Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty最新文献_第2页

What women want: Fashion, morality and gendered subjectivities in the Highlands of Papua New Guinea 女性想要什么：巴布亚新几内亚高地的时尚、道德和性别主观主义

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Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2021-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00021_1

Olivia Barnett-Naghshineh

{"title":"What women want: Fashion, morality and gendered subjectivities in the Highlands of Papua New Guinea","authors":"Olivia Barnett-Naghshineh","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00021_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00021_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article brings Papua New Guinean women’s perspectives on fashion, gender and morality into conversation with questions of colonial histories and global consumerism. The article shows that adherence to social norms is policed by women in the public sphere and that one person’s choices are enmeshed in ideas of responsibility and obligation to others. Increasingly, younger generations of women believe it is an individual woman’s right to wear what she wants in Papua New Guinea (PNG). Yet young women confront their peers in much the same way older women do. What women wear in PNG is embroiled in ideas of collective morality; plays out at intersections of class, age, race and gender; and demonstrates tensions between ideas of autonomy and collectivity. On whose terms do contemporary Papua New Guinean women get to decide how to dress: their own, or in accordance with community norms and standards? What are the contemporary and historical contexts of whiteness and colonial power that have influenced these norms and standards? This article brings together the experiences and perspective of a young professional Papua New Guinean woman, and her relatives, in dialogue with a young English–Iranian woman anthropologist.","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49496594","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 2

Fashioning culture: Transforming perspectives from Oceania 时尚文化：大洋洲视角的转变

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Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2021-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00018_2

Kalissa Alexeyeff, G. Presterudstuen

引用次数: 2

Transformation in homespun: Power and creativity in early nineteenth-century Hawaiian cloth manufacturing 土布的变革:19世纪早期夏威夷布制造业的力量和创造力

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Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2021-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00020_1

Sarah Kuaiwa

引用次数: 1

Practices of cultural collectivity: Style activism, Miromoda and Māori fashion in Aotearoa New Zealand 文化集体的实践：风格激进主义、Miromoda和新西兰奥特亚的毛利时尚

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Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2021-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00024_1

Harriette Richards

{"title":"Practices of cultural collectivity: Style activism, Miromoda and Māori fashion in Aotearoa New Zealand","authors":"Harriette Richards","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00024_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00024_1","url":null,"abstract":"Familiar narratives of fashion history in Aotearoa New Zealand recount the successes of Pākehā (New Zealand European) designers who have forged a distinctive fashion industry at the edge of the world. This narrative overlooks the history of Māori fashion cultures, including the role of ‘style activism’ enacted by political figures such as Whetu Tirikatene-Sullivan and collectives such as the Pacific Sisters who advanced the status of Māori and Pasifika design in the twentieth century. It also ignores the changing nature of the New Zealand fashion industry today. One of the most significant recent initiatives to alter perceptions of fashion in Aotearoa New Zealand has been Miromoda, the Indigenous Māori Fashion Apparel Board (IMFAB), established in 2008. By championing the work of Māori fashion designers and prioritizing the values of te ao Māori (the Māori world-view), Miromoda is successfully contributing to the ‘decolonization’ of the New Zealand fashion industry. This article foregrounds practices of cultural collectivity, including that of style activists such as Tirikatene-Sullivan and the Pacific Sisters, and Māori fashion designers such as Kiri Nathan, Tessa Lont (Lontessa) and Bobby Campbell Luke (Campbell Luke), to explore the expansion of a more affirmative fashion future in Aotearoa New Zealand.","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47211409","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1

Back to the future: Rewriting fashion history from the Cook Islands 回到未来：从库克群岛改写时尚史

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Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2021-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00019_1

Kalissa Alexeyeff

引用次数: 0

Editorial Foreword 编辑前言

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Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2021-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00017_2

N. Cole, S. Kaiser, A. Smelik

引用次数: 0

‘Not a trend. It’s a tradition’: Remaking Pacific identity and culture at London Pacific Fashion Week 2019 这不是一种趋势。这是一种传统：在2019年伦敦太平洋时装周重塑太平洋身份和文化

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Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2021-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/csfb_00023_1

C. Spark, Tait Brimacombe

{"title":"‘Not a trend. It’s a tradition’: Remaking Pacific identity and culture at London Pacific Fashion Week 2019","authors":"C. Spark, Tait Brimacombe","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00023_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00023_1","url":null,"abstract":"In recent years, the recognition of creative industries such as art, design, media and fashion has thrust these sectors into the spotlight as valuable tools for economic development and integration into global markets. By establishing themselves as creative hotspots, developing countries grow small- and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) and promote creative entrepreneurs who are involved in transforming culture. While an emphasis on incorporating ‘culture’ into design might also be seen as stultifying or essentializing culture, stakeholders working in the region consistently emphasize the significance of incorporating local cultures into their creations. In this article, we draw on interviews with Pacific designers and fashion festival organizers to demonstrate the range of ways in which ‘culture’ is woven into the story of Pacific fashion. In doing so, we highlight the ways in which participants are ‘remaking’ cultural identity and expression by ‘spinning it into something new’, keeping cultural connections alive and personal for those involved in these industries, while also allowing makers to situate their brand or product in the global market. Furthermore, we suggest that involvement in the world of fashion on a global scale represents an opportunity for participants to explore more inclusive and diverse versions of Pacific identity than those sanctioned or imagined outside the world of fashion.","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45895400","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1

Fashion Apparel: Women’s, Men’s, Children’s, and Teens’

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Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5040/9781501361982.ch-008

引用次数: 0

Global Sourcing and Merchandising 全球采购和销售

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Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5040/9781501361982.ch-010

引用次数: 0

So You Want to Be in Fashion? Fashion Auxiliary Services 你想进入时尚圈吗?时尚辅助服务

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Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5040/9781501361982.ch-012

引用次数: 0