Working Girls最新文献

Working Girls Pub Date : 2019-10-31 DOI: 10.1093/oso/9780198841173.003.0003

P. Tilburg

{"title":"“Notre Petite Amie”","authors":"P. Tilburg","doi":"10.1093/oso/9780198841173.003.0003","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780198841173.003.0003","url":null,"abstract":"In 1900, composer and philanthropist Gustave Charpentier founded the Oeuvre de Mimi Pinson, an association providing the workingwomen of Paris with free theater tickets, and free music and dance classes. What began as an effort to provide occasional free entertainment to female workers became a multifaceted conservatory, charity, and social network. The men (and some women) who organized and administered the OMP did so by relying on the trope of the gay, seducible, and tasteful young garment worker. These assumptions defined not only the work of the OMP and its relationship with its working-class members, but also reinforced the comforting notion of workingwomen’s pliability for journalists, politicians, reformers, and countless casual observers. Even as the OMP proffered a vision of emancipated French womanhood as a national renovator, it also deployed a powerful typology of the Parisian garment worker to temper its radical potential. Defined and confined by a nineteenth-century type, the female garment workers of Paris were exemplary targets for a benevolent effort which, at a moment in which feminist action and labor militancy were consolidating, reimagined women’s emancipation and working-class uplift as a matter entirely managed by bourgeois male authority and desire.","PeriodicalId":403970,"journal":{"name":"Working Girls","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"130428419","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Conclusion 结论

Working Girls Pub Date : 2019-10-31 DOI: 10.1093/oso/9780198841173.003.0007

P. Tilburg

引用次数: 0

“They are nothing but birdbrains!” “他们只不过是些笨蛋!”

Working Girls Pub Date : 2019-10-31 DOI: 10.1093/oso/9780198841173.003.0005

P. Tilburg

{"title":"“They are nothing but birdbrains!”","authors":"P. Tilburg","doi":"10.1093/oso/9780198841173.003.0005","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780198841173.003.0005","url":null,"abstract":"From 1901, the Parisian clothing trades saw a remarkable escalation of labor activism and subsequent legislative reform driven by and on behalf of the more than 80,000 women working in the capital’s couture industry. Time and again (in 1901, 1908, 1910, 1911, 1916, 1917, 1918, and 1919), the midinettes of Paris took to the boulevards in work stoppages that captured unprecedented media attention and garnered meaningful gains for garment workers across the city. French journalists, government officials, and labor leaders alike promoted a romantic and infantilizing vision of the female garment strikers as insouciant girls in need of paternal care (whether of the state, union, or reforming bourgeoisie), and replicated the pervasive belle époque type of the midinette. In the face of strikes in the heavily feminine garment trades, an image of the female Parisian fashion worker as charmingly capricious and pleasure-loving persisted. This chapter assesses the symbolic work performed by such a persistence, and also attends to the workingwomen who lamented the condescension of strike coverage and stressed their own demands and experience. In tracing the discursive work of the midinette as type, this chapter draws upon archival material from the Préfecture de Police, union journals, cartoons, workers’ memoirs, reform inquiries, songs, novels, and newspapers. The aestheticization of workingwomen had real consequences for the handling of garment trade militancy by the press, politicians, police, labor leaders, and couture workers themselves. It also framed the evolution of a new brand of militant midinette over the course of these strikes","PeriodicalId":403970,"journal":{"name":"Working Girls","volume":"36 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"124678183","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

“Without Rival” “没有竞争对手”

Working Girls Pub Date : 2019-10-31 DOI: 10.1093/oso/9780198841173.003.0002

P. Tilburg

{"title":"“Without Rival”","authors":"P. Tilburg","doi":"10.1093/oso/9780198841173.003.0002","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780198841173.003.0002","url":null,"abstract":"During the belle époque, a vision of Parisian garment workers as guardians of a French cultural monopoly on luxury taste was deployed by trade industrialists, labor inspectors, philanthropists, and government officials assessing the state of the garment industry. In examining exhibition reports, ministerial inquiries, and labor reform commissions, it becomes evident that assertions of French fashion genius were threaded throughout debates about industrial trade and regulation for audiences both abroad and at home. This reveals a peculiarly French investment in fashion and tastefulness. Furthermore, national taste supremacy combined with fears about the vulnerability of the couture industry to stymie attempts at regulating workplace and environmental hazards in this period. This chapter begins by exploring rhetoric about the Parisian garment worker around the Franco-British Exhibition of 1908, when French and British commentators alike praised French luxury garment products, and evoked Paris as the site of garment trade art and Parisian workingwomen as the preternaturally tasteful if antediluvian instruments of that art. It then interrogates how such encomia to garment worker taste and vulnerability operated in two debates about workplace reform during the belle époque: efforts to eliminate night garment work and those to regulate toxic substances in artificial flowermaking.","PeriodicalId":403970,"journal":{"name":"Working Girls","volume":"12 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"133080555","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

“An Appetite to Be Pretty” “渴望变漂亮”

Working Girls Pub Date : 2019-10-31 DOI: 10.1093/oso/9780198841173.003.0004

P. Tilburg

{"title":"“An Appetite to Be Pretty”","authors":"P. Tilburg","doi":"10.1093/oso/9780198841173.003.0004","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780198841173.003.0004","url":null,"abstract":"This chapter considers a defining moment of the working Parisienne’s day to which early twentieth-century French observers returned again and again: midi. The noon lunch break afforded Parisian artists, writers, and tourists alike a daily glimpse of the “fairies” of the city’s luxury garment workshops as they took to the boulevards and parks for an hour in the sun—an hour imagined to consist of flirtation, window-shopping, laughter, and, I will establish, conspicuous under-eating. Indeed, crucial to the picturesque allure of the lunchtime seductions that filled popular midinette literature was the notion of the female garment worker as a frivolous under-eater cheerfully forfeiting food for fashion and pleasure. No longer the tragically starving workingwoman of nineteenth-century fiction and art, nor her virtuous, anorectic middle-class sister, whose physical wasting increased their moral fortitude, the under-eating midinette of the early twentieth century was envisioned doing so as a means of engaging more fully in the capitalist marketplace, making her body a more appealing advertisement for and object of urban consumption. This cultural fantasy of the midinette’s lunch hour, which fetishized the supposed moral precariousness of her lifestyle as well as the sparseness of her diet, was echoed by social reformers, who, in this same period, sought to carve out spaces for workingwomen’s lunches that kept them from the cafés and parks where they were believed to flirt much and eat little.","PeriodicalId":403970,"journal":{"name":"Working Girls","volume":"14 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"128648410","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Mimi Pinson Goes to War 米米·平森参加了战争

Working Girls Pub Date : 2019-10-31 DOI: 10.1093/oso/9780198841173.003.0006

P. Tilburg

{"title":"Mimi Pinson Goes to War","authors":"P. Tilburg","doi":"10.1093/oso/9780198841173.003.0006","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780198841173.003.0006","url":null,"abstract":"During World War I, the midinettes of Paris suffered unemployment and drastically cut wages; at the same time, they were elevated in wartime ephemera as a nostalgic and erotic image of a France made whole. They were embraced by the press, by government agencies, and by trench soldiers as a soothing counterimage to more troubling female types on the homefront. As a cheerful and desirable national girlfriend, the Parisian garment worker was imagined offering her body, her gaiety, and her inimitable taste to the war effort. Physical intimacy between these women and trench soldiers emerged, particularly in the early years of the war, as a potent fantasy of pre-war wholeness—with the midinette’s body serving as a talisman to ward off violence, defeat, and death. Two patriotic initiatives through Charpentier’s Oeuvre de Mimi Pinson are examined. First, the Cocarde de Mimi Pinson, a campaign by female Parisian needle workers to manufacture tricolor cockades for front soldiers. What began as the spontaneous production of morale-boosting mementos by a group of unemployed garment workers soon expanded to include a government-funded exposition, a shop, an operetta, poems, and several songs. Second, Charpentier created an association to fund and train workingwomen as nurses. Government officials, journalists, and even soldiers applauded garment workers’ patriotic participation under the sign of Mimi Pinson, gay guardian of French taste and the loving and (safely) eroticized national Girlfriend.","PeriodicalId":403970,"journal":{"name":"Working Girls","volume":"65 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"132868757","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

From Grisette to Midinette 从Grisette到Midinette

Working Girls Pub Date : 2019-10-31 DOI: 10.1093/oso/9780198841173.003.0001

P. Tilburg

{"title":"From Grisette to Midinette","authors":"P. Tilburg","doi":"10.1093/oso/9780198841173.003.0001","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780198841173.003.0001","url":null,"abstract":"This chapter examines the early nineteenth-century grisette as a literary type, and traces her reappearance on the cultural scene as a figure of nostalgia at the turn of the nineteenth century. By the turn of the century, the grisette of the 1830s and 1840s still regularly appeared throughout French popular culture as a sign of heightened romantic longing for a lost Paris, a France of small-scale industry, sentiment, and elegance. She was frequently conflated with contemporary garment workers, tethering living belle époque workingwomen to a figure of literary wistfulness. Parisian garment workers were repeatedly cast in the mold of a pleasing throwback, a woman at once thoroughly embedded in the modern Parisian landscape and yet, also, out of time, carrying within her the essence and soul of a lost or endangered France. The most popular grisette at the turn of the century was Musset’s Mimi Pinson, who was featured in songs, poems, postcards, ballet, vaudeville shows, short stories, novels, and films. This chapter also develops a physiognomy of the grisette’s belle époque descendant, the midinette, a modernized version of the type, and inheritor of both the grisette’s cultural significance and her limitations. From strike reportage to pulp novels to monuments, the Parisian garment worker found eroticized and socially useful shades of herself promoted around her city and nation in these years, shades which more often than not moved backward in time to the grisette of the 1830s and 1840s.","PeriodicalId":403970,"journal":{"name":"Working Girls","volume":"23 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"114318299","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0