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Fabric Composition and Wearability Analysis of Zhuanghua 庄花的面料组成与穿着性能分析
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术
Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe Pub Date : 2022-07-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2022-0033
Ying Sun, Zheng Liu, Jeffrey Silberman, Jue Hou, Jian Dai
{"title":"Fabric Composition and Wearability Analysis of Zhuanghua","authors":"Ying Sun, Zheng Liu, Jeffrey Silberman, Jue Hou, Jian Dai","doi":"10.2478/ftee-2022-0033","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0033","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Zhuanghua is a representative variety of Nanjing Yun brocade, symbolising the highest achievement of ancient Chinese textile technology. It has been widely used as a clothing fabric since its appearance. This paper firstly explored the characteristics of weaving materials, fabric weaves, and fabric weaving of Zhuanghua based on a literature review, manufactory visiting, and a market survey. To preserve the textile application, the permeability, shape preservation property, and appearance preservation property of fabric were tested for wearability. Specifically, six pieces of Zhuanghua satin were selected as the primary samples, along with six pieces of customised plain satin as the matching samples. Influenced by the Zhuangzhi technique, the Zhuanghua satin presented the following features. The thickness and air permeability of the Zhuanghua satin varied between patterned and non-patterned parts. The Zhuanghua satin in the weft direction showed higher tensile strength, stronger stiffness, and weak crease recovery ability. The average weft elongation at break of Zhuanghua satin increased by 25% and the weft flexural rigidity by 3–8 times, while the average weft crease recovery angle decreased by nearly 30°. The performance of anti-fuzzing and anti-pilling was improved, and the grades increased by 1 and 2, respectively. The study is conducive to a more scientific understanding and development of Yun brocade.","PeriodicalId":12309,"journal":{"name":"Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47955481","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Research on the Creative Application of Origami Performance Techniques in Clothing 折纸表演技术在服装中的创造性应用研究
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术
Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe Pub Date : 2022-07-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2022-0035
Chenlu Wang, Chen Yang, Junlan Li, Mingxuan Zhu
{"title":"Research on the Creative Application of Origami Performance Techniques in Clothing","authors":"Chenlu Wang, Chen Yang, Junlan Li, Mingxuan Zhu","doi":"10.2478/ftee-2022-0035","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0035","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Origami has various manifestations and rich production techniques, and it is regarded as one of the indispensable contemporary art forms. In order to enrich the creative expressions of fashion design, this paper summarises the creative application forms of origami art in fashion design from the external and moulding characteristics of origami, studies the fabric characteristics through experimental verification, and summarises the applicable techniques of expression. The results show that the folding application forms of origami art and clothing modelling can be realised by using the expression methods of ironing and crimping, stitching texture moulding and repeated combination moulding, that is, pattern deformation folding application, fabric transformation folding application and modular combination folding application. The application of the folding form in clothing three-dimensional modelling and surface texture can give full play to the unique modelling beauty and artistic style of origami art and provide a reference for creative ideas in clothing design.","PeriodicalId":12309,"journal":{"name":"Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43367699","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Prediction of Mechanical Properties of Woven Fabrics by ANN 机织物力学性能的人工神经网络预测
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术
Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe Pub Date : 2022-07-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2022-0036
Sherien N. Elkateb
{"title":"Prediction of Mechanical Properties of Woven Fabrics by ANN","authors":"Sherien N. Elkateb","doi":"10.2478/ftee-2022-0036","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0036","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This study aims to obtain an accurate prediction model of mechanical properties of woven fabric to achieve customer satisfaction. Samples of plain woven fabric were produced from different yarn counts and blend ratios of cotton and polyester of weft yarn at different weft densities. Mechanical properties such as tensile strength, bending stiffness and elongation% in both the warp and weft directions were tested. The prediction model was based on Artificial Neural Networks (ANNs). For each model, thirty-nine samples were used for training and fifteen for testing prediction performance. Findings indicated that the ANN achieved a perfect performance in predicting all properties.","PeriodicalId":12309,"journal":{"name":"Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41729121","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 3
Vertical Breast Displacement in Asian Women During Exercise: influence of Bra Type, Size and Different Parts of the Breast 亚洲女性运动时乳房垂直移位：胸罩类型、大小和乳房不同部位的影响
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术
Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe Pub Date : 2022-05-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2022-0016
Xinyang Sheng, Xiaona Chen, M. Lake
{"title":"Vertical Breast Displacement in Asian Women During Exercise: influence of Bra Type, Size and Different Parts of the Breast","authors":"Xinyang Sheng, Xiaona Chen, M. Lake","doi":"10.2478/ftee-2022-0016","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0016","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Asian women have smaller breast sizes and greater breast density, which suggests specific research on their breast kinematics and biomechanics. To investigate vertical breast displacement of Asian women among exercise modalities (rope skipping, walking, jogging, running) in different support conditions (wearing everyday bra or sports bra), and assess the motion between different parts of the breast, seven participants were selected to participate in this study. Five infrared markers were placed on each of their left breasts, and a three-dimensional motion capture system (NDI Optotrak Investigator) was used to collect the data on vertical breast displacement during walking (5 km/h), jogging (7.5 km/h), running (10 km/h) and rope skipping (2 Hz). No significant difference was found in the vertical displacement of different parts of the breast in the two bra conditions. Also, there was significant difference in vertical breast displacement among rope skipping, jogging and running. Breast size did not significantly affect its vertical displacement. The smaller, denser breast appears to reach a threshold of vertical displacement that is similar at high severities of dynamic exercises (jogging, running and rope skipping). The results might be useful for designing special sports bras for Asian women with small breasts or rope skipping participants to improve the shock absorption function.","PeriodicalId":12309,"journal":{"name":"Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45110018","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Design and Cultural Aspects of 20th Century Chinese Xiangjin Brocade 20世纪中国祥锦的设计与文化内涵
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术
Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe Pub Date : 2022-05-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2022-0030
Zhao Wenji, Cui Rongrong, Niu Li
{"title":"Design and Cultural Aspects of 20th Century Chinese Xiangjin Brocade","authors":"Zhao Wenji, Cui Rongrong, Niu Li","doi":"10.2478/ftee-2022-0030","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0030","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract As one of the representative silk-woven artworks of the 20th century in China, Chinese Xiangjin brocade, well-known as “the flower of Oriental art”, draws on the essence of Sichuan brocade, Yun brocade, Song brocade, so as to form its own unique artistic style. It also takes the lead in the innovation of traditional brocade in key processes such as craftsmanship, design and jacquard, whose drawing technique is the exact core skill making it intangible cultural heritage. So far, there have been few studies on crafts and textile design in China before the 20th century or even after the reform and opening up, and rather fewer studies on the structure of Xiangjin brocade in the 20th century. This paper attempts to record and classify 1008 pieces of Xiangjin brocade in the Suzhou Silk Archive, China, as well as to find out their design features, oriental flavour, and unique weaving techniques. In addition, the cultural connotation of Xiangjin brocade as the painting medium was also put forward by analysing those brocades' historical texts, images, and style.","PeriodicalId":12309,"journal":{"name":"Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42905626","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Coefficients for Assessing the Visibility of Materials Used in Anti-Smog Face Masks 用于评估防烟面罩材料能见度的系数
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术
Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe Pub Date : 2022-05-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2022-0022
A. Brochocka, G. Owczarek, Joanna Szkudlarek
{"title":"Coefficients for Assessing the Visibility of Materials Used in Anti-Smog Face Masks","authors":"A. Brochocka, G. Owczarek, Joanna Szkudlarek","doi":"10.2478/ftee-2022-0022","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0022","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The application of phosphorescence for the modification of face mask materials is motivated by the need to appreciably increase their visibility while using graphical elements with a relatively small area. Phosphorescent dyes absorb part of the visible spectrum while emitting radiation at wavelengths that are longer than the absorbed ones. Thus, a phosphorescent substance can emit light even if it is not being illuminated at a given time (but was before). This paper describes studies of the optical properties based on parameters such as the reflectance coefficient, chromaticity coordinates, as well as luminance measured from digital images for two models of smog-protective face half-masks differing in terms of their inner layer with filtration properties and outer printed layer. The external surface of one mask type is printed with a phosphorescent solid star pattern, while the other with a phosphorescent open star pattern. The influence of the inner filter layer was assessed in correlation with the colour of the outer layer and the type of printing. Moreover, the phenomenon of phosphorescence was identified. The study resulted in developing a material with properties providing better visibility under defined use conditions.","PeriodicalId":12309,"journal":{"name":"Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43172185","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Artificial Neural Network-based Prediction Technique for Waterproofness of Seams Obtained by Using Fusible Threads 基于人工神经网络的可熔螺纹接缝防水性预测技术
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术
Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe Pub Date : 2022-05-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2022-0019
Gülseren Karabay, Y. Senol, H. Ozturk, Cansu Mesegul
{"title":"Artificial Neural Network-based Prediction Technique for Waterproofness of Seams Obtained by Using Fusible Threads","authors":"Gülseren Karabay, Y. Senol, H. Ozturk, Cansu Mesegul","doi":"10.2478/ftee-2022-0019","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0019","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The aim of this study was to estimate waterproofness values of seams composed of the combination of fusible threads and antiwick sewing threads through artificial neural networks (ANN). Fusible threads were used to obtain waterproof seams for the first time. Therefore, estimating the value of the waterproofness variable with the help of models created from test values can contribute to accelerating the progress of further studies. Hence, ten different samples were prepared for two fabrics, and the waterproofness values of the seams obtained were tested using a Textest FX 3000 Hydrostatic Head Tester III. For the prediction of waterproofness values of the seams, the Levenberg-Marquardt backpropagation algorithm was used for artificial neural network pattern models with sigmoid and positive linear transfer functions. Finally, the ANN model was successful in estimating the waterproofness of the seams. The highest correlation coefficient was R = 0.95081 which indicated that the prediction made by the neural network model proved to be reliable.","PeriodicalId":12309,"journal":{"name":"Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48946325","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Antifungal Activity of Finished Chromium Tanned Leather Containing Thyme and Tea Tree Essential Oils 含百里香和茶树精油的铬鞣成品革的抑菌活性
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术
Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe Pub Date : 2022-05-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2022-0021
D. Gendaszewska, B. Wionczyk, Agata Bednarek, P. Boniecki
{"title":"Antifungal Activity of Finished Chromium Tanned Leather Containing Thyme and Tea Tree Essential Oils","authors":"D. Gendaszewska, B. Wionczyk, Agata Bednarek, P. Boniecki","doi":"10.2478/ftee-2022-0021","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0021","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Leather products provide an ideal environment for microbial growth. In order to prevent the appearance and spread of various types of microorganisms, it is treated with selected biocides and even essential oils. The aim of this paper was to investigate the antifungal activity of selected essential oils applied to finished chromium tanned leather which is intended for leather fancy products. Antifungal activity was evaluated according to the PN-EN 14119: 2005 standard. Four finished chromium tanned leathers were tested, each of which was soaked in the following essential oils: tea tree essential oil at a concentration of 1, 2 and 5% and thyme essential oil at concentration of 1, 2 and 5%. The results obtained indicated that leather finishing with thyme essential oil showed the antimicrobial activity against Aspergillus niger, Chaetomium globosum and Candida albicans strains. The application of 5% thyme essential oil to leather samples inhibited the growth of all strains tested. Using tea tree essential oil on leather samples showed a antimicrobial effect only against Candida albicans. The application of essential oils in the leather finishing process may be an alternative to biocides used in the tanning industry.","PeriodicalId":12309,"journal":{"name":"Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43212048","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Investigating the Functional and Comfort properties of a Face Mask Based on a Coolmax® Blended Cotton Fabric 基于Coolmax®混纺棉布的口罩的功能和舒适性能研究
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术
Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe Pub Date : 2022-05-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2022-0028
Shekh Md. Mamun Kabir, M. Hasan, Akm Mashud Alam
{"title":"Investigating the Functional and Comfort properties of a Face Mask Based on a Coolmax® Blended Cotton Fabric","authors":"Shekh Md. Mamun Kabir, M. Hasan, Akm Mashud Alam","doi":"10.2478/ftee-2022-0028","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0028","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract As the spread of Covid-19 has created a fatal threat to human survival, a comfortable and virus-deactivated functional face mask is extremely necessary. Herein, an appropriate thermally comfortable and highly breathable as well as virus-protecting functional knit fabric face mask was developed that consisted of multichannel PE Coolmax® yarn with cotton yarn. Due to the multichannel structure (four and six channels) of PE Coolmax® yarn with cotton yarn blended fabric, the fiber showed good filtration efficiency, air permeability, water vapour permeability and moisture management properties. In addition, the thermal conductivity and absorptive properties of the blended fabric based on the properties of PE Coolmax® yarn with cotton yarn make the face mask more comfortable for the user.","PeriodicalId":12309,"journal":{"name":"Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49587013","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Intelligent Recognition of Colour and Contour from Ancient Chinese Embroidery Images 中国古代刺绣图像颜色和轮廓的智能识别
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术
Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe Pub Date : 2022-05-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2022-0026
Fei Ju, Qiang Wang, Zhenke Tan, Quan Li
{"title":"Intelligent Recognition of Colour and Contour from Ancient Chinese Embroidery Images","authors":"Fei Ju, Qiang Wang, Zhenke Tan, Quan Li","doi":"10.2478/ftee-2022-0026","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0026","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Ancient Chinese embroidery is an important intangible part of the cultural heritage of mankind. Its colours and contours are a major source of oriental inspiration and design elements for designers today. This study presents an effective intelligent recognition of colour and contour based on K-means++ clustering and the Canny operator for colour and contour application of ancient Chinese embroidery images and for digital inheritance and innovation. First, digital cameras and portable scanners were used in embroidery image acquisition. Second, colour level adjustment, sharpening and smoothing were specially added to the preprocessing, because of the ancient embroidery age or colour errors caused by the shooting angle. Third, K-means++ clustering was used for colour clustering. Fourth, the Canny operator was used for contour detection. After the addition of colour level adjustment and sharpening in the preprocessing, the colours and contours could be acquired accurately and more effectively from embroidery images and be read and edited independently.","PeriodicalId":12309,"journal":{"name":"Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43016296","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
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