Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies最新文献

{"title":"Gourmet and the Ghetto","authors":"Sean Wyer","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.29","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.29","url":null,"abstract":"In the twenty-first century, Rome’s former Jewish Ghetto has experienced rapid “foodification,” in which food businesses come to dominate a previously residential or mixed-use neighborhood. Why and how has foodification taken place in Rome’s former Ghetto, and how unique is this case? What can this example teach us about foodification as a phenomenon? Foodification is influenced by broader forces, including gentrification, but is also affected by factors particular to this neighborhood. These include Jewish heritage tourism; religious dietary laws; and a growing curiosity about hyper-local food, such as cucina ebraico-romanesca (Jewish-Roman cuisine), and about dishes outside the Italian canon. Jewish-style and kosher restaurants have developed to stimulate and satisfy multiple demands, serving “traditional” Jewish-Roman dishes; Middle-Eastern and North African dishes; new interpretations of popular Italian dishes; and kosher versions of international foods popular in Italy, like hamburgers and sushi rolls. Contrary to the idea that this diversity threatens the Jewish-Roman tradition, I argue that the neighborhood’s foodscape reflects the variety of communities and tastes in contemporary Rome, where local specialties persist alongside a wide range of other options. This article argues that although foodification is often connected to gentrification and tourism, it should be distinguished from these phenomena. By asking how the former Ghetto’s new restaurants communicate heritage and identity, I demonstrate that foodification can take place in ways that are specific to a particular neighborhood, and that the food has become one of the major means by which the former Ghetto’s past and present character is articulated in Rome.","PeriodicalId":429420,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies","volume":"30 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135550382","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Review: <i>Ingredients for Revolution: A History of American Feminist Restaurants, Cafes and Coffeehouses</i>, by Alex D. Ketchum","authors":"Kristin Plys","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.94","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.94","url":null,"abstract":"Book Review| August 01 2023 Review: Ingredients for Revolution: A History of American Feminist Restaurants, Cafes and Coffeehouses, by Alex D. Ketchum Ingredients for Revolution: A History of American Feminist Restaurants, Cafes and Coffeehouses, Alex D. Ketchum, Montreal: Concordia University Press, 2022, 432 pp. Illustrations. $29.95 (paper); (eBook) Kristin Plys Kristin Plys University of Toronto kristin.plys@utoronto.ca Search for other works by this author on: This Site PubMed Google Scholar kristin.plys@utoronto.ca Gastronomica (2023) 23 (3): 94–96. https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.94 Views Icon Views Article contents Figures & tables Video Audio Supplementary Data Peer Review Share Icon Share Facebook Twitter LinkedIn Email Tools Icon Tools Get Permissions Cite Icon Cite Search Site Citation Kristin Plys; Review: Ingredients for Revolution: A History of American Feminist Restaurants, Cafes and Coffeehouses, by Alex D. Ketchum. Gastronomica 1 August 2023; 23 (3): 94–96. doi: https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.94 Download citation file: Ris (Zotero) Reference Manager EasyBib Bookends Mendeley Papers EndNote RefWorks BibTex toolbar search Search Dropdown Menu toolbar search search input Search input auto suggest filter your search All ContentGastronomica Search This past Sunday, my parents and I had brunch at LesbiVeggies, a Black- and queer-owned vegan café. Over our excellent meal, my parents recounted stories of feminist restaurants they used to frequent when they were first dating in the late 1970s. This lovely Sunday afternoon of great food and fun stories was inspired by Alex D. Ketchum’s Ingredients for Revolution (2022). After you read this book, you will view your local feminist café with a deeper appreciation not just for the role this space serves in your community, but for its historical importance in fostering feminist and lesbian culture in communities across the United States. Ingredients for Revolution reconstructs and analyzes the history of feminist restaurants and coffeehouses in the United States in the 1970s and 1980s. Ketchum provides a comprehensive analysis of place and space, exploring the multiple aspects of the feminist restaurant/café. Her narrative begins with the possibilities... You do not currently have access to this content.","PeriodicalId":429420,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies","volume":"17 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135550609","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Review: <i>Anxious Eaters: Why We Fall for Fad Diets</i>, by Janet Chrzan and Kima Cargill","authors":"Chad Lavin","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.93","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.93","url":null,"abstract":"Book Review| August 01 2023 Review: Anxious Eaters: Why We Fall for Fad Diets, by Janet Chrzan and Kima Cargill Anxious Eaters: Why We Fall for Fad Diets, Janet Chrzan and Kima Cargill, New York: Columbia University Press, 2022, 360 pp. $28.00 (hardcover); (eBook) Chad Lavin Chad Lavin University at Buffalo, SUNY clavin@buffalo.edu Search for other works by this author on: This Site PubMed Google Scholar clavin@buffalo.edu Gastronomica (2023) 23 (3): 93–94. https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.93 Views Icon Views Article contents Figures & tables Video Audio Supplementary Data Peer Review Share Icon Share Facebook Twitter LinkedIn Email Tools Icon Tools Get Permissions Cite Icon Cite Search Site Citation Chad Lavin; Review: Anxious Eaters: Why We Fall for Fad Diets, by Janet Chrzan and Kima Cargill. Gastronomica 1 August 2023; 23 (3): 93–94. doi: https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.93 Download citation file: Ris (Zotero) Reference Manager EasyBib Bookends Mendeley Papers EndNote RefWorks BibTex toolbar search Search Dropdown Menu toolbar search search input Search input auto suggest filter your search All ContentGastronomica Search This intensive study of fad diets opens with the enticing query: “Why this diet, and why now?” (p. 10), and quickly teases that an answer will be found in “the forces that make diets available” or the “cultural channels” through which they flow (pp. 10, 45). That’s a bit misleading, suggesting a political economy of the diet industry, which this book is not. Instead, authors Janet Chrzan (an anthropologist) and Kima Cargill (a psychologist) offer something more interesting. They argue that people embrace diet fads because they promise silver-bullet deliverance from the stressors of modern life. The book identifies four categories of fad diet: food removal (your classic “avoid X or Y” diets), food addiction or affliction (similar, but focusing on the eater’s particular sensitivity to the offending food, rather than the food itself), Clean Eating (predicated on the idea that some foods or practices are toxic and must be... You do not currently have access to this content.","PeriodicalId":429420,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies","volume":"60 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135550605","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Lessons from a Kangaroo","authors":"Kelly Donati","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.1","url":null,"abstract":"Research Article| August 01 2023 Lessons from a Kangaroo Kelly Donati Kelly Donati Kelly Donati is senior lecturer in food systems and gastronomy at William Angliss Institute (Melbourne). Her research explores multispecies encounters in food and farming practices of the Anthropocene. She is a founding director of Sustain: the Australian Food Network, a not-for-profit focused on research and policy for food system transformation. Kelly.Donati@angliss.edu.au Search for other works by this author on: This Site PubMed Google Scholar Kelly.Donati@angliss.edu.au Gastronomica (2023) 23 (3): 1–6. https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.1 Views Icon Views Article contents Figures & tables Video Audio Supplementary Data Peer Review Share Icon Share Facebook Twitter LinkedIn Email Tools Icon Tools Get Permissions Cite Icon Cite Search Site Citation Kelly Donati; Lessons from a Kangaroo. Gastronomica 1 August 2023; 23 (3): 1–6. doi: https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.1 Download citation file: Ris (Zotero) Reference Manager EasyBib Bookends Mendeley Papers EndNote RefWorks BibTex toolbar search Search Dropdown Menu toolbar search search input Search input auto suggest filter your search All ContentGastronomica Search Great economizers of energy, kangaroos travel long distances with ease and efficiency. Their unique locomotion symbolizes movement and progress on the Australian coat of arms, capturing the spirit of a young, forward-looking nation in the colonial imaginary. Emblazoned in red across the tail of Qantas airplanes, Australia’s largest airline, a bounding kangaroo in full flight signals the exciting possibilities of effortless travel. In my own anthropocentric fantasies, I have always felt there is something very human about how kangaroos appear to revel in the capacities their clever physiology affords them. Decades after moving to Australia as an adult, spotting a mob of kangaroos propped on their elbows in casual recline as they laze in an open paddock still sparks childlike excitement. On my visits back home to Québec, my niece and nephew would press me for stories of these strange, charismatic creatures from the other side of the world. In... You do not currently have access to this content.","PeriodicalId":429420,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies","volume":"65 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135550614","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Ancient Greenwashing","authors":"Chelsea Fisher, Clara Albacete","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.46","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.46","url":null,"abstract":"The strategy of greenwashing has come to occupy a powerful place in sustainable marketing by employing techniques aimed to alleviate the guilt of eco-conscious eaters while obscuring the realities of a company’s true environmental impacts. In this paper, we examine a particular kind of greenwashed marketing we call “ancient greenwashing,” which invokes references to ancient (precolonial) civilizations as a branding strategy targeted at consumers seeking a more authentic and sustainable way of eating. We contend that this marketing masks the colonial legacies that uphold and perpetuate the injustices of modern global food systems, and here we work to counter those claims by contextualizing them within the archaeological study of past sustainability and a discussion of green capitalism more broadly. In addition to compiling examples of ancient greenwashing of six so-called superfoods documented online, we also visited a sample of grocery stores to collect information about the accessibility, amount, and cost of ancient greenwashed quinoa and chia, and found a positive correlation between the brand prices of these foods and the presence of ancient greenwashing. We discuss these results and their implications for the ways ancient greenwashing works to mask deeper injustices in our food systems.","PeriodicalId":429420,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies","volume":"10 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135550854","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Contributors","authors":"","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.vii","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.vii","url":null,"abstract":"Other| August 01 2023 Contributors Gastronomica (2023) 23 (3): vii. https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.vii Views Icon Views Article contents Figures & tables Video Audio Supplementary Data Peer Review Share Icon Share Facebook Twitter LinkedIn Email Tools Icon Tools Get Permissions Cite Icon Cite Search Site Citation Contributors. Gastronomica 1 August 2023; 23 (3): vii. doi: https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.vii Download citation file: Ris (Zotero) Reference Manager EasyBib Bookends Mendeley Papers EndNote RefWorks BibTex toolbar search Search Dropdown Menu toolbar search search input Search input auto suggest filter your search All ContentGastronomica Search Clara Albacete is a recent graduate from Washington and Lee University, where she received her degree in environmental studies. Previous food-related study includes her senior thesis entitled Yerba Mate: Earth as a Companion. Daniel E. Bender is the Canada Research Chair in Food and Culture and a professor of food studies at the University of Toronto. He is the author, most recently, of The Food Adventurers: How Around-the-World Travel Changed the Way We Eat (Reaktion Books, 2023). He is a WSET Diploma Candidate and a Certified Specialist in Wine. Kelly Donati is senior lecturer in food systems and gastronomy at William Angliss Institute (Melbourne). Her research explores multispecies encounters in food and farming practices of the Anthropocene. She is a founding director of Sustain: the Australian Food Network, a not-for-profit focused on research and policy for food system transformation. Chelsea Fisher is an anthropologist working to develop creative applications... You do not currently have access to this content.","PeriodicalId":429420,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies","volume":"21 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135550606","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Review: <i>Early Jewish Cookbooks: Essays on Hungarian Jewish Gastronomical History</i>, by András Koerner","authors":"Jonathan Brumberg-Kraus","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.90","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.90","url":null,"abstract":"Book Review| August 01 2023 Review: Early Jewish Cookbooks: Essays on Hungarian Jewish Gastronomical History, by András Koerner Early Jewish Cookbooks: Essays on Hungarian Jewish Gastronomical History, András Koerner, Budapest: Central European University Press, 2022, 272 pp. Illustrations. $75.00 (hardcover) Jonathan Brumberg-Kraus Jonathan Brumberg-Kraus Wheaton College (MA) brumberg-kraus_jonathan@wheatoncollege.edu Search for other works by this author on: This Site PubMed Google Scholar brumberg-kraus_jonathan@wheatoncollege.edu Gastronomica (2023) 23 (3): 90–91. https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.90 Views Icon Views Article contents Figures & tables Video Audio Supplementary Data Peer Review Share Icon Share Facebook Twitter LinkedIn Email Tools Icon Tools Get Permissions Cite Icon Cite Search Site Citation Jonathan Brumberg-Kraus; Review: Early Jewish Cookbooks: Essays on Hungarian Jewish Gastronomical History, by András Koerner. Gastronomica 1 August 2023; 23 (3): 90–91. doi: https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.3.90 Download citation file: Ris (Zotero) Reference Manager EasyBib Bookends Mendeley Papers EndNote RefWorks BibTex toolbar search Search Dropdown Menu toolbar search search input Search input auto suggest filter your search All ContentGastronomica Search András Koerner’s Early Jewish Cookbooks makes an important contribution to our understanding of the diversity of Ashkenazic Jewish cuisine, namely, Hungarian Jewish cuisine. Furthermore, Koerner demonstrates how to use cookbooks as historical sources and notes the importance of cookbooks and cuisines as strategies for modern European Jewish acculturation. For those unfamiliar with Koerner’s work or with Hungarian Jewish cuisine, Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett, who is probably better known to Gastronomica’s readers, provides an excellent preface to the book, situating Koerner’s work in the general study of cookbooks and the particular study of Ashkenazic Jewish food. Koerner’s book shows how late nineteenth- to pre-World War II twentieth-century Hungarian Jewish cookbooks represent Hungarian Jewish acculturation strategies expressed in middle- to upper-middle-class aspirations. Koerner stresses the importance of a close reading of the language of the cookbooks (usually German), their sources, the specifics of their publication, or in the case of his great-grandmother’s cookbook,... You do not currently have access to this content.","PeriodicalId":429420,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies","volume":"42 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135550610","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Review: Packaged Pleasures: How Technology and Marketing Revolutionized Desire, by Gary S. Cross and Robert N. Proctor","authors":"Zenia Malmer","doi":"10.1525/GFC.2018.18.1.99","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/GFC.2018.18.1.99","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":429420,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies","volume":"19 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2018-02-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"114725559","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Review: Chop Suey, USA: The Story of Chinese Food in America, by Yong Chen","authors":"Stephanie T. Chan","doi":"10.1525/GFC.2016.16.4.116A","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/GFC.2016.16.4.116A","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":429420,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies","volume":"59 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2016-11-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126956920","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Seeding Controversy: Did Israel Invent the Cherry Tomato?","authors":"Anna Wexler","doi":"10.1525/GFC.2016.16.2.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/GFC.2016.16.2.1","url":null,"abstract":"This research brief explores the controversial history of the cherry tomato and analyzes its role in the construction of Israel9s national identity. Since 2003, mentions of Israel having “invented” the cherry tomato have appeared in both Israeli and international media. However, such claims have sparked outrage on various blogs and websites, and questions have been raised about the veracity of Israel9s claims—as well as about the true origin of the cherry tomato. I explore the history of the cherry tomato, tracing mentions of it from the Renaissance period to modern times. In addition, I clarify the assertions of Israeli scientists credited with the development of the cherry tomato—that their research transformed the cherry tomato into a commodity in the 1980s. Finally, I discuss the cherry tomato claim in light of the Israeli government9s hasbara (Hebrew for “explanation”) efforts, which attempt to counter negative images of Israel in the international press. While much previous scholarship on food and nationalism has focused on the relationship between the cultivation, preparation, or consumption of a food and the construction of a national identity, the present work focuses on the relationship between the food9s invention narrative and national identity. By transforming the cherry tomato into an embodiment of technological innovation, I argue that hasbara separates the cherry tomato from its essence as a food and co-opts it into a symbol of modernity and progress.","PeriodicalId":429420,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies","volume":"105 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2016-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"123170454","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}