TEXTILE HISTORY最新文献

{"title":"The Production and Trade of Hand-Knitted Wool Stockings in Elizabethan and Early Jacobean England (c. 1580–c. 1617)","authors":"Lesley A. O’Connell Edwards","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2024.2392495","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2024.2392495","url":null,"abstract":"It is estimated that around ten million pairs of knitted stockings were needed annually by the population of England at the end of the sixteenth century, and further pairs were exported abroad. Thi...","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2024-09-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142258554","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A Set of Liturgical Vestments and Textiles Made for the Requiem Mass in the Early Eighteenth Century","authors":"N. Gentle","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2024.2332869","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2024.2332869","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2024-06-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141363626","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Redrafting Domestic Life: Women Textile Designers and New Professional Enterprises in Early 1970s Britain","authors":"Frances Robertson","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2024.2318664","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2024.2318664","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2024-05-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141104456","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Early Twentieth-Century Nottingham Lace Curtains: An Ideal Window Furnishing","authors":"Carol Quarini","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2024.2318661","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2024.2318661","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2024-05-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140994531","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Pika Ghosh, Making Kantha, Making Home: Women at Work in Colonial Bengal","authors":"Edward S. Cooke Jr.","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2021.1948186","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2021.1948186","url":null,"abstract":"(2021). Pika Ghosh, Making Kantha, Making Home: Women at Work in Colonial Bengal. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 213-214.","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-05-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138508915","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"‘Zoom Into This Embroidered Panel for a Cabinet Door’","authors":"Holly Fletcher","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2021.2037911","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2021.2037911","url":null,"abstract":"(2021). ‘Zoom Into This Embroidered Panel for a Cabinet Door’. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 200-203.","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-05-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138508914","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Queering the Subversive Stitch: Men and the Culture of Needlework","authors":"Christopher Breward","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2022.2193078","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2022.2193078","url":null,"abstract":"but also within the international fashion sector. Although the editors provide an excellent bibliographic review of Spanish fashion history in their introduction, the book omits bibliographic sources in international and Spanish historiography that would have helped to better contextualise the topic for an Anglo-Saxon audience. For example, references to the London punk underground movement, the fashion photography trends led by Martin Muncaksi and continued by Richard Avedon, or Balenciaga’s role in the international fashion scene during the 1940s, would have supported a better understanding of some of the topics discussed. After all, La Movida, Spanish fashion photography and Balenciaga’s work for Spanish films in the 1940s, were part of wider, international tendencies. The great merit of this edited volume is its inclusion of a diverse range of approaches that enrich the subject. It pioneers the study of current Spanish fashion and lays the foundations to move forward. Therefore, Fashioning Spain. From Mantillas to Rosal ıa is recommended reading for all scholars of Spanish fashion.","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42082168","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Walls of Cloth: Tentergrounds and Cloth Production in Bruges, c. 1200–1600","authors":"Mathijs Speecke","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2022.2112536","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2022.2112536","url":null,"abstract":"The example of the tentergrounds in late medieval Bruges shows how landowners—both public and private—profited from unfavourable geo-morphological conditions to create vast industrial spaces used for the drying, stretching, and shearing of woollen cloths. A combination of evidence from historical and toponymical records gives us a unique insight into the changing scale and impact of this industry on the medieval urban landscape. This evidence also reveals the ways in which these industrial spaces were controlled, appropriated, (re)organised and put to different usages by various actors, social groups, and institutions, depending on commercial changes and economic interests.","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42695615","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Dressing Up: The Women Who Influenced French Fashion","authors":"Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2022.2193079","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2022.2193079","url":null,"abstract":"In Gilded Age America—where an estimated seventy-one per cent of private wealth was concentrated in the hands of the nine per cent—fashion was both an economic and social engine. Expensive laundry was a form of money laundering: converting sometimes dubiously obtained cash into cultural capital in the form of French fashion. Dressing Up explores the ‘soft diplomacy’ that women of the New World exercised by buying dresses from the Old World—along with art, interior decor and, occasionally, husbands. French garments and ‘fancy articles’ were available in the US as early as the 1840s, imported by local dressmakers who made regular trips to Paris. By the 1880s, thanks to improvements in international travel and communication, American women who could afford it were doing their shopping in Paris, though they continued to patronise stateside dressmakers and department stores. ‘Proxy shopping’ for hometown friends and family was a timeconsuming part of this fashion tourism. Paris was the home of haute couture: luxury fashion custom-made for elite clients. (The French term for ready-to-wear clothing was not couture but confection.) The history of haute couture has foregrounded the virtuosity of the designer, who was often (though not always) male—a narrative that Charles Frederick Worth has, rather unfairly, dominated. Block argues, persuasively, that female clients were ‘active participants in the large, transnational fashion system’—and that American women played a key role in shaping ‘French’ style. Along with their innate good taste, good looks and deep pockets, they brought their ‘entrenched frugality’—a holdover from Puritan provincialism—and ‘high textile I.Q.’ to bear on Gallic genius. Block explores the role of international expositions, which were places to preview the latest in taste and technology, and to see and be seen: visitors dressed to impress. Yet these costly gambits could bring financial ruin as well as good publicity to the fashion dealers who exhibited their wares. Lavish fancy dress balls functioned as extensions of the operas that usually preceded these late-night affairs; costumed guests strutted in vast, empty ballrooms like actors on a stage. These important fashion activations have been covered elsewhere, but Block fleshes out the story, introducing lesserknown names like Madame Olympe, Morin-Blossier (who dressed Princess Alexandra) and Maison F elix, the presumed designer of the black gown worn by John Singer Sargent’sMadame X. Most impressively, Block untangles the fascinating ties between couturiers and coiffeurs, milliners and perfumers. Both hair and dresses were routinely scented, and fashion magazines often identified the perfume as well as the dressmaker, hairdresser and corset-maker responsible for an outfit in a fashion plate. French hair salons advertised ‘American comfort’ and ‘American’ shampoo—that is, shampoo used with water, as opposed to French dry shampoo. Tantalising references to professional hair colouri","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44499676","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Textiles in Burman Culture","authors":"R. Hamilton","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2022.2193081","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2022.2193081","url":null,"abstract":"larly useful in regard to establishing processes to minimise the effects of agents of deterioration (such as pests, pollutants, light), for example, implementing a regular gallery maintenance program and monitoring light levels. An essential part of the book is the section on condition surveys and treatment methodologies. Following a philosophy of minimal intervention, Marko guides the reader through the process of making treatment decisions. She outlines the objectives to be considered in determining appropriate cleaning methods, and in developing options for structural support and display. This discussion also covers conservation stitching and infill techniques used to compensate for loss—methods that reinstate images to enhance the visual presentation of a tapestry. Marko views previous interventions as part of the history of an object—a philosophy that is now generally accepted in the field of textile conservation. When relevant, Marko advocates strengthening weakened historical repairs with stitching techniques. She carefully considers the removal of previous interventions on a case-by-case basis. For example, if there are repairs, restorations or alterations that are causing distortion and undermining the physical stability of a tapestry, these could be removed. Toward the end of the book, Marko expertly illustrates the topics discussed in previous chapters through twenty case studies. Each highlights a specific conservation challenge and presents accessible directions for the treatment strategies Marko and her team employed (it is clear from her presentation that teamwork is integral to the successful outcome of a project). Here, as throughout the book, she uses images to communicate the elements of the intricate and laborious procedures involved in conserving tapestries. Marko shares a wealth of information in this seminal publication. The book concludes with appendices on materials and equipment used in conservation treatments. The appendices also include examples of standard procedures such as condition reporting and documentation, which are seen as obligatory for the fulfilment of the conservator’s responsibility to preserve findings for the future, and to create a foundation for productive conservation and curatorial discussions. The glossary, index and bibliography provide further helpful resources to guide the reader through the rich technical content of the book. Woven Tapestry: Guidelines for Conservation is an important contribution to the field of textile conservation. The book is an essential resource not only for experts in the field, but for beginners as well. Indeed, it is accessible to any reader with an interest in the preservation of this highly complex and technically sophisticated art form.","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42369694","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}