Clothing Cultures最新文献_第3页

The role of women’s dressing in the current social activist movement in Chile (2019‐20) 女性着装在当前智利社会活动家运动中的作用(2019 - 20)

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Clothing Cultures Pub Date : 2020-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/cc_00035_1

Camila Andrea Ríos Erazo

{"title":"The role of women’s dressing in the current social activist movement in Chile (2019‐20)","authors":"Camila Andrea Ríos Erazo","doi":"10.1386/cc_00035_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/cc_00035_1","url":null,"abstract":"In the context of the current protests in Chile, women are more empowered than they have been in previous years; they dare to protest freely in the streets to express themselves and demand their rights. They enhance their political message through their bodies by wearing accessories\u0000 such as blindfolds or hoods. They have transformed these objects into symbols of protest. Women protesting with bare torsos or wearing only bras are some of the meaningful ways that some women are currently expressing themselves politically in Chile. These dress/undressed objects are more\u0000 than simple pieces of fabric: they express political dissent and women’s vulnerability. This article will consider the role and significance that women’s dressing plays in the current Chilean social movement from different perspectives. This research will analyse clothing through\u0000 case studies on three women ‐ María, Rosa and Almendra ‐ who belong to feminist collectives that have actively participated in the recent protests in Santiago de Chile. The interviews conducted were anonymized, so fictitious names are presented. María belongs to\u0000 a collective that carries out performances related to liberation through dance and acting. Rosa and Almendra belong to a well-known collective who, through their characteristic red hoods and dances, express their political dissent by singing songs alluding to revolt. In all cases, textiles\u0000 are a fundamental part of their characterization and identity formation. This article will ultimately argue that dressing, in the context of protest, is an element of power, both in its role of granting freedom and empowering unity for a collective struggle.","PeriodicalId":53824,"journal":{"name":"Clothing Cultures","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.1,"publicationDate":"2020-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47032058","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Manifesto of dress: Political intersections in fashion lecture-performances 着装宣言：时尚讲座表演中的政治交集

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Clothing Cultures Pub Date : 2019-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/cc_00016_1

Madeline Taylor, Kiara Bulley, Anna Hickey

{"title":"Manifesto of dress: Political intersections in fashion lecture-performances","authors":"Madeline Taylor, Kiara Bulley, Anna Hickey","doi":"10.1386/cc_00016_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/cc_00016_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article argues for the consideration of the lecture-performance as a genre that offers rich possibilities for critical fashion discourse, one that is uniquely suited to the material, embodied nature of clothing.The article recounts a lecture-performance by Australian-based design\u0000 group The Stitchery Collective, which explored moments in history that demonstrate fashion’s capacity to resist, rebel and turn the political into the fabulous. From Amelia Bloomer’s bloomers to the sans-culottes of revolutionary France, fashion has acted as a tool and medium for\u0000 great social protest and momentum for change. In contemporary fashion, local designers in Australia embed counter-fashion ideology into their business practices to offer a counteraction to the more negative effects of capital-F Fashion. The lecture-performance aimed to reframe personal consumption\u0000 choices in the now, via the political fashion of the past, as politically motivated and most of all, capable of contributing to real change. The Stitchery proposed that in fashion, the personal is political and the political is personal, both throughout history and in the present day. The\u0000 creative work combined public lecture, historical dress up, contemporary fashion showcase and call to action in an engaging lecture-performance format.","PeriodicalId":53824,"journal":{"name":"Clothing Cultures","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.1,"publicationDate":"2019-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49223880","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Leopard in kitten heels: The politics of Theresa May’s sartorial choices 豹纹穿中跟鞋:特蕾莎·梅的着装选择

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Clothing Cultures Pub Date : 2019-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/cc_00012_1

R. Evans

引用次数: 0

Freedom of speech: A recent history of political t-shirts in the United States 言论自由：美国政治t恤的近代史

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Clothing Cultures Pub Date : 2019-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/cc_00011_1

H. Akou

{"title":"Freedom of speech: A recent history of political t-shirts in the United States","authors":"H. Akou","doi":"10.1386/cc_00011_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/cc_00011_1","url":null,"abstract":"Since their invention in the 1930s, t-shirts have become one of the most common styles of casual clothing in the United States ‐ worn by all ages, genders and social classes. Although ‘graphic’ t-shirts have existed for decades, twenty-first-century technologies have\u0000 made them much faster and easier to produce. Students protesting the Vietnam War in the 1960s and 1970s wore black armbands and grew their hair long; today, students (and activists of all ages) are more likely to wear political t-shirts. In a time when anyone with modest computer skills can\u0000 design a graphic and get t-shirts professionally printed and shipped in just two or three days, this medium for self- and group-expression is well-suited to the turbulence of politics. This article explores the recent history of political t-shirts in the United States in two parts. The first\u0000 focuses on legislation and legal rulings, including a case heard by the US Supreme Court in 2018 regarding whether activists can wear political t-shirts in polling places (a space where any kind of campaign activity is generally forbidden). The second part explores the definition of a ‘political’\u0000 t-shirt. This section is grounded in a study of t-shirts that are currently turning up in thrift shops in Bloomington, IN ‐ a small, politically active community in a conservative state that voted for Obama in 2008 and then Trump in 2016.","PeriodicalId":53824,"journal":{"name":"Clothing Cultures","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.1,"publicationDate":"2019-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43043173","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Dressing for freedom and justice 为自由和正义而着装

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Clothing Cultures Pub Date : 2019-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/cc_00013_1

S. Covington, Katalin Medvedev

引用次数: 1

A tale of two centuries: The körtti movement and dress in battles over Finnish politics and identities 两个世纪的故事:körtti运动和服装在芬兰政治和身份的斗争

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Clothing Cultures Pub Date : 2019-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/cc_00009_1

Anna-Mari Almila

{"title":"A tale of two centuries: The körtti movement and dress in battles over Finnish politics and identities","authors":"Anna-Mari Almila","doi":"10.1386/cc_00009_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/cc_00009_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article interrogates the transforming sartorial styles of the Christian Protestant revivalist körtti movement in Finland in and around two very specific historical moments: Finland’s independence from Russia in 1917, and the amendment of the Marriage Act in 2014\u0000 that saw the legalization of same-sex marriage in 2017. The analysis covers crucial periods before and after the independence: late nineteenth and early twentieth century, when Russia sought to tighten its control over autonomous Finland and the Finnish intelligentsia organized to resist such\u0000 attempts; through the civil war of 1918, to the turbulent right-/left-divided years of the 1920s and 1930s. Then, the liberalization of the körtti movement from the 1960s and 1970s onwards, and the effect of this upon the debates and battles over the equal marriage law before and\u0000 after the law came into effect is discussed. I show how, through changing histories, changing garments have the capacity to play key roles. By focusing on a particular movement through different times, the article will consider how groups that go by the same name may be fundamentally different\u0000 from their historical predecessors; how they may yet recognize a similar kind of garment even if they attach different associations to it, and how new garments are sometimes required in order to communicate the new positions of those movements and individuals. In the context of analyses of\u0000 garments and cultural positions, this underlines the necessity to think of certain ‘times’ as part of a continuum in which changes and continuities in dress play out and influence sociopolitical relations.","PeriodicalId":53824,"journal":{"name":"Clothing Cultures","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.1,"publicationDate":"2019-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46656946","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1

Learning punk through its products: Combining fashion merchandising practices and pedagogy to develop a subculture of resistance 从朋克产品中学习朋克:结合时尚营销实践和教育学，发展一种反抗亚文化

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Clothing Cultures Pub Date : 2019-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/cc_00015_1

Monica Sklar, Caroline Helfgott, Farah Kitchens

引用次数: 1

Hijab and modesty: Muslim religious identity expression among Egyptian women in the United States 头巾与谦逊:在美国的埃及妇女中穆斯林宗教身份的表达

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Clothing Cultures Pub Date : 2019-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/cc_00010_1

Manal Shaheen, Chanmi Hwang

引用次数: 1

Editorial 社论

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Clothing Cultures Pub Date : 2019-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/cc_00008_2

J. Turney

引用次数: 0

The politics of clothing in postcolonial Indian democracy 后殖民时期印度民主的服装政治

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Clothing Cultures Pub Date : 2019-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/cc_00014_1

Nisar Kannangara

{"title":"The politics of clothing in postcolonial Indian democracy","authors":"Nisar Kannangara","doi":"10.1386/cc_00014_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/cc_00014_1","url":null,"abstract":"Since colonial times, clothing has had a phenomenal and perhaps complex political implication in Indian politics. The political leaders Mahatma Gandhi, B. R. Ambedkar, Jawaharlal Nehru and others had used their attire to exhibit their politics and ideology. In postcolonial India, the\u0000 ideological battle between different political parties and the various ideological movements have often used clothing as one of the most effective medium to express their loyalty, identity and differences. However, the politics of clothing, its colours and the style of wearing in the democratic\u0000 Indian context have received little academic attention. This article attempts to explore some aspects of clothing in postcolonial Indian democracy through an in-depth study. The researcher engages in an ethnographic investigation to understand the ways in which different political ideologies\u0000 are exhibited through clothing and how it is used to display their political identity in public spaces. The article argues that beyond a system of governance, democracy contributes to shaping people’s imagination of clothing, create meaning for specific colours, style of wearing and\u0000 pave the way for physical and symbolic forms of violence and conflict.","PeriodicalId":53824,"journal":{"name":"Clothing Cultures","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.1,"publicationDate":"2019-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44173665","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0