Cosmetics最新文献

{"title":"Evaluation of Teneligliptin and Retagliptin on the Clearance of Melanosome by Melanophagy in B16F1 Cells","authors":"Seong Hyun Kim, J. Bae, N. Park, Joon Bum Kim, Yong Hwan Kim, So Hyun Kim, Gyeong-Seok Oh, Hee Won Wang, Jeong Ho Chang, Dong-Hyung Cho","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11020035","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020035","url":null,"abstract":"A specialized membrane-bound organelle, named the melanosome, is central to the storage and transport of melanin as well as melanin synthesis in melanocytes. Although previous studies have linked melanosomal degradation to autophagy, the precise mechanisms remain elusive. Autophagy, a complex catabolic process involving autophagosomes and lysosomes, plays a vital role in cellular constituent degradation. In this study, the role of autophagy in melanosomal degradation was explored, employing a cell-based screening system designed to unveil key pathway regulators. We identified specific dipeptidyl peptidase-4 inhibitors, such as teneligliptin hydrobromide and retagliptin phosphate, as novel agents inducing melanophagy through a comprehensive screening of a ubiquitination-related chemical library. We found that treatment with teneligliptin hydrobromide or retagliptin phosphate not only diminishes melanin content elevated by alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) but also triggers autophagy activation within B16F1 cells. In addition, the targeted inhibition of unc-51-like kinase (ULK1) significantly attenuated both the anti-pigmentation effects and autophagy induced by teneligliptin hydrobromide and retagliptin phosphate in α-MSH-treated cells. Collectively, our data demonstrate a new frontier in understanding melanosomal degradation, identifying teneligliptin hydrobromide and retagliptin phosphate as promising inducers of melanophagy via autophagy activation. This study contributes essential insights into cellular degradation mechanisms and offers potential therapeutic avenues in the regulation of pigmentation.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140089813","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Promising Functions of Novel Vitamin D Derivatives as Cosmetics: A New Fountain of Youth in Skin Aging and Skin Protection","authors":"Z. Janjetović, Andrzej T. Slominski","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11020037","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020037","url":null,"abstract":"Vitamin D is a natural photoproduct that has many beneficial effects on different organs, including skin. Active forms of vitamin D and its derivatives exert biological effects on skin cells, thus maintaining skin homeostasis. In keratinocytes, they inhibit proliferation and stimulate differentiation, have anti-inflammatory properties, act as antioxidants, inhibit DNA damage and stimulate DNA repair after ultraviolet (UV) exposure. In melanocytes, they also inhibit cell proliferation, inhibit apoptosis and act as antioxidants. In fibroblasts, they inhibit cell proliferation, affect fibrotic processes and collagen production, and promote wound healing and regeneration. On the other hand, skin cells have the ability to activate vitamin D directly. These activities, along with the projected topical application of vitamin D derivatives, are promising for skin care and photo protection and can be used in the prevention or possible reversal of skin aging.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140089733","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Reducing the Environmental Impacts of Plastic Cosmetic Packaging: A Multi-Attribute Life Cycle Assessment","authors":"Nicole Vassallo, P. Refalo","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11020034","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020034","url":null,"abstract":"The global packaging industry has been growing significantly, resulting in an increase in waste and emissions. Social responsibilities, regulations and targets are shifting companies’ priorities to various sustainable practices. This study comprised a life cycle assessment (LCA) to quantify and compare key initiatives influencing the sustainability of plastic cosmetic packaging. The life cycle environmental effects of dematerialisation, recycled content, energy-saving initiatives and renewable energy powering the manufacturing processes, and the end-of-life (EoL) recycling rates of various scenarios, were evaluated. Moreover, a variety of fossil-based and bio-based polymers, such as acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS), polypropylene (PP), polyethylene terephthalate (PET), wood–polymer composite (WPC) and polylactic acid (PLA), were considered. The study determined that dematerialisation and recycled content had the most beneficial impacts on packaging sustainability. When 100% recycled materials were used, an overall impact reduction of 42–60% was noted for all the materials considered. Using 100% renewable energy and applying measures to reduce the energy consumption in the manufacturing stage by 50% reduced the total impact by approximately 9–17% and 7–13%, respectively. Furthermore, it was concluded that PP had the lowest environmental impacts in the majority of the case scenarios considered, by an average of 46%.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-02-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140419094","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Interaction of Perfumes with Cytochrome P-450 19","authors":"Iva Drejslarová, Tomáš Ječmen, P. Hodek","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11020033","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020033","url":null,"abstract":"Cytochrome P450 (CYP) enzymes play a key role in the metabolism of foreign compounds and in the biosynthesis and catabolism of endogenous substances, including hormones. The activity of these enzymes can be affected by various xenobiotics, such as pollutants, food constituents, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetic products, which can disrupt the endocrine system by interfering with steroidogenic CYPs. CYP19, also known as aromatase, is a crucial enzyme for testosterone conversion into 17β-estradiol, which is the final step in estrogen biosynthesis. Endocrine disruptors have the potential to inhibit CYP19 activity, leading to an imbalance in estrogen levels in the body. This imbalance can impair reproduction and cause osteoporosis, atherosclerosis, dementia, and some types of cancer. The aim of this study was to assess the effect of commercially available perfumes on testosterone aromatization to 17β-estradiol. For this purpose, we used high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with UV detection and HPLC coupled with mass spectrometry (MS) to examine CYP19 activity with and without perfume. The results showed that all perfumes tested (in a 300-fold dilution) had an inhibitory effect on this enzyme-catalyzed reaction, particularly the Montale® fragrance, ‘Intense Roses Musk’, which decreased 17β-estradiol production by 88% in comparison with the control. Upon exposure to UV light, the inhibitory effect of this perfume did not decrease. But exposure to UV light significantly increased the inhibitory capacity of another perfume with a weak baseline inhibitory effect. To ascertain whether this inhibition was caused by CYP19 interactions with perfumes, we measured the catalytic activity of NADPH:cytochrome P450 oxidoreductase (CYPOR), the CYP reaction partner, with one selected perfume, ‘Intense Roses Musk’ by Montale®, and found no significant CYPOR inhibition. Accordingly, the decrease in testosterone conversion into 17β-estradiol caused by this perfume derives solely from CYP19. Combined, our findings highlight the importance of testing perfumes rather than single ingredients to determine their potential for adverse effects and to ensure consumer safety because their mixtures can interfere with a key enzyme of estrogen biosynthesis.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-02-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140436129","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A Platform for Determining Medicinal Plants with Targeted 17β-Hydroxysteroid Dehydrogenase Modulation for Possible Hair Loss Prevention","authors":"Suhyeon Park, Neha Kaushik, Geunjeong Lee, Y. Sohn, Hyehyun Hong, Krishna K. Shrestha, Ren-Bo An, Young Kum Park, Ihseop Chang, June-Hyun Kim","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11020032","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020032","url":null,"abstract":"Although hair loss plays a vital physiological function in present society, their impact on shaping self-esteem is undeniable. Even though there are numerous synthetic drugs available, these days, there are issues with safety, efficiency, and unclear time settings for required outcomes with the current synthetic drug remedies available; therefore, there is growing attention to discovering alternative methods to fight hair loss, primarily through plant-derived formulations. While earlier reports mostly focused on screening compounds or plant extracts affecting 5α-reductase, our research takes a unique direction. We employed a biochemical and molecular biological approach by delving into the complicated biosynthetic pathways involving 17β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase (17β-HSD) and 3β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase (3β-HSD) in producing testosterone derived from cholesterol. This process conceded requiring experimental results, posing insights into the control of the testosterone/dihydrotestosterone (DHT) production pathway. Our study confirms a discovery platform for finding potential candidates as hair loss inhibitors, highlighting exploring various biochemical mechanisms involving 17β-HSD and 3β-HSD in combination with medicinal plant extracts.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-02-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140443558","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Correction: Ferruggia et al. Effectiveness of a Novel Compound HAIR & SCALP COMPLEX on Hair Follicle Regeneration. Cosmetics 2024, 11, 10","authors":"Greta Ferruggia, Martina Contino, Massimo Zimbone, M. Brundo","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11020031","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020031","url":null,"abstract":"In the original publication [...]","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-02-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140443509","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Silymarin Alleviates Oxidative Stress and Inflammation Induced by UV and Air Pollution in Human Epidermis and Activates β-Endorphin Release through Cannabinoid Receptor Type 2","authors":"C. Boira, E. Chapuis, A. Scandolera, R. Reynaud","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11010030","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010030","url":null,"abstract":"Background: Skin is exposed to ultraviolet radiation (UV) and air pollution, and recent works have demonstrated that these factors have additive effects in the disturbance of skin homeostasis. Nuclear-factor-erythroid-2-related factor 2 (Nrf2) and aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR) appear to be appropriate targets in the management of combined environmental stressors. The protective effects of silymarin (SM), an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory complex of flavonoids, were evaluated. Methods: Reactive oxygen species (ROS) and interleukin 1-alpha (IL-1a) were quantified in UV+urban-dust-stressed reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) treated with SM. A gene expression study was conducted on targets related to AHR and Nrf2. SM agonistic activity on cannabinoid receptor type 2 (CB2R) was evaluated on mast cells. The clinical study quantified the performance of SM and cannabidiol (CBD) in skin exposed to solar radiation and air pollution. Results: SM decreased morphological alterations, ROS, and IL-1a in UV+urban-dust-stressed RHE. AHR- and Nrf2-related genes were upregulated, which control the antioxidant effector and barrier function. Interleukin 8 gene expression was decreased. The clinical study confirmed SM improved the homogeneity and perceived well-being of urban skins exposed to UV, outperforming CBD. SM activated CB2R and the release of β-endorphin from mast cells. Conclusions: SM provides protection of skin from oxidative stress and inflammation caused by two major factors of exposome and appears mediated by AHR-Nrf2. SM activation of CB2R is opening a new understanding of SM’s anti-inflammatory properties.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-02-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139840359","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Silymarin Alleviates Oxidative Stress and Inflammation Induced by UV and Air Pollution in Human Epidermis and Activates β-Endorphin Release through Cannabinoid Receptor Type 2","authors":"C. Boira, E. Chapuis, A. Scandolera, R. Reynaud","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11010030","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010030","url":null,"abstract":"Background: Skin is exposed to ultraviolet radiation (UV) and air pollution, and recent works have demonstrated that these factors have additive effects in the disturbance of skin homeostasis. Nuclear-factor-erythroid-2-related factor 2 (Nrf2) and aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR) appear to be appropriate targets in the management of combined environmental stressors. The protective effects of silymarin (SM), an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory complex of flavonoids, were evaluated. Methods: Reactive oxygen species (ROS) and interleukin 1-alpha (IL-1a) were quantified in UV+urban-dust-stressed reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) treated with SM. A gene expression study was conducted on targets related to AHR and Nrf2. SM agonistic activity on cannabinoid receptor type 2 (CB2R) was evaluated on mast cells. The clinical study quantified the performance of SM and cannabidiol (CBD) in skin exposed to solar radiation and air pollution. Results: SM decreased morphological alterations, ROS, and IL-1a in UV+urban-dust-stressed RHE. AHR- and Nrf2-related genes were upregulated, which control the antioxidant effector and barrier function. Interleukin 8 gene expression was decreased. The clinical study confirmed SM improved the homogeneity and perceived well-being of urban skins exposed to UV, outperforming CBD. SM activated CB2R and the release of β-endorphin from mast cells. Conclusions: SM provides protection of skin from oxidative stress and inflammation caused by two major factors of exposome and appears mediated by AHR-Nrf2. SM activation of CB2R is opening a new understanding of SM’s anti-inflammatory properties.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-02-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139780399","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Nanoemulsions Containing Mucuna pruriens (L.) DC. Seed Extract for Cosmetic Applications","authors":"Suwaporn Chookiat, Tinnakorn Theansungnoen, Kanokwan Kiattisin, Aekkhaluck Intharuksa","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11010029","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010029","url":null,"abstract":"Mucuna pruriens is a medicinal plant whose seeds have various types of pharmacological activities and are used in many traditional medicines. The aim of this study was to evaluate the phytochemicals as well as the anti-aging, antioxidant, and moisturizing properties of seed extracts of M. pruriens var. pruriens and M. pruriens var. utilis. In addition, the best extract was selected for the development of nanoemulsions. M. pruriens var. utilis had the highest total phenolic and total flavonoid contents. It had good antioxidant activity (the IC50 of DPPH was 4.87 µg/mL, the FRAP value was 1.63 mg of FeSO4/mg of extract, and the percentage of lipid peroxidation was 80.19%) and anti-aging activity (the percentages of inhibition of hyaluronidase, collagenase, and elastase were 26.41%, 51.16%, and 22.78%, respectively). The occlusive factor was 46.12 ± 1.72. Therefore, M. pruriens var. utilis seed extract was selected for the preparation of nanoemulsions. The results showed that the size, PDI, and zeta potential of nanoemulsions containing M. pruriens var. utilis seed extract at day 30 did not significantly differ from those at day 0. In addition, the %EE was 63.46%. A study of skin permeation showed that the retention in the membrane after six hours of skin permeation study was 44.19%. Therefore, nanoemulsions containing M. pruriens var. utilis seed extract have good potential for further use in cosmetic applications.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-02-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139844808","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Nanoemulsions Containing Mucuna pruriens (L.) DC. Seed Extract for Cosmetic Applications","authors":"Suwaporn Chookiat, Tinnakorn Theansungnoen, Kanokwan Kiattisin, Aekkhaluck Intharuksa","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11010029","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010029","url":null,"abstract":"Mucuna pruriens is a medicinal plant whose seeds have various types of pharmacological activities and are used in many traditional medicines. The aim of this study was to evaluate the phytochemicals as well as the anti-aging, antioxidant, and moisturizing properties of seed extracts of M. pruriens var. pruriens and M. pruriens var. utilis. In addition, the best extract was selected for the development of nanoemulsions. M. pruriens var. utilis had the highest total phenolic and total flavonoid contents. It had good antioxidant activity (the IC50 of DPPH was 4.87 µg/mL, the FRAP value was 1.63 mg of FeSO4/mg of extract, and the percentage of lipid peroxidation was 80.19%) and anti-aging activity (the percentages of inhibition of hyaluronidase, collagenase, and elastase were 26.41%, 51.16%, and 22.78%, respectively). The occlusive factor was 46.12 ± 1.72. Therefore, M. pruriens var. utilis seed extract was selected for the preparation of nanoemulsions. The results showed that the size, PDI, and zeta potential of nanoemulsions containing M. pruriens var. utilis seed extract at day 30 did not significantly differ from those at day 0. In addition, the %EE was 63.46%. A study of skin permeation showed that the retention in the membrane after six hours of skin permeation study was 44.19%. Therefore, nanoemulsions containing M. pruriens var. utilis seed extract have good potential for further use in cosmetic applications.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-02-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139784928","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}