Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty最新文献

{"title":"Seminar Report","authors":"Ariel Stark","doi":"10.1386/csfb.10.1.129_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb.10.1.129_5","url":null,"abstract":"Richard D. Granstein, MD (Course dermatology biology Dr. Granstein joined the faculty of the Department of Dermatology at School and the 1984. In 1995, he left Harvard to become chairman of the Department of Dermatology at the Weill Medical College of Cornell University and Dermatologist-in-Chief at the New York Weill Cornell Medical Center of the New York-Presbyterian Hospital. Dr. Granstein’s research interests center on the regulation of immunity within the skin and the relationship of the skin immune system to the development of skin cancers. He and his co-workers demonstrated that epidermal Langerhans cells can present tumor antigens for in vivo antitumor immunity. He also has a special interest in the regulation of the immune system by stress and the nervous system and, along with his colleagues, was the first to show that Langerhans cell function could be regulated by products of nerves. His clinical interests include autoimmune disorders of the skin, skin cancer and psoriasis. Georg Stary, MD (Co-Course Director) is a dermatologist who specializes in infectious and immunological disorders. Dr. Stary grew up in Vienna, Austria, and graduated from Medical University of Vienna. He completed his residency at the Vienna General Hospital / Medical University of Vienna and performed several research projects under Prof. Stingl’s supervision. After his residency, Dr. Stary worked for 4 years as postdoctoral research fellow in Prof. von Andrian’s lab at Harvard Medical School, Boston. Dr. Stary’s research interests include the cellular immune system of the skin and mucosa, host-pathogen interactions and clinical translation of his findings. Recent publications include a major paper on a new mucosal vaccine design in Science and the evaluation of tissue-resident immune cells in Blood, the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, Science Immunology and Science Translation Medicine. He is a peer reviewer for multiple major journals in dermatology and immunology. Dr. Stary’s research efforts have earned him grants from the Austrian Science Fund, Vienna Science and Technology Fund, Max-Kade Foundation and Austrian Central Bank. Dr. Stary is currently on the faculty of Medical University of Vienna as Associate Professor of Dermatology and examines dermatological patients as senior physician. He is Co-Director of the Ludwig Boltzmann Institute for Rare and Undiagnosed Diseases and Adjunct Principal Investigator at CeMM – Center for Molecular Medicine of the Austrian Academy of Sciences. He lives in Vienna with his wife Victoria and children Simon, David, Anna and Benjamin. Wolfgang Bauer, MD is a dermatologist from Vienna with a keen interest in the skin immune system. Dr. Bauer grew up in Germany and Austria, graduated from Vienna Medical University and completed his dermatology residency at the Division of Immunology, Allergy and Infectious Diseases at the Department of Dermatology of the Medical University of Vienna. His main research interests include c","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45294831","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Fashion archives, museums and collections in the age of the digital","authors":"Marco Pecorari","doi":"10.1386/CSFB.10.1.3_7","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/CSFB.10.1.3_7","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41452552","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Digital fashion heritage: Understanding europeanafashion. eu and the Google Cultural Institute’s We Wear Culture","authors":"M. Melchior","doi":"10.1386/CSFB.10.1.49_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/CSFB.10.1.49_1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1386/CSFB.10.1.49_1","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48331859","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Fashion as an event: Conservation and its digital (dis)contents","authors":"Sarah Scaturro","doi":"10.1386/CSFB.10.1.113_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/CSFB.10.1.113_1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49085981","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A history of fashion without fashion: Recovering the stout body in the digital archive","authors":"L. Peters","doi":"10.1386/CSFB.10.1.91_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/CSFB.10.1.91_1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"66693575","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The semiotics of fashion design: A proposal for higher education","authors":"M. G. Guedes, A. Buest","doi":"10.1386/CSFB.9.2.197_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/CSFB.9.2.197_1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2018-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42052875","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"There is more to fashion than meets the eye: The invisible aspects of visual culture","authors":"E. Tseëlon","doi":"10.1386/CSFB.9.2.151_7","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/CSFB.9.2.151_7","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2018-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43299529","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The revitalization of a craft economy: The case of Scottish knitting","authors":"J. Halbert","doi":"10.1386/csfb.9.2.179_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb.9.2.179_1","url":null,"abstract":"In the 1980s, Vivienne Weir knitted for money at home, her skills – little remunerated – realising in luxurious yarns the fashionable imaginings of a local designer. In 2018 Kate Davies knits at home, her skills the foundation of a successful eponymous knitwear design, yarn production, and publishing business. What separates these women is more than time – in contemporary Scotland, knitting is a valid and valued entrepreneurial pursuit, and so-called home knitters form part of a vast network of crafters whose turn from home craft to design-focused entrepreneurship represents a significant contribution to the £1billion per annum that the fashion and textile industries generate for Scotland. Through analysis of the business activities of both women, collected through personal testimony interviews, this article examines the revitalisation of knitting in Scotland as a viable and lucrative entrepreneurial activity. It compares and contrasts the historical case study of Vivienne who was not afforded the opportunity to realise her potential and make a business from her skills, with the contemporary story of Kate who has translated her skills in hand-knitting and passion for design into a profitable enterprise. It argues that the revitalisation of the craft economy of knitting in Scotland has been galvanized by the rise of a new generation of knitters determined to rewrite the Scottish aesthetic lexicon in knitwear design, a new appreciation for the heritage and tradition of skilled knitting, and a new-found understanding of the economic, social, and cultural value of knit craft. In an age of increasing automation in fashion and textiles, and concerns around the social and environmental impacts of mass-manufacturing, this article demonstrates the importance of a dynamic craft economy in knitting to the Scottish fashion and textile industries. The article, and the research undertaken, focusses on the particularities of Scottish hand-knitting through the two case studies and the specific context of Scottish developmental initiatives. However, it has also intended to indicate the resonances of this specific research to other instances of the burgeoning of ‘traditional’ craft practices and products (often undertaken by women) as marketable within a global environment. Such marketability involves complex interactions between notions of the ‘traditional’, of cultural identity or affiliation and how these might be displayed or affirmed in clothing (by designers/producers and consumers). The notion of ‘authenticity’ and how this interacts with ideas of innovation and the fashionable are also explored, along with the importance of the Internet and social media to the success, or otherwise, of such entrepreneurial endeavours.","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2018-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43072491","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Fashion prediction: An interview with Regina Lee Blaszczyk","authors":"E. Tseëlon","doi":"10.1386/CSFB.9.2.235_7","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/CSFB.9.2.235_7","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2018-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42701643","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Book Report","authors":"R. Worth","doi":"10.1386/csfb.9.2.243_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb.9.2.243_5","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2018-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44894655","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}