{"title":"A systematic review of natural colourants and trend forecasting practices for the textile and fashion industry","authors":"Bintan Titisari, Pammi Sinha","doi":"10.1111/cote.12836","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12836","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Recent global interest in sustainable practices in the textile and fashion industry has inspired stakeholders to readopt natural colourants. However, integrating these practices raises several questions regarding the latest developments in natural colourant and trend forecasting practices in the textile and fashion industry. It also prompts inquiries about how to incorporate the use of natural colourants into current industry, and the role of the trend forecasting industry in this. Colour decisions, first in the fashion design process, are influenced by the designer's creativity, forecasted trends and factory capabilities. A systematic literature review was conducted to examine the latest developments in natural colourants and trend forecasting for the textile and fashion industry. This was compared with a desk-based review of current trend forecasting practices. Five topics emerged from the examination of the literature of natural colourants: natural colourant sources; colouration technology; the application of natural colourants; culture and tradition; and industrialising natural colourants. Meanwhile, four areas arose from the literature of trend forecasting: technology, process, business and society. The in-depth analysis of natural colourant literature focused on “industrialising natural colourants” papers and discovered four key themes: industry scalability; consumer behaviour; economic value; and marketing and promotion. Comparison across these reviews identified opportunities for incorporating natural colourants through technology, marketing and education, supported by trend forecasting practices. Further research and significant adjustments in the industry are crucial, either to facilitate the integration of natural colourants into existing systems or to determine whether parallel standards and tools need to be developed.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"141 6","pages":"801-827"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2025-06-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12836","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145479934","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Joni Hyttinen, Riikka Räisänen, Markku Hauta-Kasari
{"title":"The BioColour Library","authors":"Joni Hyttinen, Riikka Räisänen, Markku Hauta-Kasari","doi":"10.1111/cote.12827","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12827","url":null,"abstract":"<p>The attraction of adopting natural and bio-based colourants in applications has grown, but their use suffers from a lack of certification bodies, standards and reference data. In the BioColour project, we are developing an open database and tools for the characterisation, authentication and quality analysis of biocolourant sources, biocolourants and coloured products. The database is multidisciplinary and currently combines taxonomy, botany and chemistry to form chemo-taxonomic authenticity fingerprints of biocolourant compounds. The database collates numerical structured data from targeted analyses, such as high-performance liquid chromatography-diode array detector-tandem mass spectrometry from published peer-reviewed articles and books. The target audience, in addition to researchers, and expected use-cases of the database, includes biocolourant refining, companies using biocolourants, dye conservators and archaeologists. For craft enthusiasts and hobbyists, the database also records material and colour information, consisting of both CIELab colour coordinates as well as spectral reflectance, of textile samples dyed with various biocolourants. We have implemented the database as an online service with a Django web framework and PostgreSQL relational database management system. This article discusses the key features of the current prototype database system from the user's perspective, demonstrating that the three main sections of the database are divided it into taxonomy fact sheets, chemical fact sheets and a colour palette. We published the database as an open publicly available online service on 16 December 2024.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"141 6","pages":"762-775"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2025-05-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12827","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145479992","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Laurence Douny, José Ignacio Hernández Lobato, Shahrouz Amini, Adama Séré, Salif Sawadogo, Peter Fratzl, Regine Hengge
{"title":"Vouwo mud dye: A material, microbiological and cultural approach to researching sustainable textile dyes","authors":"Laurence Douny, José Ignacio Hernández Lobato, Shahrouz Amini, Adama Séré, Salif Sawadogo, Peter Fratzl, Regine Hengge","doi":"10.1111/cote.12824","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12824","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Coloration using soil-based dyes is a fast-growing subject of enquiry in fibres and textile surface design, with pigments and microbes involved in their production being extensively researched. Dyeing techniques using this rich natural resource have also been integral to long-standing textile traditions worldwide. Grounded in an anthropological study of the dyeing practice of Marka-Dafing hunters in Burkina Faso, West Africa, this paper presents an analysis of the coloration processes in <i>vouwo</i>, or mud dye, used for hunting and ceremonial garments. It highlights complex biochemical and microbiological reactions occurring in a dyeing experiment curated by dyers throughout an 18-month-long fermentation process. The authors propose an interdisciplinary approach to the study of <i>vouwo</i> that combines (i) detailed examination and documentation of craft practice with (ii) a materials science-based analysis of the iron ore used and of the resulting brown colour shades and (iii) a microbiological description of the multiple roles of bacteria and their complex interactions with plants such as <i>Acacia nilotica</i> in the dyeing process. By underlining the material, biochemical, microbiological and medicinal properties of <i>vouwo</i> dye, our study of dyeing with soil as a natural colourant calls attention to a potential role of traditional craft knowledge in dialogue with modern science for the future production of more sustainable and health-promoting dyes.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"141 6","pages":"843-854"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2025-04-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12824","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145480166","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Ernesto Olvera-Quintanar, Jimena García-Lapuente, Ahmed Cruz-Moreno G., Everardo Tapia-Mendoza
{"title":"Optimisation of purple dyeing with Mexican cochineal in cotton with multivariate analysis and the response surface method","authors":"Ernesto Olvera-Quintanar, Jimena García-Lapuente, Ahmed Cruz-Moreno G., Everardo Tapia-Mendoza","doi":"10.1111/cote.12822","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12822","url":null,"abstract":"<p>This study aims to optimise the dyeing process of cotton fabrics using Mexican cochineal (<i>Dactylopius coccus</i> Costa). The objective is to obtain purple hues through the design of experiments and by using multivariate analysis. Plackett–Burman experimental designs and the response surface method were used to systematically optimise the dyeing parameters. The meta-mordanting process was the most critical factor affecting the achievement of purple hues, followed by cochineal concentration, toner concentration and dyeing time. The multivariate analysis of principal component analysis with discriminant analysis was applied to determine the significance of washing methods and toner types. Various traditional Mexican toners, including <i>tequesquite</i>, cardon and ash, were evaluated. The washing method was not significant, while the toner type showed a tendency towards clustering, indicating a significant effect on the dyeing process. The most recommended method was the one using <i>tequesquite</i>, with 20% on weight of fabric (owf) cochineal, 5% owf toner and a dyeing time of 66 minutes. Cardon was recommended as a viable toner alternative. This research provides a reproducible method for achieving desired purple shades, preserving traditional dyeing techniques from Mexican indigenous cultures.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"142 1","pages":"156-169"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2025-03-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12822","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145941814","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Study on the properties of polyaniline composite TiO2 electrochromic materials","authors":"Jian Xiong, Yue Wu, Chu Xu, Shengya Chen, Liufen Xia, Yogendra Kumar Mishra","doi":"10.1111/cote.12787","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12787","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Polyaniline (PANI) composite is an effective way to improve the electrochromic properties of inorganic materials. However, there is still a lack of systematic research on the electrochromic properties of PANI composite titanium dioxide (TiO<sub>2</sub>) materials. In this work, TiO<sub>2</sub> thin films with different PANI composite contents (PANI-TiO<sub>2</sub>) were prepared by deposition method combined with hydrothermal method. The effects of different composite contents of PANI on the morphology and electrochromic properties of the samples were investigated using X-ray diffraction (XRD), Raman, field emission scanning electron microscopy (FESEM), high-resolution transmission electron microscopy (HR-TEM) and electrochemical methods. It was found that a certain amount of PANI composite could enhance the electrochromic properties of TiO<sub>2</sub> electrochromic materials. In this study, the 5% PANI-TiO<sub>2</sub> film has the best electrochromic performance, the ion diffusion coefficient of 5% PANI-TiO<sub>2</sub> composite film is 7.42 × 10<sup>−10</sup> cm<sup>2</sup>/s, the optical modulation increased by 54.2%, and the bleached and coloured switching time are 19.98 and 33.45 s, respectively, which all indicate that the appropriate amount of PANI composite can enhance the electrochromic performance of TiO<sub>2</sub> materials. These results show that the appropriate amount of PANI composite is indeed as an effective way to optimise the electrochromic performance of TiO<sub>2</sub>.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"142 1","pages":"142-155"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2025-03-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145941813","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The plasticisation model of dye diffusion: Part 4","authors":"Stephen M. Burkinshaw","doi":"10.1111/cote.12816","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12816","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Previously published data reported for the temperature dependency of the diffusion of an organic acid within PA 6 film, as well as the desorption of three acid dyes from dyed nylon 66 fabric, diffusion of an acid dye within nylon 6 film and the adsorption of a sulphur dye onto nylon 66 fabric, over a diverse range of application/washing/dyeing temperatures and conditions, were re-evaluated using the Williams-Landel-Ferry (WLF) equation. As the experimentally observed diffusion/desorption/adsorption of the organic acid, each of the anionic dyes and the sulphur dye within/from/onto each of the respective polyamide substrates adhered to a WLF relationship, the thermally activated diffusivity of the various anionic species is governed by the thermally regulated structural relaxation times of the water-saturated, water-swollen, water-plasticised, poly(ε-caprolactam) or poly(hexamethylene) adipamide macromolecules. The plasticisation model of dye diffusion seems to offer a reasonable explanation of the observed temperature dependency of the diffusivity of the simple organic acid, each of the four acid dyes and the sulphur dye within both types of aliphatic polyamide.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"142 1","pages":"119-141"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2025-03-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12816","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145941818","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Chemical constitutions in the Colour Index™: A century of colourant classification","authors":"Andrew Towns","doi":"10.1111/cote.12819","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12819","url":null,"abstract":"<p>This article details how the <i>Colour Index</i>™ (CI) system categorises and unambiguously labels commercial dyes and pigments based upon their chemical constitutions. It outlines the current process by which colourants that are new to the market find a place within CI and acquire generic identifiers. The contents of this paper will enable both experienced users of CI and those who are unfamiliar with the resource to gain not only a detailed understanding of its classification system, but also a deeper appreciation of what colourant designations signify and how they are correctly utilised.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"141 4","pages":"427-472"},"PeriodicalIF":2.0,"publicationDate":"2025-03-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12819","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144589700","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}