{"title":"Investigation into the eco-friendly, simultaneous tanning and reactive dyeing of leather","authors":"Darryl M. Cassingham, Georg Roentgen","doi":"10.1111/cote.12818","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12818","url":null,"abstract":"<p>The leather industry is facing increasing environmental pressure, with ongoing scrutiny of its chemical usage, processing conditions, end-of-life criteria and CO<sub>2</sub>e footprint. This paper presents a disruptive technology that delivers a groundbreaking approach to addressing these immediate challenges for the leather industry. The patented Avicuero system provides a “green” technology enabling simultaneous tanning and dyeing, which is completely free of metals, aldehydes and bisphenols, with the resultant leather offering good hydrothermal stability combined with excellent depth of shade and colour fastness properties. Analyses of the dyeing process demonstrated excellent penetration of the leather substrate and near complete exhaustion and fixation of the reactive colourants (based on halotriazine and sulphatoethyl sulphone chemistry), leading to excellent colour strength for the Avicuero Black SL tanned leather, with superior fastness performance relative to competitive tanning technologies. In addition, the multifunctional reactive dye/collagen crosslinking imparted effective tanning to the leather with a hydrothermal shrinkage temperature of 77°C. Further technical advantages are the significant reductions in water and energy requirements (reduced machine processing time and processing temperatures) compared with current industrial technologies, and continuing to use current standard tannery processing equipment.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"142 1","pages":"102-118"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2025-03-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145941681","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Effect of bleaching treatments on wool fabrics analysed via attenuated total reflection Fourier Transform–infrared spectroscopy","authors":"Ayumi Isaka, Shinji Ando, Akio Kuzuhara","doi":"10.1111/cote.12814","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12814","url":null,"abstract":"<p>To investigate the effects of three commercial bleaching agents (hydrogen peroxide, sodium percarbonate and sodium hypochlorite) on textile products, the structural changes and chemical damage caused by these bleaching agents on wool fabrics were quantitatively characterised using attenuated total reflection Fourier Transform–infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy. A comparison of the spectral changes before and after the treatment showed that the wool fabrics treated with sodium hypochlorite and sodium percarbonate were severely and slightly damaged, respectively. By contrast, the fabrics treated with hydrogen peroxide were almost undamaged and whiter. Compared with untreated wools, or those treated with oxygen-bleaching agents (sodium percarbonate and hydrogen peroxide), the amide I band centred at 1647 cm<sup>−1</sup> in the ATR-FTIR spectra of the wool fabrics broadened significantly after the treatment with the chlorine-bleaching agent (sodium hypochlorite). Furthermore, the amide I band broadened, and the intensity of the amide III band centred at 1235 cm<sup>−1</sup> increased with increasing the chlorine content and yellowing in the wool fabrics. Based on these experiments, it was concluded that the structural changes and chemical damage caused by the chlorine-bleaching treatment of wool fabrics caused the oxidative cleavage of <span></span>SS<span></span> groups and the randomisation of cortex structures due to chlorination.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"142 1","pages":"92-101"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2025-03-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145941622","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Wool dyeing with purple sweet potato extract by enhancing dye uptake and stability using lecithin during the mordanting process","authors":"Sahar Ghased, Hossein Barani, Samaneh Khaleghi","doi":"10.1111/cote.12812","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12812","url":null,"abstract":"<p>This study explores the use of lecithin during the mordanting stage in the natural dyeing of wool with purple sweet potato extract to enhance dye uptake. We investigate the impact of lecithin on dyeing efficiency, considering variables such as temperature, pH and dye concentration. The results demonstrate that incorporating lecithin during mordanting significantly improves dye uptake, resulting in a true purple hue with enhanced chroma in the dyed wool yarns. Dyeing under acidic conditions produced higher colour strength because of the prevalence of the red-coloured flavylium cation form of anthocyanins. Fourier Transform–infrared spectroscopy confirmed the presence of anthocyanins and their interactions with wool fibres. Additionally, colour fastness evaluations showed that the use of aluminium salts (Al<sup>3+</sup>) as a mordant played a key role in enhancing fastness properties. Light fastness was rated fair to good for both peel- and flesh-dyed wool samples. Moreover, the purple sweet potato extract demonstrated significant anti-bacterial properties, effectively inhibiting a range of bacterial strains, including both Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria. This study provides valuable insights into optimising natural dyeing processes and highlights the potential of lecithin in mordanting for sustainable and high-performance textile applications.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"142 1","pages":"75-91"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2025-02-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145930861","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Ahmet Akgül, Ş. Güniz Küçükgüzel, Mehmet Oktav, Sevim Rollas
{"title":"Investigation of the printability of ethyl 2-[4-(1,3,4-oxadiazol-2(3H)-thion-5-yl)phenylhydrazono]-3-oxobutyrate on coated and uncoated papers","authors":"Ahmet Akgül, Ş. Güniz Küçükgüzel, Mehmet Oktav, Sevim Rollas","doi":"10.1111/cote.12820","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12820","url":null,"abstract":"<p>There is a growing demand in the printing industry for pigment-based inks with excellent lightfastness and rub resistance qualities. In this work, a novel ink with the formulation ethyl 2-[4-(1,3,4-oxadiazole-2(3H)-thione-5-yl)phenylhydrazono]-3-oxobutyrate (OXKT) was prepared as a pigment and its printability was investigated for use in printing. The OXKT was synthesised, characterised then printed on uncoated and gloss-coated papers and Bristol cardboard. Physical tests and spectrophotometric measurements were carried out to determine the technical characteristics of the printed ink. Additionally, print quality, ink density and gloss were evaluated. The results showed that the proposed ink with the OXKT compound had acceptable rub resistance. Also, the gloss and light fastness values exceeded the acceptable rates for the printing industry because of their colour differences. However, more research needs to be conducted to improve light performance. Nevertheless, it is still possible for use in applications that do not stipulate strict light fastness values.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"142 1","pages":"67-74"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2025-02-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12820","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145941791","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Patricia Muniz dos Santos Silva, Harold S. Freeman, Silgia Aparecida da Costa, Douglas da Silva Santos, Fernando Soares de Lima, Rayana Santiago de Queiroz, Ticiane Rossi Fiaschitello, Sirlene Maria da Costa
{"title":"Lignocellulose-based Stryphnodendron adstringens bark as a natural dye source for textiles: Extraction and dyeing studies","authors":"Patricia Muniz dos Santos Silva, Harold S. Freeman, Silgia Aparecida da Costa, Douglas da Silva Santos, Fernando Soares de Lima, Rayana Santiago de Queiroz, Ticiane Rossi Fiaschitello, Sirlene Maria da Costa","doi":"10.1111/cote.12815","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12815","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Natural dyes are gaining interest as a more ecological approach to textile coloration, as well as for slow fashion and the bioeconomy. The use of local raw materials is a way of valuing small producers and recovering traditional knowledge. In this context, the current investigation was developed to study the use of lignocellulose-based <i>Stryphnodendron adstringens</i> (Mart.) Coville (known as “barbatimão”) bark extract, from a native tree in Brazil, as a natural dye for textile dyeing. Physical–chemical analyses were performed on the reddish-brown extract, the results of which showed an acidic pH and the likely presence of condensed tannins and flavanols. The optimised dyeing process was evaluated by a 2<sup>3</sup> factorial design. The fabrics dyed under optimised conditions were evaluated for colour fastness to laundering, rubbing, light and perspiration, and obtained good colour fastness ratings in most of these tests. Wastewaters from dyeings were characterised by physicochemical analyses. Because of the high turbidity and high biochemical oxygen demand and chemical oxygen demand levels, as well as the amount of residual metal ions from dyeing with mordants, the need for wastewater pretreatment was evident. Based on this research, <i>S. adstringens</i> extracts have significant potential for textile coloration.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"142 1","pages":"52-66"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2025-02-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145941799","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Effects of copper-doping on electrochromic properties of titanium dioxide films","authors":"Shengya Chen, Chu Xu, Liufen Xia, Yue Wu, Guodong Jiang, Dong Xiao, Yogendra Kumar Mishra, Jian Xiong","doi":"10.1111/cote.12817","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12817","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Doping with metal elements is a valid way to alter the electrochromic performance of single materials. The doped metal ions can modify the electronic structure of the pristine materials, this results in a change in the transfer and migration of electrons or ions in electrochromic reactions. In this work, a series of copper (Cu)-doped titanium dioxide (TiO<sub>2</sub>) films (0.5%, 1% and 5 wt%) were fabricated by a hydrothermal method and a subsequently spin-coated approach. The effects of doped Cu on the morphological structure, crystallinity, elemental chemical state and electrochromic properties of TiO<sub>2</sub> films were evaluated by field emission scanning electron microscopy, high-resolution transmission electron microscopy, X-ray diffraction, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and electrochemical techniques. The doping of Cu into TiO<sub>2</sub> exerts a substantial influence on its crystal structure, with a marked deterioration in crystallinity observed as the doping concentration increases. The results show that the ionic diffusion coefficient of the 0.5% Cu-TiO<sub>2</sub> film is 7.74 × 10<sup>−10</sup> cm<sup>2</sup>/s, the light modulation range is as high as 50.3%, the bleaching and colouring switching times are 1.95 and 16.43 s, respectively, and the light transmittance retention rate can be maintained after 200 cycles. Overall exhibits preferred electrochromic and electrochemical properties. This study indicates that Cu doping with moderate concentration is a feasible way to heighten the electrochromic property of TiO<sub>2</sub>.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"141 5","pages":"740-752"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2025-02-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145022406","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Colorimetry in food analysis using digital imaging system","authors":"Mousumi Sabat, Pramod Shelake, Nachiket Kotwaliwale","doi":"10.1111/cote.12813","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12813","url":null,"abstract":"<p>A non-destructive, user-friendly, portable colour measurement system was developed using the MATLAB interface that gives acceptable results with any imaging sensor. Digital images captured by the imaging sensor were used to obtain quantitative colour information in three formats, namely, RGB, XYZ and CIELAB. The zoom-in feature is useful for obtaining detailed colour features of the image, while cropping of the region of interest aids in reducing the image matrix and, ultimately, the computational power required. Quantitative information on the colour value of the product (both average and region to region) can be obtained in all three formats (i.e., RGB, XYZ and CIELAB). It also gives the three closest Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) values of the product. The accuracy of the measurement system was first validated against a standard colour chart then it was tested using three image sensors of different configurations. Coefficient of determination (<i>R</i><sup>2</sup>) and root mean square error values of 0.983 and 3.391 for <i>L</i>*, 0.994 and 1.851 for <i>a</i>* and 0.996 and 2.042 for <i>b</i>*, respectively, were obtained during performance evaluation. Similarly, when different imaging sensors were used for colour determination, the colour values showed no significant variation for all tested samples (i.e., various fruits and vegetables of different chroma/hues).</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"141 5","pages":"731-739"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2025-02-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145022172","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Enhanced Deep Stacked CapsNet Ensemble Gazelle Neural Network for multi-level fabric defect classification","authors":"Hattarki Pooja, Shridevi Soma","doi":"10.1111/cote.12805","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12805","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Fabric detection in the materials industry plays a vital role in the global economy, making effective quality control measures essential to ensure product value and reduce manufacturing waste. With the rise of Industry 4.0, manufacturing companies have been striving to develop automated fabric defect detection systems to overcome the limitations of traditional manual inspection. However, because of challenges in creating highly effective fabric defect detection methods with strong noise resistance, conventional systems often struggle to capture intricate fabric details and accurately distinguish between defect types. To address these challenges, this research introduces an innovative approach called the Enhanced Deep Stacked capsNet Ensemble Gazelle Neural Network (EDSEGNN) for multi-level local and global defect classification. By incorporating the Window-aware Guided Image Filtering technique, image quality and resolution are enhanced, enabling the detection of fine fabric details. Additionally, the Wavelet Packet Transform aids in segmenting fabric defects by identifying small patterns through varying frequency waves. In the final stage, the EDSEGNN model performs local defect identification and multi-level global defect classification, distinguishing between normal and defective patterns while categorising defect types like discoloration, stains, foreign objects, cuts, holes, thread issues and metal contamination. The proposed method achieves impressive results, with a peak accuracy of 99.8%, along with high recall (99.5%) and F1-score (99%), compared with existing methods. The proposed approach offers a highly accurate and robust solution to the challenges faced by traditional fabric defect detection systems, representing a valuable advance in automated quality control for the materials industry.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"141 5","pages":"711-730"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2025-01-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145022366","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Chemical profiling and characterisation of anthraquinone-based polyphenols as biocolourants from Cortinarius semisanguineus","authors":"Arvind Negi, Peppi Toukola, Riikka Räisänen","doi":"10.1111/cote.12810","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12810","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Anthraquinone dyes are known for their significant colour (brightness of shade in the red, blue and green areas) and light fastness properties compared with other synthetic dyes (such as azo-based dyes). However, challenging multi-step synthesis of anthraquinones and limited access to fewer substituents result in insufficient reactivity, hindering their wider industrial applications. Therefore, seeking highly substituted anthraquinone-based colourants from natural sources is gaining interest among researchers. Notably, certain species of <i>Dermocybe</i> mushrooms are recognised for their red gills rich in anthraquinone colourants, which have been studied. However, limited knowledge of the chemotaxonomic characteristics of their species and molecular structure hinders wide use of their commercial applications. Our study screened extraction methods for their selectivity towards specific anthraquinone types, such as glycosidic vs non-glycosidic, or those with carboxylic acid groups vs those without. In our observation, a sequential extraction strategy, starting with aqueous buffer extract followed by acetone extract, selectively yielded carboxylic acid-containing anthraquinones and non-carboxylic acid-containing anthraquinones, respectively. We carried out a detailed analysis of anthraquinone-based colourants in <i>Cortinarius semisanguineus</i>, comparing MS<sup>1</sup>-MS<sup>2</sup> profiles with two other species of the <i>Dermocybe</i> fungus group (<i>Cortinarius sanguineus</i> and <i>Cortinarius ominosus</i>), highlighting key interspecies differences in expressing certain anthraquinones or regioisomers. This study led to the structural identification of eleven natural anthraquinones and their glycosidic forms among these species. The carboxylic anthraquinones identified and characterised by their fragmentation pattern using MS<sup>1</sup>-MS<sup>2</sup> profiles include dermolutein, dermorubin, chlorodermorubin, endocrocin and chlorodermolutein, while the non-carboxylic anthraquinones, primarily from the acetone extract, were dermoglaucin, emodin and dermocybin.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"141 6","pages":"855-888"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2025-01-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12810","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145479988","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Dyeing performance enhancement of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fabric via plasma and tannic acid treatment","authors":"Muhammad Ahmad, Guizhen Ke, Chunmei Chen","doi":"10.1111/cote.12806","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12806","url":null,"abstract":"<p>In this study, the dyeing properties of atmospheric plasma and tannic acid surface modified ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fabric were examined. The study focused on optimisation of colour strength. The effect of plasma treatment time and discharge power on colour strength was optimised. Dyeing parameters were optimised by running central composite response surface design of experiments. After dyeing, surface characteristics were observed by <i>K/S</i> (colour strength), colour fastness to soaping, scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and X-ray dispersive spectroscopy (XDS), Fourier Transform–infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, rubbing fastness and contact angles, respectively. The response surface experimental design results showed better colour strength by reducing padder pressure and increasing the curing temperature and curing time. SEM showed increased roughness of surface and tannic acid adhesion to the surface. Both XDS and FTIR spectroscopy showed increased surface polarity. Enhanced durability was displayed at 1000 W for 20 seconds of exposure and 1% TA-<span></span><math>\u0000 <mrow>\u0000 <msup>\u0000 <mi>Na</mi>\u0000 <mo>+</mo>\u0000 </msup>\u0000 </mrow></math> (w/v) for 6 hours at pH 4-5. Contact angles showed enhanced hydrophilic behaviour. Also, the rubbing fastness was good. The process had a low cost. This approach was suitable because of the higher production rate of continuous dyeing, and it was also sustainable, considering that tannic acid is a natural resource and atmospheric plasma is a waterless treatment.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"141 5","pages":"694-710"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2025-01-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145022407","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}