CosmeticsPub Date : 2024-03-25DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020047
A. S. Maddaleno, M. Vinardell, M. Mitjans
{"title":"Innovative Strategies for Photoallergy Assessment: Breaking Free from Animal Models in Cosmetic Ingredient Development","authors":"A. S. Maddaleno, M. Vinardell, M. Mitjans","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11020047","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020047","url":null,"abstract":"Photoallergy, a unique form of skin sensitization induced by specific compounds under ultraviolet irradiation, has traditionally been investigated using animals. However, the prohibition of animal testing for the assessment of cosmetic ingredients in Europe and other countries underscores the necessity for in vitro or in silico alternative methods. Currently, there are no validated methods for assessing photoallergy or photosensitization, presenting a significant challenge in the development of new cosmetic ingredients. This review examines the landscape of alternative methods for detecting photosensitization, emphasizing recent publications, and considering the underlying principles of the different proposed assays.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-03-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140381974","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
CosmeticsPub Date : 2024-03-21DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020046
Martina I. Peeva, Maya G. Georgieva, A. Balacheva, Atanas Pavlov, Nikolay T. Tzvetkov
{"title":"In Vitro Investigation of the Cytotoxic and Antiproliferative Effects of Haberlea rhodopensis Total Extract: A Comparative Study","authors":"Martina I. Peeva, Maya G. Georgieva, A. Balacheva, Atanas Pavlov, Nikolay T. Tzvetkov","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11020046","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020046","url":null,"abstract":"Haberlea rhodopensis Friv., known also as Rhodope silivryak and the Orpheus flower, is a Balkan endemic “resurrecting” plant belonging to the Gesneriaceae family. In folk medicine, the leaves of Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. were widely used to treat wounds and some infectious diseases of stock such as foot-and-mouth disease and hoof rot, while the herb of Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. is still used to cleanse the stomach, liver, kidneys, and blood vessels. Because of the content of myconoside, during the last decade, Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. extracts have been recognized as valuable cosmetic ingredients. In the present study, we aim to (i) evaluate the cytotoxic and antiproliferative activity of two herb extracts of Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. that are commercially used for the preparation of cosmetic ingredients on different cancer cells, with one normal cell line used as a reference, and (ii) compare the investigated effects with those observed for the reference anticancer, non-selective compound doxorubicin. Herein, we observed a decrease in the inhibitory activity of both extracts compared to those of doxorubicin against all tested cell lines. However, the myconoside-enriched Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. plant Extract 2 (designated also as M2) showed increased inhibitory activity (cytotoxicity and antiproliferative effects) compared to the Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. plant Extract 1 (designated also as E1). Moreover, the Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. plant Extract 2 showed a significant increase in cytotoxicity (at 24 h) and antiproliferative activity (at 48 and 72 h post-treatment) at its highest-tested concentration of 100 µg/mL compared to Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. plant Extract 1.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-03-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140222775","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
CosmeticsPub Date : 2024-03-18DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020045
Kunlathida Luangpraditkun, Preeyanuch Pimjuk, Preeyawass Phimnuan, Wisanee Wisanwattana, Chothip Wisespongpand, N. Waranuch, J. Viyoch
{"title":"Anti-Aging Properties of Cannabis sativa Leaf Extract against UVA Irradiation","authors":"Kunlathida Luangpraditkun, Preeyanuch Pimjuk, Preeyawass Phimnuan, Wisanee Wisanwattana, Chothip Wisespongpand, N. Waranuch, J. Viyoch","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11020045","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020045","url":null,"abstract":"Hemp extract has garnered interest as a potential cosmeceutical agent with multifunctional activities, particularly in protecting against UV-induced skin cell aberrations and restoring aged skin cells. The ethanolic extract of Cannabis sativa leaves was prepared into an aqueous solution (CLES) to investigate its anti-photoaging ability. HPLC analysis revealed that the CLES contained 1.64 ± 0.01% w/w of cannabidiol and 0.11% w/w of ∆9-tetrahydrocannabinol. Additionally, the total phenolic content was found to be 4.08 ± 0.30 mg gallic acid equivalent per g of solution using the Folin–Ciocalteu method. The CLES exhibited potent scavenging activity using a DPPH assay, with an EC50 value of 277.9 ± 2.41 μg/mL, comparable to L-ascorbic acid, with 2.19 ± 0.28 μg/mL. The anti-photoaging potential of the CLES was evaluated using UVA-irradiated and in vitro-aged fibroblasts as a model. Pre-treatment with 20 μg/mL CLES for 24 h significantly alleviated the reduction in type I procollagen and suppressed the overproduction of MMP-1 and IL-6 induced by UVA. Moreover, the percentage of senescence-associated β-galactosidase-expressing cells decreased significantly to 11.9 ± 0.5% in the aged cells treated with CLES compared with untreated cells (18.8 ± 3.8%). These results strongly indicate the cosmeceutical potential of the CLES as an effective active agent for the anti-photoaging prevention and/or treatment.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-03-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140234870","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
CosmeticsPub Date : 2024-03-14DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020044
Maxim E. Darvin, Andrew Salazar, J. Schleusener, J. Lademann, J. von Hagen
{"title":"Topical Peroxisome Proliferator-Activated Receptor Agonist Induces Molecular Alterations Enhancing Barrier Function and Water-Holding Capacity of the Human Stratum Corneum In Vivo","authors":"Maxim E. Darvin, Andrew Salazar, J. Schleusener, J. Lademann, J. von Hagen","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11020044","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020044","url":null,"abstract":"The peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR) ligands modulate a variety of skin functions but are rarely used in cosmetics. The aim of this double-blind, placebo-controlled, in vivo study was to determine the effect of a topically applied 0.1% PPAR ligand on the composition and physiological parameters of the stratum corneum (SC). By comparing verum and placebo groups post-treatment, we demonstrate (via lipidomic analysis of tape strips) an unstatistically significant trend toward an increase in long-chain triacylglycerols (C50–C56) and medium- and long-chain ceramides (C42–C50) at the superficial SC. By comparing treated and untreated skin using confocal Raman microspectroscopy, we found that the changes in lipid composition in the verum group led to a significant increase in the number of trans conformers and orthorhombic organisation of lipids at the exemplary SC depth. An increase in unfolded states in the secondary and tertiary keratin structures results in an increased ability to bind water. The concentrations of tightly and strongly bound water increase, while weakly bound and unbound water decrease in the entire SC, indicating a transformation of water mobility to a state of increased hydrogen bonding. Thus, the topical PPAR ligands improve the water-holding capacity and the barrier function of the SC.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-03-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140242534","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
CosmeticsPub Date : 2024-03-13DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020043
H. Aoshima, Ruka Mizuno, Yuho Iwatsu, Shiori Onishi, Sayuri Hyodo, Rinta Ibuki, Hirokazu Kawagishi, Y. Saitoh
{"title":"Inhibitory Effect of 2-Aza-8-oxohypoxanthine on Tyrosinase Activity and Melanin Production","authors":"H. Aoshima, Ruka Mizuno, Yuho Iwatsu, Shiori Onishi, Sayuri Hyodo, Rinta Ibuki, Hirokazu Kawagishi, Y. Saitoh","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11020043","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020043","url":null,"abstract":"A fairy chemical, 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine, has exhibited broad effects on skin barrier function, leading to its launch as a cosmetic ingredient. A clinical trial on a lotion containing 0.1% 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine demonstrated the ability of this chemical to increase skin lightness based on the analysis of L* values. In the present study, to elucidate the mechanism underlying the increase in skin lightness, we aimed to investigate the effect of 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine on murine melanoma cell lines, focusing on its influence on tyrosinase activity and melanin production. Our findings revealed that the addition of 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine inhibited tyrosinase activity by 13% compared with the untreated control. Similarly, melanin production was suppressed by 36% compared with the control. These results strongly suggest that the inhibition of tyrosinase effectively suppressed melanin production. Thus, 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine acts by inhibiting tyrosinase and melanin production to promote skin lightening. This study provides novel insights into the skin-lightening mechanism of 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine, demonstrating its ability to inhibit melanin production through the suppression of pro-inflammatory factors, thereby highlighting its potential as an effective cosmetic ingredient for lightening skin tone.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-03-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140245660","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
CosmeticsPub Date : 2024-03-12DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020042
Gi-Woong Hong, Hyewon Hu, Soohyun Park, Jovian Wan, Kyu-Ho Yi
{"title":"What Are the Factors That Enable Thread Lifting to Last Longer?","authors":"Gi-Woong Hong, Hyewon Hu, Soohyun Park, Jovian Wan, Kyu-Ho Yi","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11020042","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020042","url":null,"abstract":"Thread-lifting traditionally addressed aging-related skin laxity by leveraging precise thread placement and traction. However, recent advancements, notably cog threads, expanded its application to younger patients seeking facial contour refinement. These newer threads effectively lift sagging areas and refine facial contours, broadening the procedure’s appeal. Challenges arise in selecting threads due to variable physician preferences and patient needs. Clear indications for thread efficacy are vital for credibility and tailored selection. Thread choice depends on tissue laxity, necessitating lighter threads for minimal laxity and stronger ones for significant sagging. However, no single thread universally suits all cases. Combining different threads is favored for optimal outcomes and minimizing side effects. Excessive traction post-procedure may lead to prolonged discomfort and skin irregularities. Post-procedural tension adjustments through massage remain debated, potentially conflicting with minimally invasive principles. Understanding thread characteristics guides tailored selection, considering patient conditions and procedural goals. This comprehensive understanding extends beyond specific products, aiming for optimal outcomes in thread-lifting procedures. Key factors influencing outcomes encompass thread materials, thickness, cog shapes, insertion depth, lifting vectors, and absorbable thread expiration dates.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-03-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140248463","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
CosmeticsPub Date : 2024-03-08DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020041
N. d’Avanzo, Antonia Mancuso, R. Mare, Antonio Silletta, S. Maurotti, O. I. Parisi, M. Cristiano, D. Paolino
{"title":"Olive Leaves and Citrus Peels: From Waste to Potential Resource for Cosmetic Products","authors":"N. d’Avanzo, Antonia Mancuso, R. Mare, Antonio Silletta, S. Maurotti, O. I. Parisi, M. Cristiano, D. Paolino","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11020041","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020041","url":null,"abstract":"Resource depletion and food waste accumulation represent a tremendous socio-economic and environmental problem. One promising strategy involves the use of byproducts derived from food waste as ingredients for cosmetic products. The aim of this work is to propose clementine peels and olive leaf extracts as value-added bioproducts for a cosmetic cream. Extracts were obtained by super critical extraction showing an antioxidant activity of ca. 25%. No cytotoxic effects of the extracts were recorded on keratinocyte cells up to a concentration of 4% v/v ratio within 24 h. The incorporation of clementine peels and olive leaf extracts into creams did not compromise their stability, as demonstrated by Turbiscan analyses at room and extreme (40 °C) storage conditions. The safety profiles of the final cosmetic formulations were further in vivo demonstrated on human volunteers. We analyzed the trans-epidermal water loss and variation of the skin’s erythematous index, which showed profiles that almost overlapped with the negative control. Moreover, rheological analysis of the resulting creams evidences their suitable spreadability with similar pseudoplastic profiles, although a slight reduction of viscosity was recorded by improving the extracts’ concentrations. The proposed approach highlights the advantage of combining byproduct resources and supercritical fluid extraction to obtain a safe and eco-friendly face cream.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-03-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140257558","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
CosmeticsPub Date : 2024-03-07DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020039
F. Havas, S. Krispin, M. Cohen, J. Attia-Vigneau
{"title":"A Hylocereus undatus Extract Enhances Skin Microbiota Balance and Delivers In-Vivo Improvements in Skin Health and Beauty","authors":"F. Havas, S. Krispin, M. Cohen, J. Attia-Vigneau","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11020039","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020039","url":null,"abstract":"Skin microbiota, and its diversity and balance, play a key role in skin health and beauty, influencing skin moisture, barrier function, and radiance. A healthy skin microbiota limits the growth of detrimental species, protecting the skin from pathologies. Prebiotics can support beneficial populations in outcompeting detrimental ones. Dragon fruit (Hylocereus undatus) contains prebiotic polysaccharides effective on gut bacteria. Its extract was tested in vitro, in a coculture model including representative beneficial and detrimental species, and in double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trials. Effects on the skin microbiota were measured via 16S rDNA sequencing, and skin health and beauty benefits were evaluated through image analysis, TEWL measurement, and chromametry. Doppler flowmetry measured skin resilience. The extract supported S. epidermidis and S. hominis (beneficial species), while limiting S. aureus and C. acnes (representing pathogens) in vitro. Clinical results demonstrated its beneficial effects on skin microbiota diversity, especially in older volunteers (Faith’s index up to +20% vs. placebo). Improvements were shown in skin sensitivity and resilience (by ca. 30% vs. placebo), skin redness (reflecting inflammation status), pigmentation and radiance (+11% ITA), barrier function (−13% TEWL), and wrinkling. This demonstrates this extract’s positive effects on the beauty, health, and microbiota balance of the skin.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-03-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140258715","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
CosmeticsPub Date : 2024-03-05DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020038
K. Kumar, M. Vani, Muthusamy Chinnasamy, Wan‐Teng Lin, Sheng-Yang Wang
{"title":"Patchouli Alcohol: A Potent Tyrosinase Inhibitor Derived from Patchouli Essential Oil with Potential in the Development of a Skin-Lightening Agent","authors":"K. Kumar, M. Vani, Muthusamy Chinnasamy, Wan‐Teng Lin, Sheng-Yang Wang","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11020038","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020038","url":null,"abstract":"The inhibitory effects of Pogostemon cablin essential oil (patchouli essential oil, PEO) and its primary bioactive compound, patchouli alcohol (PA), on tyrosinase and melanin were investigated in vitro and ex vivo. Treatment with PEO and PA significantly, as well as dose-dependently, reduced forskolin (FRK)-induced melanin biosynthesis, cellular tyrosinase activity, and tyrosinase (TYR) protein expression. However, the transcriptional levels of TYR and tyrosinase-related proteins (TRP-1 and TRP-2) remained unaffected. These results suggest that PEO and PA may directly interrupt tyrosinase enzyme activity, leading to a reduction in melanin biosynthesis. Further experiments supported this notion, revealing that both PEO and PA significantly and dose-dependently inhibited mushroom tyrosinase activity in both the monophenolase and diphenolase phases. Additionally, an in silico molecular docking analysis was performed, utilizing a homology model of human tyrosinase. In conclusion, these findings strongly suggest that patchouli essential oil and its primary bioactive component, patchouli alcohol, hold promise as potential treatments for hyperpigmentary skin conditions and in the development of cosmetic products designed to lighten the skin.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-03-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140264884","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"In and out Beauty and Sensitive Skin, a Psychophysiological Exploration: Myth or Reality?","authors":"Leila Falcao, Rachida Nachat‐Kappes, Edith Filaire","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11020036","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020036","url":null,"abstract":"Knowing that biomolecules, such as β-amyrin and α-amyrin, have some pharmacological effects, the aim of this study was directed towards exploring the protective effect of Tomato Peel and Seed Extract (TPSE) for its soothing function but also for its capacity to modulate the adrenal axis, which is involved in stress response. Ex vivo tests were carried out on skin explants to evaluate the effectiveness of TPSE formulated at 0.5% on Calcitonin Gene-Related Peptide (CGRP) and IL-10 release, Kappa Opioid Receptor (KOR), and Caspase 14 expression. An in vivo study combined a clinical evaluation of skin homogeneity and psychological parameters as well as an analysis of salivary cortisol and dehydroepiandrosterone concentrations. All measurements were carried out at the beginning and after 28 days of applying a TPSE face cream. TPSE regulated not only the release of CGRP, IL-10, and the expression of Caspase 14, reflecting anti-neurogenic and anti-inflammatory properties, but also modulated KORs. Twenty-eight days of TPSE application induced a significant decrease in intensity and extent erythrosis, a lower output of salivary cortisol, and a significant increase in pleasant emotions when compared to placebo. These results provide encouragement to continue exploring the impact of cosmetic ingredients on psychophysiological parameters to improve skin health and well-being.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140089482","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}