposition between the author’s masculinity and femininity. On the other hand, with the development of machine learning technologies, a new opposition between the human author and the artificial intelligence in the same ca-pacity is gradually emerging.","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2019.1653638","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46837998","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 50

Zuzana Šidliková, Lost (m)ODE, Clothing Culture in Slovakia from 1945 to 1989 ZuzanaŠidliková，迷失（m）ODE，1945年至1989年斯洛伐克的服装文化

IF 1 2区社会学

TEXTILE HISTORY Pub Date : 2019-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2019.1653648

L. Taylor

引用次数: 0

Material Messages: A Reassessment of the Double Portrait of Mary Tudor and Charles Brandon 材料信息：玛丽·都铎与查尔斯·布兰登双像再评价

IF 1 2区社会学

TEXTILE HISTORY Pub Date : 2019-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2019.1646987

R. Mearns

引用次数: 1