Crisleine Regina Hillesheim, Quethelen Elizabeth Araujo Garcez Rodrigues, Marcela Kotsuka da Silva, Carolina Krebs de Souza, Sávio Leandro Bertoli, Ivonete Oliveira Barcellos, Marcel Jefferson Gonçalves
{"title":"Study of the colouristic capacity of the natural annatto dye in dyeing polyester fabrics and recycled yarns","authors":"Crisleine Regina Hillesheim, Quethelen Elizabeth Araujo Garcez Rodrigues, Marcela Kotsuka da Silva, Carolina Krebs de Souza, Sávio Leandro Bertoli, Ivonete Oliveira Barcellos, Marcel Jefferson Gonçalves","doi":"10.1111/cote.12804","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12804","url":null,"abstract":"<p>The textile sector has been the subject of research aimed at discovering more sustainable alternatives to harmful chemicals, and coloration technologies. In this study, the colouristic capacity of the natural annatto dye was evaluated in 100% polyester (PES) fabrics and in 100% PES fabrics with recycled thread. A comparative characterisation of a dye extracted directly from annatto seeds with a commercial natural dye was also carried out. The dyeing processes were conducted with the commercial natural dye at temperatures of 105, 110 and 115°C and pH levels of 4, 4.5 and 5, following a 2<sup>2</sup> full experimental design including two axial points and triplicate in the central point. The dyed fabric samples were subjected to wash fastness and dry and wet rubbing tests, to evaluate colour quality. The results were analysed using Statistica software, and the 100% PES fabric samples with the best exhaustion values (91.9%), colour intensity (<i>K/S</i>) values (1.44) and satisfactory fastness values were dyed at a temperature of 117°C and pH of 4.5. Furthermore, samples with recycled PES yarn were dyed and compared with conventional PES yarn, demonstrating similar dye and fastness characteristics, as well as intense coloration.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"141 5","pages":"680-693"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2025-01-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145021812","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Long short-term memory model for predicting the angle-dependent reflectance distributions for glossy and matte surfaces","authors":"Shao-Tang Hung, Pei-Li Sun, Jui-Chang Chiang, Bao-Jen Pong, Hung-Shing Chen","doi":"10.1111/cote.12811","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12811","url":null,"abstract":"<p>This study introduces an innovative recurrent neural network called long short-term memory (LSTM) as a prediction model, which is used to predict angle-dependent reflectance distributions of colour samples with glossy and matte surfaces. A two-dimensional (2D) reflectance measurement system was developed to measure the angle-dependent reflectance in this study. Its structure mainly included a semicircular rotating mechanism, a high-resolution digital camera and a high-quality white light-emitting diode. A semicircular rotating mechanism was designed to rotate from 10° to 170° in the vertical direction. Two ColorGauge miniaturised colour charts with glossy and matte surfaces were selected as test chips. The test chips on ColorGauge miniaturised colour charts included fives colours of glossy white, glossy black, matte red, matte green and matte blue. The reflectance distributions of the test chips were measured by the 2D reflectance measurement system, and the measured reflectance data were used as training data in the LSTM model. In comparison with second- and third-order regressions, the mean CIE lightness difference (0.09) using the LSTM model was lower. Therefore, it was verified that the LSTM model performed well in predicting reflectance distributions. In addition, the LSTM model was also validated on the additional test samples (10 matte chromatic samples and five glossy achromatic samples). The maximum and minimum mean CIE lightness differences were 3.77 and 0.64 for matte chromatic samples, and 2.34 and 0.42 for glossy achromatic samples, respectively. The results of small prediction errors indicated that the LSTM model presents excellent prediction performance.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"141 5","pages":"665-679"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2025-01-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145022261","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Irtizah Mushtaq, Amerjeet Singh, Asif H. Sofi, P. A. Sofi, P. A. Khan, G. M. Bhat, A. R. Malik, Heena Jalal, Iqbal Jeelani, Tuybia Bilal, Benatul-Behar, Sufiya Shabir
{"title":"Enhancing pashmina fabric aesthetics: Assessing the dyeing efficacy of indigenous wild underutilised plants","authors":"Irtizah Mushtaq, Amerjeet Singh, Asif H. Sofi, P. A. Sofi, P. A. Khan, G. M. Bhat, A. R. Malik, Heena Jalal, Iqbal Jeelani, Tuybia Bilal, Benatul-Behar, Sufiya Shabir","doi":"10.1111/cote.12807","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12807","url":null,"abstract":"<p>This study explores the use of dyes extracted from <i>Berberis aristata</i> and <i>Bistorta amplexicaulis</i> for dyeing pashmina fabric. The effectiveness of these plant-derived dyes was evaluated based on colour strength, absorption efficiency and fastness properties including washing, light and rubbing. Results indicate that both <i>Berberis aristata</i> and <i>Bistorta amplexicaulis</i> dyes significantly enhance the colour quality of pashmina fabric, with simultaneous mordanting yielding the highest colour strength and fastness properties, followed by premordanting. <i>Berberis aristata</i> exhibited poor light fastness (1), but showed excellent rubbing and washing fastness (5), while <i>Bistorta amplexicaulis</i> demonstrated good light fastness (4) and (4/5), as well as excellent performance in rubbing and washing fastness (5). Dye concentrations positively impacted colour strength, with higher concentrations resulting in deeper shades. The percentage absorption of the dye into the fabric was notably high, reflecting effective dye uptake. Mordant enhanced the colour quality of the fabric because of the increased efficiency in absorption, colour strength, colour coordinates and fastness grades in terms of washing, light and rubbing, respectively. These findings suggest that dyes from <i>Berberis aristata</i> and <i>Bistorta amplexicaulis</i> are promising for textile applications, offering vibrant, durable colours and adaptable dyeing methods.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"141 5","pages":"651-664"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2025-01-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145022002","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Thermochromic paint with three-stage colour transition effect based on thermochromic microcapsules and its crosslinking modification","authors":"Jingli Tang, Yichao Wang, Mengjuan He, Liqian Huang, Xueli Wang, Jianyong Yu","doi":"10.1111/cote.12808","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12808","url":null,"abstract":"<p>To expand the colour change range of thermochromic materials, two types of thermochromic microcapsules (TCMs) with different colour change temperatures and effects were utilised to prepare a TCMs blending system exhibiting a three-stage colour transition at temperatures ranging from 10 to 60°C. Thermochromic paints were then prepared based on this TCMs blending system using a modified waterborne polyurethane (WPU). The thermochromic properties of the TCMs blending system and the impact of crosslinking modification on the coating properties were investigated. The findings revealed that the ratio of TCMs influences the colour change effect and temperature of the blending system. With temperature variations, the colour of the TCMs blending system can reversibly transition between blue, green and yellow, offering a more vibrant thermochromic effect compared with conventional thermochromic materials. The modified WPU enabled the preparation of paint from the blending system, which was applied to fabric surfaces to create multistage thermochromic fabrics. The mechanical properties, water resistance and adhesion of the modified coating were enhanced, and the colour fastness to washing of the fabrics improved by two grades. This study has practical significance for the application of TCMs and the development of colour-changing textiles.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"141 5","pages":"640-650"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2025-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145021820","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Wei Wu, Bo Fan, Qingqing Zhou, Qingyong Zhao, Yi Zhong, Hong Xu, Jian Wang, Zhiping Mao
{"title":"Influence of the relaxation behaviour of polyester molecular chains in supercritical carbon dioxide fluid on dyeing performance","authors":"Wei Wu, Bo Fan, Qingqing Zhou, Qingyong Zhao, Yi Zhong, Hong Xu, Jian Wang, Zhiping Mao","doi":"10.1111/cote.12809","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12809","url":null,"abstract":"<p>This study investigated the mechanism of dye uptake in supercritical carbon dioxide fluid (ScCO<sub>2</sub>) by examining fibre swelling and molecular chain relaxation. The swelling rate of 30 D/3 Fila polyester fibres was tested under varying temperatures and pressures using a high-temperature and high-pressure in situ imaging platform. The swelling rate increased with temperature and pressure, but the rate of increase slowed above 100°C. The Williams–Landel–Ferry equation was used to analyse the relationship between the thermal relaxation of polyester macromolecular chains and dye uptake at high pressure (27 MPa) during ScCO<sub>2</sub> dyeing. For dyes with poor solubility, dyeing behaviour above 100°C aligns closely with the free volume diffusion model. Conversely, for dyes with good solubility, dyeing behaviour follows the free volume diffusion model within the 50-100°C range and reaches equilibrium above 100°C.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"141 5","pages":"630-639"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2025-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145021751","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Zhengkai Wang, Hongjuan Zhang, Bingyu Dai, Yanliang Zhang, Jiping Wang
{"title":"Relationship between wettability of cotton and dyeing properties of reactive dyes in a non-aqueous medium system","authors":"Zhengkai Wang, Hongjuan Zhang, Bingyu Dai, Yanliang Zhang, Jiping Wang","doi":"10.1111/cote.12802","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12802","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Herein, we initially used sodium hydroxide to pretreat cotton fabric to obtain different wettability. Then the non-aqueous dyeing system was applied to the eco-friendly dyeing and washing process of cotton fibre. Meanwhile, Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectrometry and zeta potential analysis were performed to analyse the difference of cotton fibres before and after pretreatment. Furthermore, the effect of pretreatment on the adsorption behaviour was investigated by molecular dynamic (MD) simulations. Compared with control cotton, an approximate increase of 23.0% in the colour strength (<i>K/S</i>) value was achieved. Findings from FTIR and zeta potential showed that the number of available hydroxyl groups of cotton involved in the dyeing increased after pretreatment. MD simulations demonstrated reactive dye molecules showed a faster adsorption behaviour on the fibre surface with good wettability. It was attributed to the increased interaction energy between dye molecules and cotton fibres. Therefore, improving the cotton fabric's wettability is an effective way to improve the utilisation rate of reactive dyes in a non-aqueous medium dyeing system.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"141 5","pages":"621-629"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2024-12-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145021911","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
J. Jordan, T. A. de M. de Lima, M. Nugent, P. Laaksonen
{"title":"Effect of organic biocolourants on lightfastness and mechanical properties of polylactic acid","authors":"J. Jordan, T. A. de M. de Lima, M. Nugent, P. Laaksonen","doi":"10.1111/cote.12803","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12803","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Most modern colourants are acquired from petroleum-based sources or mining, which often causes environmental degradation. Consequently, alternative colouring solutions are sought, such as using biocolourants, which are organic colourants from bio-based sources. Although biocolourant research is prevalent in the textile dyeing field, biocoloration of thermoplastics remains relatively unexplored. Thus, our study presents lightfastness and mechanical properties of polylactic acid (PLA) biocoloured with biochar, kraft lignin, indigo from <i>Isatis tinctoria</i>, madder extract from <i>Rubia tinctorum</i>, and weld extract from <i>Reseda luteola</i>. Indigo, madder extract, and weld extract are common bio-based textile dyes, whereas biochar and lignin are more known as easily accessible filler additives than as colourants. Stemming from promising results with bio-based indigo in our previous studies, this study broadens the scope with new colourants and analysis methods. In this study, mixtures of biocolourant powder and PLA granules were heated to a viscous state, blended inside an injection screw, and injection moulded into plastic specimens. The PLA-biocolourant specimens were inspected with scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and subjected to ASTM D638 tensile test. Furthermore, the specimens were exposed to ISO 105-B02 lightfastness test under xenon arc light. Before and after xenon light exposure, the specimens were analysed with visual inspection, reflectance spectrophotometry, hyperspectral imaging, and Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. The results showed that most of the biocolourants produced an even colour with adequate lightfastness. Moreover, lignin, biochar, and madder extract substantially improved photodegradation resistance and tensile properties of PLA. Thus, further development of biocolourants, especially lignin, as functional PLA additives is recommended.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"141 6","pages":"921-931"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2,"publicationDate":"2024-12-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12803","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145480133","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Colour matching of cotton exhaustion dyed using reactive dye mixtures in non-aqueous siloxane media of D5","authors":"Qiushuang Hu, Liujun Pei, Kaili Jin, Shuhua Liu, Shaokun Gao, Jiping Wang","doi":"10.1111/cote.12800","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12800","url":null,"abstract":"<p>A less water dyeing system using non-aqueous medium as dyeing medium shows promising application potential due to its environmentally friendly and efficient dyeing processes, achieving high dyeing and fixation percentage of 100% and 90%, respectively. While previous studies have focused on the dyeing procedures and mechanisms of cotton dyeing in non-aqueous medium, there has been limited research on colour matching between reactive dyes. This study investigates the matching performance of the representative dyes C.I. Reactive Red 195 and C.I. Reactive Blue 19 in a novel non-aqueous dyeing system, and compares their effectiveness to that of traditional aqueous dyeing systems. The building up power of reactive dyes in different dyeing bath was studied, as well as the influence of compounding ratio and fixing temperature on dyeing performance. The results reveal that reactive dyes exhibit better building up properties in non-aqueous medium compared to traditional water bath. The colour change and matching of the reactive dyes was different between non-aqueous medium and water bath, showing noticeable variations in fixation percentage. Notably, when the ratio between Reactive Red 195 and Reactive Blue 19 was 1:1, the absorption wavelength of the blend dye in the non-aqueous medium remained stable with increasing fixation temperature, while a redshift occurred in the water bath. Overall, the colour matching performance of reactive dyes in the less water dyeing system using a non-aqueous medium is impressive, suggesting significant potential for further development in sustainable dyeing technology.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"141 4","pages":"584-596"},"PeriodicalIF":2.0,"publicationDate":"2024-11-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144589973","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The plasticisation model of dye diffusion: Part 3","authors":"Stephen M. Burkinshaw","doi":"10.1111/cote.12795","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12795","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Previously published kinetic-derived data reported for the temperature-dependent diffusional behaviour of two direct dyes and a reactive dye within both cellophane and cotton substrates, in the presence of both a constant amount and varying amounts of added inorganic electrolyte, and over a diverse range of dyeing temperatures, were re-evaluated using the Williams–Landel–Ferry equation. The experimentally observed diffusivity of the various anionic dyes within both types of cellulosic material and the structural relaxation times of the respective, water-plasticised, cellulose I and cellulose II macromolecules, were shown to be intrinsically related, thermally regulated phenomena. The plasticisation model of dye diffusion seems to offer a plausible explanation of the temperature-dependent diffusional behaviour of direct dyes and reactive dyes within cellulosic fibre/polymers in the presence of added inorganic electrolyte.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"141 4","pages":"473-486"},"PeriodicalIF":2.0,"publicationDate":"2024-11-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12795","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144589962","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Effect of PEG-400 on dyeing properties of cotton fabric in non-aqueous medium system","authors":"Hui Chen, Hongjuan Zhang, Zhengkai Wang, Jing Guo, Qun Yang, Liujun Pei, Shuaitong Liang, Kaili Jin, Jiping Wang","doi":"10.1111/cote.12801","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12801","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Traditional reactive dyeing has the technical problems of high water consumption and high pollution. In this article, the effect of polyethylene glycol 400 (PEG-400) on the dyeing properties of cotton fabrics with high concentration reactive dyes in non-aqueous medium was studied. Initially, the effects of PEG-400 on colour strength (<i>K/S</i>) and colour fastness of dyed fabric with reactive dye are systematically discussed. In addition, the effect of PEG-400 on the hydrolysis properties of reactive dyes was analysed by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). At the same time, the molecular interaction force between the dye and PEG-400 was analysed by ultraviolet-visible (UV-visible) spectroscopy. The results showed that when PEG-400 concentration was 3.0 g/L, <i>K/S</i> value of dyed fabric (5.0%, on weight of fabric, owf) was increased by 33.5%, and is much higher than dyed fabrics without PEG-400. HPLC and UV-visible analysis showed that the addition of PEG-400 effectively reduced the hydrolysis rate of dye II containing two vinyl sulfone reactive groups, which was converted from C.I. Reactive Black 5 containing contains diethylsulfone sulphate group. Its hydrolysis rate was reduced by 20.9%. PEG-400 also decreased the aggregation degree of high concentration reactive dye, and increased the solubility of reactive dye. This method has certain universality. Therefore, using PEG-400 as an additive is an effective way to improve the dye uptake of reactive dyes in non-aqueous medium dyeing system and realise cleaner production.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"141 4","pages":"572-583"},"PeriodicalIF":2.0,"publicationDate":"2024-11-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144589968","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}