视觉身份的丧失与复兴:服装的内在工作

IF 0.1 Q1 Arts and Humanities
Agata Zalewska
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引用次数: 0

摘要

COVID-19大流行期间的封锁意味着对正装的告别。“哦,不!如何成为我?我惊慌失措,面临着身份危机,因为在视觉上定义我的西装已经无关紧要了。我让衣服引领我们度过危机,并在此提出一项定性研究,基于服装的自我民族志和内在心理工作,根据过程心理学的指导方针,涉及两种思维方式:逻辑和经验。研究对象是正装(定义大流行前的“正常”视觉形象)、运动裤(对身份的威胁)和工作服(封锁服装)。逻辑工作使用解释、联想、记忆、对个人、文化和社会对服装和身体的认知的智力理解。体验性作品关注身体的反应,检查姿势、运动和感官体验,探索视觉图像、形状、颜色、纹理、细节及其吸引力。这种损失被看作是自我的某一部分(正式的、官方的、忙碌的)的死亡,它让位于一种新的、正在出现的存在方式,因为服装的特定特征提供了一种连续性的暗示,并与复兴联系在一起。对判断的剖析(例如,懒惰)使我们能够接触到改变的品质(懒惰、不费力)。这些品质的整合意味着让未知的事物变得为人所知,并最终成为我自己的。文章评论了着装实践的变化,例如造型、护理方面的变化,这些变化反映了变革性的封锁经历及其对社会互动的影响。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
Loss and revival of visual identity: Inner work with clothing
Lockdown during the COVID-19 pandemic meant an adieu to formal wear. ‘Oh no! How to be me?’ ‐ I panicked, facing an identity crisis, as suits that visually defined me were irrelevant. I allowed clothes to lead the way through the crisis and here present a qualitative research, based on self-ethnography of wardrobe and inner, psychological work with clothing as per guidelines of processwork psychology, involving two ways of thinking: logical and experiential. The objects of the research are formal suits (defining pre-pandemic, ‘normal’ visual identity), sweatpants (a threat to the identity) and overalls (the lockdown outfit). Logical work uses interpretation, association, memory, intellectual understanding of individual, cultural and social perception of clothing and body. Experiential work notices body responses, examines posture, movement and sensory experiences, explores visual images, shapes, colours, textures, details and their appeal. The loss is approached as a death of a certain part of self (formal, official, busy), which gives way to a new, emerging way of being, as specific features of clothes provide a hint of continuity and a link to revival. Dissection of judgement (e.g. lazy) gives access to transformative qualities (idle, effortless). Integration of these qualities means making the unknown known and finally my own. The article remarks on changes in dressing practice, e.g. in styling, care, which reflect the transformative lockdown experience and their impact on social interactions.
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来源期刊
Clothing Cultures
Clothing Cultures HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-
CiteScore
0.40
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