Fashion and Textiles最新文献_第7页

Multidimensional analysis for fabric drapability 织物悬垂性的多维分析

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-09-05 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00352-w

Bona Shin, Changsang Yun

{"title":"Multidimensional analysis for fabric drapability","authors":"Bona Shin, Changsang Yun","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00352-w","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00352-w","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>This study analyzed fabric drapability in one, two, and three dimensions to provide an assessment method reflecting real conditions. One-dimensional analysis of drapability involved observing the fabric movement by reciprocating motion. The movement appeared differently depending on the fabric characteristics, and the shape and location of the node showed differently, which were considered to be influenced by the weight of the sample along with the drape coefficient. Two-dimensional analysis identified the significant factors for the drape information. This examination confirmed that, even if drape factors were similar, differences in draped shape were observed based on the factors related to node shapes. Three-dimensional analysis, using a 3D scanner, involved the use of the mean distances between draped samples and the standard truncated cone, their standard deviation, and the coefficient of variation. The coefficient of variation was high in the groups wherein the shape of the drape was irregular. In the 3D analysis, the distances between samples and the standard truncated cone were expressed in colors to intuitively deliver the drape information. To determine a factor that could indicate drapability among the factors derived from each dimension, the existing drape coefficient was employed for correlation analysis. Three pairs of samples with similar drape coefficients but different drape shapes were selected to verify the above results. In conclusion, one-dimensional node location, two-dimensional standard deviation of node severity, and three-dimensional coefficient of variation were shown to effectively demonstrate the drape characteristic that the drape coefficient could not indicate.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-09-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00352-w","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43036489","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Development of human-touch smart armband for tele-haptic communication using a fabric-based soft pneumatic actuator 基于织物的软气动执行器开发用于远程触觉通信的人触摸智能臂章

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-08-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00350-y

Hanna Choi, Shinjung Yoo

{"title":"Development of human-touch smart armband for tele-haptic communication using a fabric-based soft pneumatic actuator","authors":"Hanna Choi, Shinjung Yoo","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00350-y","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00350-y","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>This study aimed to develop a human-touch smart armband that can transport emotional tactile stimuli to individuals in distant places. To simulate human touch stimuli, a soft pneumatic actuator (SPA) which we refer to in this study as “SPA touch,” of size 7 cm × 7 cm and thickness 0.3 cm was designed using fabric and silicone with nine touch points, which can be individually inflated and allocated within the actuator. The use of thermoplastic polyurethane-coated fabric as a backing material helps obtain one-side inflation toward the skin effectively. By controlling the position and duration time of the inflation of the nine touch points, three basic touch modes (“Touch,” “Double touch,” and “Drag”) and three emotional tactile gestures (“Patting,” “Hugging,” and “Caressing”) were programmed using Python. The evaluation of the operating performance of the basic touch modes and emotional tactile gestures showed that “SPA touch” could properly create and transmit touch stimulation remotely. The human-touch smart armband developed in the process of this study can be used for novel tele-haptic communication with individuals in distant places, such as nursing homes.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-08-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00350-y","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45978225","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Characterization of embroidered textile-based electrode for EMG smart wear according to stitch technique 基于针法的绣花织物电肌电智能佩戴电极的表征

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-08-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00351-x

Hyelim Kim, Soohyeon Rho, Daeyoung Lim, Wonyoung Jeong

{"title":"Characterization of embroidered textile-based electrode for EMG smart wear according to stitch technique","authors":"Hyelim Kim, Soohyeon Rho, Daeyoung Lim, Wonyoung Jeong","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00351-x","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00351-x","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>This study fabricated and evaluated the textile-type electrodes for application to smartwear that can measure surface electromyography(sEMG). It was manufactured by lock stitch(LS) and moss stitch(MS), and the stitch distance was prepared as 1, 2, or 3 mm. The surface and compression property was measured by using the Kawabata evaluation system, and the sheet resistance and skin-electrode impedance were analyzed. The coefficient of friction(MIU) of the MS was larger than that of the LS. On the other hand, the geometrical roughness(SMD) showed a smaller value. When the same load was applied, the compressive range of the MS was larger than the LS. When it was manufactured as a leg sleeve and worn, the conductive path could be increased as the loops made of conductive yarn become flat as the loops adhere to the skin by the pressure of clothing. Accordingly, the skin-electrode impedance decreased by increasing the area in contact with the skin. As the results of the RMS(root-mean-square), the LS was higher than the MS in a stable. Nevertheless, the SNR(signal-to-noise ratio) value was lower than that of the MS because movement generated noise during operation. Therefore, more stable signal acquisition is possible when applying MS. It is expected that could be applied to producing smartwear for sEMG measurements with superior sEMG signal acquisition performance while having a softer touch and flexibility.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-08-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00351-x","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42273569","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 2

Issues of virtual fashion influencers’ reproduced bodies: a qualitative analysis based on body discourse 虚拟时尚网红复制身体的问题:基于身体话语的定性分析

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-08-15 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00349-5

Yeongyo Shin, Selee Lee

{"title":"Issues of virtual fashion influencers’ reproduced bodies: a qualitative analysis based on body discourse","authors":"Yeongyo Shin, Selee Lee","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00349-5","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00349-5","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>A recent development in the fashion industry, where digital transformation has accelerated, has been the birth and rise of virtual fashion influencers. With their close imitation of the human body and how active they are on social media, their influence on the fashion industry is gradually growing. The purpose of this study is to explore the trends in the activities of virtual fashion influencers and to determine the main issues in their body representation by identifying the types and current status of their reproduced bodies. One hundred and fifteen virtual fashion influencers who are active in the global fashion industry were selected as the research subjects and observed with a focus on their body reproduction. Our qualitative analysis is based on Rosi Braidotti’s theory on posthumans’ existence and body of subjectivity formation discourse. Based on the above theories, these reproduced bodies can suggest the following issues related to the risks of modern society: (1) the reproduction of standardized stereotypes, (2) the expression of the male gaze, power, and desire, and (3) colonial gender hierarchy.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-08-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00349-5","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41839536","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1

Innovativeness in tradition: a comparative study of traditional leather armor scales and modern materials 传统的创新:传统皮甲鳞片与现代材料的比较研究

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-08-05 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00341-z

Taehoon Kim, Jinyoung Hwang, Ga Young Park, Min Wook Lee

引用次数: 0

Differences in foot shape when wearing wedge-heeled shoes with elevated forefoot height and heel height 穿坡跟鞋时脚型的差异，前足高度和鞋跟高度升高

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-07-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00347-7

Ao Zhu, Yu-Chi Lee

{"title":"Differences in foot shape when wearing wedge-heeled shoes with elevated forefoot height and heel height","authors":"Ao Zhu, Yu-Chi Lee","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00347-7","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00347-7","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>Wedge-heeled shoes, which are formed by elevating both the forefoot and heel, have been popular among young women. However, research on the foot shape in wedge-heeled shoes is lacking. This study aimed to access the effects of forefoot height (10, 20, and 30 mm) and heel height (30, 50, 70, and 90 mm) on foot shape and perceived comfort when wearing wedge-heeled shoes. Three-dimensional (3D) foot scanning was performed on 35 females and the 14 foot dimensions were measured. Increased forefoot height generated larger lengths (foot, ball and out ball), smaller girths (ball and instep) and heights (instep and navicular) (<i>p</i> < 0.05). Thus, when the forefoot height increased, the foot became longer, slimmer and flatter. Moreover, elevated heel height resulted in larger dimensions for girths (ball and instep), heights (instep and navicular), and smaller dimensions for lengths (foot, ball and out ball), widths (diagonal and horizontal) and toe 5 angles of the foot (<i>p</i> < 0.01). That means shorter, narrower and more convex foot shapes were observed when heel height increased. Subjective measurements implied that increased forefoot height significantly enhanced perceived comfort, whereas increased heel height diminished comfort. It was found that forefoot elevation could result in less deformation and discomfort which accompanied heel elevation, especially in the low heel-toe drop combinations (10 × 30 and 20 × 30 mm). The findings provide valuable references for enhancing shoe fitting and comfort for wedge-heeled shoes by providing dimensional data on the toe, ball, arch and instep regions.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00347-7","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"4969170","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Shape recovery properties of 3D printed re-entrant strip using shape memory thermoplastic polyurethane filaments with various temperature conditions 形状记忆型热塑性聚氨酯长丝在不同温度条件下3D打印可入式长条的形状恢复性能

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-07-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00348-6

Imjoo Jung, Sunhee Lee

{"title":"Shape recovery properties of 3D printed re-entrant strip using shape memory thermoplastic polyurethane filaments with various temperature conditions","authors":"Imjoo Jung, Sunhee Lee","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00348-6","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00348-6","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>In this research, to confirm the applicability as the actuator of the re-entrant (RE) structure strip using 3D printing with shape memory thermoplastic polyurethane material, two types of 3D printing infill conditions and five extension temperature conditions were applied. REstrip was analyzed through differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), tensile properties, Poisson’s ratio properties, and shape recovery properties according to temperature conditions. The DSC results showed that the glass transition temperature peaks of the SMTPU filament and the 3D printed REstrip were in the range of about 30–60 °C. In terms of tensile properties, the initial modulus, maximum stress, and yield stress of REstrip all decreased, while the elongation at break increased with increasing extension temperature. In terms of Poisson’s ratio, it was confirmed that as the extension temperature rises, Poisson’s ratio shows a positive value at a lower elongation, and the deformation is best at 50 °C. As a result of the shape memory property, the shape recovery ratio tended to decrease as the tensile deformation temperature increased.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00348-6","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"4970739","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Innovativeness in tradition: a study on the physical performance of leather scale armors during the Joseon Dynasty 传统的革新:朝鲜时代皮革鳞甲的物理性能研究

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-07-15 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00344-w

Ga Young Park, Han Bi Lee, Yuree Oh, Jung Ah Lim, Min Wook Lee

{"title":"Innovativeness in tradition: a study on the physical performance of leather scale armors during the Joseon Dynasty","authors":"Ga Young Park, Han Bi Lee, Yuree Oh, Jung Ah Lim, Min Wook Lee","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00344-w","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00344-w","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>During the Joseon Dynasty, light and convenient leather armors were developed to replace metal armors, which were heavy and difficult to manufacture. Leather armors allowed easy movement of the troops and, because arrows were the primary weapons at the time, provided them with protection. The excellent performance of leather armors can be attributed to their materials and manufacturing method. The scales of the leather armor relics are prepared by layering animal skins, attaching them with natural glue, and then coating their outer surface with lacquer. The lacquer extracted from the lacquer (Ott) tree is an excellent material with high strength, waterproofing and antiseptic properties, insect repellency, heat resistance, as well as chemical resistance. The superior performance of the leather scale was reported in old scripts; however, it has not been proven through scientific analysis and testing. Therefore, in this study, the physical and mechanical properties, impact resistance, and anti-stab performance of leather scales manufactured following the traditional method were investigated. The results confirmed the excellent protection, impact resistance, and mechanical properties of the leather specimens glued with fish glue and coated with lacquer compared to those of specimens glued with synthetic glue and uncoated specimens glued with fish glue. This study reveals the excellent properties of fish glue and lacquer, which enable them to be used in various industries.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-07-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00344-w","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"4609586","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

The development of dress forms in standing and sitting postures using 3D body scanning and printing 利用3D人体扫描和打印技术开发站姿和坐姿的服装造型

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-07-05 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00343-x

Minji Yu, Dong-Eun Kim

{"title":"The development of dress forms in standing and sitting postures using 3D body scanning and printing","authors":"Minji Yu, Dong-Eun Kim","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00343-x","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00343-x","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>3D body scanning and printing are attracting attention as innovative technologies for producing dress forms. While designing dress forms, the shape of the human body must be accurately reflected in the different postures. This study explored the development of dress forms as a tool to understand changes in body size and shape according to postures and reflect this information to design and fit evaluation in the apparel industry. The holistic development process of dress forms in standing and sitting postures was suggested for representing the body shape of a specific target group. The average shape of middle-aged Korean women was derived by analyzing the 6th Size Korea data. A representative participant whose dimensions were closest to the average size was selected among recruited participants for the dress form development. The body data were acquired with a portable 3D scanner and corresponding dress forms and accessories were modeled using 3D CAD software. The models were inspected and corrected through prototyping. Full-size dress forms in standing and sitting postures were printed using a fused deposition modeling (FDM) 3D printer and post-processed. Completed dress forms were body-scanned and their accuracy was evaluated through morphological similarity comparison, cross-sectional image comparison, surface area and volume comparison, and mesh deviation analysis. Although there were some minor differences caused by the modeling process, the developed dress forms reflected the main characteristics and shapes of the representative body satisfactorily.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-07-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00343-x","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"4548457","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Analyzing visual behavior of consumers in a virtual reality fashion store using eye tracking 利用眼动追踪技术分析虚拟现实时装店中消费者的视觉行为

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-06-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00345-9

Ju Yeun Jang

引用次数: 0