Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society最新文献_第5页

Margaret F. Macdonald et al., The Woman in White: Joanna Hiffernan and James McNeill Whistler 玛格丽特·f·麦克唐纳等人，《白衣女人:乔安娜·希弗南和詹姆斯·麦克尼尔·惠斯勒》

IF 0.2 4区社会学

Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2022-09-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2022.0235

Alice Mackrell

引用次数: 0

Anne Green, Gloves: An Intimate History 安妮·格林，《手套:亲密的历史》

IF 0.2 4区社会学

Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2022-09-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2022.0234

Rebecca Unsworth

引用次数: 0

Obituary: Anne Thomas 讣告:安妮·托马斯

IF 0.2 4区社会学

Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2022-09-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2022.0238

V. Cumming

引用次数: 0

An Inspiring Object: A Wedding Uchikake Kimono from the Collection of the National Museum in Kraków and its Multiple Representations 一个鼓舞人心的对象:Kraków国立博物馆收藏的婚礼和服及其多重表现

IF 0.2 4区社会学

Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2022-09-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2022.0230

Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka

引用次数: 0

Conventional to Comfortable or Respectable to Practical: The Evolution of Women’s Golf Clothing in Britain, 1890–1935 从传统到舒适，从体面到实用:1890-1935年英国女子高尔夫服装的演变

IF 0.2 4区社会学

Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2022-09-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2022.0231

Fiona Skillen, Lauren Beatty

{"title":"Conventional to Comfortable or Respectable to Practical: The Evolution of Women’s Golf Clothing in Britain, 1890–1935","authors":"Fiona Skillen, Lauren Beatty","doi":"10.3366/cost.2022.0231","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2022.0231","url":null,"abstract":"The emergence of sports-specific clothing during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries has been explored by academics, yet with only a few exceptions which focus on sports such as swimming, riding and tennis, little has been written about the development of sportswear for women in Britain in this period. 1 Similarly, there has been little in the way of consideration given to the growth and development of women’s golf during this time. Yet, both are areas of considerable change and worthy of detailed study. In this article we will trace the developments of golf clothing for women from the early days of the formalized game in the late nineteenth century until the end of the inter-war period. In doing so we seek to highlight that golf fashions, like those in other sporting arenas, mirrored the changing expectations of female players whilst also reflecting the societal expectations of women of the period. We will discuss the everyday clothing worn by the pioneers of the game and the modifications they made to their garments in order allow them to play effectively. We will also explore the growth of specialist sports clothing developed specifically for golf and the ways in which these sports clothes were marketed and ultimately became fashionable modes of attire beyond the golf course by the end of the inter-war period.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"86920799","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 2

Just Like the King's Road, Only Nearer: Scotland's Boutique Bonanza, 1965–1970 就像国王路，只是更近:苏格兰的精品富矿，1965-1970

IF 0.2 4区社会学

Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2022.0220

J. Halbert

{"title":"Just Like the King's Road, Only Nearer: Scotland's Boutique Bonanza, 1965–1970","authors":"J. Halbert","doi":"10.3366/cost.2022.0220","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2022.0220","url":null,"abstract":"The fashion entrepreneurs of so-called ‘Swinging London’ — John Stephen on Carnaby Street or Mary Quant on the King's Road, for example — fundamentally changed British fashion in the 1960s: from old to young, dull to vibrant and, crucially, from shop to boutique. But while the impact of ‘Swinging London’ is well recorded in the historiography of English fashion and retail, less is known about its effects further afield. This article considers the impact of ‘Swinging London’ boutique culture in Scotland between 1965 and 1970. Taking the example of the Glasgow fashion design and manufacturing business Marion Donaldson as its main case study, it draws on a variety of oral history, archival and media evidence to trace the dissemination of boutique fashion culture in Scotland across multiple retail contexts. From the urban centres of Glasgow and Edinburgh to the towns and regions beyond, it offers new analyses of the opportunities boutique retailing afforded Marion Donaldson and the Scottish fashion industry more generally, and thus provides new insight into the impact of the so-called ‘boutique boom’ of the 1960s on Scottish fashion and enterprise culture.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88967142","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

(Un)constructed, Reconstructed and Deconstructed Again. An Examination of the Context, Reconstruction and Display Possibilities of Five Lace Panels for Use on a Gown, c. 1900–1910, at the MoMu Fashion Museum in Antwerp (Un)建构、重建、再解构。安特卫普MoMu时装博物馆，约1900-1910年，一件礼服上的五幅蕾丝面板的背景、重建和展示可能性的研究

IF 0.2 4区社会学

Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2022.0217

Dries Debackere

{"title":"(Un)constructed, Reconstructed and Deconstructed Again. An Examination of the Context, Reconstruction and Display Possibilities of Five Lace Panels for Use on a Gown, c. 1900–1910, at the MoMu Fashion Museum in Antwerp","authors":"Dries Debackere","doi":"10.3366/cost.2022.0217","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2022.0217","url":null,"abstract":"This article studies five shaped panels of Duchesse de Bruxelles lace, part of the collection of the MoMu Fashion Museum in Antwerp. These handmade panels were created c. 1900 but never fashioned into a gown and, consequently, never worn. The first part of this article uses an object-based approach to examine how the panels might have looked if they had been constructed into a gown, what type of gown this would have been, to what occasions it would have been worn and by whom. In 2021, the renovated MoMu reopened with, in addition to its space for temporary exhibitions, a permanent display showing highlights from the museum collection. This unconstructed gown being a highlight of its historical lace collection, the museum is currently considering how to best exhibit it. The second part of this article therefore examines different display possibilities, ranging from a full reconstruction, to a deconstructed display, to the possibility of replication — all the while keeping in mind the ethics of conservation-restoration and display, and what it means to exhibit fashion.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"85877908","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

The Colour of Fashion at the Salon du Goût Français: A Virtual Exhibition of French Luxury Commodities, 1921–1923 沙龙的时尚色彩:法国奢侈品的虚拟展览，1921-1923

IF 0.2 4区社会学

Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2022.0218

Cally Blackman

{"title":"The Colour of Fashion at the Salon du Goût Français: A Virtual Exhibition of French Luxury Commodities, 1921–1923","authors":"Cally Blackman","doi":"10.3366/cost.2022.0218","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2022.0218","url":null,"abstract":"This article investigates the use of the Autochrome, an important photographic process invented by the Lumière brothers that produced the most accurate representation of colour between 1907 and the early 1930s, in a government-backed exhibition of French luxury commodities, the Salon du Goût Français. Between 1921 and 1923 the exhibition showed in Paris and undertook two international tours, first to North America and then to Australasia, China, Vietnam, Japan and India. Thousands of objects were displayed, from automobiles to umbrellas, including couture, ready to wear, lingerie, menswear, children's wear and accessories. By reducing the objects to two dimensions on the glass Autochrome plates, the exhibition could be shown in a relatively small venue in Paris, transported to America in a trunk and voyage on a decommissioned battle cruiser to the Far East. Using the trope of Western fashion as a form of soft power mediated by the global reach afforded by the Autochromes, the article proposes that the Salon du Goût Français offered a kind of roving virtual art gallery, a vividly colourful encyclopaedic display of over 2,000 images of luxury manufacturing deployed to restore France's imperial and cultural hegemony as supreme arbiter of taste after the trauma of the First World War.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"81270796","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1

Dandy Style: 250 Years of British Men's Fashion, ed. by Shaun Cole and Miles Lambert 《花花公子风格:英国男性时尚250年》，肖恩·科尔和迈尔斯·兰伯特主编

IF 0.2 4区社会学

Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2022.0222

D. Sprecher

引用次数: 1

Front matter 前页

IF 0.2 4区社会学

Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2022.0214

引用次数: 0