Fashion and Textiles最新文献_第7页

Development of a test method for the dynamic drapability of fabrics using reciprocating motion 利用往复运动测试织物动态垂降性的方法

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-09-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00355-7

Eunbi Yun, Changsang Yun

{"title":"Development of a test method for the dynamic drapability of fabrics using reciprocating motion","authors":"Eunbi Yun, Changsang Yun","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00355-7","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00355-7","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>This study aimed to develop a method for measuring the dynamic drapability of fabrics using a reciprocating motion device that mimics the movement created by shaking a piece of fabric. Five types of fabrics were selected based on their drape coefficients and weights, and the lengths of fabrics were determined based on skirt length (50 cm) and dress length (100 cm). The width and speed of the reciprocating motion were considered as the experimental variables. Results of reciprocating motion-based fabric movement analysis revealed that the number of nodes, the position of the first node, amplitude, total length, and area are significant factors for measuring dynamic drapability. It was found that the longer fabrics had more nodes, enabling measurement of various types of fabrics. Furthermore, it was found that a wider reciprocation width under the same speed and a faster reciprocation speed with the same width favorably demonstrated dynamic drapability, resulting in proportionality between the reciprocating motion and the force transmitted to the fabric. Movement analysis of seven selected conditions and additional samples showed that the optimal condition was a 100-mm reciprocation width and a 150-rpm speed and that the first node’s position is the most significant factor for a dynamic drapability. To verify the proposed measurement method, measuring four pairs of fabrics with similar drape coefficients but different shapes showed that as fabric weight increased, the node moved downward, despite similar drape coefficient values. This confirms that the proposed method can overcome the limitations of the existing drape coefficient.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-09-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00355-7","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"134878414","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Cycling knee brace design analysis using 3D virtual clothing program to assess clothing pressure distribution and variance 利用三维虚拟服装程序分析自行车护膝设计，评估服装压力分布和方差

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-09-18 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00354-8

Hee Young Kim, Kyung Wha Oh

{"title":"Cycling knee brace design analysis using 3D virtual clothing program to assess clothing pressure distribution and variance","authors":"Hee Young Kim, Kyung Wha Oh","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00354-8","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00354-8","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>This study analyzed the functional design by investigating the distribution of clothing pressure of cycling knee brace using a three-dimensional virtual clothing program. Based on the average body size of Korean men in their 40 s, clothing pressure in wearing and cycling condition were collected on five knee brace products. According to the results, bonding fabric products had a high possibility of increasing inconvenience, as they had a higher clothing pressure at all measurement points and soared in motion application. It could be adjusted differently depending on the location by mixing materials or using details, so the design with thick pile fabric or velcro strap fastening added more pressure to the lower part of the knee. The length and circumference size also affected the clothing pressure. The design with tight upper and lower circumference pressured excessively the legs and rolled up and clumped together, while the one with loose lower circumference lacked the sufficient strength to support the knees. Also, the design with a curved outline due to the difference in the length of the front and back, increased the clothing pressure on the lower thigh or the upper calf. Therefore, the functional design of cycling knee braces requires comprehensive consideration of material thickness and structure, detailed size of length and circumference, fastening details, to reduce the pressure at the center and top of the knee and to support the lower part with proper pressure, as reflecting the pressure on the body location that come into contact during the motion.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-09-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00354-8","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"134797266","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

"We are watching you": investigation of consumer-employee perception gaps and the employee expectations-employer performance gaps “我们在看着你”:调查消费者-员工认知差距和员工期望-雇主绩效差距

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-09-15 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00353-9

Stacy H. Lee, Sojin Jung, Jung Ha-Brookshire

{"title":"\"We are watching you\": investigation of consumer-employee perception gaps and the employee expectations-employer performance gaps","authors":"Stacy H. Lee, Sojin Jung, Jung Ha-Brookshire","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00353-9","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00353-9","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>Based on the social contract theory and social exchange theories, this study examined the Corporations’ social responsibility (CSR) gaps perceived by fashion firms’ internal (i.e., employees) and external (i.e., consumers) stakeholders. In addition, to more deeply understand employees’ perspectives, this study empirically measured the CSR performance gap between employees’ expectations for the CSR standards the industry should achieve and employees’ perceptions of their employers’ CSR performance. This study then explored how the extent of negative incongruence (i.e., when the employer’s CSR performance does not meet the employee’s CSR standards) influenced employees’ attitudes and behaviors with the moderating role of the employees’ work experience. For this, we selected two global fashion firms: H&M and Nike. Through an online survey, 865 usable responses were collected (H&M retail employee n = 158, consumer n = 275; Nike retail employee n = 157, consumers n = 275). One-way Analysis of Variance and a post hoc test showed that the consumer groups for H&M and Nike indicated significantly lower levels of CSR perceptions than those of the employees of each brand. Moreover, the results of structural equation modeling revealed that negative incongruence between the expected industry standard and perceptions of the firm's performance in the area of CSR discouraged organizational commitment, which in turn decreased organizational citizenship behavior and increased turnover intentions. The moderating effect of work experiencewas not found. The originality of this study is that it quantitatively examined both internal and external stakeholders’ CSR perceptions and employees’ CSR perception gaps. The findings provide valuable academic and managerial implications.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-09-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00353-9","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"134796319","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Multidimensional analysis for fabric drapability 织物悬垂性的多维分析

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-09-05 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00352-w

Bona Shin, Changsang Yun

{"title":"Multidimensional analysis for fabric drapability","authors":"Bona Shin, Changsang Yun","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00352-w","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00352-w","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>This study analyzed fabric drapability in one, two, and three dimensions to provide an assessment method reflecting real conditions. One-dimensional analysis of drapability involved observing the fabric movement by reciprocating motion. The movement appeared differently depending on the fabric characteristics, and the shape and location of the node showed differently, which were considered to be influenced by the weight of the sample along with the drape coefficient. Two-dimensional analysis identified the significant factors for the drape information. This examination confirmed that, even if drape factors were similar, differences in draped shape were observed based on the factors related to node shapes. Three-dimensional analysis, using a 3D scanner, involved the use of the mean distances between draped samples and the standard truncated cone, their standard deviation, and the coefficient of variation. The coefficient of variation was high in the groups wherein the shape of the drape was irregular. In the 3D analysis, the distances between samples and the standard truncated cone were expressed in colors to intuitively deliver the drape information. To determine a factor that could indicate drapability among the factors derived from each dimension, the existing drape coefficient was employed for correlation analysis. Three pairs of samples with similar drape coefficients but different drape shapes were selected to verify the above results. In conclusion, one-dimensional node location, two-dimensional standard deviation of node severity, and three-dimensional coefficient of variation were shown to effectively demonstrate the drape characteristic that the drape coefficient could not indicate.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-09-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00352-w","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43036489","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Development of human-touch smart armband for tele-haptic communication using a fabric-based soft pneumatic actuator 基于织物的软气动执行器开发用于远程触觉通信的人触摸智能臂章

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-08-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00350-y

Hanna Choi, Shinjung Yoo

{"title":"Development of human-touch smart armband for tele-haptic communication using a fabric-based soft pneumatic actuator","authors":"Hanna Choi, Shinjung Yoo","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00350-y","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00350-y","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>This study aimed to develop a human-touch smart armband that can transport emotional tactile stimuli to individuals in distant places. To simulate human touch stimuli, a soft pneumatic actuator (SPA) which we refer to in this study as “SPA touch,” of size 7 cm × 7 cm and thickness 0.3 cm was designed using fabric and silicone with nine touch points, which can be individually inflated and allocated within the actuator. The use of thermoplastic polyurethane-coated fabric as a backing material helps obtain one-side inflation toward the skin effectively. By controlling the position and duration time of the inflation of the nine touch points, three basic touch modes (“Touch,” “Double touch,” and “Drag”) and three emotional tactile gestures (“Patting,” “Hugging,” and “Caressing”) were programmed using Python. The evaluation of the operating performance of the basic touch modes and emotional tactile gestures showed that “SPA touch” could properly create and transmit touch stimulation remotely. The human-touch smart armband developed in the process of this study can be used for novel tele-haptic communication with individuals in distant places, such as nursing homes.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-08-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00350-y","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45978225","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Characterization of embroidered textile-based electrode for EMG smart wear according to stitch technique 基于针法的绣花织物电肌电智能佩戴电极的表征

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-08-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00351-x

Hyelim Kim, Soohyeon Rho, Daeyoung Lim, Wonyoung Jeong

{"title":"Characterization of embroidered textile-based electrode for EMG smart wear according to stitch technique","authors":"Hyelim Kim, Soohyeon Rho, Daeyoung Lim, Wonyoung Jeong","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00351-x","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00351-x","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>This study fabricated and evaluated the textile-type electrodes for application to smartwear that can measure surface electromyography(sEMG). It was manufactured by lock stitch(LS) and moss stitch(MS), and the stitch distance was prepared as 1, 2, or 3 mm. The surface and compression property was measured by using the Kawabata evaluation system, and the sheet resistance and skin-electrode impedance were analyzed. The coefficient of friction(MIU) of the MS was larger than that of the LS. On the other hand, the geometrical roughness(SMD) showed a smaller value. When the same load was applied, the compressive range of the MS was larger than the LS. When it was manufactured as a leg sleeve and worn, the conductive path could be increased as the loops made of conductive yarn become flat as the loops adhere to the skin by the pressure of clothing. Accordingly, the skin-electrode impedance decreased by increasing the area in contact with the skin. As the results of the RMS(root-mean-square), the LS was higher than the MS in a stable. Nevertheless, the SNR(signal-to-noise ratio) value was lower than that of the MS because movement generated noise during operation. Therefore, more stable signal acquisition is possible when applying MS. It is expected that could be applied to producing smartwear for sEMG measurements with superior sEMG signal acquisition performance while having a softer touch and flexibility.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-08-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00351-x","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42273569","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 2

Issues of virtual fashion influencers’ reproduced bodies: a qualitative analysis based on body discourse 虚拟时尚网红复制身体的问题:基于身体话语的定性分析

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-08-15 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00349-5

Yeongyo Shin, Selee Lee

{"title":"Issues of virtual fashion influencers’ reproduced bodies: a qualitative analysis based on body discourse","authors":"Yeongyo Shin, Selee Lee","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00349-5","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00349-5","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>A recent development in the fashion industry, where digital transformation has accelerated, has been the birth and rise of virtual fashion influencers. With their close imitation of the human body and how active they are on social media, their influence on the fashion industry is gradually growing. The purpose of this study is to explore the trends in the activities of virtual fashion influencers and to determine the main issues in their body representation by identifying the types and current status of their reproduced bodies. One hundred and fifteen virtual fashion influencers who are active in the global fashion industry were selected as the research subjects and observed with a focus on their body reproduction. Our qualitative analysis is based on Rosi Braidotti’s theory on posthumans’ existence and body of subjectivity formation discourse. Based on the above theories, these reproduced bodies can suggest the following issues related to the risks of modern society: (1) the reproduction of standardized stereotypes, (2) the expression of the male gaze, power, and desire, and (3) colonial gender hierarchy.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-08-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00349-5","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41839536","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1

Innovativeness in tradition: a comparative study of traditional leather armor scales and modern materials 传统的创新:传统皮甲鳞片与现代材料的比较研究

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-08-05 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00341-z

Taehoon Kim, Jinyoung Hwang, Ga Young Park, Min Wook Lee

引用次数: 0

Differences in foot shape when wearing wedge-heeled shoes with elevated forefoot height and heel height 穿坡跟鞋时脚型的差异，前足高度和鞋跟高度升高

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-07-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00347-7

Ao Zhu, Yu-Chi Lee

{"title":"Differences in foot shape when wearing wedge-heeled shoes with elevated forefoot height and heel height","authors":"Ao Zhu, Yu-Chi Lee","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00347-7","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00347-7","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>Wedge-heeled shoes, which are formed by elevating both the forefoot and heel, have been popular among young women. However, research on the foot shape in wedge-heeled shoes is lacking. This study aimed to access the effects of forefoot height (10, 20, and 30 mm) and heel height (30, 50, 70, and 90 mm) on foot shape and perceived comfort when wearing wedge-heeled shoes. Three-dimensional (3D) foot scanning was performed on 35 females and the 14 foot dimensions were measured. Increased forefoot height generated larger lengths (foot, ball and out ball), smaller girths (ball and instep) and heights (instep and navicular) (<i>p</i> < 0.05). Thus, when the forefoot height increased, the foot became longer, slimmer and flatter. Moreover, elevated heel height resulted in larger dimensions for girths (ball and instep), heights (instep and navicular), and smaller dimensions for lengths (foot, ball and out ball), widths (diagonal and horizontal) and toe 5 angles of the foot (<i>p</i> < 0.01). That means shorter, narrower and more convex foot shapes were observed when heel height increased. Subjective measurements implied that increased forefoot height significantly enhanced perceived comfort, whereas increased heel height diminished comfort. It was found that forefoot elevation could result in less deformation and discomfort which accompanied heel elevation, especially in the low heel-toe drop combinations (10 × 30 and 20 × 30 mm). The findings provide valuable references for enhancing shoe fitting and comfort for wedge-heeled shoes by providing dimensional data on the toe, ball, arch and instep regions.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00347-7","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"4969170","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Shape recovery properties of 3D printed re-entrant strip using shape memory thermoplastic polyurethane filaments with various temperature conditions 形状记忆型热塑性聚氨酯长丝在不同温度条件下3D打印可入式长条的形状恢复性能

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-07-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00348-6

Imjoo Jung, Sunhee Lee

{"title":"Shape recovery properties of 3D printed re-entrant strip using shape memory thermoplastic polyurethane filaments with various temperature conditions","authors":"Imjoo Jung, Sunhee Lee","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00348-6","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00348-6","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>In this research, to confirm the applicability as the actuator of the re-entrant (RE) structure strip using 3D printing with shape memory thermoplastic polyurethane material, two types of 3D printing infill conditions and five extension temperature conditions were applied. REstrip was analyzed through differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), tensile properties, Poisson’s ratio properties, and shape recovery properties according to temperature conditions. The DSC results showed that the glass transition temperature peaks of the SMTPU filament and the 3D printed REstrip were in the range of about 30–60 °C. In terms of tensile properties, the initial modulus, maximum stress, and yield stress of REstrip all decreased, while the elongation at break increased with increasing extension temperature. In terms of Poisson’s ratio, it was confirmed that as the extension temperature rises, Poisson’s ratio shows a positive value at a lower elongation, and the deformation is best at 50 °C. As a result of the shape memory property, the shape recovery ratio tended to decrease as the tensile deformation temperature increased.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00348-6","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"4970739","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0