{"title":"(Un)建构、重建、再解构。安特卫普MoMu时装博物馆,约1900-1910年,一件礼服上的五幅蕾丝面板的背景、重建和展示可能性的研究","authors":"Dries Debackere","doi":"10.3366/cost.2022.0217","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"This article studies five shaped panels of Duchesse de Bruxelles lace, part of the collection of the MoMu Fashion Museum in Antwerp. These handmade panels were created c. 1900 but never fashioned into a gown and, consequently, never worn. The first part of this article uses an object-based approach to examine how the panels might have looked if they had been constructed into a gown, what type of gown this would have been, to what occasions it would have been worn and by whom. In 2021, the renovated MoMu reopened with, in addition to its space for temporary exhibitions, a permanent display showing highlights from the museum collection. This unconstructed gown being a highlight of its historical lace collection, the museum is currently considering how to best exhibit it. The second part of this article therefore examines different display possibilities, ranging from a full reconstruction, to a deconstructed display, to the possibility of replication — all the while keeping in mind the ethics of conservation-restoration and display, and what it means to exhibit fashion.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2000,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"(Un)constructed, Reconstructed and Deconstructed Again. An Examination of the Context, Reconstruction and Display Possibilities of Five Lace Panels for Use on a Gown, c. 1900–1910, at the MoMu Fashion Museum in Antwerp\",\"authors\":\"Dries Debackere\",\"doi\":\"10.3366/cost.2022.0217\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"This article studies five shaped panels of Duchesse de Bruxelles lace, part of the collection of the MoMu Fashion Museum in Antwerp. These handmade panels were created c. 1900 but never fashioned into a gown and, consequently, never worn. The first part of this article uses an object-based approach to examine how the panels might have looked if they had been constructed into a gown, what type of gown this would have been, to what occasions it would have been worn and by whom. In 2021, the renovated MoMu reopened with, in addition to its space for temporary exhibitions, a permanent display showing highlights from the museum collection. This unconstructed gown being a highlight of its historical lace collection, the museum is currently considering how to best exhibit it. The second part of this article therefore examines different display possibilities, ranging from a full reconstruction, to a deconstructed display, to the possibility of replication — all the while keeping in mind the ethics of conservation-restoration and display, and what it means to exhibit fashion.\",\"PeriodicalId\":51969,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society\",\"volume\":null,\"pages\":null},\"PeriodicalIF\":0.2000,\"publicationDate\":\"2022-03-01\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"1085\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2022.0217\",\"RegionNum\":4,\"RegionCategory\":\"社会学\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"0\",\"JCRName\":\"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2022.0217","RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"0","JCRName":"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
摘要
本文研究了比利时安特卫普MoMu时尚博物馆收藏的五件Duchesse de Bruxelles蕾丝造型面板。这些手工制作的镶板是在1900年左右制作的,但从来没有做成长袍,因此也从来没有穿过。本文的第一部分使用基于对象的方法来检查面板如果被制成长袍可能会是什么样子,这将是什么类型的长袍,在什么场合会被穿着以及由谁穿着。2021年,经过翻修的MoMu重新开放,除了临时展览空间外,还有一个永久性的展览空间,展示了博物馆藏品的精华。这件未制作的礼服是其历史蕾丝收藏的亮点,博物馆目前正在考虑如何最好地展示它。因此,本文的第二部分考察了不同的展示可能性,从完整的重建,到解构的展示,再到复制的可能性——所有这些都要牢记保护修复和展示的伦理,以及展示时尚的意义。
(Un)constructed, Reconstructed and Deconstructed Again. An Examination of the Context, Reconstruction and Display Possibilities of Five Lace Panels for Use on a Gown, c. 1900–1910, at the MoMu Fashion Museum in Antwerp
This article studies five shaped panels of Duchesse de Bruxelles lace, part of the collection of the MoMu Fashion Museum in Antwerp. These handmade panels were created c. 1900 but never fashioned into a gown and, consequently, never worn. The first part of this article uses an object-based approach to examine how the panels might have looked if they had been constructed into a gown, what type of gown this would have been, to what occasions it would have been worn and by whom. In 2021, the renovated MoMu reopened with, in addition to its space for temporary exhibitions, a permanent display showing highlights from the museum collection. This unconstructed gown being a highlight of its historical lace collection, the museum is currently considering how to best exhibit it. The second part of this article therefore examines different display possibilities, ranging from a full reconstruction, to a deconstructed display, to the possibility of replication — all the while keeping in mind the ethics of conservation-restoration and display, and what it means to exhibit fashion.
期刊介绍:
Costume is the journal of the Costume Society. It is a scholarly, refereed, academic publication presenting current research into historic and contemporary dress. The journal publishes articles primarily object-based, from a broad chronological period and with a worldwide remit. Costume maintains a balance between practice and theory and concentrates on the social significance of dress. Articles are welcomed from established researchers and those new to the field. The articles published in Costume are sent out for peer-review to ensure that they are of a high standard and make a contribution to dress history.