Ngan Yi Kitty Lam, Jeanne Tan, Anne Toomey, Ka Chun Jimmy Cheuk
{"title":"Washability and abrasion resistance of illuminative knitted e-textiles with POFs and silver-coated conductive yarns","authors":"Ngan Yi Kitty Lam, Jeanne Tan, Anne Toomey, Ka Chun Jimmy Cheuk","doi":"10.1186/s40691-022-00313-9","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-022-00313-9","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>For the integration of conductive yarns in e-textiles, knitting offers structural versatility and malleability for wider product applications in the contexts of wearables and interiors. To enable mass adoption of conductive materials, it is imperative for users to be able to launder these materials as part of product maintenance. Interactive textiles knitted from polymeric optical fibres (POFs) and silver-coated conductive yarns are able to illuminate and change colours via integrated touch sensor systems. Current research only focuses on the washability and abrasion resistance of conductive yarns solely and not both POF and conductive yarn within the same fabric structure. This study is novel as it investigates the washability and abrasion resistance of POF and silver-coated conductive yarn integrated knitted textiles with different loop structures and the impact to their illuminative function. POFs were knitted within the same fabric structure by the inlay method using a 7-gauge industrial hand-operated flatbed knitting machine. This study examined how washing and abrasion affect POFs and silver-coated conductive yarn in five different knit structures, and the illuminative function of the knitted textiles. Washing and abrasion affected the resistance of conductive yarns. Scratches and bent POFs were observed after 20 gentle washing cycles. However, washing had minimal impact on the illuminative function of the knitted e-textiles examined in this study. The experiments provide evidence that e-textiles knitted with POFs and conductive yarns in the same fabric structure withstand washing and abrasion and thus have the potential for mass market adoption in fashion and interior applications.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"9 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2022-11-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-022-00313-9","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42887293","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Analysis of driving forces of 3D knitted shape memory textile actuators using scale-up finite element method","authors":"SangUn Kim, Jooyong Kim","doi":"10.1186/s40691-022-00307-7","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-022-00307-7","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>The shape memory textile actuator uses a shape memory alloy that changes its crystal structure according to temperature and then returns to its initial shape, which is suitable for wearable applications that value wearing and portability. The shape memory effect of returning to the initial shape and the complex fabric structure influence each other, and accordingly, various drives have been measured in many studies. Therefore, in this study, the driving force, which is the most important physical property of the shape memory textile actuator, was analyzed through a scale-up finite element analysis. In the wire scale, a shape memory alloy wire was obtained for an analysis of the mechanical and thermal properties through tensile tests and DSC, and in the unit cell scale, a 3D knit structure was modeled using the Texgen and Weftknit programs. Finally, a supercell of size 5 × 5 was subjected to external deformation by displacement and heating conditions using disposition through the ANSYS program. The driving force was measured through microanalysis. Subsequently, the driving force of the manufactured shape memory textile actuator was compared and analyzed to determine the suitability of this method. Furthermore, the direction of subsequent studies was mapped based on the analysis presented on the differences in the maximum driving force and error rate.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"9 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2022-11-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-022-00307-7","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43247844","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The assessment, development, and measurement of human capacity building programs for El Salvador’s textile and apparel industry","authors":"Laura E. McAndrews, Jung E. Ha-Brookshire","doi":"10.1186/s40691-022-00311-x","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-022-00311-x","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>Sustained competitive advantage in developing nations is driven by human development through intangible assets that come from education. Grounded from Barney’s (Journal of Management 17:99–120, 1991) resource-based theory, this study was designed (a) to assess El Salvador’s textile and apparel (T&A) industry by identifying key knowledge gaps, (b) to create human capacity building opportunities using Kolb’s experiential learning theory for T&A supply chain members, and (c) to measure effectiveness of such opportunities through principle-attributes matrix, ultimately helping the industry sector compete. A case study research study approach was used to develop a comprehensive approach to develop four educational workshops for Salvadorian T&A supply chain members from April 2019 to February 2020. Pre and post surveys measured workshops’ effectiveness in knowledge, skills, and attitudes. The results showed that there was a statistically significant difference in pre- and post means for knowledge, skills, and attitudes for all four workshops. Further analysis showed that each of the workshops statistically changed participants’ human capacity in supply chain management, product development, marketing, and CAFTA-DR provisions. The study shows that educational theory could be used successfully for human capacity building in developing nations and supply chain training.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"9 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2022-11-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-022-00311-x","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44828889","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Zhaoshan Wu, Liya Zhou, Xuemei Ding, Xiongying Wu, Laili Wang
{"title":"Knowledge roadmap of sustainable development in the textile and apparel industry: a scientometric analysis","authors":"Zhaoshan Wu, Liya Zhou, Xuemei Ding, Xiongying Wu, Laili Wang","doi":"10.1186/s40691-022-00308-6","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-022-00308-6","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>Practices in the textile and apparel industry (TAI) have led to numerous environmental and social problems, which have prompted extensive research on the sustainable development of the textile and apparel industry (SDTAI). This paper presents a comprehensive and quantitative analysis of the status quo in the SDTAI domain using scientometrics. From 1987 to 2019, the Web of Science core collection databases (SCI and SSCI) included 863 journal articles related to SDTAI, and our analysis results were as follows: (1) 60 critical research keywords occur in the knowledge base; (2) four research hotspots were identified; (3) five themes constituted the main knowledge area; and (4) based on the knowledge base, research hotspot, and knowledge domain, the knowledge structure consisted of nine subjects and five systems. This paper proposes a knowledge roadmap that can be helpful for practitioners and academicians to better understand the current sustainable development status and trends in the TAI.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"9 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2022-10-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-022-00308-6","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41810457","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Automatic extraction of upper body landmarks using Rhino and Grasshopper algorithms","authors":"Eun Joo Ryu, Hwa Kyung Song","doi":"10.1186/s40691-022-00302-y","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-022-00302-y","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>The aim of this study is to develop algorithms for automatic landmark extraction on women with various upper body types and body inclinations using the Grasshopper algorithm editor, which enables the user to interact with the 3D modeling interface. First, 15 landmarks were defined based on the morphological features of 3D body surfaces and clothing applications, from which automatic landmark extraction algorithms were developed. To verify the accuracy of the algorithms on various body shapes, this study determined criteria for key body shape factors (BMI, neck slope, upper body slope, and shoulder slope) that influence each landmark position, classified them into body shape groups and sorted the scan samples for each body type using the 6th SizeKorea database. The statistical differences between the scan-derived measurements and the SizeKorea measurements were compared, with an allowable tolerance of ISO 20685. In the case of landmarks with significant differences, the algorithm was modified. It was found that the algorithms were successfully applied to various upper body shapes, which improved the reliability and accuracy of the algorithm.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"9 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2022-10-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-022-00302-y","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49534654","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The effect of touch simulation in virtual reality shopping","authors":"Ha Kyung Lee, Namhee Yoon, Dooyoung Choi","doi":"10.1186/s40691-022-00312-w","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-022-00312-w","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>This study aims to explore the effect of touch simulation on virtual reality (VR) store satisfaction mediated by VR shopping self-efficacy and VR shopping pleasure. The moderation effects of the autotelic and instrumental need for touch between touch simulation and VR store satisfaction are also explored. Participants wear a head-mounted display VR device (Oculus Go) in a controlled laboratory environment, and their VR store experience is recorded as data. All participants’ responses (n = 58) are analyzed using SPSS 20.0 for descriptive statistics, reliability analysis, exploratory factor analysis, and the Process macro model analysis. The results show that touch simulation positively influences VR store satisfaction, which is mediated by the self-efficacy and by the dual path of the self-efficacy and the pleasure. Furthermore, the relation between touch simulation and pleasure is moderated by need for touch. For individuals with a high level of autotelic need for touch, the effect of touch simulation on the pleasure is heightened. However, instrumental need for touch does not moderate the path of touch simulation on the self-efficacy.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"9 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2022-10-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-022-00312-w","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46688933","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Evaluation of 3D apparel design spatial visualization training for cognitive function of older adults: cross-cultural comparisons","authors":"Hyo Jung Julie Chang, Seoha Min","doi":"10.1186/s40691-022-00292-x","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-022-00292-x","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>This study examined how older adults of four different ethnic groups evaluate the spatial visualization training using 3D apparel design software. The model tested was derived from the Technology Acceptance Model (TAM) and a Unified Theory of Acceptance and Use of Technology (UTAUT). A quantitative research design with an online questionnaire using the purposive quota sampling was used. Structure equation modeling and ANOVAs were performed to test the hypotheses with 600 completed data. The result shows significant ethnic differences of the perceptions, attitude, and behavioral intention for our spatial visualization training. Especially, Asian Americans found the training easy to be involved with and were more likely to use it, whereas Caucasian Americans felt the training to be most difficult and were less likely to use it, compared to other ethnic groups. Also, perceived ease of use and the performance expectancy are cardinal in increasing the positive attitude toward the training. This study discovered the significant factors influencing the intention to use the apparel design virtual technology to improve cognitive functioning. The ethical differences found on the latent variables among four ethnic groups indicate the need of more thoughtful training development by considering the different cultural requirements and challenges.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"9 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2022-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-022-00292-x","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44880703","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Development of cellulosic-based hemostatic dressing with antibacterial activity","authors":"Mostafa Goodarz, Amir Behzadnia, Hassan Mohammadi","doi":"10.1186/s40691-022-00305-9","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-022-00305-9","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>A cotton-based hemostatic dressing featuring antibacterial properties was developed with the potential of being used in traffic accidents to control hemorrhage. Cotton gauze was oxidized initially in an acidic medium and then coated by PVA nanofibers and/or PVA nanofibers loaded with Ciprofloxacin. Fabricated dressings were characterized by FTIR analysis and SEM images. The FTIR spectrum showed the existence of carboxyl groups on the oxidized cotton gauze's surface. The carboxyl groups content was estimated to be 17.3 ± 0.3 for the oxidized sample with a mixture of nitric acid and phosphoric acid for 24 h (OCF-Mixed acid24). Moreover, the effect of the exposure duration of cotton gauze in the acidic medium on the blood coagulation activity was assessed. It was observed that the OCF-Mixed acid24 sample exhibited an agreeable hemostatic activity (BCIs = 10). The antibacterial activity against <i>E. coli</i> and<i> S. aureus</i> bacteria was also captured for the coated cotton gauze by the PVA nanofibers loaded with Ciprofloxacin.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"9 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2022-09-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-022-00305-9","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42111574","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Triangulation proves Geum brocade with the horizontal loom of Gojoseon","authors":"Jisu Kim, Young-Joo Na","doi":"10.1186/s40691-022-00309-5","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-022-00309-5","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>Geum (錦, Jin) is a jacquard brocade silk fabric (or doubled~tripled woven) with multi-colored warps. Because patterns are shown by colored yarns of overlapping warp layers, it is dense and stiff, making bulky silhouette of layerlook suitable in cool or dry weather. This fabric is completely different from the drape and lightweight low-density plain weave of ‘China silk’. KyungGeum (經錦, warp direction color yarns) requires a high level of weaving technology, different from WiGeum(緯錦, weft direction color yarns). Geums excavated in Louran and Niya of Xinjiang Autonomous Region, Astana, Pazyrik and Noin-Ula have the pattern of animal flock style of Northern people. The purpose of this study is to find out who wove these Geum fabrics by the triangulation of literatures, relics and loom technology. The pattern was quite complex, so a horizontal and rectangular type of loom or a special loom ‘JeHwa-Ru(製華樓)’ were required. Since the ‘Warring States Period(戰國時代)’ of China, all Han (漢) looms were oblique looms with one heald and KyungGeum production was impossible with these looms. The same is true for vertical looms in Central Asia. Also, the Odes(詩經) and the Shujing(書經) told that barbarian and bandits had weaved KyungGeum. Geum as the special products of Goguryeo and Silla it was exported to China and Japan. Therefore it is reasonable to regard the KyungGeum relics of Niya and of Louran as those from Gojoseon, Goguryeo, Silla(Seres) of Korea, as a result of comprehensive examining the year of production, historical documents, pattern symbolism and loom types.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"9 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2022-09-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-022-00309-5","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48497066","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"UV protection effect of cotton dyed with Flos Sophorae (Sophora Japonica L.) extracted with acid hydrolysis","authors":"Lkhagva Narantuya, Cheunsoon Ahn","doi":"10.1186/s40691-022-00304-w","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-022-00304-w","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>Flos Sophorae extract was hydrolyzed using a mixed solution of methanol, HCl, and water to convert rutin to quercetin for the purpose of enhancing the UV protective effect of dyed cotton. Relative yield (%) of quercetin in the hydrolyzed extract was determined by the percent ratio of the absorbance of untreated Flos Sophorae extract at 359 nm to the absorbance of hydrolyzed extract at 370–371 nm. Quercetin yield was 93.09% when 1 M HCl was applied and 52.03% when 0.5 M HCl was applied, both with 60 min reaction time. The latter was applied in dyeing cotton with the dyebath containing hydrolyzed Flos Sophorae extract and water by 50:50 or 75:25 ratio. By dyeing with hydrolyzed Flos Sophorae extract the UPF value of cotton was enhanced to 13.80 indicating 92.76% blockage of the UV rays as opposed to 84.78% blockage by the same fabric without Flos Sophorae dyeing. The present method could produce a light-weight summer cotton with yellow color which could provide a moderate UV protection for daily summer attire.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"9 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2022-09-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-022-00304-w","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48046295","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}