Clothing Cultures最新文献_第2页

Exploring planet cosplay: Book review of Planet Cosplay: Costume Play, Identity and Global Fandom, Paul Mountfort, Anne Peirson-Smith and Adam Geczy (2019) 探索星球角色扮演:星球角色扮演书评:古装剧，身份和全球粉丝，保罗·芒福特，安妮·佩尔森-史密斯和亚当·盖齐(2019)

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Clothing Cultures Pub Date : 2021-03-01 DOI: 10.1386/cc_00047_5

Therèsa M. Winge

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Two ends of the same thread: Reimagining the boundaries of personal and professional labour in eighteenth-century needlework and twenty-first-century crochet 同一条线的两端:重新想象18世纪针线活和21世纪钩针编织中个人和专业劳动的界限

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Clothing Cultures Pub Date : 2021-03-01 DOI: 10.1386/cc_00044_1

Jessica Banner

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Editorial 社论

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Clothing Cultures Pub Date : 2020-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/cc_00018_2

J. Turney

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Spatial distancing and social closeness: The work of creative professionals during the pandemic 空间距离和社会亲密:大流行期间创意专业人员的工作

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Clothing Cultures Pub Date : 2020-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/cc_00037_1

Zemfira Salamova

{"title":"Spatial distancing and social closeness: The work of creative professionals during the pandemic","authors":"Zemfira Salamova","doi":"10.1386/cc_00037_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/cc_00037_1","url":null,"abstract":"As a complete recovery from the COVID-19 pandemic crisis does not seem possible in the near future, the survival of many creative professions is under threat in Russia and other countries. Strict anti-pandemic measures were introduced in Moscow at the end of March 2020 and lasted for\u0000 a little more than two months. One of the main requirements was to work from home and go outside as rarely as possible. Most Russian creative professionals such as photographers, makeup artists, actors, musicians, stand-up comedians and television hosts found themselves in very unfamiliar\u0000 conditions since their work presumes physical contact with other people. However, even artists who usually work alone like jewellers or designers met with came across practical and psychological difficulties as well and had to adapt to the new order. This research focuses on two examples of\u0000 creative work during the COVID-19 pandemic: Russian jewellery designer Katia Rabey’s project ‘Quarantine Rings’ and the participation of Russian makeup artist Yulia Rada in virtual commercial photo-shoots. I am interested in how the artists perceived the changes introduced\u0000 as a result of the pandemic and how these changes emphasized the digital side of contemporary creative labour. Despite the differences in the challenges that the two artists met, both of them stressed the importance of social closeness.","PeriodicalId":53824,"journal":{"name":"Clothing Cultures","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.1,"publicationDate":"2020-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46567225","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

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Loss and revival of visual identity: Inner work with clothing 视觉身份的丧失与复兴:服装的内在工作

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Clothing Cultures Pub Date : 2020-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/cc_00040_1

Agata Zalewska

{"title":"Loss and revival of visual identity: Inner work with clothing","authors":"Agata Zalewska","doi":"10.1386/cc_00040_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/cc_00040_1","url":null,"abstract":"Lockdown during the COVID-19 pandemic meant an adieu to formal wear. ‘Oh no! How to be me?’ ‐ I panicked, facing an identity crisis, as suits that visually defined me were irrelevant. I allowed clothes to lead the way through the crisis and here present a qualitative\u0000 research, based on self-ethnography of wardrobe and inner, psychological work with clothing as per guidelines of processwork psychology, involving two ways of thinking: logical and experiential. The objects of the research are formal suits (defining pre-pandemic, ‘normal’ visual\u0000 identity), sweatpants (a threat to the identity) and overalls (the lockdown outfit). Logical work uses interpretation, association, memory, intellectual understanding of individual, cultural and social perception of clothing and body. Experiential work notices body responses, examines posture,\u0000 movement and sensory experiences, explores visual images, shapes, colours, textures, details and their appeal. The loss is approached as a death of a certain part of self (formal, official, busy), which gives way to a new, emerging way of being, as specific features of clothes provide a hint\u0000 of continuity and a link to revival. Dissection of judgement (e.g. lazy) gives access to transformative qualities (idle, effortless). Integration of these qualities means making the unknown known and finally my own. The article remarks on changes in dressing practice, e.g. in styling, care,\u0000 which reflect the transformative lockdown experience and their impact on social interactions.","PeriodicalId":53824,"journal":{"name":"Clothing Cultures","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.1,"publicationDate":"2020-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46900214","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

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Food service uniforms and the symbolism(s) of wearing a mask 食品服务制服和戴面具的象征意义

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Clothing Cultures Pub Date : 2020-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/cc_00033_1

H. Akou

{"title":"Food service uniforms and the symbolism(s) of wearing a mask","authors":"H. Akou","doi":"10.1386/cc_00033_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/cc_00033_1","url":null,"abstract":"When the COVID-19 pandemic began, ‘essential workers’ in the United States ‐ including nurses, delivery drivers, grocery clerks and waitresses ‐ bore the brunt of extreme scepticism over public health measures such as lockdowns and wearing facemasks. Conflicting\u0000 messages from the president, the Centers for Disease Control and state and local governments turned mask mandates into political battles. Some businesses chose to require masks for employees and/or customers, but others refused to allow them as part of the uniform. This article focuses on\u0000 a specific category of employees ‐ food service workers, typically women and people of colour ‐ in order to highlight how employers made decisions about masking early in the pandemic and how individual workers were affected by the turmoil. In the United States, employers have\u0000 tremendous power to decide how employees are (and are not) allowed to dress. For many businesses, uniforms are part of the company’s brand identity. When employees at Starbucks wear their iconic green aprons with the Starbucks logo, they embody the company in their interactions with\u0000 customers; changes can be made, but they happen more slowly than changes in mainstream fashion. Testimony at public hearings on mask mandates has revealed deep concerns about religious freedom, government intrusion, scientific knowledge and the cost of medical care (since the United States\u0000 does not have universal healthcare). When businesses decide whether masks should be required, allowed or forbidden as part of the dress code, it is not just a public health decision but a branding decision with short-term and long-term consequences. Even before the pandemic, face coverings\u0000 were largely associated with criminals, political activists (such as Occupy and Antifa) and ultra-conservative Muslims.","PeriodicalId":53824,"journal":{"name":"Clothing Cultures","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.1,"publicationDate":"2020-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48494733","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

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The future of outfits after the staying-in trend: Home wear, digitization and cultural shift 居家潮流后的服装未来:家装、数字化和文化转变

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Clothing Cultures Pub Date : 2020-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/cc_00038_1

M. Skivko

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Virus chic: Facemasks and their usage 病毒别致:口罩及其用法

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Clothing Cultures Pub Date : 2020-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/cc_00034_1

R. Brett

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Crafting comfort: Constructing connection during a pandemic 打造舒适感：在疫情期间建立联系

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Clothing Cultures Pub Date : 2020-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/cc_00036_1

Emma Louise Rixhon

{"title":"Crafting comfort: Constructing connection during a pandemic","authors":"Emma Louise Rixhon","doi":"10.1386/cc_00036_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/cc_00036_1","url":null,"abstract":"While the world has been in varying forms of lockdown due to a global pandemic, people have turned to fabric. This article explores how material crafts have provided individuals with tactile intimacy during a pandemic defined by isolation, drawing on ideas of touch and sewing as forming\u0000 both metaphorical and literal connections. The act of crafting provides relief and comfort to the maker, through simple, repetitive actions defined by laws set by the desired product as well as the materials used. It also creates connection through gifting, solidifying bonds between people\u0000 even when they are a minimum of 2 m apart. People, however, do not only share their crafts as gifts, but also as social media posts, generating online communities providing positive feedback. This phenomenon became so ubiquitous during lockdown that it became evident that people craved productivity\u0000 during a time where all non-essential work was paused or confined to the home. Whereas crafts as hobbies are usually a separation from feelings of productivity, during the pandemic they became many people’s only means of feeling useful, providing another dimension of comfort and security\u0000 in a time of instability and isolation. While the popularity of craft making may ebb and flow, this article demonstrates how its benefits are fundamental to human creativity and connectedness.","PeriodicalId":53824,"journal":{"name":"Clothing Cultures","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.1,"publicationDate":"2020-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44387261","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

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Editorial 编辑

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Clothing Cultures Pub Date : 2020-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/cc_00039_2

John F. Turney, Liudmila Aliabieva

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