{"title":"VASTRAVIKAS: UNRAVELING INDIA'S SUSTAINABLE GARMENT LEGACY","authors":"Ritika Soni, Neelam Agrawal Srivastava","doi":"10.29121/shodhkosh.v5.i2.2024.928","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.29121/shodhkosh.v5.i2.2024.928","url":null,"abstract":"The clothing and textile industry, a cornerstone of India's rich heritage, is shifting towards sustainable practices by emphasizing reducing, reusing, and recycling materials. This approach ensures that waste decomposes naturally, promoting sustainability. The retail sector in India has grown significantly, evolving from a seller-driven to a buyer-driven market. Historically, India's retailing started with barter systems, exchanging goods of similar value without money, which played a vital role in the economy and offered solutions to modern cash flow issues.This study examines the recycling practices involving clothes collected by hawkers. Survey results show that urban respondents understand recycling as creating new items from old ones. Hawkers gather used garments, sort, inspect, clean, and then produce useful recycled products. These recycled garments are often bought by middle-class families at affordable prices for their housemaids.To promote sustainable practices in the textile industry, several strategies are recommended. Organizing workshops and training sessions on upcycling can help individuals repurpose old clothing creatively. Establishing community repair centers or providing resources for basic clothing repair techniques can emphasize the importance of repairing and modifying garments. Educational campaigns and community events can promote clothing donations, preserve cultural heritage, and reduce waste. Supporting sustainable textiles involves encouraging local artisans, weavers, and the textile industry, and urging designers to incorporate traditional techniques and fabrics. Awareness campaigns through social media and community events can educate people about the traditional Indian model of garment reuse, further promoting sustainability in the textile industry.","PeriodicalId":425253,"journal":{"name":"ShodhKosh: Journal of Visual and Performing Arts","volume":"36 23","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-07-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141659370","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"THE PROBLEMS OF MIMI: UNDERSTANDING THE CONCERNS OF SEMI-URBAN WOMEN IN CONTEXT OF THE FILM MIMI","authors":"Reema Chakrabarti, Shah Al Mamun Sarkar","doi":"10.29121/shodhkosh.v5.i2.2024.787","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.29121/shodhkosh.v5.i2.2024.787","url":null,"abstract":"This paper aims to critically analyze the film- Mimi Utekar (2021) to understand certain issues raised in its text through a popular mode of representation. The film is very recent and has become immensely successful, thus establishing its relevance from the point of research. It mainly deals with the topic of surrogacy to further highlight certain problems impending upon the day-to-day lives of common semi-urban Indian women. In the first place, this film problematizes the aspect of technology that has encroached everywhere including the realm of motherhood. Secondly, it has also dealt with the question of eastern values vs western technology through a feminine lens. Apart from this, the realistic depiction of motherhood as an independent but shackling choice also deserves some attention. The film has been chosen over other socially relevant films because of its distinct concerns pervading semi-urban Indian women who lie somewhere in the middle of Eastern values and western influence. Finally, the film is chosen over other surrogacy-based films for its practical representation of the concerns related to surrogate motherhood.","PeriodicalId":425253,"journal":{"name":"ShodhKosh: Journal of Visual and Performing Arts","volume":" 3","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-07-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141674180","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"FEMINIST MESSAGES IN RITUPARNO GHOSH’S FILMS ‘CHOKHERBALI’ AND ‘BAARIWALI’: A CRITICAL ANALYSIS OF FEMALE DESIRES","authors":"Noveena Chakravorty, Sharmila Kayal","doi":"10.29121/shodhkosh.v5.i2.2024.959","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.29121/shodhkosh.v5.i2.2024.959","url":null,"abstract":"Films are the reflection of the socio-psychological phenomenon of our society. Cinema is an influential medium that resonates with the culture, attitude, human thought process, and temperament of people in our society, especially in the context of Women. Females are often projected in a very stereotypical way in films. Indian mainstream films hardly explore women's psyche. The female characters mostly dwell in a minor part around the lead male actors/protagonists. The social, cultural, and economic conditions of middle-class Bengali families have a notable effect on Rituparno's works. He adapted Tagore's novel Chokherbali and described the character Binodini in his version. He depicted the unique equation between two female characters 'Binodini' and 'Ashalata' and their affinity towards the same man. He enlightened the impenitent sensual desire of a widow (Binodini) and her ego. The film, Chokherbali (A Grain of Sand) is a story of the love, desire, and loneliness of women. \"Bariwali,\" also known as \"The Lady of the House,\" is a Bengali film released in 2000. The story of a lonely, wealthy woman named Banalata, played by Kirron Kher, who becomes emotionally attached to a young filmmaker who comes to shoot a documentary at her mansion. The film explores themes of loneliness, desire, and the complexities of human relationships. Rituparno Ghosh was known for his sensitive storytelling and exploration of human emotions, and \"Bariwali\" is no exception. G.D. Anderson once quoted, \"Feminism isn't about making women strong, women are already strong. It's about changing the way the world perceives that strength. Source.” The same in the case of Rituparno Ghosh as an auteur who wrote his female characters very diligently and portrayed them on screen Muneer (2022). This is qualitative research and it critically analysed the storyline of the film ‘Chokher Bali’ and ‘Bariwali directed by Rituparno Ghosh. The study focussed on the female desire auteur theory and framing theory and it finds out the motivation behind his female desires, motivation and agony. The research paper deals with women’s issues, desires, and struggles for their existence in the contemporary socio-cultural context by analysing the frames and narratives.","PeriodicalId":425253,"journal":{"name":"ShodhKosh: Journal of Visual and Performing Arts","volume":" 67","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-07-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141680109","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"THE POWER OF COSTUME: DEFINING CHARACTER AND IDENTITY IN THEATRICAL PERFORMANCE","authors":"Nirbhay Rana","doi":"10.29121/shodhkosh.v5.i2.2024.1391","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.29121/shodhkosh.v5.i2.2024.1391","url":null,"abstract":"This research examines the historical significance of costume design in Indian theatrical performance, focusing on its role in defining character and identity through case-based analysis. By investigating specific case studies from key historical periods and traditional Indian theater forms—Classical Sanskrit drama, Kathakali, and Parsi theater—the study explores how costumes have been utilized to convey complex character identities and cultural narratives. Each case study provides an in-depth examination of costume design practices, materials, and symbolic meanings, highlighting the profound relationship between attire and character portrayal. Drawing on primary sources such as historical texts, visual records, and contemporary accounts, this research traces the evolution of costume design in Indian theater and its impact on narrative and audience perception. Through focused analysis, the study underscores the enduring power of costume in theatrical storytelling and its significance in India's cultural heritage. This case-based approach offers comprehensive insights for historians, theater practitioners, and costume designers interested in the legacy and ongoing influence of historical costume design in Indian performance traditions.","PeriodicalId":425253,"journal":{"name":"ShodhKosh: Journal of Visual and Performing Arts","volume":" 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-07-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141679667","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"EVOLUTION OF BELTS FROM BRONZE AGE TO MODERN FASHION STATEMENTS","authors":"Allu Poshitha Rajeswari, Greeshma S.","doi":"10.29121/shodhkosh.v5.i2.2024.1072","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.29121/shodhkosh.v5.i2.2024.1072","url":null,"abstract":"Across history, belts have evolved from their practical beginnings to become potent emblems of prestige, style, and cultural expression. Belts have come a long way from their utilitarian origins as instruments for carrying weapons in the Stone Age to their current position as opulent fashion accessories. The historical development of belts is examined in this essay, along with their functions in prehistoric times, the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, and the Modern Era. It explores the social significance of belts, how their form and function have evolved, and how they have continued to impact fashion trends. The study also addresses future directions and present trends in belt design, including technical advancements, cultural influences, and sustainability initiatives. By use of a historical context and current development analysis, this paper delves into the history of belts and its future trends and advancements.","PeriodicalId":425253,"journal":{"name":"ShodhKosh: Journal of Visual and Performing Arts","volume":"17 S3","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141689060","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"DESIGNING SUMMER WEAR APPAREL BY USING KUTHAMPULLY KASAVU SAREES","authors":"Gopika N Sasi, Sadhna","doi":"10.29121/shodhkosh.v5.i2.2024.1090","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.29121/shodhkosh.v5.i2.2024.1090","url":null,"abstract":"The Kerala saree, sometimes referred to as the Kasavu saree in the region, is a moving representation of the rich cultural legacy ingrained in Kerala, India. These sarees, which are crafted by the expert craftspeople of the Devanga Chettiar group, which is based in Kuthampully, a small town in the Thrissur district, are the embodiment of centuries' worth of elaborate artistry and tradition. In the sleepy village of Kuthampully, which has a population of more than two thousand, there is an unflinching commitment to celebrating and preserving this ancient weaving heritage This study investigates the traditional Kasavu sarees and their contemporary applications through a mixed-methods approach, integrating both qualitative and quantitative research techniques. The design process involved sourcing raw materials from Kuthampully, creating prints with reactive dye and smudge techniques. This study not only preserves the heritage of Kasavu sarees but also demonstrates their adaptability in modern fashion, offering a sustainable and innovative integration of traditional textiles into contemporary Western-style garments. This sustainable approach to fashion is not just a trend but a way to inspire change in the industry.","PeriodicalId":425253,"journal":{"name":"ShodhKosh: Journal of Visual and Performing Arts","volume":"717 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141707580","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"DEPICTION OF HINDU ICONOGRAPHY IN THE PAINTINGS OF THOTA VAIKUNTAM","authors":"Banti Kumar, Waseem Mushtaq","doi":"10.29121/shodhkosh.v5.i1.2024.981","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.29121/shodhkosh.v5.i1.2024.981","url":null,"abstract":"The history of a human being is also the history of who or why or how human beings have worshipped something that they believed was more powerful than them. The history of human being is also the history of artists as how they have imagined, depicted or visualized this superpower. For instance, in the Indus Valley Civilization, we find that humans made clay idols which may have been worshipped, for instance, in the form of Mother Goddess and Pashupati Nath. Across prehistoric, ancient and medieval periods, as the circumstances of human life changed, so did the nature of worshiping and the nature of art. This act of worship gave rise to some of the greatest religions in the world with their dedicated sacred text, rituals, followers, and patronage. Each religion had a distinct and unique equation with art and it was based on this equation that it became possible to study and interpret a work of art. This approach of study or interpretation was later classified as iconography. The present paper aims to locate the presence of Hindu iconography in modern India with special reference to the paintings of Thota Vaikuntam, who is known for drawing extensively from the iconographic representations of Shiva, Ganesh, and Krishna.","PeriodicalId":425253,"journal":{"name":"ShodhKosh: Journal of Visual and Performing Arts","volume":"83 14","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-06-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141337980","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"ICONOGRAPHY OF TWELVE SCULPTURES OF THE STATE MUSEUM OF BHUBANESWAR","authors":"Ratnakar Mohapatra","doi":"10.29121/shodhkosh.v5.i1.2024.1076","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.29121/shodhkosh.v5.i1.2024.1076","url":null,"abstract":"The iconography of six Shakta and six Vashnavite sculptures of the State Museum of Bhubaneswar is the main aspect of Odishan sculptural art in Eastern India. Saktism is a very important cult among the Hindus in all over Odisha as well as India. The beginning of Sakti cult in Odisha may be traced back to the days of Mahabharata. The growing popularity of the Sakti cult in Odisha is evident from the placing of independent sculptures of Sakti. The State Museum of Bhubaneswar has preserved a good number of the Sakta sculptures, which are collected from the different parts of the state. Among these, six Sakta sculptures are discussed in this article. The Vaishnavism was become widespread in the state of Odisha in the past. The cult of Gopinath Krishna was made popular during the Ganga era of Odiasha. The Ganga period marked the climax of Vaishnavism in Odisha. Some of the Vaishnavite sculptures are collected from different parts of Odisha and now these are preserved in the State Museum for public display. Among the preserved Vashnavite sculptures of the State Museum, two Varaha, two Krishna and two Vishnu images are also discussed in the present article. The above twelve sculptures of state museum are the well workmanship of the sculptors of the medieval Odisha. In fact, the above twelve sculptures are very important for iconographical study. That is why; the aim of this article is to highlight the iconography of twelve preserved sculptures of Odisha State Museum, Bhubaneswar.","PeriodicalId":425253,"journal":{"name":"ShodhKosh: Journal of Visual and Performing Arts","volume":"7 4","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-06-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141336749","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"AN OVERVIEW OF TRADITIONAL KANCHIPURAM SILK SAREES","authors":"Nellutla Keerthi, Mokanaa Sri E","doi":"10.29121/shodhkosh.v4.i2cdsdad.2023.1083","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.29121/shodhkosh.v4.i2cdsdad.2023.1083","url":null,"abstract":"Kanchipuram Silk Sarees are among the most desired traditional wear for the ever-bothersome question of elegance and prestige of culture, as well as for the legendary history of this district and the brilliantly exclusive craftsmanship combining this textile. South Indian bridal culture has existed for ages, and the Kanchipuram silk saree has been a ruling trend among more sophisticated ladies for a long time. The charming silk sarees, designed individually with gold or silver zari and pure silk threads, from Kanchipuram, a town in Tamil Nadu, are examples of the textile industry's brilliant creations. Kanchipuram Silk Sarees are a paragon of taste and history for their intricate craftsmanship that depicts their exclusive weaving styles, choice of luxury materials, and everlasting patterns. These sarees convey the rich textile legacy of our country and mesmerise worldwide fashion enthusiasts with their extraordinary combination of culture and modernity. They are still worn as a form of importance during events and passed down as family heirlooms because they are truly outstanding pieces. This paper covered the historical value, manufacturing methods, current trends, market identification, and cultural importance of Kanchipuram silk sarees in contemporary times. It also thoroughly describes the features and their still-thriving cognizance today in eastern Indian fabrics. In addition, the SWOT analysis included in this study highlights the strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, and threats associated with the Kanchipuram silk industry. Elements of the fabric, including durability and brilliance, as well as intricate patterns and motifs, are the main selling points for maintaining its rich cultural legacy.","PeriodicalId":425253,"journal":{"name":"ShodhKosh: Journal of Visual and Performing Arts","volume":"35 2","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-06-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141348492","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"RE-PRESENTATION OF HOMOSEXUALITY ON SCREEN: A COMPARATIVE STUDY OF THE MALAYALAM FILMS MOOTHON AND KAATHAL- THE CORE AS REPRESENTATIVES OF CULTURAL TRANSITION","authors":"Karthika Prajoth, Priya M.G.","doi":"10.29121/shodhkosh.v5.i1.2024.975","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.29121/shodhkosh.v5.i1.2024.975","url":null,"abstract":"Films are a significant part of popular culture that form the frame for exhibiting the culture of the times. Cinema shares a symbiotic relationship with culture by providing a platform for cultural representations and drawing inspiration from the cultural artefacts simultaneously. Two of the phenomenal off-centred Malayalam films, Moothon directed by Geetu Mohandas and Kaathal-The Core directed by Jeo Baby, become the recent trailblazers by unleashing the cultural transitions in exploring Homosexuality, its impact on the Malayalee audience and the necessity of comprehending the notion of queer space in the present Kerala society. Drawing theoretical insights from Eve Kosofsky Sedgewick's influential work The Epistemology of the Closet, Judith Butler’s “Gender Trouble: Feminism and the Subversion of Identity”, Gayle Rubin’s “Thinking Sex: Notes for a Radical Theory of the Politics of Sexuality” and Michael Foucault's concept of Heterotopia, this study explores the existential struggles and the trauma behind expressing one's unusual sexuality. Moreover, both the utopian and the dystopian perspectives in understanding the lives of the gay communities are analysed in this study with reference to the selected films. This paper is an attempt to focus on concepts such as free life, gender fluidity and queer spaces that are evolving around us.","PeriodicalId":425253,"journal":{"name":"ShodhKosh: Journal of Visual and Performing Arts","volume":"23 4","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-06-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141348733","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}