{"title":"Embroidered Hierarchies: French Civil Uniforms and the <i>décret du 29 messidor</i> in Napoleonic Paris and Milan","authors":"Brontë Hebdon","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0263","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0263","url":null,"abstract":"In the days following Napoleon Bonaparte's nomination as Emperor of the French in May 1804, two decrees were introduced to French society: the décret du 24 messidor an XII and the décret du 29 messidor an XII. The first organized the French court into a hierarchy of privilege, placing Napoleon and his closest friends and advisors at the top of a complex pyramid of social capital. The second decree reoriented the court away from the sartorial egalitarianism of the French Revolution by legislating court costumes of varying colours and embroidery designs to correspond with each newly created governmental and courtly rank. Many histories of this period connect Napoleon's court costumes to his desire to strengthen the French silk industry, but less is understood about how Napoleon used these court costumes at his courts outside of France as organizational and imperialistic tools of social control. This article will consider how the décret du 24 messidor and the décret du 29 messidor were implemented in Paris and in the Kingdom of Italy in Milan in 1805, revealing that even as Napoleon's government attempted to structure French courtly society through codes of sartorial display, personal expression for men was still possible, especially through embroidery.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135735430","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Cheryl Roberts, <i>Consuming Mass Fashion in 1930s England: Design, Manufacture and Retailing for Young Working-Class Women</i>","authors":"Christine Boydell","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0275","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0275","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135735432","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Isabella Campagnol, <i>Style from the Nile: Egyptomania in Fashion from the 19th Century to the Present Day</i>","authors":"Daniel Milford-Cottam","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0272","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0272","url":null,"abstract":"\"Isabella Campagnol, Style from the Nile: Egyptomania in Fashion from the 19th Century to the Present Day.\" Costume, 57(2), pp. 263–264","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135735431","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"New and Recent Books","authors":"Anna Buruma","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0265","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0265","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135736267","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Janet Arnold, <i>Patterns of Fashion 1: The Content, Cut, Construction and Context of Englishwomen's Dress c.1720–1860</i>; Janet Arnold, <i>Patterns of Fashion 2: The Content, Cut, Construction and Context of Englishwomen's Dress c.1860–1940</i>; Janet Arnold, <i>Patterns of Fashion 6: The Content, Cut, Construction and Context of Englishwomen's Dress c.1695–1795</i>","authors":"David Wilcox","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0268","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0268","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135736279","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"<i>Lecoanet Hemant</i>, ed. by Sylvie Marot","authors":"Aude Le Guennec","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0277","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0277","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135736268","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Hilary Davidson, <i>Dress in the Age of Jane Austen: Regency Fashion</i>","authors":"Michele Majer","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0271","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0271","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135736273","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Alison Toplis, <i>The Hidden History of the Smock</i>","authors":"Althea Mackenzie","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0273","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0273","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135736271","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Hahn Eura EunKyung and HaYoung Joo, <i>European Fans: The Untold Story</i>","authors":"Scott Schiavone","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0266","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0266","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135736283","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"<i>‘El Ajuar de Ana de Austria, Infanta de Espana, Reina de Francia’</i>: An Introduction to Anne of Austria's Trousseau","authors":"Suzanne Lussier","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0262","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0262","url":null,"abstract":"In October 1615, the fourteen-year-old Infanta Anne of Austria began a journey that brought her from her native Spain to the court of France where she would become the wife of the French King Louis XIII and later the mother of Louis XIV, the Sun King. According to royal tradition, Anne's father, King Philip III of Spain, bestowed her with a wedding trousseau which included magnificent garments, jewellery, furniture, silverware and perfumes. The transcription of the trousseau was published in Spanish in 1949 and translated into English by this author. This article looks at the gowns, accessories, and linens listed in the royal inventory and refers to portraits of the young princess and other members of the Spanish Royal family. It examines an understudied archival source and contributes to the existing studies of dress as a marker of royal identity and as a tool in the political alliances through royal marriages.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135736258","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}