{"title":"Alizarin old and new: Extraction techniques for coloration, advances in detection methods for historical textiles and novel applications as a functional dye","authors":"Khai Ly Do, Asim Mushtaq, Feng Zhao, Miao Su","doi":"10.1111/cote.12711","DOIUrl":"10.1111/cote.12711","url":null,"abstract":"<p>The current study provides the first review of alizarin, a natural dye, in terms of its historical aspects and its potential for functional applications in textiles. The review begins with a brief overview of natural alizarin and its occurrence in Rubiaceae family plants, followed by a discussion of alizarin acquisition from its botanical sources through conventional and advanced extraction methods. A special emphasis of this study is on the identification of natural alizarin colourants in archaeological and cultural textiles by using analytical methods based on reflectance, Raman spectroscopy, mass spectrometry and chromatographic profiles. In addition, the functional properties of natural alizarin, including its antimicrobial activity, anti-oxidant activity, insect repellence and ultraviolet protection, are analysed. This paper summarises the methods for obtaining alizarin for coloration, as well as advanced techniques for detecting alizarin in historical textiles, and potential applications of natural alizarin as a functional textile dye.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"140 1","pages":"5-29"},"PeriodicalIF":1.8,"publicationDate":"2023-07-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46154939","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Jianing Fan, Shouying Wu, Zixian Wang, Minglong Zheng, Miaomiao Zhang, Linping Zhang, Yi Zhong, Xiaofeng Sui, Hong Xu, Zhiping Mao
{"title":"Rapid decolorisation of dyeing wastewater by FeIII(2,2′:6′,2″-terpyridine)activated peroxymonosulphate","authors":"Jianing Fan, Shouying Wu, Zixian Wang, Minglong Zheng, Miaomiao Zhang, Linping Zhang, Yi Zhong, Xiaofeng Sui, Hong Xu, Zhiping Mao","doi":"10.1111/cote.12710","DOIUrl":"10.1111/cote.12710","url":null,"abstract":"<p>The discharge of coloured textile printing and dyeing wastewater causes environmental pollution. Disposing of wastewater efficiently, simply and with low consumption, is a problem that must be addressed. Herein, a catalytic method for rapid decolorisation of organic dyes was devised employing a terpyridine iron complex to activate oxidised permonosulphate. CI Acid Red 1 was used as the simulated pollutant, the influences of operating parameters on the fading effects of wastewater were explored. According to the results, the produced catalytic system exhibits a universal catalytic effect. Even when the dye concentration reaches 76.4 mg/L, the dyeing wastewater may be effectively decolorised. In addition, when anions (HCO<sub>3</sub><sup>−</sup>, SO<sub>4</sub><sup>2−</sup>, Cl<sup>−</sup>) were present in the solution, the degradation effect of CI Acid Red 1 was still effective. Interestingly, active species such as sulphate radicals and singlet oxygen were detected in the catalytic degradation system by radical capture experiments. The removal rate of total organic carbon can achieve a percentage of 26.22% in 2 hours. This research provides a unique, enzyme-like catalytic system for the rapid breakdown of dye contaminants.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"140 2","pages":"300-312"},"PeriodicalIF":1.8,"publicationDate":"2023-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"62714430","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Liting Liang, Hong Li, Xiaoyu Cai, Yue Dai, Jun Yan
{"title":"Enhancing the outline sharpness of crosslinked printed cotton fabrics using ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether","authors":"Liting Liang, Hong Li, Xiaoyu Cai, Yue Dai, Jun Yan","doi":"10.1111/cote.12709","DOIUrl":"10.1111/cote.12709","url":null,"abstract":"<p>In the current study, to obtain environmentally friendly printed cotton fabrics with a clear contour edge, ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether (EGDE) as a crosslinking agent and guar gum as a thickener were used with natural madder dye. The solid content of the thickener was assessed to determine the optimal viscosity of the printing paste. Scanning electron microscopy images and colour depth (<i>K/S</i>) values were used to analyse the surface morphology and printing properties. The pattern outline of the printed cotton fabric was assessed with an optical microscope. Also, the overall fastness properties of the printed fabrics were evaluated. The results showed that when the solid content of guar gum was 2.5%, the viscosity of the printing paste was close to 10 000 mPa.s, which was suitable for printing cotton fabrics. Scanning electron microscopy analysis showed that most of the printing paste was removed during the washing process, and did not affect the microstructure of the cotton fabric. Compared with direct printed cotton fabrics, the <i>K/S</i> values of mordant and crosslinked printed cotton fabrics increased by 3.12 and 4.01, respectively. In the optical microscopy photographs, the mordant and crosslinked printed cotton fabrics displayed a clear outline sharpness of the printed pattern, and excellent printed products were obtained. The colour fastness to washing, rubbing and light of the crosslinked printed cotton fabric were significantly improved, reaching levels of 4-5.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"140 2","pages":"270-278"},"PeriodicalIF":1.8,"publicationDate":"2023-06-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41695089","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Syntheses and dyeing properties of novel water-soluble reactive sulphur black dyes","authors":"Zhengyang Gao, Wei Ma, Bingtao Tang, Shufen Zhang","doi":"10.1111/cote.12707","DOIUrl":"10.1111/cote.12707","url":null,"abstract":"<p>The practical application of a sulphur black dye relies on its ability to dye cotton fibres with pure black colour and maintain the colour with high light fastness. Here, we report a synthesis method to prepare a novel water-soluble reactive sulphur black dye. The approach involves the reduction of CI Sulphur Black 1 to its leuco form and subsequent reaction with a water-soluble intermediate containing reactive groups synthesised from amino acid and cyanuric chloride. The optimal carboxyl and reactive group content of the water-soluble reactive sulphur black dye is 141 mmol/100 g, and the water solubility can reach 92 g/L. The fixation of the reactive sulphur black dye on cotton reaches 89% in a pad dyeing process without using sodium sulphate. The reactive sulphur black dye can achieve a light fastness of grade 6-7, a dry rub fastness of grade 4 and a wet rub fastness of grade 2, comparable or higher than the conventional CI Sulphur Black 1. The dyeing results showed that the novel water-soluble reactive sulphur black dye has excellent performance and good application prospects.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"140 3","pages":"403-411"},"PeriodicalIF":1.8,"publicationDate":"2023-06-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47963399","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Ivana Jurič, Sunčica Zdravković, Nemanja Kašiković, Sandra Dedijer, Magdolna Pal, Živko Pavlović, Igor Karlovits
{"title":"Comparative study of different methods for the assessment of print nonuniformity and their correlation with the human visual system","authors":"Ivana Jurič, Sunčica Zdravković, Nemanja Kašiković, Sandra Dedijer, Magdolna Pal, Živko Pavlović, Igor Karlovits","doi":"10.1111/cote.12708","DOIUrl":"10.1111/cote.12708","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Print nonuniformity is the variation of optical density (reflection) on the print and can occur in several different types that can be classified into two basic groups: random and systematic variations. This article examines two types from each group of variations that are most commonly found in digital printing systems: blotches and streaks, where amplitude and size were varied. Three most commonly used methods for measuring the print nonuniformity were used: Grey Level Co-occurrence Matrix (GLCM), ISO 13660 and Integration (also Improved Integration) method. The results obtained by measuring were compared with a visual assessment to find the link between objective and subjective analysis and to define and determine which method/parameter is the best for the measurement of which type of print (non)uniformity. The obtained results indicate the possibility of selecting the measurement parameter, but that the choice of the parameter depends on the type of nonuniformity. It is concluded that in the case of the GLCM method, the entropy and energy parameters are strongly related to the visual assessment for all three sets of samples. These parameters can be used regardless of the type of nonuniformity. The ISO G parameter can be used to measure both graininess and mottling, while the ISO M parameter is only suitable for measuring mottling. Integration method could be used to measure systematic error. On the basis of conclusions of the research, it is possible to propose the development of an industrially applicable solution for measuring print nonuniformity of digitally printed samples.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"140 2","pages":"239-251"},"PeriodicalIF":1.8,"publicationDate":"2023-06-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46858055","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Jun Yan, Shuang Du, Jinhua Hu, Kazuhiro Tamura, Hong Li
{"title":"Solubility prediction of CI Disperse Red 4 and CI Disperse Red 15 in supercritical carbon dioxide based on the back propagation neural network","authors":"Jun Yan, Shuang Du, Jinhua Hu, Kazuhiro Tamura, Hong Li","doi":"10.1111/cote.12706","DOIUrl":"10.1111/cote.12706","url":null,"abstract":"<p>The solubility of 1-amino-2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-anthraquinone (CI Disperse Red 4) and 1-amino-2-hydroxy-anthraquinone (CI Disperse Red 15) in supercritical carbon dioxide was measured using a dynamic method over a temperature range from 343.15 to 373.15 K and a pressure range from 14 to 22 MPa. The experimental data are analysed by using the back propagation neural network constructed by MATLAB. In the back propagation neural network, the input layer consisted of two inputs, which are temperature and pressure, the output layer consisted of the solubility of dyes, and the hidden layer function was composed of a non-linear function. The results of the analysis showed that a good fitting level of 0.99 was obtained, which means that the back propagation neural network can accurately estimate the solubility data in supercritical carbon dioxide.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"140 2","pages":"230-238"},"PeriodicalIF":1.8,"publicationDate":"2023-05-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135860167","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Hongwei Zhang, Shuaibo Liu, Shuai Lu, Le Yao, Pengfei Li
{"title":"Knowledge distillation for unsupervised defect detection of yarn-dyed fabric using the system DAERD: Dual attention embedded reconstruction distillation","authors":"Hongwei Zhang, Shuaibo Liu, Shuai Lu, Le Yao, Pengfei Li","doi":"10.1111/cote.12705","DOIUrl":"10.1111/cote.12705","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Detecting defects of yarn-dyed fabrics automatically in industrial scenarios can improve economic efficiency, but the scarcity of defect samples makes the task more challenging in the customised and small-batch production scenario. At present, most reconstruction-based methods have high requirements on the effect of reconstructing the defect area into the normal area, and the reconstruction performance often determines the final defect detection result. To solve this problem, this article proposes an unsupervised learning framework of dual attention embedded reconstruction distillation. We try to use this novel distillation scheme to provide some contribution to the defect detection field. Firstly, different from the encoder-encoder structure of traditional distillation, the teacher-student network in this article adopts the encoder-decoder structure. The purpose of the student network is to restore the normal feature representation of the pre-trained teacher network. Secondly, this article proposes a dual attention residual module, which can effectively remove redundant information and defective feature information from the teacher network through the double feature weight allocation mechanism. This helps the student network to recover the normal feature information output by the teacher network. Finally, the multi-level training deployment at the feature level in this article aims to make the model obtain accurate defect detection results. The proposed method has been extensively tested on the published fabric dataset YDFID-1, ZJU-Leaper dataset and the anomaly detection dataset MVTec. The results show that this method not only has good performance in fabric defect detection and location but also has universal applicability.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"140 1","pages":"125-143"},"PeriodicalIF":1.8,"publicationDate":"2023-05-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136066137","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Low-water-soluble reactive dyes for application in ultrafine polyamide/polyurethane synthetic leather","authors":"Dexiang Li, Wei Ma, Bingtao Tang, Shufen Zhang","doi":"10.1111/cote.12692","DOIUrl":"10.1111/cote.12692","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Ultrafine polyamide/polyurethane synthetic leather (UP/PSL), with a highly natural leather-like appearance and touch, is widely used in many leather commodities. Generally, acid dyes, which are mostly used for dyeing UP/PSL, exhibit poor colour fastness. While, reactive dyes are well-known for their good colour fastness. However, reactive dyes are not used to dye UP/PSL because they are water-soluble and cannot stain the polyurethane (PU) in UP/PSL. In this study, five low water-soluble reactive dyes with good affinity for both polyamide (PA) and PU were synthesised and characterised using ultraviolet-visible and infrared spectroscopy, and mass spectrometry. All low-water-soluble reactive dyes were monoazo dyes with only one sulfonic group and two different functional groups. The reactive dyes were used to dye UP/PSL at 98°C and fixed at 90°C with 7-azatridecane-1,13-diamine as a crosslinking agent. For comparison, Eriofast Red-2B (ER-2B) was used to dye UP/PSL using a special dyeing procedure. ER-2B showed severe issues related to low utilisation and uneven dyeing, whereas the five low water-soluble reactive dyes exhibited better performance than ER-2B. Both the exhaustion and fixation of dyes 1 and 4 exceeded 90.0% when the dosage was less than 3.0% owf (on weight of fabric). In addition, they exhibited good levelling. The washing fastness of the five reactive dyes was excellent and higher than grade 4. The dry rubbing fastness was higher than grade 3-4. Therefore, UP/PSL can be satisfactorily dyed using the reactive dyes with a solubility of less than 1.0 g/L and meet the requirements of daily life applications.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"140 2","pages":"252-261"},"PeriodicalIF":1.8,"publicationDate":"2023-05-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42319544","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Luciana M. C. Silva, Patrícia M. dos S. Silva, Caroline S. Pagnan, Eliane Ayres
{"title":"Insights into the dyeing using natural indigo (Indigofera tinctoria): Toward an environmentally friendly garment","authors":"Luciana M. C. Silva, Patrícia M. dos S. Silva, Caroline S. Pagnan, Eliane Ayres","doi":"10.1111/cote.12704","DOIUrl":"10.1111/cote.12704","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Currently, the use of natural indigo dye has been treated as an alternative to overcome the environmental pollution caused by synthetic indigo. Irrespective of the indigo dye source, it must be reduced to its soluble form by using reducing agents in a suitable alkaline environment. Herein, bio-sugars such as glucose or fructose were used for this purpose. The results revealed that when fructose was used instead of glucose, colour strength (<i>K/S</i>) values increased. In this work, cotton was cationised with water-soluble chitosan. Water-soluble chitosan in a wide pH range extends the use of chitosan in textiles, which otherwise is limited due to its poor water solubility at pH above 6.0. Colour fastness washing test was conducted to evaluate the efficacy of cotton cationisation. The performance of cationised samples was around 30% higher in comparison to non-cationised samples. Moreover, in this article we have focused on integrating materials and design. We propose a garment, using natural indigo-dyed cotton and a zero-waste modelling approach, as a sustainable fashion product.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"140 1","pages":"114-124"},"PeriodicalIF":1.8,"publicationDate":"2023-05-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46331659","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Development of polycaprolactone-based electrospun pH-sensitive sensors as instant colorimetric indicators for food packaging","authors":"Nihal Guclu, Sebnem Duzyer Gebizli, Mehmet Orhan","doi":"10.1111/cote.12701","DOIUrl":"10.1111/cote.12701","url":null,"abstract":"<p>In the present study, polycaprolactone/polyethylene glycol (PCL/PEG) electrospun nanofibres with different anthocyanin (1%, 2%, 3%, and 5%) were fabricated for the instant measurement of pH, especially for applications—such as food freshness detection—where quick response is required. The solution, surface, chemical, thermal, wettability, mechanical, and release properties of the samples were evaluated by viscosity measurements, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR), contact angle measurements, and tensile tests, respectively. The colorimetric analyses were also investigated against the solutions at different pH values and bacterial solutions. Finally, the on-site performance of the sensor was evaluated. Anthocyanin addition initially lowered the solution viscosity, resulting in thinner fibres with a diameter of 288 nm. The diameters were increased up to 395 nm with the increasing anthocyanin. Anthocyanin addition enhanced the wettability and the mechanical properties, and the contact angles decreased to 43°. The highest modulus was observed for 1% anthocyanin, with a value of 6.162. The release experiments revealed that the anthocyanin-loaded samples released a large amount of anthocyanin (between ~12% and 38%) in the first 15 s. The colorimetric analyses showed that PCL/PEG nanofibre mats with 2% and 3% anthocyanin concentrations were the most capable pH-sensitive sensors for detecting pH changes from 2 to 8. As a result, it can be concluded that 3% anthocyanin is the threshold value for the production of the anthocyanin-loaded nanofibre mats, and these structures are promising for the instant detection of pH proved by the on-site application.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"139 5","pages":"527-543"},"PeriodicalIF":1.8,"publicationDate":"2023-05-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12701","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45031823","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}