Fashion and Textiles最新文献_第7页

Issues of virtual fashion influencers’ reproduced bodies: a qualitative analysis based on body discourse 虚拟时尚网红复制身体的问题:基于身体话语的定性分析

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-08-15 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00349-5

Yeongyo Shin, Selee Lee

{"title":"Issues of virtual fashion influencers’ reproduced bodies: a qualitative analysis based on body discourse","authors":"Yeongyo Shin, Selee Lee","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00349-5","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00349-5","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>A recent development in the fashion industry, where digital transformation has accelerated, has been the birth and rise of virtual fashion influencers. With their close imitation of the human body and how active they are on social media, their influence on the fashion industry is gradually growing. The purpose of this study is to explore the trends in the activities of virtual fashion influencers and to determine the main issues in their body representation by identifying the types and current status of their reproduced bodies. One hundred and fifteen virtual fashion influencers who are active in the global fashion industry were selected as the research subjects and observed with a focus on their body reproduction. Our qualitative analysis is based on Rosi Braidotti’s theory on posthumans’ existence and body of subjectivity formation discourse. Based on the above theories, these reproduced bodies can suggest the following issues related to the risks of modern society: (1) the reproduction of standardized stereotypes, (2) the expression of the male gaze, power, and desire, and (3) colonial gender hierarchy.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-08-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00349-5","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41839536","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1

Innovativeness in tradition: a comparative study of traditional leather armor scales and modern materials 传统的创新:传统皮甲鳞片与现代材料的比较研究

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-08-05 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00341-z

Taehoon Kim, Jinyoung Hwang, Ga Young Park, Min Wook Lee

引用次数: 0

Differences in foot shape when wearing wedge-heeled shoes with elevated forefoot height and heel height 穿坡跟鞋时脚型的差异，前足高度和鞋跟高度升高

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-07-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00347-7

Ao Zhu, Yu-Chi Lee

{"title":"Differences in foot shape when wearing wedge-heeled shoes with elevated forefoot height and heel height","authors":"Ao Zhu, Yu-Chi Lee","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00347-7","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00347-7","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>Wedge-heeled shoes, which are formed by elevating both the forefoot and heel, have been popular among young women. However, research on the foot shape in wedge-heeled shoes is lacking. This study aimed to access the effects of forefoot height (10, 20, and 30 mm) and heel height (30, 50, 70, and 90 mm) on foot shape and perceived comfort when wearing wedge-heeled shoes. Three-dimensional (3D) foot scanning was performed on 35 females and the 14 foot dimensions were measured. Increased forefoot height generated larger lengths (foot, ball and out ball), smaller girths (ball and instep) and heights (instep and navicular) (<i>p</i> < 0.05). Thus, when the forefoot height increased, the foot became longer, slimmer and flatter. Moreover, elevated heel height resulted in larger dimensions for girths (ball and instep), heights (instep and navicular), and smaller dimensions for lengths (foot, ball and out ball), widths (diagonal and horizontal) and toe 5 angles of the foot (<i>p</i> < 0.01). That means shorter, narrower and more convex foot shapes were observed when heel height increased. Subjective measurements implied that increased forefoot height significantly enhanced perceived comfort, whereas increased heel height diminished comfort. It was found that forefoot elevation could result in less deformation and discomfort which accompanied heel elevation, especially in the low heel-toe drop combinations (10 × 30 and 20 × 30 mm). The findings provide valuable references for enhancing shoe fitting and comfort for wedge-heeled shoes by providing dimensional data on the toe, ball, arch and instep regions.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00347-7","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"4969170","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Shape recovery properties of 3D printed re-entrant strip using shape memory thermoplastic polyurethane filaments with various temperature conditions 形状记忆型热塑性聚氨酯长丝在不同温度条件下3D打印可入式长条的形状恢复性能

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-07-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00348-6

Imjoo Jung, Sunhee Lee

{"title":"Shape recovery properties of 3D printed re-entrant strip using shape memory thermoplastic polyurethane filaments with various temperature conditions","authors":"Imjoo Jung, Sunhee Lee","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00348-6","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00348-6","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>In this research, to confirm the applicability as the actuator of the re-entrant (RE) structure strip using 3D printing with shape memory thermoplastic polyurethane material, two types of 3D printing infill conditions and five extension temperature conditions were applied. REstrip was analyzed through differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), tensile properties, Poisson’s ratio properties, and shape recovery properties according to temperature conditions. The DSC results showed that the glass transition temperature peaks of the SMTPU filament and the 3D printed REstrip were in the range of about 30–60 °C. In terms of tensile properties, the initial modulus, maximum stress, and yield stress of REstrip all decreased, while the elongation at break increased with increasing extension temperature. In terms of Poisson’s ratio, it was confirmed that as the extension temperature rises, Poisson’s ratio shows a positive value at a lower elongation, and the deformation is best at 50 °C. As a result of the shape memory property, the shape recovery ratio tended to decrease as the tensile deformation temperature increased.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00348-6","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"4970739","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Innovativeness in tradition: a study on the physical performance of leather scale armors during the Joseon Dynasty 传统的革新:朝鲜时代皮革鳞甲的物理性能研究

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-07-15 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00344-w

Ga Young Park, Han Bi Lee, Yuree Oh, Jung Ah Lim, Min Wook Lee

{"title":"Innovativeness in tradition: a study on the physical performance of leather scale armors during the Joseon Dynasty","authors":"Ga Young Park, Han Bi Lee, Yuree Oh, Jung Ah Lim, Min Wook Lee","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00344-w","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00344-w","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>During the Joseon Dynasty, light and convenient leather armors were developed to replace metal armors, which were heavy and difficult to manufacture. Leather armors allowed easy movement of the troops and, because arrows were the primary weapons at the time, provided them with protection. The excellent performance of leather armors can be attributed to their materials and manufacturing method. The scales of the leather armor relics are prepared by layering animal skins, attaching them with natural glue, and then coating their outer surface with lacquer. The lacquer extracted from the lacquer (Ott) tree is an excellent material with high strength, waterproofing and antiseptic properties, insect repellency, heat resistance, as well as chemical resistance. The superior performance of the leather scale was reported in old scripts; however, it has not been proven through scientific analysis and testing. Therefore, in this study, the physical and mechanical properties, impact resistance, and anti-stab performance of leather scales manufactured following the traditional method were investigated. The results confirmed the excellent protection, impact resistance, and mechanical properties of the leather specimens glued with fish glue and coated with lacquer compared to those of specimens glued with synthetic glue and uncoated specimens glued with fish glue. This study reveals the excellent properties of fish glue and lacquer, which enable them to be used in various industries.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-07-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00344-w","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"4609586","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

The development of dress forms in standing and sitting postures using 3D body scanning and printing 利用3D人体扫描和打印技术开发站姿和坐姿的服装造型

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-07-05 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00343-x

Minji Yu, Dong-Eun Kim

{"title":"The development of dress forms in standing and sitting postures using 3D body scanning and printing","authors":"Minji Yu, Dong-Eun Kim","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00343-x","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00343-x","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>3D body scanning and printing are attracting attention as innovative technologies for producing dress forms. While designing dress forms, the shape of the human body must be accurately reflected in the different postures. This study explored the development of dress forms as a tool to understand changes in body size and shape according to postures and reflect this information to design and fit evaluation in the apparel industry. The holistic development process of dress forms in standing and sitting postures was suggested for representing the body shape of a specific target group. The average shape of middle-aged Korean women was derived by analyzing the 6th Size Korea data. A representative participant whose dimensions were closest to the average size was selected among recruited participants for the dress form development. The body data were acquired with a portable 3D scanner and corresponding dress forms and accessories were modeled using 3D CAD software. The models were inspected and corrected through prototyping. Full-size dress forms in standing and sitting postures were printed using a fused deposition modeling (FDM) 3D printer and post-processed. Completed dress forms were body-scanned and their accuracy was evaluated through morphological similarity comparison, cross-sectional image comparison, surface area and volume comparison, and mesh deviation analysis. Although there were some minor differences caused by the modeling process, the developed dress forms reflected the main characteristics and shapes of the representative body satisfactorily.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-07-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00343-x","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"4548457","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Analyzing visual behavior of consumers in a virtual reality fashion store using eye tracking 利用眼动追踪技术分析虚拟现实时装店中消费者的视觉行为

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-06-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00345-9

Ju Yeun Jang

引用次数: 0

Development of digitized evaluation methods for fabric shrinkage and damage using image analysis 基于图像分析的织物收缩损伤数字化评价方法的发展

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-06-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00346-8

Eunbi Yun, Sungmin Kim, Changsang Yun

{"title":"Development of digitized evaluation methods for fabric shrinkage and damage using image analysis","authors":"Eunbi Yun, Sungmin Kim, Changsang Yun","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00346-8","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00346-8","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>The aim of this study is to develop digitalized evaluation methods for fabric shrinkage and damage using image analysis. To develop the shrinkage assessment method, 81 grid dots (nine horizontal lines and nine vertical lines) are introduced into the test fabric. This allows the shrinkage to be verified based on the change in distance between neighboring dots, which not only presents the shrinkage in the warp and weft directions, but also the area shrinkage and skewness. The developed evaluation method yields a value that differs from the actual measured value by less than 1 mm, which confirms its significance. To develop a damage evaluation method using the Original Danish MA test fabric, the change in area caused by loosening threads in five holes is evaluated. The area change in the developed method and the number of loosened threads in the conventional method has a high correlation. Comparing the number of dots in the Poka-Dot test fabric before and after washing enables one to distinguish incorrectly created dots during the manufacturing process and to accurately measure the number of missing dots such that the result is similar to the actual measurement. The accuracy and reproducibility of the developed measurement method are confirmed using various verification such as error rate, washing cycle, and washing time. Digitizing the evaluation method can contribute to the digital transformation of apparel quality evaluation by reducing labor and errors between evaluators.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-06-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00346-8","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"4973562","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Recycling of cotton apparel waste and its utilization as a thermal insulation layer in high performance clothing 棉质服装废弃物的回收利用及其在高性能服装保温层中的应用

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-06-15 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00342-y

M. A. Rahman Bhuiyan, Ayub Ali, Md. Mohebbullah, M. Firoz Hossain, Ayub Nabi Khan, Lijing Wang

{"title":"Recycling of cotton apparel waste and its utilization as a thermal insulation layer in high performance clothing","authors":"M. A. Rahman Bhuiyan, Ayub Ali, Md. Mohebbullah, M. Firoz Hossain, Ayub Nabi Khan, Lijing Wang","doi":"10.1186/s40691-023-00342-y","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-023-00342-y","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>Recycling and converting textile waste into value-added products with enhanced functional properties pave the way toward a circular economy for sustainability. This research investigates the utilization of recycled cotton fiber from apparel cutting waste for fabricating high-performance thermal barrier fabrics. The physical characterization of the developed fabrics revealed a regular arrangement of fibers, consequently the uniform thickness of the fabric with no distortion on fiber surfaces due to the recycling operation of cotton waste. The developed fabrics also demonstrated a high softness index and low compression and bending average rigidity compared to the commercial fabric with similar thickness. The heat protection performance revealed an increase in fabric conductive and radiative heat resistance with increasing the amount of recycled cotton fiber in the fabrics. The inherent thermal resistance of cotton fiber and the low inter-fiber spacing because of their uniform orientation in the fabric lead to the high thermal resistance of developed fabrics. In the case of fabric air permeability concerning the clothing thermal comfort, no significant difference in breathability was observed among the test specimens. Besides, the moisture management profile of developed fabrics indicated the capability to create favorable thermal comfort within the clothing-skin microenvironment because of improved liquid transportation and diffusion of perspiration vapor through the fabric.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-06-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-023-00342-y","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"4618256","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 2

Investigation of materials for palm and dorsal of anti-vibration gloves for thermal comfort 热舒适性防振手套掌背材料的研究

IF 2.4 4区管理学

Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2023-06-05 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00340-0

Annie Yu, Sachiko Sukigara

引用次数: 0