{"title":"Exploring the new Chinese style on social media: a constructivist grounded theory approach","authors":"Luyue Zhang, Eunhyuk Yim","doi":"10.1186/s40691-025-00431-0","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-025-00431-0","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>This study explores the construction and ambivalence of cultural identity within the New Chinese Style by analyzing fashion content on Chinese social media platforms RedNote and Bilibili. Utilizing constructivist grounded theory and postcolonial theory, the research examines how users express their cultural identity through New Chinese Style fashion. The findings highlight several key aspects: some creators and users exhibit a skewed understanding of New Chinese Style, resulting in self-orientalism; others seek to reclaim cultural identity by challenging stereotypical portrayals; some advocate for transcending traditional boundaries to promote cultural exchange; while others engage with New Chinese Style as a means of gaining attention and benefits on social media. These insights suggest that New Chinese Style is not merely a fashion trend but reflects ongoing negotiations of Chinese cultural subjectivity, acknowledging both its challenges and efforts to preserve it. Although New Chinese Style may not fully escape self-orientalism, it represents continuous efforts within Chinese fashion to decolonize.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"12 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-025-00431-0","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145062286","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Establishing colour harmony evaluation and recommendation model for clothing colour matching based on machine learning and deep learning","authors":"Hung-Chung Li, Liang-Kai Wang, Yu-Kun Chang, Kuei-Yuan Huang","doi":"10.1186/s40691-025-00433-y","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-025-00433-y","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>Appropriate colour combinations improved aesthetic design quality and provided a comfortable and pleasant visual experience. However, applying current colour harmony models to clothing colour matching raised doubts about whether the existing theory needed to be refined, requiring further clarification with modern aesthetic perspectives. The study conducted a psychophysical experiment to investigate modern people's perceptions of colour harmony in clothing colour combinations. The results indicated that modern perceptions of colour harmony in clothing differed significantly from previous theories. For applications, two colour harmony models were established with unified fashion datasets for evaluating clothes matching based on colour harmony rules and observers' perceptions. The result showed that the rule-based model could accurately predict all items following nine colour harmony theories, and the perception-based colour harmony evaluation models aligned with contemporary aesthetic preferences were developed with a semi-supervised learning approach. The models, including support vector machines and custom convolutional neural networks, could predict colour harmony perception for the input images with high performance, and the model based on the generative adversarial network could provide colour recommendations for colour matching. The machine learning and deep learning model proposed in the study could be used for aesthetic judgment to generate clothing colour recommendations and provide valid design suggestions for clothing colour matching in the fashion and clothing industry.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"12 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-025-00433-y","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145037276","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Diffusedesigner: sketch-based controllable clothing image generation","authors":"Jangho Lee, Jinpyung Kim, Hyeonbeen Lee","doi":"10.1186/s40691-025-00426-x","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-025-00426-x","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>A tech pack is a set of documents that guides the production of a fashion product and includes all the necessary details to create the garment as designed. It helps to communicate between designers and manufacturers by specifying the detailed requirements for actual garment production. The motivation for this study originates from the resemblance between the flat sketch included in the tech pack and the final garment design. We propose <i>DiffuseDesigner</i>, a sketch-based controllable clothing image generation method, which is trained using pseudo flat sketches and prompts describing the desired output design. In light of this, we collected a large-scale fashion image dataset composed of multiple categories of clothing from three shopping websites. An edge detection algorithm was applied for each image to generate a pseudo flat sketch, and textual prompt information was extracted using a CLIP. Then, we constructed a triplet consisting of the pseudo flat sketch, textual prompt, and original image, and fine-tuned ControlNet to synthesize clothing images based on a pseudo flat sketch while leveraging the prompt information to guide the generation process. We conducted extensive experiments for performance evaluation based on the prompt the user wishes to generate, and quantitatively verified the effectiveness of clothing generation using five evaluation metrics. Finally, through variations in the prompt and pseudo flat sketch, we visually confirmed that the trained model was well-controlled in the direction desired by the designer.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"12 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-025-00426-x","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145021692","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Effect of the alkaline surface modification of the substrate fabric on the peel strength of 3D printed composite fabrics","authors":"Yoojung Han, Changsang Yun","doi":"10.1186/s40691-025-00436-9","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-025-00436-9","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>In the modern fashion industry, 3D printing technologies are increasingly combined with traditional textile fabrics to create innovative 3D garments. Although this integration may not entirely replace traditional clothing manufacturing techniques, it presents opportunities for innovative applications in garment production. In terms of the performance of 3D printed composite fabrics (3D-PCF), adhesion between the 3D printing polymer and the substrate fabric is crucial. However, research on how fabric surface properties influence the adhesion between the substrate fabric and 3D filaments remains limited. Therefore, this study investigates the effects of alkaline surface modifications on the peel strength of substrate fabrics bonded with 3D printing filaments. Alkaline treatment reduces fabric weight, thickness, and tensile strength. Moreover, as both alkaline treatment time and temperature increased, the 3D-PCF peel strength decreased by 30–50%. This is attributed to the reduced fiber diameter and smaller adhesive surface area. Conversely, at NaOH concentrations of 4% and 6%, the increased surface roughness improved peel strength, reaching 15.6 N and 15.9 N, respectively. However, at 8%, surface etching reduced peel strength to 3.7 N. These results demonstrate that optimal alkaline treatment improves surface roughness and the peel strength, while excessive treatment diminishes the adhesive surface area and adhesion strength. Excessive treatment also significantly alters bulk fabric properties, further reducing adhesion. Controlling alkaline concentration to limit bulk changes while increasing surface roughness is an effective strategy to improve 3D-PCF adhesion. Enhanced peel strength through surface modification is expected to prolong the lifespan of 3D-PCF, especially in high-performance applications.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"12 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-025-00436-9","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144926958","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Application of the FEA consumer needs model in e-commerce: a conversational recommendation system for fashion products","authors":"Hyeryeon Park, Suji Kim, Yerim Choi, Hyosun An","doi":"10.1186/s40691-025-00435-w","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-025-00435-w","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>With the rapid expansion of e-commerce, consumers increasingly rely on online platforms to purchase fashion products. However, the vast selection of products often leads to choice overload, making it challenging for consumers to find products that meet their needs. To address this challenge, we propose an advanced Conversational Recommender System (CRS) that applies a Functional, Expressive, and Aesthetic (FEA) consumer needs model. Using this model as a theoretical framework, this study constructs a taxonomy of consumer needs organized into categories and subcategories, each containing multiple attributes, and uses a Large Language Model (LLM) to apply it to review data, extracting attributes that influence purchase intention. Furthermore, CRS experiments were conducted to assess the impact of consumer needs attributes on recommendation performance. Our results indicate that the FEA model-based consumer needs taxonomy effectively categorizes consumer needs, with ease, good value for money, and leg contouring emerging as the most frequently mentioned attributes. Moreover, consumer needs attributes vary across different pants types, highlighting the importance of need-aware recommendations. Experimental evaluation of the CRS demonstrates that incorporating consumer needs attributes improves the recommendation success rates and reduces the average number of turns. Through the empirical application of the FEA model in the CRS, this study demonstrates its effectiveness in improving recommendation performance and its potential in enhancing consumer satisfaction.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"12 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.5,"publicationDate":"2025-08-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-025-00435-w","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144891506","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"A contemporary fashion criticism model based on formative research methodology: an empirical study","authors":"Sujin Park, Jisoo Ha","doi":"10.1186/s40691-025-00432-z","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-025-00432-z","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>Previous studies on fashion criticism have predominantly focused on theoretical reviews, offering limited practical methodologies for engaging in fashion criticism. To address this gap, the primary objective of this study is to propose and empirically validate a contemporary fashion criticism model that bridges the divide between theoretical understanding and practical application. Two research questions are addressed: First, what are the essential elements of a contemporary fashion criticism model that differentiate it from traditional art criticism? Second, what factors are necessary to ensure that a contemporary fashion criticism model is grounded in practical relevance? The study employed formative research to develop and validate the model. A basic model was initially constructed using basic and supplementary elements derived from art criticism models. The proposed model then underwent multiple rounds of internal and external validation by eight experts. The Content Validity Index and Inter-Rater Agreement were used to assess content validity, while external validation was conducted through the experimental application of the developed model in critiquing fashion objects and in-depth interviews. The finalized model consists of 7 procedures and 14 detailed criteria, all confirmed for validity and reliability. This model integrates diverse perspectives on contemporary fashion criticism, reflecting its “situationality,” which contrasts the relatively static nature of art criticism. It serves as a valuable and versatile tool for objectively assessing contemporary fashion, providing a foundational benchmark for experts and broader audiences alike.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"12 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.5,"publicationDate":"2025-08-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-025-00432-z","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144832254","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Kyeongeun Lee, Hanjou Park, Yewon Choi, Juyeon Baek, Jooyoun Kim
{"title":"Zinc oxide and zeolite imidazolate framework-8 loaded fibers for dual protection against airborne particulate and gaseous pollutants","authors":"Kyeongeun Lee, Hanjou Park, Yewon Choi, Juyeon Baek, Jooyoun Kim","doi":"10.1186/s40691-025-00434-x","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-025-00434-x","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>The widespread impacts of industrial air pollutants address the urgent need for advanced filtration technologies mitigating various environmental pollutants. This study conducted comparative investigations of zinc oxide (ZnO) and zeolitic imidazolate framework-8 (ZIF-8) treated fibrous composites with subsequent corona charging, to apply as a dual-function air filter that is simultaneously protective against particulate and gaseous matters. While both ZnO and ZIF-8 presented charge-trapping capability, the uniform coating of ZIF-8 nanocrystals on the fibrous material, rather than uneven coating of ZnO aggregates, produced higher charging capacity, leading to a superior electrostatic filtration efficiency. On the other hand, agglomerates of ZnO crystals in the fibrous web advantageously affected the mechanical filtration efficiency, especially in the layered structure. Concerning the SO<sub>2</sub> gas adsorption capacity, the inherent pore characteristic of ZIF-8 allowed a superior gas removal performance. The SO<sub>2</sub> adsorption was hardly influenced by the post-corona charging process, either for ZnO or ZIF-8 treated composites. This study highlights the advantages of ZIF-8 integration in fibrous composites for the advanced design of dual filters, where ZIF-8 integration not only gives high gas removal performance but also significantly enhances charge trapping ability and the associated electrostatic filtration performance.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"12 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.5,"publicationDate":"2025-08-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-025-00434-x","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144810819","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Correction: Study on the various lightweight PLA honeycomb structures with 3D printing process conditions","authors":"Dikshita Chowdhury, Sunhee Lee","doi":"10.1186/s40691-025-00430-1","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-025-00430-1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"12 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.5,"publicationDate":"2025-08-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-025-00430-1","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145161741","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Development of a parametric production jacket pattern for an automated pattern-making system","authors":"Narae Kim, Jinhee Park","doi":"10.1186/s40691-025-00419-w","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-025-00419-w","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>Automating the drafting process significantly reduces time and cost, previously dependent on the personal intuition and expertise of pattern makers. Moreover, it has the potential to contribute to the automation of the entire production process. However, the integration of algorithms into the patterns is necessary to automate the drafting of patterns directly on computers based on the pattern maker's intuition. Parametric patterns, which express the silhouette, a formative constraint intimately linked to the pattern, through drafting formulas utilizing key body dimensions as variables, present a promising alternative for the automation of the drafting process. This study develops parametric production patterns for automated garment manufacturing processes by integrating ease allowances and design elements into basic patterns. Leveraging the zero-ease allowance pattern from previous studies, we created basic parametric patterns by incorporating constant values into the ratio formula of parametric nude patterns. Subsequently, the rules for applying design elements were added to develop production patterns of various sizes. The developed patterns were compared with those generated using conventional grading methods. The results indicate that the parametric production patterns closely maintain fit and silhouette, demonstrating their potential as automated alternatives to conventional drafting methods solely based on size specifications and body measurements. Furthermore, we believe that through subsequent studies and analyzing a broader range of garment types and sizes, the methodology of the parametric production pattern developed in this research will contribute to establishing foundational algorithms for automating the process of garment pattern generation.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"12 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.5,"publicationDate":"2025-07-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-025-00419-w","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145168345","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Study on the various lightweight PLA honeycomb structures with 3D printing process conditions","authors":"Dikshita Chowdhury, Sunhee Lee","doi":"10.1186/s40691-025-00429-8","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-025-00429-8","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>This study focused on creating honeycomb samples using various lightweight polylactic acid (LW_PLA) filaments through 3D printing. A commercial lightweight filaments like PLA(Esun), LW-PLA-ES(Esun), LW-PLA-CL(colorffab), and LW-PLA-HT (colorfab) were used to model 50 mm × 50 mm × 5 mm honeycomb samples, 3D printed with an infill density of 10% and nozzle temperatures ranging from 200 ℃ to 240 ℃ at a 10 ℃ interval. The LW_PLA_CL samples were also printed with different infill densities of 10%, 20%, 30%, 40% and 50% at 230 ℃ and 240 ℃, with a bed temperature of 65 ℃ and a print speed of 60 mm/sec. Characterization involved morphology and compression tests, including surface and foaming analysis via a field emission scanning electron microscope. Compression tests with a universal testing machine revealed that LW_PLA_CL at 240 ℃ and 50% infill density produced the most effective honeycomb structure, offering the best foaming properties and good compressive properties, improving mechanical performance for diverse applications.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":"12 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.5,"publicationDate":"2025-07-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-025-00429-8","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145163794","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}