Materials and materialities: Viral and sheep-ish encounters with fashion

IF 0.8 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY

Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2020-06-01 DOI:10.1386/csfb_00007_2

S. Kaiser, A. Smelik

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引用次数: 4

Abstract

The question of what role materials and materialities play in critical fashion studies emerges for us at the present time for at least two reasons We write this introduction in the context of the coro-navirus disease 2019 (COVID-19) pandemic As the virus spreads globally from body to body, the importance of material protection, along with ‘social distancing’, becomes paramount In the hospi-tal context, especially, material shortages of face masks and shields, protective gowns, ventilators and testing swabs present life-threatening conditions due to sheer demand as well as supply chain disruptions On 27 February 2020, the World Health Organization declared, ‘The current global stock-pile of PPE [Personal Protective Equipment] is insufficient’ (WHO 2020a) The COVID-19 pandemic brings materials, their flows and functionality into stark relief By the end of April, many countries were recommending or demanding cloth face masks for everyone in public spaces, with the clarifi-cation that medical masks (e g N95s) should be reserved for healthcare workers The materiality of masks raises a number of aesthetic, cultural, psychological and social issues that we discuss – later in this introduction – through the lens of a posthumanist perspective Secondly, but of special significance for this issue of Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, the coin-cidentally timed papers and exhibition review also point directly to issues of materials and mate-rialities All three articles delve into what emerges from the materials associated with sheep: for example, wool fibre, woollen tweed fabric, sheepskin Each also locates material cultural expressions in themes of place, and even nationality, but within larger contexts of globalization Before address-ing the COVID-19 crisis and introducing the articles and the exhibition review in this issue, we briefly explore concepts of materials and materialities in relation to posthumanism © 2020 Intellect Ltd Introduction English language

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材料和材料:与时尚的病毒式和绵羊式相遇

目前，材料和材料在关键时尚研究中扮演什么角色的问题出现在我们面前，至少有两个原因，变得至关重要在医院环境中，特别是由于纯粹的需求和供应链中断，口罩和防护罩、防护服、呼吸机和检测拭子的材料短缺导致了危及生命的情况。2020年2月27日，世界卫生组织宣布，“目前全球PPE（个人防护装备）库存不足”（世界卫生组织2020a，强调医用口罩（如N95）应留给医护人员。口罩的物质性提出了许多美学、文化、心理和社会问题，我们将在稍后的引言中通过后人文主义视角进行讨论，硬币定时的论文和展览评论也直接指向材料和材料的问题。这三篇文章都深入探讨了与绵羊相关的材料中出现的东西：例如，羊毛纤维、羊毛花呢织物、羊皮，但在全球化的大背景下，在应对新冠肺炎危机并介绍本期文章和展览评论之前，我们简要探讨了与后人道主义有关的材料和材料的概念©2020知识有限公司简介英语

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来源期刊

Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-

CiteScore

0.70

自引率

75.00%

发文量