TEXTILE HISTORY最新文献

{"title":"Material Messages: A Reassessment of the Double Portrait of Mary Tudor and Charles Brandon","authors":"R. Mearns","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2019.1646987","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2019.1646987","url":null,"abstract":"The double portrait of Mary Tudor, sister of King Henry VIII of England, and Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, has traditionally been dated to 1515. This attribution has led the portrait to be widely regarded as the earliest depiction of the style of headdress known as a French hood being worn by a member of the English court. However, the date of 1515 does not take into account the circumstances surrounding the marriage of the two sitters, circumstances that would have prevented the portrait from being commissioned at this time. It also ignores features of the sitters’ attire, which display elements of later 1530s fashions. Using both documentary and pictorial evidence, this paper will seek to propose a later creation date of 1532, establish a different reading of the portrait and reassess our understanding of the French hood at the English court in the early sixteenth century.","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":"50 1","pages":"128 - 142"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2019.1646987","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45907251","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Dyes and Dyeing","authors":"Susan Kay-Williams","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2019.1660062","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2019.1660062","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":"50 1","pages":"225 - 231"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2019.1660062","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43285124","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Craft","authors":"Amanda Thatch","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2019.1655939","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2019.1655939","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":"50 1","pages":"244 - 248"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2019.1655939","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43796818","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Fashion","authors":"C. Breward","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2019.1655937","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2019.1655937","url":null,"abstract":"Fashion is a form of imitation and so of social equalization, but, paradoxically, in changing incessantly, it differentiates one time from another and one social stratum from another. It unites those of a social class and segregates them from others. The elite initiates a fashion and, when the mass imitates it in an effort to obliterate the external distinctions of class, abandons it for a newer mode-a process that quickens with the increase of wealth. Fashion does not exist in tribal and classless societies. It concerns externals and superficialities where irrationality does no harm. It signalizes the lack of personal freedom; hence it characterizes the female and the middle class, whose increased social freedom is matched by intense individual subjugation. Some forms are intrinsically more suited to the modifications of fashion than others: the internal unity of the forms called \"classic\" makes them immune to change. The general formula in accordance with which we usually interpret the differing aspects of the individual as well as of the public mind may be stated broadly as follows: We recognize two antagonistic forces, tendencies, or characteristics, either of which, if left unaffected, would approach infinity; and it is by the mutual limitation of the two forces that the characteristics of the individual and public mind result. We are constantly seeking ultimate forces, fundamental aspirations, some one of which controls our entire conduct. But in no case do we find any single force attaining a perfectly independent expression, and we are thus obliged to separate a majority of the factors and determine the relative extent to which each shall have representation. To do this we must establish the degree of limitation exercised by the counteraction of some other force, as well as the influence exerted by the latter upon the primlitive force. Man has ever had a dualistic nature. This fact, however, has had but little effect on the uniformity of his conduct, and this uniformity is usually the result of a number of elements. An action that results from less than a majority of fundamental forces would appear barren and empty. Over an old Flemish house there stands the mystical inscription, \"There is more within me\"; and this is the formula according to which the first impression of an action is supplemented by a farreaching diversity of causes. Human life cannot hope to develop a wealth of inexhaustible possibilities until we come to recognize in every moment and content of existence a pair of forces, each one of which, in striving to go beyond the initial point, has resolved the infinity of the other by mutual impingement into mere tension and desire. While the explanation of some aspects of the soul as the result of the action of two fundamental forces satisfies the theoretical instinct, it furthermore adds a new charm to the image of things, not only by tracing distinctly the outlines of the fact, but also by I International Quarterly (New York)","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":"50 1","pages":"206 - 211"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2019.1655937","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49291527","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"‘Liberty Art Fabrics & Fashion’, Dovecot Gallery, Dovecot Studios, Edinburgh, UK, 28 July 2018–12 January 2019","authors":"Lucy McConnell","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2019.1654229","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2019.1654229","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":"50 1","pages":"255 - 258"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2019.1654229","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48923822","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Cabbage, Tradition and Bunce: Marion Donaldson and the Black Economy of the British Rag Trade in the 1970s","authors":"J. Halbert","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2019.1652134","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2019.1652134","url":null,"abstract":"This article explores illicit aspects of the British rag trade in the 1970s through examination of so-called ‘cabbage’, a fundamental but hitherto obscure pillar of the hidden economy in British fashion production. Through analysis of oral, legal and material sources, it examines the ways in which the fashion company Marion Donaldson encountered ‘cabbage’, and how it negotiated with this as an integral part of doing business in the British rag trade. Hidden economies in ‘illegal but bona fide’ cultures of production and consumption are thus highlighted as a way of enriching our understanding of the complexities of the post-war British fashion business.","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":"50 1","pages":"187 - 205"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2019.1652134","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45029248","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"‘Fabric in Fashion’, The Museum at FIT, New York, USA, 4 December 2018–4 May 2019","authors":"Cynthia E. Chin","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2019.1654228","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2019.1654228","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":"50 1","pages":"259 - 262"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2019.1654228","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44584660","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"‘Mary Quant’, Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK, 6 April 2019–16 February 2020","authors":"L. Tregenza","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2019.1654231","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2019.1654231","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":"50 1","pages":"253 - 255"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2019.1654231","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43624241","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Alan Powers, Enid Marx: The Pleasures of Pattern","authors":"F. Hackney","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2019.1653643","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2019.1653643","url":null,"abstract":"This lavishly illustrated book, the first monograph on the artist, designer and collector Enid Marx (1902–1998), aims to present to wider audiences the range and quality of her work as a textile ar...","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":"50 1","pages":"267 - 268"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2019.1653643","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43467312","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Editorial Note","authors":"Marina Moskowitz, Vivienne Richmond","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2019.1665797","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2019.1665797","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":"50 1","pages":"123 - 126"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2019.1665797","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45853997","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}