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Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty最新文献

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Top 100 Fashion Influencers 百大时尚影响者
IF 0.4
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5040/9781501361982.0007
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引用次数: 0
Performing fashion 时装表演
IF 0.4
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2020-12-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00012_2
A. Smelik, S. Kaiser
{"title":"Performing fashion","authors":"A. Smelik, S. Kaiser","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00012_2","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00012_2","url":null,"abstract":"The COVID-19 pandemic brings into sharp relief the performative aspect of the way we dress Those who are fortunate to be working remotely are likely to be conscious of their screen pres-ence, which reveals only the top half or third of the body Staring at one’s own face among many others during the online meetings and classes requires new makeup and dressing routines Makeup and hair matter, as do tops, but bottoms and shoes take on a diminished importance Combining nice tops that are in view with sweatpants for the part of the body that (hopefully) no one can see reveals that dress is, after all, performative: we dress not only for ourselves but also for others;for the public gaze Children, too, are being asked to attend to the public gaze as they learn remotely online Many schools are asking or requiring online pupils to dress at home as they would if they were in the classroom © 2020 Intellect Ltd Introduction","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46367854","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 2
Reflections on establishing and editing a journal 关于创办和编辑期刊的几点思考
IF 0.4
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2020-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00006_7
E. Tseëlon
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引用次数: 0
Materials and materialities: Viral and sheep-ish encounters with fashion 材料和材料:与时尚的病毒式和绵羊式相遇
IF 0.4
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2020-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00007_2
S. Kaiser, A. Smelik
{"title":"Materials and materialities: Viral and sheep-ish encounters with fashion","authors":"S. Kaiser, A. Smelik","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00007_2","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00007_2","url":null,"abstract":"The question of what role materials and materialities play in critical fashion studies emerges for us at the present time for at least two reasons We write this introduction in the context of the coro-navirus disease 2019 (COVID-19) pandemic As the virus spreads globally from body to body, the importance of material protection, along with ‘social distancing’, becomes paramount In the hospi-tal context, especially, material shortages of face masks and shields, protective gowns, ventilators and testing swabs present life-threatening conditions due to sheer demand as well as supply chain disruptions On 27 February 2020, the World Health Organization declared, ‘The current global stock-pile of PPE [Personal Protective Equipment] is insufficient’ (WHO 2020a) The COVID-19 pandemic brings materials, their flows and functionality into stark relief By the end of April, many countries were recommending or demanding cloth face masks for everyone in public spaces, with the clarifi-cation that medical masks (e g N95s) should be reserved for healthcare workers The materiality of masks raises a number of aesthetic, cultural, psychological and social issues that we discuss – later in this introduction – through the lens of a posthumanist perspective Secondly, but of special significance for this issue of Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, the coin-cidentally timed papers and exhibition review also point directly to issues of materials and mate-rialities All three articles delve into what emerges from the materials associated with sheep: for example, wool fibre, woollen tweed fabric, sheepskin Each also locates material cultural expressions in themes of place, and even nationality, but within larger contexts of globalization Before address-ing the COVID-19 crisis and introducing the articles and the exhibition review in this issue, we briefly explore concepts of materials and materialities in relation to posthumanism © 2020 Intellect Ltd Introduction English language","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43787727","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 4
Understanding ugg boots: Travels through place, space and time 理解雪地靴:穿越地点、空间和时间
IF 0.4
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2020-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00010_1
R. Matthews
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引用次数: 0
Queer(ing) tailoring: Walter Van Beirendonck and the glorious bastardization of the suit 奇怪的剪裁:沃尔特·范·贝伦东克和西装的光荣堕落
IF 0.4
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2020-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00009_1
Nicola Brajato
{"title":"Queer(ing) tailoring: Walter Van Beirendonck and the glorious bastardization of the suit","authors":"Nicola Brajato","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00009_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00009_1","url":null,"abstract":"Belgian designer Walter Van Beirendonck is internationally known for his original and critical approach to menswear, using fashion as an arena to discuss social and political issues. This ‘Antwerp Six’ member, however, still seems to be under-represented in fashion studies\u0000 scholarship. Therefore, this article aims to offer an investigation of Van Beirendonck’s sartorial practices through an analysis of his queer approach to tailoring. Consequently, the article focuses on the historical and material meanings of the suit in the making of normative and hegemonic\u0000 masculinity, and how the designer has been capable of opening up a material critical discussion of these meanings through the queering of the suit’s design, surface and styling. Beyond being the first academic investigation on Walter Van Beirendonck’s tailoring, the article aims\u0000 to contribute to broadening the knowledge on Belgian fashion, particularly the Antwerp fashion scene and its ways of dealing with the concepts of fashion, body and gender identity.","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42448092","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
The Tweed Run meets Harris Tweed: Stories of a fashionable cycling experience 粗花呢跑遇见哈里斯粗花呢:一个时尚的骑行体验的故事
IF 0.4
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2020-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00008_1
C. Glover
{"title":"The Tweed Run meets Harris Tweed: Stories of a fashionable cycling experience","authors":"C. Glover","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00008_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00008_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article explores the relationship between the cloth Harris Tweed and the cycling event, the Tweed Run. It focuses on extrapolating stories as lived and told of those participating in the event, to examine how material objects can lend agency to a fashionable cycling experience.\u0000 Narrative inquiry methodology is used to explore how a subject emotionally connects with their personal possessions as revealed through storytelling. The aim is to create a new sense of meaning and significance within the research topic, rather than focusing on establishing a grand narrative.\u0000 It brings specific understandings to how objects can be related to and used by individuals to become symbolic and aesthetic ‘thirds’. This study posits that it is the participatory collective nature and transformative space of events such as the Tweed Run that provide an opportunity\u0000 for individuals to interact with their material objects, in a manner that supports their transformation to symbolic or aesthetic thirds and initiates satisfactory (life) stories that can advance living action.","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46859481","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Exhibition Reviews 展览回顾
IF 0.4
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2019-12-01 DOI: 10.1386/scp_00009_5
{"title":"Exhibition Reviews","authors":"","doi":"10.1386/scp_00009_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/scp_00009_5","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43659416","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Converging practices: Fashion exhibits across museums and social media 融合实践：博物馆和社交媒体上的时尚展览
IF 0.4
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2019-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/CSFB.10.1.31_1
H. Jenss
{"title":"Converging practices: Fashion exhibits across museums and social media","authors":"H. Jenss","doi":"10.1386/CSFB.10.1.31_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/CSFB.10.1.31_1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47856650","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 3
Navigating fashion: On the role of digital fashion archives in the preservation, classification and dissemination of fashion heritage 引领时尚：论数字时尚档案在时尚遗产保护、分类和传播中的作用
IF 0.4
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2019-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/CSFB.10.1.69_1
M. Franceschini
{"title":"Navigating fashion: On the role of digital fashion archives in the preservation, classification and dissemination of fashion heritage","authors":"M. Franceschini","doi":"10.1386/CSFB.10.1.69_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/CSFB.10.1.69_1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43432081","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
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