Cosmetics最新文献

{"title":"Improvement of Human Epidermal Barrier Structure and Lipid Profile in Xerotic- and Atopic-Prone Skin via Application of a Plant-Oil and Urea Containing pH 4.5 Emulsion","authors":"J. Blaak, D. Dähnhardt, S. Bielfeldt, C. Theiß, I. Simon, K. Wilhelm, S. Dähnhardt-Pfeiffer, Peter Staib","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10040095","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040095","url":null,"abstract":"Epidermal barrier dysfunction can lead to xerotic skin and promote skin disorders like atopic dermatitis. Atopic skin is characterized by reduced water-retaining compounds, altered lipid composition and elevated skin pH. Against this background, a study was conducted to investigate the impact of a specific skin care product on epidermal barrier function in dry and atopic-prone skin. A marketed pH 4.5 cosmetic formulation containing 10% urea and specific plant oils was evaluated on 25 subjects with dry and atopic-prone skin. Measurements of skin hydration, pH, and barrier function were performed before and after 3 weeks of product usage. Additionally, visual scoring and stratum corneum lipid analysis using electron microscopy were conducted to investigate lipid composition. An improved skin hydration compared to the untreated area and a tendency to decrease the baseline elevated skin surface pH were observed. The visual scoring showed reduced dryness, roughness, and tension through the application. Furthermore, the stratum corneum lipid matrix was improved in terms of lipid content and organization. The combination of an acidic product’s pH, a relevant urea content and effective plant oils is shown to be beneficial in terms of improving the skin barrier function, structure and appearance and is recommended for dry and atopic-prone skin.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-06-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42605354","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Hydrobiome of Thermal Waters: Potential Use in Dermocosmetics","authors":"M. Mourelle, Carmen P. Gómez, J. L. Legido","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10040094","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040094","url":null,"abstract":"Over the course of the last 20 years, numerous studies have identified the benefits of thermal waters on different skin conditions. Consequently, several investigations have been carried out on their effects on the skin, which are linked to their chemical composition, and, recently, scientists have turned their attention to the role of the thermal spring’s microbiota, named “hydrobiome”, regarding these therapeutic effects. At the same time, the development of cosmetics based on pre, pro, and postbiotics has reached great relevance and research is increasing every day. This review gathers information on the biological diversity of thermal spring waters and their potential use in obtaining biological compounds, metabolites, or bacterial extracts for use in dermocosmetics as active ingredients. These bioactive compounds are able to improve dermatological diseases such as atopic dermatitis or rosacea and ameliorate pruritus and xerosis; moreover, they can increase protection against UV exposure, strengthen barrier function, maintain good homeostasis of skin defenses, repair damaged skin, promote wound healing, improve skin condition, reduce uneven skin pigmentation, and prevent skin aging. From a future perspective, fruitful cooperation among researchers, hydrologists, thermal spa centers, and cosmetic industries will drive this sector toward a better understanding of the role of the hydrobiome of thermal spring waters on healthy skin and dermatological diseases and consider the inclusion of derivatives of this hydrobiome (in the form of fermenters, lysates, extracts, etc.) in dermocosmetic formulations. Therefore, and being aware of the potential of the hydrobiome in dermatological and skin care applications, the future prospects for the use of bioactive substances derived from it in dermocosmetic formulations are promising.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-06-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43609648","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The Tolerability and Effectiveness of Marine-Based Ingredients in Cosmetics: A Split-Face Clinical Study of a Serum Spray Containing Fucus vesiculosus Extract, Ulva lactuca Extract, and Ectoin","authors":"Ciska Janssens-Böcker, Karin Wiesweg, C. Doberenz","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10030093","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030093","url":null,"abstract":"Introduction: Marine-derived compounds, such as seaweed extracts, fucoidan and ulvans, and ectoin, have gained attention in recent years due to their unique structural and functional characteristics, which make them attractive ingredients for skincare products. In this study, we developed a serum spray based on fucoidan, Ulva lactuca extract, and ectoin and evaluated its efficacy on facial skin. Materials and Methods: A split-face design dermatological evaluation of the serum spray was conducted on 33 subjects with visible signs of skin aging, with 29 subjects completing the study according to its protocol. The subjects had a mean age of 50 years and 16 had sensitive skin. The instrumental efficacy and subjective efficacy of the spray were measured on facial skin by evaluating the trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), skin pH, skin roughness/wrinkle reduction, and skin hydration at baseline, 20 min after its application and 28 days after its continuous use. Results: We found that the application of the serum spray did not significantly affect the TEWL. The hydration in the area treated with Moisturizer + Spray was 17% higher than that in the area treated with Moisturizer alone after 20 min of application (p < 0.001) and 5% higher after 28 days of use (p < 0.05). Twenty minutes after the application of the product, the average roughness in the area treated with Moisturizer + Spray decreased significantly, with an average of 7% compared to baseline (p < 0.001). With regard to the long-term antiwrinkle effect, 28 days after the continuous use of the product, the average roughness in the area treated with Moisturizer + Spray decreased significantly, with an average of 17% in relation to baseline (p < 0.001). The skin pH was significantly lowered by 6% after 28 days of use of the moisturizer + spray (p < 0.05). Conclusion: The results of this study suggest that the marine-derived compounds fucoidan, ulvans, and ectoin have hydrating and anti-wrinkle properties that make them effective ingredients for skincare products. The serum spray developed in this study was demonstrated to be safe and increase hydration, showing a reduction in wrinkles and maintenance of the skin barrier function after 28 days of its continuous use. Therefore, it could be a promising addition to skincare products for improving skin health.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-06-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44222783","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Phenolic Composition and Wound Healing Potential Assessment of Moroccan Henna (Lawsonia inermis) Aqueous Extracts","authors":"Soukaina El Massoudi, A. Zinedine, J. Rocha, M. Benidir, Ilham Najjari, Lahsen El ghadraoui, M. Benjelloun, F. Errachidi","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10030092","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030092","url":null,"abstract":"The present study aims at valorizing Moroccan Henna (Lawsonia inermis) by developing healing formulations for cosmetic and therapeutic uses. For such a goal, the plant was collected from three locations in southeastern Morocco (Alnif, Tafraoute Sidi Ali and Tazarine). Phytochemical analysis of Henna leaves was performed by determining phenolic compound contents, and flavonoids and tannins in it, through its aqueous extracts. Then, specific formulations were prepared using aqueous extracts of L. inermis to assess their in vivo wound healing potential in Swiss albino mice used as animal models. Results disclosed that phenolic compounds (13.48%), as well as flavonoid (9.25%) and tannin (2.57%) contents are higher in Henna leaf extracts from Alnif, while Tazarine Henna aqueous extract was found to be richer in saponins (0.32%). Exclusion chromatographic analysis on Sephadex G50 gel corroborates the obtained results and shows that Lawsone levels (Henna coloring agent) are higher in Henna collected from Alnif. Aqueous Henna leaf extracts, at a dose of 10% in petroleum jelly, have been assessed for their ability to heal induced burns in mice. Healing monitoring, carried-out with Henna extracts on mice batches and those of two control batches (mice batch treated with petroleum jelly alone and batch treated with petroleum jelly containing 1% (flamazine), showed a great reduction in burnt surface with an accentuated contraction percentage (CP) and complete re-epithelialization duration (CRD) at 21 days in the 3 studied Henna-based formulations. These findings suggest the interest of potential development of Henna-based formulations, as a source of phenolic compounds, for further dermatological, cosmetic and therapeutic applications.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-06-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41573212","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Optimization of a Gas Chromatography–Mass Spectrometry (GCMS) Method for Detecting 28 Allergens in Various Personal Care Products","authors":"Adnan S. AL-Mussallam, Abdullah T. Bawazir, Rawan S. Alshathri, Omniyah Alharthi, F. Aldawsari","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10030091","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030091","url":null,"abstract":"Fragrances are among the most common ingredients in cosmetics products. Importantly, exposure to fragrances on a daily basis might pose a health risk, leading to serious effects, such as contact dermatitis or contact eczema. Annex III of the European Union Directive on Cosmetic Products and Gulf Cooperation Council standardization organization (GSO) introduced restrictions for 26 allergens, with their concentrations exceeding 0.001% and 0.01% in leave-on products and rinse-off products, respectively. In the current study, we aimed to expand the scope of the analytical method (EN16274, 2012) to include a broader range of matrices. The optimized method was validated by examining a statistical approach, including selectivity, linearity, accuracy, precision, and measurement of uncertainty. Successfully, the validated data demonstrated acceptable limits according to validation protocols, with linearity showing satisfactory regression of r > 0.995. During method performance assessment, samples were extracted using ultrasound-assisted extraction to extract allergens that yielded relatively high recoveries. Studies on matrices spiked with allergens at different levels showed insignificant bias as an average of 0.07 µg/g. Method performance was assessed by analyzing 140 cosmetics samples, including perfumes, deodorants, aftershave, baby wet wipes, shampoos, lotions, and lip care products. The new optimized analytical method is believed to be a valuable analytical tool to be used in surveillance studies covering a wide range of cosmetic matrices.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-06-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46820354","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Development and Functionality of Sinami (Oenocarpus mapora) Seed Powder as a Biobased Ingredient for the Production of Cosmetic Products","authors":"Frank L. Romero-Orejon, Jorge Huamán, P. Lozada, F. Ramos-Escudero, A. M. Muñoz","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10030090","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030090","url":null,"abstract":"Sinami (Oenocarpus mapora H. Karst), a native fruit found in the Amazon region of South America, has high nutritional value and is rich in lipids. However, the processing of sinami generates a large volume of agro-industrial waste, mainly composed of seeds. Our research comprises a proximal analysis of the sinami seed and its phenolic compounds and their antioxidant activity. The chemical analysis revealed high moisture but low protein, fiber, and lipid content. Furthermore, the extracts showed high in vitro antioxidant activity against 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical IC50 (0.34 ± 0.001 mg/mL) and ABTS IC50 (0.10 ± 0.0002 mg/mL) free radicals. Based on this previous assessment, a gel exfoliant was developed. Since sinami seed powder is a novel ingredient, different formulations were evaluated to determine future incorporation into the cosmetic market. The best exfoliant gel prototype was studied under normal and stressed conditions (40 °C) for 3 months, maintaining a pH value of 5.25 and final viscosities of 700–800 mPa.s and 600–500 mPa.s under normal and stress conditions, respectively. Although unexplored, the sinami seed could be considered a raw material for the cosmetic industry.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-06-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42878447","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Acne-like Eruptions: Disease Features and Differential Diagnosis","authors":"E. Parać, B. Špiljak, L. Lugović-Mihić, Z. Bukvić Mokos","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10030089","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030089","url":null,"abstract":"The term “acne-like eruptions” encompasses a variety of skin conditions resembling acne vulgaris. While both acne-like dermatoses and true acne are frequently observed in clinical settings, differentiating between the two might be challenging. Similar to acne, the lesions of acne-like eruptions may exhibit papules, pustules, nodules, and cysts. However, contrary to acne, comedones are uncommon but may still be observed in certain types of acne-like eruptions. Moreover, acne-like eruptions can be differentiated from acne based on their sudden onset, the propensity to occur across all age groups, the monomorphic appearance of lesions, and the distributions extending outside the seborrheic regions. The development of acne-like eruptions cannot be attributed to a single underlying mechanism; nevertheless, various factors such as patient age, infections, occupation, habits, cosmetics, and medications may be involved. The observed lesions may not respond to standard acne therapy, necessitating that treatment strategies are tailored in accordance with the identified causative agents. The following review aims to outline distinct entities of acne-like eruptions and present features that set them apart from true acne. Acne-like eruptions in the adult population, infectious diseases resembling acne, and acne-like eruptions resulting from exposure to chemical and physical agents are addressed in this paper. An understanding of the clinical presentation, pathophysiology, and epidemiology of this group of dermatoses is pivotal for a precise diagnosis and provision of appropriate care.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-06-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47984938","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Protective Effects of Naringenin against UVB Irradiation and Air Pollution-Induced Skin Aging and Pigmentation","authors":"C. Österlund, Nina Hrapovic, Virginie Lafon-Kolb, N. Amini, S. Smiljanic, L. Visdal-Johnsen","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10030088","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030088","url":null,"abstract":"Both UVB irradiation and air pollution are major extrinsic factors causing premature aging of the skin, including sagging, wrinkles, and pigmentation spots. Naringenin, a naturally occurring flavanone, found in citrus fruits, and known for its good antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, was investigated for protective effects in human skin cells and reconstructed epidermis. The results showed that naringenin inhibits UVB-induced inflammation markers MMP1, MMP3, IL6, and GM-CSF, as well as pollution-induced MMP1 in human skin fibroblasts. Furthermore, naringenin inhibited the pollution-induced expression of the CYP1A1 gene in human skin keratinocytes. In melanocytes and pigmented reconstructed epidermis, naringenin significantly downregulated several genes involved in melanogenesis, such as MITF, MLPH, and MYO5A. Additionally topical treatment with naringenin on pigmented reconstructed epidermis significantly decreased melanin production. In conclusion, this study demonstrates that naringenin could be a valuable ingredient in skincare products, protecting against the detrimental effects of both UVB and pollution on the skin.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-06-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45530412","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Physicochemical Properties, Antioxidant and Anti-Tyrosinase Activities of Durio zibethinus Murray and Value Added for Cosmetic Product Formulation","authors":"Lapatrada Mungmai, Chanapa Kanokwattananon, Supawadee Thakang, Arkhanut Nakkrathok, P. Srisuksomwong, P. Tanamatayarat","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10030087","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030087","url":null,"abstract":"Durio zibethinus Murray, or durian fruit, is considered the “King of fruit” in various parts of Southeast Asia. It is classified in the Durio genus, which has been reported to be beneficial in the medical and pharmaceutical industry. The objective of this study was to investigate the physicochemical properties, biological activities, and cosmetic applications of the polysaccharide extractions from the green (GH) and white (WH) fruit-hulls and the ethanolic extracts from the pulp (P) and seeds (S) of D. Zibethinus. The extracts were developed as cosmetic products, and skin irritation was assessed by volunteers. P, S, GH, and WH extracts gave percentage yields of 12.13, 4.01, 1.60, and 1.18, respectively. The morphological structure of GH was highly porous, while the surface of WH was flattened, with no porosity observed. The seed extract showed the highest total phenolic content and antioxidant activity (DPPH) of 0.33 ± 0.01 mg GAE/g and IC50 0.08 ± 0.00 mg/mL, respectively, while no anti-tyrosinase activity was detected in any individual extract. The total phenolic content, DPPH assay, and anti-tyrosinase activity after blending the extracts were significantly (p < 0.05) higher than in the individual extracts. Combining extracts such as SGH and SGWH gave IC50 values of anti-tyrosinase activity at 8.69 ± 1.82 mg/mL and 0.067 ± 0.00 mg/mL, respectively. No durian extracts exhibited growth inhibition against Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus pyogenes, and Cutibacterium acnes. A gel formulation containing durian extract was prepared by a cold process. It had good stability, with no skin irritation reported by the volunteers. Both crude durian and polysaccharide extracts showed promise as active ingredients in cosmetic products.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-06-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43695719","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Cosmetic and Pharmaceutic Products with Selected Natural and Synthetic Substances for Melasma Treatment and Methods of Their Analysis","authors":"Agata Wawrzyńczak","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10030086","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030086","url":null,"abstract":"Melasma is a fairly common condition that is the result of hyperpigmentation caused by increased melanin secretion. In the course of melasma, certain areas of the skin become darker than the rest of the epidermis. Although the pathogenesis remains incompletely clarified, several contributing factors have been identified, namely exposure to ultraviolet and visible light, family predisposition, pregnancy, and the use of exogenous hormones. Since current beauty standards associate healthy skin with its flawless and uniform color, people strive to eliminate any unaesthetic discoloration. Cosmetic and pharmaceutical products containing active substances with a whitening effect then become helpful. The most commonly used for this purpose are hydroquinone, arbutin, retinoids, organic acids (e.g., kojic, azelaic, and ellagic), and vitamins (B3, C, and E). However, the undesirable side effects they cause and the drive to replace synthetic chemicals with their natural counterparts have resulted in numerous reports on extracts of natural origin that exhibit skin-whitening effects. The purpose of this paper is to review the most recent scientific literature, which presents active substances of natural and synthetic origin with potential for the treatment of melasma. In addition, analytical techniques that can be used for qualitative and quantitative analysis of these substances present in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products will also be presented.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-06-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48438662","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}