Investigation of the dyeability and various performance properties of fabrics produced from flax and hemp fibres and their blends with cotton in comparison with cotton

In this study, it is aimed to provide alternative fibres to cotton with enhanced comfort level, environmentally friendly and colour-enriched in the cellulosic knitted fabric field. For this purpose, in addition to 100% cotton, 100% linen, 100% hemp yarns, knitted fabrics were produced from 70% cotton/30% linen and 70% cotton/30% hemp yarns. First of all, the properties of yarns such as tenacity, elongation at break, yarn unevenness, thin places, thick places and neps were examined comparatively. Then, pique fabrics were produced from these yarns and dyed with a reactive dye to a selected colour. Afterwards, physical (weight, wale/course density), mechanical (bursting strength, pilling, abrasion resistance) and comfort (air permeability and water vapour permeability) properties of all fabric samples, both in raw form and after dyeing and finishing processes, were compared. Furthermore, dyeing properties (colour, dye-uptake, dyeing levelness, fastness) of fabric samples were also investigated. The dye uptake (%) values of the yarns decrease in the order of cotton > cotton/hemp > cotton/linen > hemp > linen. However, fastness values of dyed fabrics were nearly identical. Physical and mechanical properties of fabrics were very similar, while the air permeability of the fabrics decrease in the order of hemp > linen > cotton/hemp > cotton/linen > cotton. As a result of the study, it has been possible to produce knitted fabrics with superior performance characteristics (dyeability, comfort, etc.) from yarns produced via blending natural cellulosic fibres (flax and hemp) with certain proportions of cotton fibres, which contribute to sustainable production.