Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society最新文献

The Decline of Female Mourning Wear: A Case Study Analysis of Frederic Forster's Mourning Warehouse 1849–1923 in Leeds, UK 女性丧服的衰落——以弗雷德里克·福斯特1849-1923年英国利兹的丧服仓库为例

4区社会学

Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2023-09-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2023.0259

Kevin Almond, Judith Simpson

{"title":"The Decline of Female Mourning Wear: A Case Study Analysis of Frederic Forster's Mourning Warehouse 1849–1923 in Leeds, UK","authors":"Kevin Almond, Judith Simpson","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0259","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0259","url":null,"abstract":"This article discusses substantial new research which explored the trade in UK female mourning wear by tracing the history of Frederic Forster’s Mourning Warehouse, situated on Lower Briggate in Leeds 1849–1923. It also interrogated the small collection of Forster items held by Leeds Museums and Galleries (LMG). This helped to develop an understanding of why UK female mourning wear, which dominated the High Street in the late nineteenth century, began to diminish. The research subsequently examined what the Forster items signify to a present-day audience and whether the need for special clothing to denote mourning has decreased or is met by other clothing practices in a globalized world. A review of literature raised several explanations, suggesting that the cultural work done by mourning clothing is no longer required today and the symbolic efficacy of black mourning clothing disappeared as black became increasingly popular in fashionable dress. The study tested these suppositions through an object-based analysis of the items in the LMG collection and a database search of newspaper advertisements from Frederic Forster in the period 1849–1923. The research activities were filmed to synthesize the insights and the film was discussed with a selection of interview participants to explore significant new knowledge and understanding about the decline of the UK female mourning dress trade.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135736100","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Africa Fashion, ed. by Christine Checinska 《非洲时尚》，Christine Checinska主编

4区社会学

Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2023-09-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2023.0279

Ken Kweku Nimo

引用次数: 0

Susan North, Sweet & Clean? Bodies and Clothes in Early Modern England 苏珊·诺斯，Sweet &;干净吗?近代早期英格兰的身体与服饰

4区社会学

Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2023-09-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2023.0267

Sarah A. Bendall

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The Costume Society Grants and Awards 2023 服装协会补助金和奖项2023

4区社会学

Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2023-09-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2023.0280

引用次数: 0

Andrew Bolton et al., In America: A Lexicon of Fashion; Fashioning America: Grit to Glamour, ed. by Michelle Tolini Finamore 安德鲁·博尔顿等人著，《在美国:时尚词典》;《塑造美国:从勇气到魅力》，米歇尔·托利尼·费纳莫尔主编

4区社会学

Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2023-09-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2023.0278

Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell

引用次数: 0

Front matter 前页

4区社会学

Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2023-09-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2023.0260

引用次数: 0

Rosie Waine, Highland Style: Fashioning Highland Dress c. 1745–1845 罗西·韦恩，高地风格:1745-1845年的高地服饰

4区社会学

Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2023-09-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2023.0270

Rebecca Quinton

引用次数: 0

Anna Jackson, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk 安娜·杰克逊，和服:从京都到t台

4区社会学

Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2023-09-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2023.0269

Arisa Yamaguchi

引用次数: 0

Michelle Jones, London Couture and the Making of a Fashion Centre 米歇尔·琼斯，《伦敦时装与时尚中心的建立》

4区社会学

Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2023-09-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2023.0276

Beatrice Behlen

引用次数: 0

Embroidered Hierarchies: French Civil Uniforms and the décret du 29 messidor in Napoleonic Paris and Milan 刺绣等级:法国民事制服和拿破仑时期巴黎和米兰的29号信使

4区社会学

Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2023-09-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2023.0263

Brontë Hebdon

{"title":"Embroidered Hierarchies: French Civil Uniforms and the <i>décret du 29 messidor</i> in Napoleonic Paris and Milan","authors":"Brontë Hebdon","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0263","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0263","url":null,"abstract":"In the days following Napoleon Bonaparte's nomination as Emperor of the French in May 1804, two decrees were introduced to French society: the décret du 24 messidor an XII and the décret du 29 messidor an XII. The first organized the French court into a hierarchy of privilege, placing Napoleon and his closest friends and advisors at the top of a complex pyramid of social capital. The second decree reoriented the court away from the sartorial egalitarianism of the French Revolution by legislating court costumes of varying colours and embroidery designs to correspond with each newly created governmental and courtly rank. Many histories of this period connect Napoleon's court costumes to his desire to strengthen the French silk industry, but less is understood about how Napoleon used these court costumes at his courts outside of France as organizational and imperialistic tools of social control. This article will consider how the décret du 24 messidor and the décret du 29 messidor were implemented in Paris and in the Kingdom of Italy in Milan in 1805, revealing that even as Napoleon's government attempted to structure French courtly society through codes of sartorial display, personal expression for men was still possible, especially through embroidery.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135735430","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0